>. 


•^^- 


'"fik  T 


4 


/ 


DYER'S  COMPANION. 

IN  TWO  PARTS. 


PARf  FIRST,   CONTAI^riNG 

A    GENERAL    PLAN    OF    DYING 
IrOOI.   AND  WOOLLEN,   COT  TON  AND   LINEN   CLOTlJS, 

YARN  AND  THREAD. 

ALSO,   DIRECTIONS  FOR 

MILLING    AND    FINISHING, 
'STAMPING  AND  BLEACHING  CLOTHS. 


PART   SECOND,   C031TAINS 

MANY  USEFUL  RECEIPTS 
0^^  DYING,  STAINING,  PAINTING,  &c. 


BY  ELIJAH  BEMISS, 


^COND  EDITION,  ENLARGED  AND  IMPROVED. 


NEW-YORK  : 
PUBLISHED  BY  EVERT  DUYCKINCK; 

102  PEARL-STREET. 

58  15, 


IHsirict  of  JKe:p-Yovlcj  ss. 

BE  IT  REMEMBEilED,  Thai;  on  \.he  fifteenth  day  of  De- 
cember,  in  the  thirty-niiith  year  of  the  Independence  of  iLe  United 
States  of  Anjei'ica,  'Evert  Duyckinck,  of  the  said  district,  hath  de- 
posited in  tiiis  office  the  title  of  a  book,  the  right  whereof  he  claims 
as  proprietor  in  the  words  following,  to  wit : 

"  The  Dyer's  Con^.panion.  In  two  parts.  Part  first,  containing  a 
General  plan  of  dying  Wool  and  \\  oollen^  Cotton  and  Lii»en  Cloths, 
Yarn  and  Thread.  Also,  directions  for  iSIilling  and  Finishing, 
Stamping  and  Bleaching  Cloths.  Part  Second,  contains  ntiany  use- 
ful receipts  on  Dying,  Staining,  Painting,  &c.  By  Elijah  Bemis?. 
Second  Edition,  enlaiged  and  improved." 

In  conformity  to  the  act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  en- 
titled, **  An  act  for  the  encouragement  oi  learning,  by  securing  tlie 
,C0Y)ies  of  maps,  charts,  and  books,  to  the  antliors  and  proprietors  of 
such  copies,  during  the  times  therein  mentioned."  And  also  to  an 
act,  entitled,  "  An  act,  sii]>])lementJiry  to  an  act,  entitled,  An  act  for 
the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps, 
charts,  and  book i,  to  the  antliors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  dur- 
ing the  times  tlierein  mentioned^  and  extending  the  benefits  thereof  to 
the  arts  of  desigmnir,  engraving,  acd  etching  historical  and  other 
Tirints." 

TIIERON  RUDD, 
CVr/^  of  the  Southe7'7i  District  of  Mn'-Yorkr 


GKORGE    LOXG,    PRII'fTEK, 


I  IN  D  E  :?i  Jatnn^ 


PART  FIRST. 


Page. 
To  set  aBlae  Vat  of  12  Barrels,  5 
Vut  anrl  Utensils  for  Dying, 
To  nt  Cloths  tor  D\i no;, .  .  .  7 
Other  meiliods  for  Blue,  .  9, 10 
i>ireciioiis    to  be   observed  in 

common  Colouring,  .  .  .11 
To  cie^n  a  Copper,  ....  12 
A  General  Rule,     ....       ibio 


London  Brown,  .  . 
G  For  Redfiish  Brown, 
For  Spanish  Brown, 
For  London  Smoke, 
Cinnamon  Brown, 
For  Smoke  Brown, 
For  Liver  Brown, 
For  Olive  Brown, 


For  Blue, ibid  i For  Liij^lit  SnufT  Bro^vn, 


For  Xavy  Blae, 13 

Prussian  Bluc.--Compound  or 

Chymick, 14 

Another    method  for  Blueing  ^ 

or  Compound, ibid 

Pinissiau  Blue, 15 

For- Green,     ....      15,  16,  17  For  Li;,rlit  Brow 
Fo^'  Boule  Green, 18  For  Ash  B  own, 


Page 
.  5G 
.  ibid 
.    .3r 

.  ss 

.  ibid 
.  ibtd 
.     SD 
39,  40 
.    .    4i> 
.    .     41 
41,  42,  4o 


For  Dark  Snuff  Brown, 

For  Snuff  Brown, 

For  Bat-wine:  Brown,      .    .  .    43 

For  Sia(e  Brown, 44 

For  Dove  or  Lead  Brown,  .  ibid 

Fo)'  Pc^arl  or  Silver  Grev,   •  •    ^ 

-      '          "                     ■  ibid 

46 


For  Olive  Green, 19  For  Drjd)  Brown, 

For  Y.l!()w,   ....     19,  ^20,  2'  ^     ^    ^ 


Bwif  Yellow, 21 

To   take    the    Colour   out    of 

Cloth, 21,22 

Scarlet  Rf-d, 22,  23 

Crin^OH  Re«l, 24 

For    Red    with  Redwood    or 

Nicaragua,       ......     25 

CrimsoH   Rvd  with  Redwood,  ibid 
For  Red  with  ^ladrler,   .     .     .     ~" 
For  Morroon  Red.      .         .     . 

Polished  Red  with  Madder,    . 
Fo!'  Portable  Red,      ^    .     .     . 

For  Claret  Red, 

For  Claret,  

For  Madder  Red  to  be  dyed  a 

Clnre:,         

For  Scarlet  to  be  dyed  Claret 

or  any  dark  Colour, 


„.  _ ,  .     .     .    .       ibid 

'For  Drab,       ......  46,47 

For  Forest  Cloth, 47 

For  Liver  Drab, 48 

For  Xi5;ht  Liver  Drab,  .  .  .ibid 
For  a  Madder  Drab, ....  ibid 
For  a  Green  Drab,  ....  49 
For  a  Redd  is!)  Drab,  ....  ibid 

For  Light  Drab, 50 

For  Yellow  Drab, ibid 

For  a  Dark  Wllow  Drab,    .     .  ibid 

27j  For  a  Forest  Brown,  .     .     .     .ibid 

ibid  For  a  D^^rk  Forest  Brown,      .     51 

2SiFor  Paris  Mdd, ibid 

For  a  Raven  Colour,  .  .  .  .ibid 
For  Crow  with  Copperas,  .  .  52^ 
For  Crow  with   Blueing  Com- 

]>ounfl-, ibiti 

For  Crow  M'ith  Blue  Vitriol,  .     53 


20 


ibid 
ibid 


30 


For  Black,  .  .  .  5.-,  54,  55, 56 
For  Cherry  Colour,  ....  ibid  Blue,  on  Cotton  and  Linen,  .  57 
Fo'- A'iolet  Colours,     ....     SliBlue,  ondo —  "old,     ....     58 

For  Pink  ColnU!-, ibid; 'Mue,  on  <lo. — Wot,      .     .     .     .ibid 

For  Flcsli  Colour,       ....     32jTo  take  Ute  ('olour  out  of  Silk, 
For  Orange  Colour,    ....  ibidj     Cotton  and  Liuen. — ^Tiot, 

For  Brown, 33jFor  Green  on  Silk.— Hot, 

For  Loudon  Brown,  or  Cor-         iGreen,  on  Cotton  and  Lineri.» — 

beau  with  C ana  wood,  .     .     .  ibid  I     Hot, 

For  London   Brown,   or  Cor-  Y* How,  on  do.— -Hot,    .... 

be-nj  with  Nicaragua,  ...     35  Orange  ^ 'olour,  on  do.* — Hot,. 
London     Brown,   or   Coibeau  Flesh  Colour,  on  do. — Hot, 

Trills  Redwood,    .....  ibidlRed,  cu  do.--Cold,     .... 


50 
ibid 

60 
ibid 
ibid 
ibid 

CI 


INDEX. 


Heddish   Brown,   on   Cotton 

and  Linen. — Hot,  .     .     . 
yiuinb     olour  or    Purple,  oi 

Silks. — ilol, .... 
JPurpIfc,  on  Colton  or  Lin  en. — 

Coi;, 

Brown,  on  do. — Cold,    . 
f)ove  or  Lend  Coioup,  on  do. 

Cold, 

Olive,  »m  do. — Cold, .    .     . 
©live,  on  Silk,  Cotton  or  Lin 

en. — Hot, 

Light  Olive,  on  Cotton    and 

Linen. — Hot,      .... 
ShUj  Colon. ,  on  »lo. — Hot, 
ill  .ck  on  da — Hot, ... 
Black,  on  do. — Cold,     .    .    , 
ii^eneial  observations,     .     . 
Direclions  for  dressing  Cloth 
For  Fulling  Cloths,  .     . 
Por  tlM!i  Cloths,    .     .     . 
7'o  dress  Silk  and  Cotlon,  he, 
Observatioii.s  on  Colours  and 
Dyr-StufTs,     .     . 
Prussian  Bhie,  .    . 
— — jj')r'?e  Green,    .    . 
— — Yeiiiiw,      .... 
Scarlet  Red, .    ,     . 
■  'rim son,  .... 

—Madder  Red,    .     . 

Polished  Rc<l,    .     . 

Orange  Colour, 
Cherry  Colour, 

Violet  Colours,  .    , 

Pink  Colours,    .    . 

Flesh  Colour,    .     . 
Brown,      .... 
— Corheau  with  Camwoo<], 
— Corheau  with  Nicaragua, 
—Corheau  with  Redwood, 
—•London  Smoke, 
—Cinnamon  Brown, 

Olive  Brown,      .    . 

SnufF  Brown,    .     . 

—Bat-win?,  Slate,  Dore,  or 
Lead,  Pearl   or  Silv 
Grey  and  Drab,  .     . 

^Raven, 

—Crow,  with  Coj)peras, 
—(J  row,  with  Compound  of 

Blueing,      .... 
.—"row,  wtli  Blue  Vitriol 

Black, 

«— Colouring  Silk,  .    .    .     , 

—Dying Cotton  and  Linen, 

,«— Jic   ;'     SHut  situation    of 

the  Dyer's  Business,   . 


Observations  on  Mantifactur- 

61      ingLioth, 90 

APPENDIX. 

Introduction, 91 

BiueDymg, IQ5 

Preparing  goods  for  Blue,  and 
an  explanation  of  the  Dye- 
Stuffs,    10$ 

Pit  i>aration  of  Lime,    ...  133 

—of  Sour  Liquors,    ,    .     .  ibid 
To  set  a  Vat  of  *24  Barrels,  as 

practised  in  Ameiica,     .     .  134 
To  know  when  a   Dye    has 

coiiie  to  work, 135 

rUt  VVoad  or  Pastel  Vat,     .  139 
Another  method  for  Blue,  as 

practised  in  America,     .     .  148 
Of  Setting  and  working  a  A' at 
as   practised   at    Paris     in 

France, .15^ 

The  Cold  Vat  with  Urine,     .  154 

''ot  Vat  with  Urine,     .    .     -  155 
R-4i eating   of  the   Vat  with 

Urine, :    .    .  158 

Bl'ie  Vat  with  Garden- Woad 

or  Pastel-Woad,  ....  160 
The  Vat  stt  to  work,  .  .  .  ibid 
To  set  a  Field  Woad  Vat,  .  163 
Tiie  Manufacturing  of  Pastel 
or  Garden-Woad  as  prac- 
tised in  Fraiice,  ....  166 
Powder  of  Woad,  ....  169 
Of  makmg  Indigoin  America,  171 
On  Yellow  Dying,     ....  173 

Of  Weld, 17r 

Of  Turmeric, 179 

Of  Fustic, 180 

OfRoMcou, 182 

Of  tlie  Grains  of  Avignon,    .  183 

Of  Red, 184 

Of  Flame-Coloured  Scarlet,  .  186 
For  Scarlet   as   practised    iu 

America, 188 

Composition  for  Scarlet,    .     .  ibid 
To  prepare  or  Granulate  the 

I     Tin, ISg 

ibid  Of  Scarlet  of  Grain,     ;    .    .  190 

85 !  Prepa?'ation  of  the  Wool  for 

ibid'     Scarlet  of  Grain,  ....  191 

Liquor  for  the  Kermes,    .     .  1D2 
86  Flame-Coloured     Scarlet    as 
ih  (i      practised  at  Leeds  and  in 

ib('      France, COO 

S^  Water  for  the  preparation  of 

ihli      Scarlet, 202 

Reddening, 203^ 

8G  Scarlet  of  Gum-Laccjue,  .    .  216^ 


ibid 

62 
ibid 

63 
64 

ibid 

65 
ibiu 
ibi(i 

66 

6: 

68 
ibid 

70 
ibid 

71 


ibif.' 

7S 
ibic 

79 
ibid 
ibid 
ibi-' 

80 
ibid 

81 
ibid 

82 

83 
ibid 

84 


INDEX- 


Page. 

.    220 

229 

.    232 

'34 


ibid 


Of  the  Red  of  Madder, 

For  Crimson, 

For  Lauguedoc  Crimson,  .  . 
The  uaturalCrimson  in  Grain, 
Scarlet,  of  the  Dying  of  Flock 

or  Goat's  Hair,      .... 
The  Theory  of  the  Dissolu- 
tion of  Flock, 240 

Scarlet   of  Archil,   and    the 

manner  of  using  it,  .  .  •  2i3 
Bastard  Scarlet  by  Archil,  .  246 
Ite6  of  Brazil  or  Redwood,  .    247 

Of  Brown, 252 

Of  Black, 253 

For  Black, 254 

Another  method  for  Black,    .    255 
On  the  Mixture  of  Colours,  . 
On  Mixing  Colours  three  by 

three, 

Of  Purple, 260 

Of  Orange, ibid 

Of  the  Mixture  of  Colours 

three  by  three 

For  Fawn  Colour  and  Silver 

Grev, 

For  SiTvcr  Grey, 

For  Tobacco  or  Snuff  Colour, 
Of  Colours  which  will  endure 

Milling, ibid 


259 
ibid 


ibid 

2G1 
ibid 
262 


Page. 

Remarks  on  Indigo,      .    ,    .  262 

Of  Camwood, 263 

Of  Cochiiseal, ibid 

Of  Brazil  or  R4?dwood,     .     .  ibid 

Of  Nicaragua  Wcod,    .    .    .  ibid 

OfBarwood, 264 

Chymical  History    of  Saun- 
ders,       ibid 

Of  Yellow  Woods  and  Drugs,  ibid 

Of  Fustic, 265 

Of  Logwood  as  a  Colouring 

Drug, ibid 

OfBarks  in  General,    ...  267 
To  preserve  Dye-Stuffs  from 

Injury, 268 

The  Cultivation  of  Teasles,  .  ibid 

Of  Sorting  Wool,      ....  269 
Of  Scouring  or  Washing  of 

Wool, 271 

Of  Manufacturing  Cloth,  .    .  272 
Of  Mining  Cloth,      ....  ibid 
Another  method  for  Scour- 
ing,    273 

Of  Finishing  Cloth,  ....  274 
Of  Suli)huring  and    Whiten- 
ing Woollen  Cloth,     ...  275 
To  know  when  Cloth  has  been 
well   Milled,  Finished  and 
Dyed, 


FART  SECOND. 


To  Jack  or  harden  Leather, 
for  Horseman's  Caps,  Hol- 
sters, &c 279 

To  make  Varnish  for  Leather,    ibid 

To  make  Liquid  Blacking  for 
Boots  and  Shoes,  ....    ibid 

To  prepare  Feathers,  Fur, 
and  Hair,  to  receive  Red, 
Yellow  or  Green,  ....     ibid 

To  Colour  Fenthers,  Fur,  kc^ 
Red, 280 

To  Dye  Brussels  Red,  .     .     .    ibid 

To  Colour  Fey  (hers.  Fur, 
Iljxir,  and  Woollen  or  Silk, 
Blue  of  any  shade,     .     .     .    ibid 

For  Blue  on  Btussels,  .     .     .     ibid 

To  Colour  Feathers,  &c.  Yel- 
low and  Green,      ....    281 

For  Gr^en  on  Brussels  and 
Feathers, ibid 

For  Light  Green  on  Woollen,    ibid 

To  Colour  Hats  Green  on 
the  under  side, ibid 

To  Colour  Feuthers,  he. 
Blacky ^    .    ,    iUidj 


To  L^kcr  Brass   and  Tin- 
Wure, 

To  jsoften  Steel — for  engrav- 
'"g»  &c 

To  make  Oil-Cloth  for  Hats, 
Umbrellas,  he 

To  make  Oil -Cloth  for  Car- 
pets,      

The  Chinese  method  for  ren- 
dering Cloth  M'Hter-proof,  . 

To  boil  Oil  for  Pointing,    .     . 

To  make  Stone  Colour,    .    . 

To  make  Pearl  Colour,     .    . 

To  make  deep  Blue,     .    .     . 

To  make  Sea  Green,    .    .    . 

Verdigrease  Green,  .... 

Orange  Ccjlour  for  Carpets,    . 

To  Sli^ck  Verdignase,  .    .     . 

To  I.  ake  ^  ermillion,    .     .     . 

Of    Rosr     Lake,    commonly 
called  Rose  Pink,  .... 

For  Prussian  Blue,  .... 

To  lay  Gold  Leaf  on  Carved 
or  Monlf'iiv  Work, 

Paiating  witli  Milk,  .    ♦    .    , 


276 

282 

ibid 

ibid 

ibid 

ibid 
ibid 
ibid 
283 
ibid 
ibid 
ibid 
ibid 
ibid 
ibid 

284 
ibid 

285" 
2S6 


tNDEY. 


i 

riesmoTis  Milk  Pair.t,    .    .    . 
To  Staiu  Cherry  a  Mahogany 

Colour, 

To    make    Cfieny-woml  the 

Colour  (U'  Mahojfaay,  .  . 
Vor  a  dark  Mihoi^auv  Colour, 
To  Stain   Wii'te  Wood  Ma- 

hogarvj  Col4)'ir,  .... 
To  Stain   any  kind  of  White 

Wood    a     Dark    lla],    of 

Light  Mahog;iiny  Colour,  . 
To  make    a  Cht  ny   Rod  on 

Wliite  Wood  of  ai^y  kind. 
Red  Stain  for  Wood,  .  .  . 
To  make  (ireeii  oa  any  kind 

of  Wiiite  Wood,    .... 

To  Stain  Givcii, 

To  Stain  a  Light  O  aage  Co- 

loiu', . 

To  Slain  WoojI  Black,     .    . 
Varnish-    for    Wood     either 

Stained  or  Painted,   .    .     . 
Varnislk,  ....... 

To  mnkt*    Ambar   or  Copul 

Varftish, 

A  Polish  for  Mah'igany  Fai^ 

tiiture, 

To  prepare  Glue  t'>r  Use,    . 
To  make  Rl;»<;k  I'lk  Powder, 
To  juake  Black  luk,     .     .     . 
For  Ret  I  Ink,  8cc.      .    .•    ,    . 
Cure  for  the  Dropsy,     .     $90, 
Cure  for  Cance:s, .  '  .    .     ^1 . 
Ciire  for  the  Vfydrophobia,  C9.3, 
Cu  e  for  the  Dysentery,      29^ 
Por   the  Dvsen'tary  and  Cho- 

ler.'*,  or  Vomituig,  .  .  . 
Cure  for  St.  Anthony's  Fire, 
Recipe  for  a  Consumption,  . 
Core  for  the  Heart  Burn, .    . 

Cure  for  the  Stoae 

Indiaii  method  of  Curing  Spit- 

tino;  of  Blood 

A  Receipt  forRitters,  to  pre- 
vent the  Fever  and  Agife, 

and  all  other  fall  fevers, 

Cure-fon     orns, 

To  make  anRh^ctric  Vlaehine, 
To  Cure  Children  in  the  worst 

stagfe  of  r»to\ication,      .    . 

Cwre  for  the  A.u:u^ 

Cure  for  Almonds  of  the  Ears 

fallen    loun, 

A  care  tor  Frost  Bitten  Feet, 


at^e. 


Fa«e. 
ibid 
ibid 


Cure  for  the  Asthm.i,   .    .    . 

A  ceiHatn  Ckne  for  the  Itch,  . 
ibid  Cure  for  the  Sah  Rheum,    . 

Cure  for  tlie  Rheumatism,     . 
ibiil  Good  Cider  as  easily  made  as 

ibiii      bad,      .     .     .     .  \    .    .     ,  ibid 

For  inakinp;  Apple  Brandy,   .  ibid 

ibid  To  )iiakc  American  Wine,     .  300 

Cum  ant  W'ine, ibid 

A*  tiflcial  Claret, 301 

286; Gooseberry  Wine,    ....  ibid 

j  ltagi>bcrrr  Wine, ibid 

ibkli Damson  W^iPie,      .....  ibid 

ibid:Wi!»e  of  Grape^^ ibid 

Wine    6f     Strawberries    ot 

ibid!     R;;spberries, ibid 

ibidj  A  sh<r»'t  way  for'  herry  Wine,  302 

I  Black  Cherry  Wine,    .    .     .  ibid 

ibid  Meau, .     .    ."    .    .    .•  .    .    .  ibid 

ibid  Beer  without  Malt,  .    .     .    .  ibid 

'.Good  common  Beer,    .    .     .  ibid 
ibid  For  preserving  Apples  thro' 

-89^    t!»e  Winter, 

To  F^ickle  Cu  cumbers — green,  ibid 

ibi<!  To  Pickle  French  Beans,      .  ibid 

JT.  Pickle  Walnuts,  .     .     .     .  503 

jbM  To  Pickle  Mushrooms,      .     .  ibid 

ibidJLetnon  andOran}^*  Peel,  .     .  ibid 

ibitl!  To  ])reserve  Fruit  Green,    .  ibid 

290; Raspberries,       .     .     . 

ibidj— T^irberries,    .... 


ibid 


bid 
ibid 


urrants, 304 


-Walnuts,  green. 


ibid 


ibid 
ibid 
ibkl 
ibid 


9iL 
29^2'- 

•294' (nien  ies,  7    .     i     .     .     .     ibid 

295 !  To  Candy  Cherries, .    .     .     .    ibid 

i To  Candv    Pears,    Plumbs, 

295 1     AptNcots,  &c 

ibid! Of  Jellies,  • 

ib'd:  To  make  Butter,  .... 
296, To  nreserve  Fggs,  .... 
ibidiTo  Cure  Hams, 305 

;To  Destrov  Buijs, Flies,  Ants, 
297i     K-c.  on  tender  plants,      .     .    ibid 

JTo  kill  Lice  on  Cattle,  .     .     .     306 

I  To  rid  Houses  of  Bujrs,    .     .     ibid 
ibid  To  preserve  Wheat  and  Kye 
ibid"     from  the  Weavil,  ....     ibid 
ibid, To  preserve I'ldianCorn  fix)ra 

j     Binls, ibid 

2QR  For  Inoeulatinjr  Fi'uit  Trees,     ibid 
ibid; To  take  a  Film  off  a  Horse's 

!    Fve,    .......    r;or 

ilH'lV  C!r.>  for  Sheep  BithijT,       .     ibid 
ibid  'To  find  due  Norti  and  Soatb,    ibid 


PREFACE. 


THE  design  of  *'  The  Dyer s  Companion^'^ 
is  to  furnish  an  easy  and  uniform  system  of  dy- 
ing for  the  use  of  pr>ciitioners,  and  those  who 
wish  to  be  benefitted  by  that  and  other  arts  in- 
troduced in  this  work.  During  an  employment 
of  several  years  m  the  clothier's  business,  1  had 
to  combat  with  m^my  difFiculiies  for  the  Avant  of 
an  assistant  of  this  kind:  and  I  am  well  per- 
suaded  the  greater  part  of  my  fellow-functioners 
have  laboured  under  the  same  embarrass- 
ments, as  there  has  not  been  to  my  know- 
ledge,  any  book  of  this  nature  ever  before  pub- 
lished in  the  United  States — a  work  which  I 
humbly  conceive  will  not  only  be  serviceable  to 
the  practitioners,  but  to  the  country  at  large. 

The  author's  attempt  to  improve  the  useful 
arts,  and  to  promote  manufactures,  he  hopes 
will  meet  the  approbation  and  encouragement 
of  his  fellow-citizens  ;  and  that  the  plainness  of 
his  plan,  will  be  excused,  as  he  is  an  unlettered 
country  dyer.  His  long  practise  in  dying  and 
dressing  cloth,  &c.  has  given  him  great  oppor- 
tunity for  making  improvements  therein.  These 
arts  admit  of  still  greater  improvement,  if  proper 
attention  is  paid  to  recordin.g  and  securing  our 
discoveries;  but  otherwise  it  must  be  expected 
that  they  will  remain  with  us  in  a  state  of  in- 
fancy. 

The  art  of  dying  is  still  far  from  having  arriv- 
ed at  a  state  of  perfection  even  in  Europe,  and 
probably  will  not  in  our  age.  This  coit^idera- 
tion  ought  not  to  discourage  us,  but  to  increase 
our  ambition  ;  for  it  must  be  acknowkdged 
that  ptreat  improvem.ents  have  been  made  and 
are  still  making  in  this  countrj . 

Those  to  whom  the  author  is  in  the  small- 
est degree  indebted  for  promoting  the  usefulness 
of  this  work,  will  please  to  accept  his  thanks  ; 
their  future  favors  are  requested,  with  a  hope 
Ihat  we  may  continue  to  live  in  brotherly  loyCo 


viii  PREFACE. 

By  contributing  our  mutual  aid  towards  gain'- 
ing  and  supporting  our  independence  of  Great- 
Britain,  and  other  foreign  countries,  to  whom  in 
arts  and  manufactures  we  have  too  long  bowed 
the  knee ;  we  shall  promote  our  own  interests 
and  our  country's  welfare  and  glory. 

In  the  First  Part  it  is  attempted  to  have  the 
Receipts  for  dying  woollen,  silk,  cotton  and  linen 
goods,  arranged  in  the  best  order  ;  which  isfol- 
lowed  by  directions  for  the  management  of  co- 
louring, &c.  The  different  operations  of  dye- 
stuff  are  then  attempted  to  be  shewn,  together 
with  directions  for  dressing  cloth  ;  closing  with 
some  observations  on  the  present  situation  of 
our  business. 

The  Second  Part  contains  several  useful  arts 
and  discoveries,  collected  from  various  sourc- 
es, which  will  be  found  to  be  extremely  bene- 
ficial to  the  public  in  general. 

The  author  having  for  several  years  practised 
in  the  greatest  part  of  the  arts  inserted  in  this 
work,  pledges  himself  for  the  truth  of  his  asser. 
lions.  He  has  endeavoured  to  use  the  plainest 
language,  and  to  point  out  every  part  of  the  pro- 
cesses, so  that  no  one  should  be  disappointed 
who  attempts  to  follow  his  directions. 

Many  master  mechanicks  refuse  to  give  re- 
ceipts  to  their  apprentices  unless  they  will  pay 
for  them,  and  at  a  high  price.  There  are  many 
receipts  in  this  book,  v/hich,  to  the  personal 
knoA'ledge  of  the  author,  have  been  sold  for 
twenty  and  thirty  dollars  each  ;  and  the  pur- 
chaser prohibited  from  communicating  the  re- 
ceipt  to  any  other  person*  Ey  this  means, 
useful  discoveries  are  sometimes  wholly  lost; 
and  our  improvement  in  arts  and  manufactures 
make  but  slow  progress. 

Sliould  this  attempt  meet  with  reasonable 
encouragement  the  work  will  be  enlarged  and 
amended,  \a  future  editions,  as  ihe  author  may 
find  time  and  ineaas  for  the  purp  jse^ 


THE- 

DYERS  COMPANION. 

RECEIPTS,  Sec, 

1.  To  set  a  blue  Vat  of  twelve  Barrel's. 

FOR  a  vat  of  twelve  barrels ;  fill  the  vat  about 
half  full  of  water,  scaldii^g  hot ;  dissolve 
eight  pounds  of  potash  in  eight  gallons  of  warm 
water ;  fill  the  copper  \vith  water  ;  add  one  half 
of  the  potash  lie,  with  five  pounds  of  madder, 
and  four  quarts  of  wheat  bran  ;  heat  this  with  a 
moderate  fire,  nearly  to  boiling  ^hcat,  often  stir- 
ring it — turn  this  into  the  vat.  Take  fivepounds 
of  indigo,  wet  it  with  one  gallon  of  the  potash  lie, 
and  grind  it  well :  then  fill  your  copper  with  wa- 
ter, and  add  the  remainder  of  your  potash  lie, 
when  cool,  (being  careful  in  pouring  it  off,  as 
the  sediment  is  injurious  to  the  dye)  ;  add 
this  compound  of  indigo,  &c-  and  four  pounds 
of  woad  ;  stir  this  continually  over  a  moderate 
fire,  until  it  boils  ;  then  turn  it  into  the  vat,  and 
stir,  rake  or  plunge  vvcU,  until  well  mixed  toge- 
ther ;  cover  it  close  and  let  it  stand  two  hours  ; 
then  add  four  ounces  of  borax,  rake  well,  and 
let  it  stand  twelve  hours. 

If  it  does  not  come  to  work,  then  take  two 
quarts  of  unslacked  lime,  and  six  quarts  of  wa- 
ter, putting  them  into  a  vessel  proper  for  the 
purpose,  and  stirring  well ;  after  standing  till 
well  settled,  take  the  lie  of  the  lime,  and  rake 
again,  cover  close,  and  let  it  stand  two  hours. 
The  symptoms  of  the  dye  being  fit  to  v/ork;- 
B 


€  UVER   S    COrjPANIOlMv 

may  be  known  by  the  rising  of  a  fine  coppdi'- 
coloured  scum,  on  top  of  the  dye,  and  hkewisc, 
a  fine  froth  rising,  called  the  head  ;  your  dye 
will  look  green,  and  your  cloth  dipt  in  it,  before 
it  comes  to  the  air,  ^vill  look  green  also. 

Form  of  a  Vat  and  other  Utensils  necessary  for 
Blue  Dying. 

1st.  The  Fat  ought  to  be  made  of  pine  plank, 
at  least  two  inches  thick  :  it  should  be  five  feet 
long,  and  the  width  sufficient  for  containing  the 
quantity  required  \  the  largest  end  down,  and 
about  three  feet  in  the  ground  ;  hooped  with 
large  iron  hoops  as  far  as  it  stands  in  the  ground  ; 
and  all  above  ground  covered  with  v;ooden 
hoops  ;  the  top  covered  tight  with  a  thick  cover 
so  as  to  exclude  the  cold  air.  A  small  lid  should 
be  made  to  open  and  shut  at  pleasure  for  the 
purpose  of  admitting  the  dye  into  the  vat,  stir- 
ring, raking,  &c.  It  is  absolutely  necessary  to 
cover  close,  so  as  to  confine  the  heat  and  steam 
from  the  time  you  begin  to  empty  your  liquor, 
imtil  your  vat  is  full.  The  liquor  should  be  con^ 
veyed  from  the  copper  to  the  vat  by  a  spout  or 
trunk,  and  after  stirring,  be  immediately  cover- 
ed close. 

2d.  The  Rake  is  of  an  oval  form,  with  a 
handle  through  the  middle,  of  sufficient  length 
to  reach  the  bottom  of  the  vat  with  ease. 

3d.  The  Screen  or  Raddle^  to  prevent  the 
goods  from  sinking  upon  the  sediment.  This 
utensil  is  placed  about  ten  or  twelve  inches  from 
the  bottom  of  the  vat.  It  should  be  as  large  a^ 
the  top  of  the  vat  will  admit,  and  filled  with  net- 
ting or  splinters  ;  it  should  be  hung  by  three 
cords  from  the  top,  so  as  to  be  easily  taken  out 
when  necessary,  and  a  weight  in  the  middle  suf- 
>ficient  to  keep  it  down* 


irVER^S    COMPANION.  7 

4th.  The  Cross- Bar,  or  stick  across  the  vat. 
This  should  be  about  one  inch  in  diameter,  and 
placed  about  six  inches  from  the  top,  and  across 
the  middle  of  the  vat. 

5th.  The  Handlers,  Claws  or  Hooks,  7\x^  for 
managing  the  cloth  in  the  dye,  (for  no  air  must 
come  to  the  cloth  while  in  the  dye).  The  claws 
are  made  with  wooden  handles  ;  the  hooks  of 
iron  in  an  oval  form,  half  round,  and  notches  in 
the  hooks  like  saw  teeth,  for  the  purpose  pf 
catching  hold  of  the  cloth. 

To  fit  Cloths  for  Dying. 

In  the  first  place  scour  tlie  grease  well  out  of 
the  cloths.  Take  about  thirty  yards  of  cloth  to 
a  fold  or  draft,  having  prepared,  in  your  copper^ 
about  two  burrels  of  water,  with  four  ounces  ot 
pearlash  therein  ;  in  this  liquor  run  and  prepare 
yourcloth  for  the  vat  abouteight  ortenminutes; 
then  roll  it  out  and  let  it  drain.  Then  fold  it  up 
smooth  on  the  side  of  the  vat,  that  it  may  go  in 
open  ;  toss  the  end  over  the  cross-bar,  and  let  a 
person  on  the  other  side  with  his  handlers  be 
ready  to  poke  it  dov/n,  and  let  it  be  done  quick 
and  liveljv  When  the  cloth  is  all  in  the  vat, 
take  the  other  end  back  again,  by  pulling  it  hand 
over  hand,  very  lively,  till  you  arrive  at  the 
other.  Then  shift  sides,  and  manage  in  this 
manner  till  ready  for  taking  out ;  which  will  be 
in  ten  or  twelve  minutes,  if  the  dye  is  ripe  and 
hot.  But  judgment  must  be  used  in  this  case ; 
when  the  dye  is  weak  and  cool,  it  is  necessary  to 
keep  the  cloth  in  an  hour  or  more  : 

In  taking  the  cloth  out  of  the  vat,  it  is  neces* 
sary  to  use  dispatch.  The  utensils  for  this  pur- 
pose are  tv/o  crooked  irons  passed  just  above 
the  vat,  so  that  two  mtn  may  put  the  cloth  there- 
on, as  taken  out  of  the  vat ;  then  a  windlass  for 


8  dyer's    COMPANrOlf. 

the  purpose  of  wringing  the  cloth  as  dry  as  con^ 
venieiitly  can  he  done.  Hang  your  cloth  then  in 
the  optn  air,  till  it  is  perfectly  cool.  At  the 
j:;ame  time,  if  you  have  more  cloth,  prepare,  it  as 
described  before  in  the  copper  of  pearlash  water. 
This  process  must  be  observed  every  time  the 
cloth  is  dipped  in  the  vat.  Two  dippings  arc 
commonly  sufficient  for  colouring  the  first  time  ; 
then  air  and  rince,  and  this  will  be  a  pretty  good 
blue — and  full  and  manage  as  you  do  cloths  to 
prepare  tliem  f  >r  colouring.  However,  your  dye 
must  not  be  crowded  too  fast  at  first. 

If  you  find  your  dye  does  not  colour  fast 
enough,  cover  and  rake,  and  let  it  stand  an  hour 
or  two;  being  careful  to  keep  the  vat  covered, 
excepting  when  the  cloth  is  in  :  work  the  dye 
till  it  is  cool,  then  heat  it  again.  If  all  your  cloths 
are  not  coloured  for  fulling ;  heat  your  dye  agaiii 
in  the  copper  or  other  utensil,  nearly  to  boiling 
heat,  then  turn  it  into  the  vat  and  cover  it  up  ; 
add  two  pounds  of  pearlash,  rake  well,  and  let  it 
stand  ten  or  tvyelve  hours  ;  then  rake  it,  and  let 
it  stand  tu^o  hours,  when  it  will  be  fit  for  work. 
Let  the  dye  be  worked  as  long  as  it  will  colour 
well ;  then  manage  as  before  until  the  dye  is  re» 
duced.  Recruit  as  before  in  setting,  and  man- 
ijge  in  the  same  manner  till  your  cloths  are  all 
coloured.  Only  omit  two  pounds  of  potash  and 
one  pound  of  indigo  out  of  the  quantity  ;  and 
the  dye  must  stand  to  come  to  work,  which  wall 
probably  l>e  sooner  than  at  first ;  caution  must 
be  used  about  working  it  too  soon. 

The  cloths  when  fulled  and  prepared  for  co- 
louring, must  be  managed  as  at  first,  and  rui^ 
till  they  suit.  After  yon  have  done  colouring, 
open  your  vat,  rake  well,  and  give  the  dye  all 
the  air  you  can.  Let  it  stand,  and  it  ma3''  be 
kept  good  for  many  years,  if  rightly  managed : 
After  it  has  been  recruited  several  times,  it  will 


dyer's    COMPANION-  3 

be  necessary  to  dip  off  the  dye  carefully  so  as 
not  to  disturb  the  sediment  or  lees,  and  throw 
the  lees  awaJ^  When  the  dvQ  has  been  stand- 
ing a  long  time,  it  is  necessary  to  throw  away 
the  lees,  for  they  will  have  a  tendency  to  injure 
the  dye,  and  the  colour  will  not  be  so  bright  if 
they  remain  in  the  vat.  The  dye  will  not  come 
to  work  so  soon  as  if  the  sediment  had  remain- 
ed in  the  vat,  and  it  ought  not  to  be  disturbed 
excepting  when  it  is  necessary  to  dispense  with 
some  of  the  kes. 

The  dyer  being  careful  to  manage  according 
to  these  directions,  will  have  the  best  mode  of 
dying  cloth  blue,  known  by  me. 

To  color  yarn  or  wool  in  this  dye,  the  yarn 
must  be  hung  loose  in  the  dye,  and  the  wool  be 
put  loose  into  a  nett  and  then  immersed. 

When  the  goods  are  dyed,  have  them  imme- 
diately rinced  in  clear  water ;  when  dryed,  take 
twelve  gallons  of  warm  water  to  one  pound  of 
hard  soap  dissolved,  and  one  pint  of  beef  gall ; 
wet  the  cloth  with  this,  and  let  it  run  in  the  mill 
eight  or  ten  minutes,  then  rince  it  with  fair  wa- 
ter till  perfectly  clean,  and  it  will  prevent  the 
goods  from  crocks,  &.c.  if  the  color  is  not  struck 
through  the  cloth  and  cuts  light  in  the  middle, 
to  20  yards  take  half  pint  of  color,  put  in 
your  copper  of  boiling  hot  water,  run  one  hour, 
and  rince  welL 


2d.  ANOTHER  METHOD  FOR  BLUE. 

The  best  to  dye  Yarn  or  Wool. 

TO  set  a  tub  of  6  gallons,  take  five  gallons  of 
good  old  sig,to  which  add  2gillsofspirits,half 
a  pound  of  good  indigo  made  fine  ;  put  it  in  a 
B2 


19  dyer's  companio:;. 

bag,  wet  It  and  rub  it  out  in  the  dye,  then  add 
two  ounces  of  pearlash,   and  2  ounces  of  good 
madder  ;  stir  and  mix  it  all  together,  let  it  stand 
24  hours  ;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  wheat  bran, 
stir  it  up  till  well  mixed  together,  let  it  stand  2i 
hours  longer,  and  if  your  dye  does  not  come  to 
work  by  this  time,  stir  it  as  often  as  once  in  two 
or  three  hour.*-,  but  do  not  apply  your  goods  be- 
fore your  copper  scum  and  froth  rises,  and  the 
dye  looks  greenish  when  dropping,  and  your 
yarn  or  wool  looks  greenish  when  applied  to  the 
dye,  which   are  symptoms  that  your  dye  is  in 
good  order  for  use  ;   but  you  must  be  cautious 
notto  crowd  your  dye  too  full,for  many  blue  dyes 
are  destroyed  in  this  way.  Be  careful  also  about 
reducing  your  dye  too  low  ;  always  keep  indi- 
go in  the  bag,  rubbing  it  out  when  necessary  ; 
and  you  need  not  stop  your  dye  to  recruit  it  af- 
ter it  has  come  to  work  ;  but  make  your  addi- 
tions when  you  take  your  goods  out,  as  you  find 
it  necessary.     Wring  out  the  goods,  stir  your 
dye  well  together,   cover  it  close,  and  place  it 
where  it  will  keep  lukewarm.  It  will  not  dye  so 
quick  as  the  other  dye,  but  it  will  make  a  superior 
blue.     It  is  commonly  from  two  to  three  days 
'  in  colouring  for  a  deep  blue. 

N.  B.  The  yarn  or  wool  sliould  be  wet  in 
warm  sig,  before  it  is  put  in  the  dye,  and  the  tub 
covered  close,  &.c. 


2d.  ANOTHER  METHOD   FOR  BLUE. 

TAKE  half  apn.il  full  of  good  ashesi  two  quarts 
rif  stone  lime,  and  as  much  sig  as  to  rurl' 
through  three  gallons  of  liq^uQr ;  add  two  ounces 


BYER^S   COMPANI027.  11 

of  good  indigo  made  fine,  four  ounces  of  good 
madder,  and  half  a  pint  of  wheat  bran  ;  stir  and 
mix  it  well  together,  let  it  stand  two  days,  then 
stir  it  up,  and  put  in  half  a  pint  of  good  emp. 
tines.  Let  it  stand  24  hours,  and  your  dye  will 
be  fit  for  work. 

Directions  to  be  observed  in  common  Colour* 
ing. 

EVERY  person  that  understands  his  business 
knows  what  utensils  are  necessary  for  the  busi- 
ness in  colouring  ;  however,  I  will  give  a  briei' 
description  of  those  commonly  used. 

The  first  thing  necessary  is  the  copper  kettle  .;• 
I  sa^/  cropper  kettle,  because  it  is  most  common- 
ly used  in  all  hot  djTS,  and  all  hot  dyes  may  be 
coloured  in  the  copper,  and  I  shall  mention  no 
other  in  the  fallowing  receipts.  Block  tin  of 
brass,  are  better  for  red  and  yelloiv,  than  the  cop*- 
per  ;  and  iron  the  best  for  black  or  green  ;  but  this 
I  leave  to  the  discretion  of  those  in  practice. 
The  size  ought  to  be  from  two  to  four  barrels, 
according  as  your  business  requires.  In  setting 
thekettle,reference  should  be  had  to  convenience 
of  heating  and  working. 

The  Reel^  as  it  is  commonly  called,  which  is 
used  for  managing  the  cloth  in  the  dye,  is  conduct- 
ed over  and  over  in  the  dye,  being  turned  by  a 
wench  ;  and  the  cloth  is  poked  down  and  spread 
open  by  a  stick  about  three  feet  long.  The  cloth 
always  should  be  tended  lively  v.  hen  in  the  dye. 
(The  time  the  cloth  is  to  be  in  these  dyes,  will 
hereafter  be  described.) 

When  the  cloth  has  been  a  sufficient  time  in 
the  dye,  then  reel  or  wind  it  up  ;  let  it  drain  a  few 
minutes,  then  take  it  out  in  the  open  air,  and 
spread  it  till  perfectly  cool ;  and  this  must  be  the 
management  every  time  the  cloth  iis  dipped*  Ne- 


12  DYER^S   COMPANIOK. 

yer  add  any  dye-stufFor  water  when  the  cloth  is 
in  the  dye ;  but  when  added,  stir  and  mix  the 
dye  well  together  before  the  cloth  is  put  in.  The 
cloths  should  be  perfectly  cool  to  prevent  their 
spotting,  and  for  the  brightness  of  colours  have 
the  kettle  well  cleaned.  To  clean  a  copper,  the 
most  common  form  I  practise,  is  to  rince  the 
dye  well  off,  then  take  some  ashes  and  a  swab, 
and  rub  it  well  and  rince  it  clean,  and  it  will  an- 
swer  for  most  colours.  But  if  it  does  not  appear 
bright  enough, then  take  half  a  gill  of  oil  of  vitriol, 
and  rub  in  the  same  manner  as  before  ;  rince 
clean,  &;c. 

Tq  clean  a  Copper* 

TAKE  four  ounces  of  allum,  two  quarts  of 
vinegar,  and  two  ounces  of  oil  of  vitriol  ;  put 
them  all  together,  heat  them  boiling  hot,  and  put 
them  into  your  kettle  ;  wash  it  well  with  a  swab, 
rince  it  with  water  dean,  and  it  will  be  fit  for 
any  dyes. 


I 


^  GENERAL  RULE. 

SHALL  lay  it  down  as  a  general  rule,  to  take 

20  yds.  or  16  lbs.  weight  for  the  quantity  of 

cloth,  for  which  to  proportion  thedye-stuff.  How- 
€ver,any  quantity  of  cloth  or  goods  may  be  colour- 
ed by  the  following  receipts;  only  in  the  like  pro- 
portion  as  before  mentioned  :  and  another  thing 
is  to  be  observed,  the  different  states  of  the  dyes, 
by  giving  all  your  goods  an  equal  chance  in  the 
dye  ;  for  most  of  colours  the  dye  is  good  for 
nothing  for  that  colour  after  the  colour  is  doiie^ 


4  A  FOR  BLUE. 
TO  20  yds.  of  fulled  cloth,  take  four  pounds  of 
good  logwood  chips  ;  fill  your  copper  with  fair 


DVER^S    COMPANION-.  13 

water,  add  the  logwood,  and  boil  well  till  the 
strength  is  out ;  then  add  one  pound  of  good 
madder  and  one  pound  of  allum  ;  let  it  siuiiner 
together  fifteen  minutes,  but  not  boil,  (for  the 
madder  ought  never  to  boil  (run  your  cloth 
twenty  or  thirty  minutes,  roll  out  and  air  it ;  let 
tlie  dye  simmer  a  few  minutes^  then  run  it  again 
as  before,  with  the  heat  of  the  dye  increasing, 
about  thirty  minutes  :  air  it,  and  "the  cloth ^will 
tlien  appear  of  a  purple  cast  or  shade.  Then 
take  two  ounces  of  verdigrease  pulverized  fine; 
then  take  one  pint  of  sig  ;  put  them  into  a  pro- 
per vessel,  and  simmer  them  together  with  con- 
stant stirring,  till  well  mixed  and  dissolved  ; 
then  add  this  to  your  dye,  with  two  gallons  of  sig, 
and  two  ounces  of  blue  vitriol ;  boil  them  mode- 
rately together  about  15  minutes,  then  stopyouf 
dye  from  boiling,  and  stir  well  together,  then  run 
your  cloth  about  thirty  minutes  :  run  in  this 
manner  till  the  colour  suits,  and  you  will  have  a 
fine  blue,  but  it  will  not  be  so  durable  as  Indigo 
blue. 

5t/i.     FOR   KAVY  BLUE. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  fulled  cloth ;  fill  your 
copper  with  fair  water,  heat  it  boiling  hot,  take 
two  pounds  of  copperas,  half  a  pound  of  allum, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  argal,  or  red  tartar — puh 
yerize  these  together,  and  put  this  compound 
into  the  boiling  w^ater — skim  your  dye,  stop  its 
boiling,  run  your  cloth  twenty  or  thirty  minutes, 
air  and  run  it  again,  as  before,  twenty  minutes, 
air  and  rince  it  in  water  ;  shift  your  liquor  from 
the  copper,  rince  your  copper,  fill  it  with  fair 
water,  then  add  four  pound  of  good  logwood 
chips,  boil  well  twenty  minutes,  then  slacken 
your  fire  and  add  an  half  pound  of  good  mad- 
der;  let  it  simmer  fifteen   minutes — together 


I4f  dyer's  companion. 

with  one  ounce  vcrdi^rease  made  fine,  as  de- 
scribed in  receipt  fourth,  with  sig,  &c-  then  take 
one  gallon  of  sig  and  add  natli  the  rest  to  the 
dye,  stir  them  well  together,  till  the  dye  is  well 
mixed  ;  run  your  cloth  again  in  this  dye  thirty 
minutes,  air  it  and  add  two  ounces  of  pearl- 
ash  and  run  it  again,  vvidi  the  dye  well  mixed 
together — handle  in  this  manner,  till  your  co- 
lour pleases.  This  >vill  be  a  good  blue,  rathev 
preferable  to  receipt  No.  4 

e:/i.  PRUSSIAA^BLUE. 

Compound,  or  Chymic. — This  compound 
or  blueing  is  made  thus :  Take  one  pound  oF 
good  flotong  indigo  pulverized,  four  pounds  of 
oil  of  vitriol,  and  two  ounces  of  fine  salt — put 
this  in  a  stone  pot  (or  some  earthen  vessel)  that 
will  contain  six  times  the  quantity  of  this  com- 

Sound,  or  it  will  be  liable  to  rise  and  run  over, 
'irst  put  in  the  vitriol,  then  the  indigo,  then  the 
salt ;  stir  this  continually  one  hour,  or^  till  it 
gets  pretty  well  settled  and  cool — for  it  will  boil 
and  foment  in  a  terrible  manner.  Let  it  stand 
four  days  or  a  week,  covered  close,  stirring  it 
now  and  then,  as  is  most  convenient. 


Wi.     ANOTHER  METHOD   FOR  BLUEING, 
OR  COMPOUND. 

TAKE  one  pound  of  common  good  indigo, 
six  pounds  of  oil  of  vitriol,  half  a  pound  of  stone 
lime — put  these  togedier  (as  described  before) 
in  the  pot  and  stir  it — This  will  be  fit  to  use  in 
forty  eight  hours.  I  have  mixed  it  without 
either  lime  or  salt ;  but  it  requires  more  stirring 
and  longer  standing  before  it  is  fit  for  use.  This 


CT)mpouncl  is  used  for  dying    Prussian  blue, 
green  and  many  other  colours. 


tth  PRUSSIAjY^LUE. 

PILL  your  copper  with  fair  water,  heat  it 
nearly  boiling  hot,  then  add  of  your  blueing  (as 
is  before  mentioned)  a  little,  and  stir  it  well  with 
the  water,  run  your  cloth,  roll  out,  air,  and  add 
oiFyour  compound  by  little  and  little,  till  your 
colour  pleases. — You  may  make  in  this  dye, 
any  shade  you  wish  of  this  kind  of  blue,  an4 
very  bright. 

9th.  FOR  GREEM 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  six  pound  of 
fustick  chips  and  boil  them  well,  then  add  one 
quarter  pound  of  allum,  run  your  cloth  till  it  is 
a  good  yellow,  then  add  of  your  blueing^"  about 
half  a  gill  at  a  time,  stir  and  m.ix  it  well  together 
in  the  dye,  run  your  cloth  with  a  hot  fire  fif- 
teen or  twenty  minutes,  then  air  and  add  a  little 
Tof  your  blueing  and  run  again  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  before,  and  add  of  your  blueing,  little  by 
little,  till  your  colour  suits. 

If  you  have  a  considerable  quantity  of  cloth 
to  colour,  it  will  be  necessary  to  boil  your  fus- 
tick till  your  dye  is  strong  ;  then  put  it  in  a  tub 
for  the  convenience  of  dipping  it  off  as  it  is  w^ant- 
ed  to  mix  with  the  bluing.  The  quantity  of 
yellow  dye  to  be  dipped  off,  must  be  left  to  the 
discretion  of  the  dyer,  according  to  the  quantity 
of  cloth  in  colouring  ;  let  the  chips  remain  in 

*  This  compound  of  vitriol  and  indigo,  is  known  by  tfee 
ilueing  chymkk  or  snxonjiot* 


16  J^VER'S    COiiPA^^IOiv. 

the  kettle,  and  fill  your  copper  Avith  water,  boil 
again,  and  yellow  your  cloth  till  a  good  yellow, 
by  ridding  allum  every  dipping — then  take  the 
chips  out  of  the  dye,  then  add  of  your  blueing 
run  all  your  clothes,  then  add  of  your  blueing 
and  yellow  dye,  having  your  dye  hot  and  well 
mixed  together — run  your  cloth,  and  add  of 
your  compound  and  yellow  dye,  by  little  and  lit- 
tle, well  mixed  and. stirred  together  ;  and  if  the 
colour  does  not  appear  bright  enough,  frequent- 
ly add  a  little  allum,  keep  it  in  much  longer,  and 
this  will  give  lustre  to  your  colour.  This  is 
the  best  method  of  dying  a  bright  green,  I  be- 
lieve in  the  world,  or  the  best  I  ever  knew. 

Green  requires  the  judgment  of  the  dj^er  to 
prevent  one  colour  from  overrunning  the  other, 
otherwise  the  colour  will  appear  dull,  and  never 
can  be  made  bright.  But  follow  the  receipt  with 
care  and  judgment,  and  you  will  have  a  very  . 
fine  green. 


lOtk.  FOR  GREEM 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  five  pounds  of 
good  fustick  chips,  boil  well,  then  add  two 
ounces  of  allum,  run  your  cloth  till  a  good  yel- 
low ;  then  add  of  your  blueing  half  a  pound,  run 
your  cloth  twenty  or  thirty  minutes,  then  air, 
and  add  a  little  copperas  and  a  little  logwood  ; 
let  it  boil  a  few  minutes,  run  again  and  handle 
till  your  colour  pleases. 


l\th.  FOR  GREEN, 

TO  twenty  yardb  of  cloth  take  four  pounds  of 
fustick  chips,  boil  well,  then  add  two  ounces  of 
pearlash,  one  ounce  of  allum,  one  ounceof  «qua-> 
Ibrtis — let  it  boil,  stir  and  mix  it  well  together; 


then  run  your  cloth  till  a  good  yellow  ;  air,  and 
add  of  your  blueing,  mix  well  with  your  dye, 
run  your  cloth,  and  add  of  your  blueing  by  little 
and  little,  till  your  colour  pleases; 


\2tru  FOR    GREEji', 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  four  quarts  of 
wheat  bran,  wet  it  with  vinegar,  let  it  stand 
twelve  hours ;  fill  your  copper  with  fair  water., 
put  your  bran  in  a  bag  and  let  it  boil  in  the  wa- 
ter one  hour,  take  it  out,  let  it  drain,  and  squeeze 
it  dry  as  you  can ;  then  add  two  ounces  of  ar- 
gal,"^'  made  fine,  and  one  ounce  of  allum  ;  boil 
well,  run  your  cloth  forty  minutes,  boiling ; 
then  air  and  rince,  shift  your  liquor  from  your 
Qopper,  rince  and  fill  with  fair  water ;  then  add 
four  pounds  of  fustick  chips,  boil  well  till  tlie 
Strength  is  well  out,  then  add  a  little  allum,  and 
run  your  cloth  thirty  minutes  more;  then  addi 
gradually,  as  much  blueing  as  is  necessary,  and 
sadden  with  a  little  copperas. 

If  the  colour  is  not  bright  enough,  shift  your 
dye  from  your  coi^per,  and  fill  with  fair  water  ;t 
heat  it  nearly  to  boiling  heat,  add  a  little  bla^g^ 
Cfnji  handle  till  your  colour  pleases* 


iz(h  FOR  greea: 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  five  pounds 
gf  fustick  chips,  and  boil  well ;  then  add  two 
ounces  of  allum,  and  six  ounces  of  compound 
or  blueing— half  of  your  blueing  at  a  time ;  run 
your  cloth  thirty  minutes,  then  add  the  rest  of 
your  blueing  together  with  yellow  dye  and  a  lit- 

•*  TEi^i^.oil^d  by  spme,  Cptde,'(Si:^ReftTartajr 
Q 


18  dyer's  companiox. 

tie  allum ;  run  again  as  before  ;  then  add  two 
ounces  of  blue  vitriol,  boil  well,  and  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases. 

N .  B.  These  green  dyes  are  worth  saving  as 
they  are  useful  in  many  dyes,  especially  for  bot. 
tie  green  in  the  first  beginning. 


] 4th.  FOR  BOTTLE  GREEJM". 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  three  pounds 
jof  fustick  chips,  boil  well,  then  add  two  ounces 
of  allum  and  your  blueing ;  stir  andimix  them  well 
together,  then  runyour  cloth  thirty  minutes,  air 
and  run  again  till  you  have  it  a  good  deep  green ; 
then  add  two  pounds  of  logwood,  boil  well,  take 
one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  verdigrease,  pulverize 
it,  and  put  in  a  proper  vessel  with  one  pint  of 
vinegar;  let  it  simmer  together  with  constant 
stirring,  till  all  dissolved ;  then  add  it  to  the  dye, 
stir  and  mix  it  well  together,  run  your  cloth 
•with  your  dye  hot,  thirty  or  forty  minutes ;  then 
air  and  sadden  with  copperas,  till  the  colour  is 
dark  enough. 

If  your  green  goes  off,  shift  your  dye  from  your 
copper,  clean  it  well,  rince  your  cloth  well,  fill 
your  kettle  with  fair  water,  heat  it  boiling  hot, 
and  add  blueuig  by  degrees  till  your  coIqijjj 
pleases. 


l^th.  JPOR  BOTTLE  GREEJW 

FOR  twenty  yardsof  cloth,  fill  your  coppfer 
with  fair  water,  heat  it  boiling  hot ;  take  half  a 
pound  of  blue  vitriol,  and  let  it  dissolve  in  the 


DYER'S   COMPANION.  19 

water ;  run  your  cloth  30  minutes,  air  and  run 
Jigain  as  before ;  then  add  three  pounds  of  good 
logwood  chips  and  two  pounds  of  fustick,  and 
boil  well ;  run  your  cloth,  and  handle  till  your 
colour  pleases  ;  and  you  will  have  a  fine  bottle 
green,  but  it  is  more  liable  to  fade  than  the  other, 
which  will  hold  equal  to  a  blue. 

Or  this,  take  one  pound  blue  vitriol,  heat  your 
copper  with  fair  water,  near  boiling  hot,  run 
your  cloth,  then  air  and  run  again  as  before ;  then 
air,  run  and  shift  your  liquor,  then  add  6  poun^ 
fustick  and  4  pound  logwood  chips,  boil  well 
and  run  again  as  above,  &c. 


letli.    JFOR  OLIVE  GREEJ\^. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  six  pounds  of 
fustick,  boil  well,  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  allum,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  blueing ;  - 
run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  add  half  a  bushel 
of  butternut  bark  ;  let  it  boil  moderately  till  the 
strength  is  well  out ;  run  your  cloth  30  minutes, 
air,  and  run  again ;  then  add  one  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  copperas,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 

When  I  have  any  bright  green  dye,  as  in  re- 
ceipt  No.  9,  I  use  it  as  a  preparation  for  the 
olive  green. 


I7t/i.     FOR   YELLOW. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  aquafortis,  and  as  much  pewter  or 
block  tin  as  the  aquafortis  will  dissolve ;  f  fir  at 
pouring  the  pewter  in  a  melted  sta^e  mio  wa- 
ter :)  fill  your  copper  with  fair  water,  heat  boil- 


ing  liot ;  then  add  the  compound  of  aqua{offis>j 
&c.  with  six  ounces  of  argal,  and  half  a  pound 
of  allum  ;  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  boiling  forty 
mhiutes ;  then  air  and  rince,  and  shift  your  li- 
quor from  your  copper  ;  fill  with  fair  water, 
then  take  four  pounds  of  good  fustick,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  turmerick,  boil  well,  and 
add  half  a  pound  of  allum ;  run  your  cloth  thirty 
minutes,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases*. 


IStn.  FOR  YELLOlK 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  pound  oF 
allum,  fill  your  copper  with  fair  water,  heat  boil- 
ing hot,  run  your  cloth  boiling,  three  quarters  of^ 
an  hour  ;  air,  rincc  and  shift  your  liquor  from 
your  copper ;  rince  and  fill  with  fair  water  ;  add 
six  pounds  of  good  fustick,  boil  well,  then  add 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  allum,  and  tvyo  ouncei^ 
of  aquafortis  killed  with  pewter  as  described  in 
receipt  No.  17;  stir  and  mix  it  well  togethel? 
with  your  dye  ;  run  your  cloth  and  handle  till 
your  colour  suits  your  fancy. 

The  dyer  must  be  exceeding  careful  in  thesb 
yellow  dyes,  that  his  copper  utensils  and  cloth 
are  all  clean  ;  for  the  yellow  dyes  are  very  easily 
spoiled.  It  also  requires  great  care  about  hand- 
ling the  cloths,  that  you  do  not  touch  them 
against  any  thing  that  will  spot  them,  for  that 
is  not  very  easily  mended* 

N.  B.  The  aquafortis  must  be  put  in  a  sound 
earthen  or  glass  vessel,  to  contain  much  more 
tlian  the  quantity  t)f  j^quaforlis  ;  for  it  will  boil 
and  fly,  and  appear  to  be  red  hot  when  you  put 
in  the  pewter  or  block  tin  ;  and  it  must  be  fed 
as  long  as  it  will  dissolve  it.  Then  let  it  stand 
till  cold ;  and  stopped  with  wax  or  glass  stog- 


,   DYER'S  COMPANION.  2dt 

per  and  it  will  keep  good  for  work,  then  apply 
it  to  the  dye.  This  is  the  way  that  aquafortis 
must  be  used,  except  otherwise  directed.  Re- 
member  the  pewter  or  block  tin  must  be  melted 
and  thrown  into  water,  and  it  will  dissolve  the 
better,  &c. 


19//;.   BUFF  YELLOW. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  four  pounds 
of  good  fu  stick  5  boil  well;  then  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  the  best  madder  and  six  ounces 
of  allum ;  let  it  simmer  together,  but  not  boil, 
(for  the  madder  must  not  boil,  but  be  near  boil- 
ing) run  your  cloth,  and  handle  till  your  colour 
pleases. 

N.  B»  The  yellow  dye  (after  you  have  done 
dying  your  yellow,)  max',  be  useful  to  all  co- 
lours that  have  yellow  in  them  ;  for  greeny 
olive,  &.C. 


^Oth.TO  TAKE  THE  COLOUR  OUT  OF  CLOTH. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  two  pounds 
of  red  tartar,  four  pounds  of  allum,  three  quar^ 
ters  of  a  pound  of  cream  of  tartar,  one  pound  of 
white  argal  or  tartar  ;  pulverize  and  mix  them 
together  ;  fill  your  copper  with  fair  water,  heat 
boiling  hot;  then  add  your  compound,  let  it 
boil,  run  your  cloth  one  hour  boiling  ;  and  this 
will  completely  destroy  almost  any  colour  oi? 
^ours. 


^r«r.  FOR  YELLOW. 

AFTER  you  have  taken  the  colour  out.  The 
doth  must  be  wxU  rinced  in  water.    For  twentS'^ 
C  2 


ae  dyer's?  eoM>ANiOK. 

yards  of  cloth  fill  your  copper  with  fair  wateir, 
then  add  two  pounds  of  fustick,  (the  best  kind) 
half  a  pound  of  ground  turmerick,  and  one  ounce 
of  aquafbrtis ;  boil  well,  run  your  cloth,  anc> 
handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


22d  TO  TAKE  THE  COLOUR  OUT  OF  QLOT^k 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  half  a  pound 
of  oil  of  vitriol,  put  in  about  one  quart  of  cold 
water,  stir  it  till  well  mixed  with  the  w^ater  ;  put 
it  in  j^our  copper  already  filled,  and  boiling  hot, 
with  fair  water  ;  run  your  cloth  thirty  minutes, 
air  and  rince,  and  yon  may  make  almost  any  co- 
lour you  please,  on  cloth  that  has  had  the  colour 
taken  out  in  this  wav  ;  but  you  cannot  if  done  in 
the  way  of  receipt  No.  20  It  must  be  observed, 
that  there  cannot  be  any  great  quantity  of  cloth 
or  goods  managed  in  these  preparatioiis  at  once, 
without  shifting  the  liquor ;  for  the  dye-stuff 
that  is  extracted  from  the  cloth  w^ill  overpowei^ 
the  preparation  that  dissolves  the  colour-  I  have 
destroyed  a  black  of  the  best  kind  and  made  t 
jgood  yellow,  in  this  way. 


OTod,  SCARLET  REDv 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  pound  Oi' 
good  fustick,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  turmerick^ 
!MX  ounces  of  aquafortis,  and  half  a  pound  of  ar- 
S^l  or  red  tartar,  which  boil  till  the  strength  is 
wtll  out,  (the  copper  being  clean  as  possible,  and 
the  water  faiv)  then  run  your  cloth  two  hours 


BVER'S   COMPANION.  2o 

With  the  dye  boiling;  then  air,  rince  and  shift 
your  liquor  from  your  copper,  and  fill  with 
dean  water ;  heat  boiling  hot,  then  take  one 
peck  of  wheat  bran  wet  vvith  vinegar,  after  stand- 
ing twelve  hours,  put  it  in  a  bag,  and  boil  well 
one  hour  ;  let  it  drain,  and  squeeze  it  as  dry  as 
you  conveniently  can,  run  your  cloth  30  minutes^ 
air,  rince  and  shift  your  liqnor  from  your  cop- 
per ;  clean  your  copper  as  clean  as  possible,  fill 
with  fair  water,  and  heat  boiling  hot ;  then  add 
Sve  ounces  of  cochineal  made  fine,  one  ounce  of 
yed  arsenick,  two  ounces  and  an  half  of  aqua- 
fortis, two  ounces  of  gum  armoniac  ;  boil  this 
togetlier  till  the  strength  is  v/ell  out ;  then  run 
your  cloth  vvith  the  dye  boiling,  run  till  your 
eolour  suits,  and  you  will  liave  a  fine  scarlets 


^24^//.  WARLET  REb^ 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  peck  6i 
wheat  bran  wet  with  vinegar,  let  it  stand  twelve 
liours  ;  fill  your  copper  with  water,  heat  boiling 
hot ;  put  the  bran  pudding  vMo  a  bag,  let  it 
boil  one  hour,  then  run  your  cloth  with  the  dy6 
boiling  forty  minutes  ;  then  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  aquafortis,  three  quarters  of  a  pound 
of  argal  or  red  tartar  ;  run  forty  minutes  m.ore 
with  the  dye  boiling,  then  air,  riuce  and  shift 
your  liquor  from  your  copper  and  fill  with  wa* 
ter ;  add  one  pound  of  fustick,  and  a  quarter  of 
*a  pound  of  turmerick,  boil  this  one  hour  ;  then 
yun  your  cloth  one  hour  with  the  dye  boiling^: 
air,  rince  and  shift  the  liquor  from  your  copper  ], 
fill  vvith  water,  heat  boiling  hot;  then  add  six 
ounces  of  cocliineal  pulverized,  three  ounces  of 
•aquafortis,  and  one  ounce  of  armoniac  ;  let  it 
'boil  well  fifteen  minutes  ;  run  your  cioth  4fft^ 


24  i)YiiR''S   COMrANION* 

hour  with  your  dye  boiling,  and  you  will  have  a 
fine  scarlet. 


2Sth.  CRIMSOJi  RED. 

To  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  three  quar- 
ters of  a  pound  of  allum^  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  argal ;  pulverize  these  and  mix  theni 
together  ;  fill  your  copper  with  fair  water,  heat 
boiling  hot,  and  add  this  compound ;  stir  and 
mix  it  well  with  the  boiling  water  ;  then  run 
your  cloth  one  hour  boiling  ;  then  air,  rince  and 
shift  your  liquor  ;  fill  with  fair  water,  heat  boil- 
ing hot,  then  take  half  a  pound  of  cochineal  and 
half  a  pound  of  cream  of  tartar  mixed  and  puL 
verized  together ;  then  add  one  half  of  the  cochi- 
neal and  tartar ;  run  your  cloth  three  quarters 
of  an  hour  with  the  dye  boiling ;  then  air  and 
add  of  this  compound  by  little  and  little,  with 
your  dye  boiling,  till  the  colour  is  well  raised  on 
the  red  ;  then  take  half  a  pound  of  the  spirits  of 
sal  armoniac,  and  run  your  cloth  three  quartersr 
of  an  hour,  and  this  will  give  it  the  crimson  hue* 
This  is  a  true  crimson,  and  permanent^ 


^6/A.  FOR  CRIMSOJ\r  RED. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth  ;  take  three  quar^- 
ters  of  a  pound  of  fustick,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  turmerick,  five  ounces  of  aquafortis,  fill 
your  copper  with  water,  add  this  and  boil  well, 
till  the  strength  is  well  out ;  run  your  cloth  one 
and  an  half  hours  with  your  dye  boiling ;  then 
air,  rince  and  shift  your  liquor  from  your  cop- 


b'I'ee's  ookfanion.  ^9^ 

pa*,  and  wash  clean  :  fill  with  foir  water,  ^ea^^ 
boiling  hot,  then  take  foiu'  and  an  half,  ounces  o9 
cochineal,  &  four  and  an  half  ounces  of  cream  o9 
tartar,  pulverised  together ;  add  this  to  the  wa- 
ter with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  aquafortis,  and 
three  ounces  of  turmerick,  in  which  boil  and 
-handle  your  cloth,  run  one  hour,  then  take  ha|,fr 
a  pound  of  spirits  of  sal  armoniac,  or  good  ola 
sig,  to  bloom  with  ;  in  this  handle  with  the  dyfc 
boiling,  till  your  colour  pleases. 


•%7il:.  SOR   JB^D    WITH  REB-WOOD    OR  J\^- 
CARAGUA. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth  ;  take  ten  pounds 
of  red-wood  or  Nicaragua  chips,  and  boil  mo- 
derately in  good  clean  water  one  hour ;  tlien  add 
one  pound  of  allum,  run  your  cloth  forty  min- 
utes, then  air  and  let  the  dye  steep  in  the  sam^ 
manner  as  it  did  before  ;  and  run  again,  adding 
a  little  allum  every  time  you  dip;  and  manage 
in  this  form  till  your  colour  suits  jf our  fmx-y- 
Red- wood  or  Nicaragua  may  be  mixt  togethex- 
or  used  separately,  just  as  tlie  dyer  thinks  fit  and 
proper*    I  commonly  use  both  together. 


StMi,  CRIMSOjY  RED   WITH  RED-WOOD. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  eight  pounds 
of  red- wood,  boil  well,  but  not  fnst,  one  hour, 
then  add  half  a  pound  of  allum,  run  your  cloth 
three  quarters  of  an  hour,  air  and  let  the  dye  sim-^ 
mer  in  the  s^me  manner  as  before  ;  add  a  little 
allum  and  run  your  cloth,  and  manage  in  this 
form  till  tho  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dye  i 


2,6  DVER,S    COMPANION. 

then  add  half  a  pound  of  pearlash  and  handle 
till  your  colour  pleases. 

The  dyes  for  red,  that  are  made  of  red- wood 
and  Nicaragua,  must  not  be  hurried  and  drove, 
nor  crowded  too  full,  because  it  will  destroy  the 
lustre  of  the  red,  and  the  colour  will  be  dulL 
It  is  necessary  the  copper  and  all  the  utensife 
should  be  clean. 


29ih.    JFOn  RED   WITH  MADDER. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  peck  of 
wheat  bran,  boil  it  in  a  small  kettle  with  eight 
gallons  of  water,  one  hour ;  then  fill  your  cop- 
per with  water,  boiling  hot ;  then  add  the  liquor' 
of  the  bran,  and  three  and  an  half  pounds  of  al- 
lum,  one  pound  of  red  argal,  boil  and  run  j^our 
Gloth,  (being  well  scoured  and  clean)  one  and 
an  half  hours,  boiling;  then  air  and  rince  your 
clotli,  and  shift  the  licjuor  from  your  copper; 
fill  with  fair  water,  then  add  eight  pounds  of 
madder  that  is  good,  and  heat  moderately,  with 
constant  stirring,  till  near  scalding  hot;  run  your 
cloth  three  quarters  of  an  hour  uith  a  moderate 
fire,  then  increase  your  fire,  and  bring  it  near  a 
boiling  heat,  but  not  boiling,  for  the  madder 
must  not  boil,  if  you  intend  to  have  a  good  red ; 
then  run  your  cloth  in  this  manner  until  the 
strength  is  well  out  of  the  madder,  and  the  co- 
lour well  raised  on  the  red  ;  then  shift  your  li- 
quor from  your  copper ;  fill  with  water,  and  add 
two  and  an  half  pounds  of  the  best  Brazil,  boil 
well  one  hour,  and  add  three  quarters  of  a  poutid 
of  allum  and  run  your  cloth  till  your  colour 
suits,  boiling  between  each  dipping ;  and  this 
will  produce  a  good  red. 

,  This  colour  may  be  finished  in  the  madder 


OrER'S    OOMPANION*  *2? 

4ye  without  shifting  the  dye,  by  adding  two  gaL 
Ions  of  lant  or  sig.  After  the  colour  is  well 
raised  in  the  madder,  run  your  cloth  thirty  min- 
utes, and  it  will  answer. 

The  best  is  with  Brazil,  but  it  is  more  lengthy, 
and  the  colour  is  brighter  than  with  the  sig ;  so 
i  leave  it  to  the  discretion  of  the  dyer. 


50^//.  FOR  MERROOJ^  RED. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  six  quarts  of 
wheat  bran,  wet  with  vinegar,  let  it  stand  twelve 
hours,  and  sour ;  put  it  in  a  bag,  fill  your  cop- 
per with  water,  heat  boiling  hot,  and  boil  the 
pudding  two  hours  ;  then  take  it  out  and  let  it 
drain  ;  squeeze  as  dry  as  you  can  conveniently  ; 
then  add  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  allum,  and 
half  a  pound  of  red  argal  made  fine,  run  your 
cloth  one  hour  boiling,  air  and  let  it  lie  all  night 
and  sour  ;  then  rince  your  cloth,  shift  your  li- 
quor from  your  copper,  and  fill  it  with  fair  wa- 
ter :  when  warm,  add  ten  pounds  oi'good  mad- 
der, and  four  quarts  of  wheat  bran,  constantly 
stirring  until  it  is  near  boiling,  but  not  boiling, 
for  madder  niust  not  boil ;  run  your  cloth  and 
manage  in  this  manner  till  the  strength  is  well 
out  of  the  dye,  and  the  red  well  raised,  then  add 
one  gallon  of  lajnt  or  sig,  and  handle  till  your  go- 
lour  pleases. 


2\st,  FOR  POLISHED  RED   WITH  MjiDDMR. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  three  and  an 
half  pounds  of  nutg^lls  pulverized,  put  them  in 
the  copper,  and  fill  the  copper  about  half  full  t)f 


^2$*  dyer's    dOHPAMO^v 

\vatcr,  put  the  galls  in,  let  it  boil  till  the  strengtii* 
is  well  out ;  then  fill  the  copper  with  cold  wa- 
iter ;  see  that  yoar  dye  it  not  hotter  than  scalding 
hot ;  then  add  five,  six,  or  seven  pounds  of  the 
best  madder,  in  proportion  to  the  shade  requir- 
ed ;  let  it  simmer  with  a  small  fire  one  hour, 
with  frequent  stirring;  then  run  your  cloth  thirty 
minutes,  air  and  run  again  with  the  heat  increas- 
ing ;  run  till  the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dye, 
and  the  colour  well  raised  on  the  red.  The  dyo 
must  steep  between  each  dipi:)ing,  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes,  with  the  heat  increasing,  but 
not  boiling,  for  it  will  destroy  the  substance  of 
the  madder  to  let  it  boil.  ^  If  your  colour  is  not 
dark  enough,  add  a  little  potash  or  pearl- 
iash,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases ;  and 
YOU  will  have  a  fine  polished  red. 


S2d.  FOR    PORTABLE  RED. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  pound  df 
fustick,  and  tliree  quarters  of  a  pound  of  allum, 
iill  your  copper  with  water,  heat  boiling  hot,  run 
your  cloth,  after  the  strength  is  put  of  the  fus- 
tick,  run  three  quarters  of  an  hour ;  shift  your 
copper,  fill  with  fair  w^ater,  and  then  add  six 
pounds  of  red-wood,  let  it  boil  moderately  one 
hour,  then  add  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  al- 
lum, run  your  cloth  40  minutes ;  then  air,  and 
let  the  dye  simmer  one  and  an  half  hours,  and 
run  your  cloth  as  before ;  then  air  and  take  out 
the  chips,  and  add  one  and  an  half  ounces  of 
cochineal,  and  three  ounces  of  aquafortis ;  run 
again  with  the  dye  boiling,  40  minutes ;  to 
bloom,  take  six  or  eight  ounces  of  spirits  of  sal 
armoniac,  or  good  old  sig ;  and  your  cloth  will 
be  a  good  colour  by  handling  In  this  half  ^ft 
hour. 


dyer's  companion.  29 

33^/.     FOR  CLARET  RED. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  two  pounds  oE 
fustick  chips,  fill  your  copper  with  water,  boil 
well,  then  add  one  pound  of  allum,  boil,  run 
your  cloth  one  hour  boiling,  then  air,  rince  and 
shift  your  copper ;  fill  with  fair  water,  add  eight 
pounds  of  red-wood,  boil  well,  and  add  half  a 
pound  of  allum  ;  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then 
air,  let  the  dye  steep  one  hour,  and  run  again, 
adding  a  little  allum  ;  manage  in  this  manner 
until  the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dj^,  and 
the  colour  well  raised  on  the  red  ;  then  add  two 
ounces  of  aquafortis,  killed  with  pewter  or 
block  tin,  as  described  in  receipt  18th,  ruix 
your  cloth  thirty  minutes  with  the  dye  boiling  ; 
then  add  two  gallons  of  sig  to  bloom,  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases,  and  you  will  have  a  fine 
claret  red- 

?4r//,    FOR  CLARET, 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  twelve  pounds 
of  barwood,  boil  well,  then  add  half  a  pound  of 
allum,  run  your  cloth  until  the  strength  is  well 
out  of  the  dye,  about  thirty  minutes  to  a  dipping, 
boiling  between  each  dipping  as  much  as  is  ne- 
qessary  to  get  the  strength  out  of  the  barwood  c. 
when  the  colour  is  well  raised  on  the  red,  then 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  logwood,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  copperas  mixed  togetherj 
and  handle  until  your  colour  pleases. 


25th.    FOR  MADDER    RED  TO  BE  DYED  A 
CLARET 

TO  t^y^nty  yvds  of  cloth^  take  one  pound  of 


30  dyer's  comtaniox. 

logwood,  fill  with  fair  water,  boil  well,  run  your 
cloth,  and  sadden  with  copperas  until  your  co- 
lour pleases. 


Set/i.    FOR    SCARLET    TO    BE  DYED    CLA^ 
RET  OR  ANY  DARK  COLOUR. 

TO  colour  twenty  yards  of  cloth  ;  fill  your 
copper  with  water,  heat  boiling  hot,  then  add 
one  pound  of  copperas ;  run  your  cloth,  air,  and 
run  it  again;  then  shift  your  liquor  from  your  cop- 
per, rince  it,  and  fill  with  water ;  then  add  one 
and  an  half  pounds  of  logwood,  boil  well  twen. 
ty  minutes,  then  run  your  cloth  till  your  colour 
pleases ;  and  you  will  have  a  fine  claret  that  is 
durable. 

This  is  the  only  way  that  scarlet  can  be  co- 
loured  a  darker  colour.  By  running  it  in  the  cop- 
peras  water  first,  you  may  dye  it  almost  anydark 
colour  you  please  ;  for  the  copperas  will  de- 
stroy all  the  acidous  power  that  the  scarlet  is 
made  by  and  depends  upon ;  but  until  the  pow- 
er of  the  acid  is  destroyed,  you  cannot  strike  any 
colour  through,  so  but  that  it  will  remain  red  in 
the  middle  of  the  cloth. 

I  have  coloured  scarlet  black  completely 
through,  and  almost  all  other  dark  colours,  by 
the  help  of  copperas. 


Sm.    FOR  CHERRY  COLOUR. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  seven  and  an 
half  pounds  of  barwood,  boil  well,  and  add  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  allum :  then  run  your 
clotli  one  hour :  air  and  add  two  pounds  of  Bra^. 


DYER'S    COMPANION. 


/il,  and  boil  till  the  strength  is  well  out ;  run 
your  cloth  again  as  before  till  the  colour  is  well 
raised  on  the  red,  then  add  two  quarts  of  sig  or 
lant,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


38/;^.   FOR    VIOLET  COLOURS. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  four  pounds 
of  Brazil,  and  one  and  a  quarter  pounds  of  log- 
wood ;  boil  wellf  and  add  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  allum,  then  run  your  cloth  thirty  rnin- 
utes,  air,  and  let  it  steep  till  the  strength  is  well 
out ;  then  run  again  as  before,  then  add  three 
quarts  of  lant  or  sig,  with  the  dye  hot  and  well 
mixed  together  ;  run  your  cloth,  and  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases. 

Twenty  shades  of  violet  colour  may  be  pro- 
duced, by  varying  the  logwood  and  brazilletto. 
The  further  management  of  this  dye,  I  have  left 
to  the  fancy  of  the  dyer,  for  the  colour  will  be 
beautiful,  almost  Iqual  to  cochiiieal  and  indigo. 

You  may  use  peach-wood  in  part,  instead  of 
all  brazilletto,  if  you  like.  It  will  be  less  expen- 
sive than  all  brazilletto ;  but  this  I  leave  to  youF 
own  choice. 


39 th.  FOR  PINK  COLOUR, 

FOR  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  fill  your  copper 
with  fair  water,  heat  boiling  hot,  then  add  two 
pounds  of  allum,  and  one  pound  of  argal ;  in 
this  boil  and  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  air, 
rince  and  shift  your  copper ;  fill  with  water,  and 
add  two  pounds  of  madder.  Let  it  heat  mode- 
rately, with  often  stirring,  till  near  boiling  hot, 


32  dyer's    GOMPANiONT 

run  your  cloth  one  hour ;  and  you  will  Rave  a. 
good  CQlour  of  the  kind. 


40tk.  FOR  FLESH  COLOUR. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  oneandanhafr 
bushels  of  black  birch,  and  half  a  bushel  of 
liemlock  bark,  boil  well  till  the  strength  is  well 
out ;  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  allum, 
run  your  cloth  one  hour,  and  handle,  and  you 
will  have  a  good  colour  of  the  kind. 


AUt.  FOR  ORJAGE  COLOUR. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  two  pound^^ 
offustick  chips,  3  ounces  of  argal,  and  half  a 
pound  of  alkim,  boil  till  the  strength  is  well  out 
of  the  fustick,  then  run  your  cloth,  with  the  dye 
boiHng,  one  hour  ;  then  air,  rince,  and  shift  the 
liquor  from  your  copper,  and  fill  with  fair 
water ;  then  add  two  and  three  quarters  pounds 
of  red-wood,  two  and  three  quarters  pounds 
of  madder,  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of 
allum,  and  two  ounces  of  aquafortis ;  let  it 
boil  moderately,  with  often  stirring,  till  the 
strength  is  well  out ;  then  run  your  cloth  one 
hour  ;  then  add  one  and  an  half  ouncej^  of  arsen- 
ick^  and  half  an  ounce  of  cochineal,  and  this  will 
bind  the  colour.  In  this  run  and  handle  till  your 
colour  pleases. 


42rf.  FOR  ORJXGE. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  eight  pounds  of 
fustick,  aixd  four  pounds  of  rcd-wooct,  and  boil 


COMPA^^ION. 


v;ell ;  then  add  half  a  pound  of  allum,  run  your 
cloth  thirty  or  forty  minutes,  then  air,  and  let  the 
dye  steep  a  while,  then  run  again  till  the  strength 
is  well  out  of  the  dye ;  then  add  one  gallon  of  sig 
to  bind  i  and  handle  till  your  colour  suits. 


43d,  FOR  BROWJ^. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  two  bushels 
of  butternut  bark,  fill  ..with  water,  heat  mode- 
rately, let  it  steep,  (but  not  boiling)  till  the 
strength  is  w^ell  out  of  the  bark  ;  then  run  your 
eloth  three  quarters  of  an  hour  ;  and  air  and  run 
again  with  the  dye  hot,  but  not  boiling,  (for 
boiling  the  bark  destroys  part  of  the  lustre  of 
the  colour  which  the  bark  gives)  but  run  in  thi^- 
manner  till  the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dye, 
tlien,  air  and  take  the  bark  out  of  your  dye  ; 
then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  copperas  and 
^wo  quarts  of  sig,  and  mix  the  dye  well  together ; 
run  your  cloth  with  your  dj^Q  boiling  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes,  and  handle  in  this  manner  till 
your  colour  pleases. 

Various  shades  may  be  produced  in  this  dye^ 
by  varying  the  bark  and  copperas;  some- 
times  more  of  one  sort,  and  sometimes  less  r 
and  thus  by  changing  the  order  of  them,  diiF;:rent 
shades  will  ^rppear;  Dry  bark  and  green  will, 
make  a  different  shade;  boiling  and  not  boiling  will 
have  the  same  effect.  Thus  I  leave  it  to  the  dis- 
cretion of  the  dyer,  to  vary  them  as  he  or  she 
pleases,  to  answer  the  shade  or  shades  required*. 


POR  LONDOJsr  BROWN  OR  CORBEAU  WlTIt 
CAMWOOD. 

TO-  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  five  pouncj^ 

-JL/    <4 


34  dyer's  companion. 

of  good  ground  camwood,  fill  your  copper  with 
fair  water,  heat^  boiling  hot,  let  your  camwood 
boil  a  few  minutes,  then  run  your  cloth  one 
hour ;  air  and  run  again  in  the  same  manner  as 
before  ;  air  and  add  half  an  ounce  of  blue  vitriol, 
and  a  quarter  of  pound  of  oil  of  vitriol,^  boil 
well  five  or  six  minutes,  then  run  your  cloth 
twenty  or  thirty  minutes  more  ;  then  take  one 
pound  of  copperas  dissolved  in  vinegar  by  con- 
stant  stirring  on  the  fire,  (but  be  sure  and  not 
let  it  boil,  for  it  will  spoil  the  dye)  then  add  the 
copperas  by  little  and  little,  the  dye  boiling,  and 
run  as  before,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 
If  it  is  not  dark  enough  for  the  corbeau,  take 
two  ounces  of  verdigrease  made  fine,  and  dis- 
solved in  sig  or  vinegar  on  the  fire,  by  often  stir- 
ring, as  described  in  receipt  4th  ;  add  this  with 
one  pound  of  logwood  chips ;  boil  well,  and 
handle  in  this  manner  till  your  colour  suits. 
Sometimes  it  is  required  to  be  very  dark,  then 
these  darkening  materials  must  be  applied 
according  to  the  judgment  of  the  dyer,  &c» 
You  may  change  this  colour  by  adding  a  few 
ounces  of  pearlash,  to  a  bright  purple,  which 
will  be  permanent. 


*  When  oil  of  vitriol  is  applied  to  any  hot'tiquor,  you'must 
before  you  put  it  in  the  dye,  put  seven-eighths  of  cold  water 
to  it,  and  rhen  it  will  heat  near  boiling  hot  with  the  cold 
"water;  but  if  you  put  in  otherwise,  it  will  make  the  hot 
liquor  fly  in  a  shocking  manner,  and  the  dyer  will  be  in  dan- 
ger of  being  scalded ;  and  another  thing  to  be  observed,  you 
must  raise  your  red  for  your  body,  with  camwood  before 
you  apply  your  vitriol,  or  your  camwood  will  be  lost;  for 
camwood  cannot  run  upon  any  other  dye  stuff;  in  what 
e  Imr  it  is  used,  it  must  be  first  applied,  otherwise  it  will 
be  of  no  use ;  yet  camwood  is  the  best  dye-wood  in  the 
world  if  used  ri^ht. 


dyer's  companion*  55 

45'/;.   I^OR  LOJVDOA'-  BROPVJ^   OR   CORBEAU 
WITH  JVICARAG  UA. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  eight  pounds 
€)f  Nicaragua,  and  half  a  pound  of  fustick ;  boil 
well,  and  add  half  a  pound  of  allum,  run  your 
cloth  till  the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dye,  and 
the  colour  well  raised  on  the  red,  then  add  half 
an  ounce  of  blue  vitriol,  and  half  a  gill  of  oil  of 
vitriol,  and  four  quarts  of  sig,  run  your  cloth 
30  minutes  ;  then  add  half  a  pound  of  logwood, 
boil  wcll,add  one  ounce  of  verdigrease,  pulveriz- 
ed and  dissolved,  as  in  receipt  No.  4,  run  your 
cloth  twenty  minutes ;  then  add  copperas  by  lit- 
tle and  little  to  sadden  ;  and  handle  till  your  co^ 
lour  pleases. 


46/A.  LOA'I)OJ\rBROlVJV  OR  CORBEAl^ 
WITH  RE D^ WOOD. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  two  pound's^ 
of  fustick  chips,  boil  well,  and  add  one  pound  of 
allum,  run  your  cloth  boiling  three  quarters  of 
an  hour ;  air  and  rince,  and  shift  your  copper, 
then  fill  with  water,  and  add  ten  pounds  of  red- 
wood chips ;  let  it  boil  moderately  one  hour ; 
then  add  half  a  pound  of  allum,  run  your  cloth 
forty  minutes,  air,  and  let  the  dye  steep  one  hour, 
and  run  again  as  before;  and  handle  in  this 
manner  till  you  have  a  good  red  ;  (you  must  be 
cautious  not  to  drive  the  dye  too  fast,  and  add  a 
little  allum  now  and  then  if  necessary)  and  till 
the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dye  :  then  add  one 
gallon  of  sig  or  urine,  ruayour  cloth  half  an  hour, 
then  add^  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  logwood 
chips,  boil  well,  then  add  two  ounces  of  verdi- 
grease made  fine  aiid  dissolved  in  one  pint  of 


56  dyer's    COMPAI^IONa 

vinegar,  as  described  before,  and  handle  till  yout 
colour  pleases. 


4rM.  LONDO^r  BROWK. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  two  pounds  of 
fustick  and  seven  pounds  of  red-wood  chips^ 
boil  moderately  one  hour,  then  add  half  a  pound 
of  allum,  run  your  cloth  three  quarters  of  an 
hour,  then  slacken  the  heat  of  your  dye,  and  add 
three  pounds  of  madder ;  let  it  stand  and  sim- 
mer with  often  stirring  half  an  hour,  run  your 
cloth  one  hour,  and  ii^  the  strength  is  not  out  of 
the  dye,  run  again.  The  cloth  must  be  a  good 
red  before  you  sadden  ;  then  add  copperas  to 
sadden  with  by  little  and  litde,  till  your  colons: 
^uits^ 


48//i.  FOR  LOjYDOJ^  BROWJV^. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  four  pounds 
of  fustick  chips,  boil  well,  then  add  half  a  pound 
of  allum  ;  then  run  your  cloth  one  hour  boiling, 
then  air  and  rince,  and  shift  your  copper  and  fill 
with  fair  water  ;  then  add  six  pounds  of  red- 
wood chips,  boil  well,  add  half  a  pound  of  allum, 
yunyour  cloth  one  hour,  then  add  one  and  an  half, 
pounds  of  madder,  let  it  simmer  half  an  hour, 
then  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  add  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  logwood  chips,  boil  well, 
then  add  two  gallons  of  sig ;  then  run  your  cloth 
and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


A9tlu  FOR  REDDISH  BROWM 

TO  twenty  yards  of  clotb^  take  one  and  anhali 


pcTiinds  of  fustick,  boil  well,  and  add  a  quartei? 
of  a  pound  of  allum,  in  which  run  your  cloth 
one  hour  boiling  ;  air  and  rince  your  cloth,  shift 
your  liquor  from  your  copper  and  fill  with  fab 
water,  then  add  nine  pounds  of  red- wood  ;  let  it* 
boil  well,  then  add  half  a  pound  of  allum,  rufi 
your  cloth  one  hour,  then  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  pearlash  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  allum  ;  run  your  cloth  half  an  hour,  and  this? 
will  be  a  good  red  ;  then  add  one  ounce  of  arse- 
nick  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  argal ;  ruft 
your  cloth  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  then  add 
two  gallons  of  good  old  sig,  and  handle  till  you.i) 
colour  pleases,  and  you  will  have  a  fine  colonic 


oOth.  FOR  SPAJ^ISH  BROWjV. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  bushel  of 
butternut  bark,  and  one  bushel  of  walnut  bark, 
boil  well,  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  take  the 
bark  out  of  the  dye,  and  add  half  a  pound  of 
copperas  ;  run  your  cloth  forty  minutes  ;  then 
air  and  rince,  and  shift  your  liquor  from  yom" 
copper  ;  fill  with  fair  water,  and  add  tvv  o  pounds 
of  fustick  chips  ;  boil  well,  thenadd  half  a  pound 
of  allum,  run  your  clo'h  one  hour,  and  air  and 
rince,  and  shift  your  liquor  from  your  copper, 
fill  with  fair  watrr,  and  add  eight  pounds  of  red- 
wood ;  boil  well  and  c^^dd  half  a  pound  of  allum, 
run  your  cloth  one  hour ;  then  add  two  ounces 
of  oil  of  vitriol,  killed  with  the  flower  of  brim- 
stone; run  your  cloth  half  an  hour ;  then  add 
half  a  pound  of  logwood,  and  boil  well,  then  add 
two  gallons  of  good  old  sig ;  and  handle  till  youi: 
colour  pleases. 


38 

6\st.  FOR  LOjVDOA^  SMOKE. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  eight  pounds 
of  fustick  chips,  boil  well,  then  add  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  allum ;  run  your  cloth  half  an  hour, 
then  add  one  and  anhalf  bushels  of  good  butter- 
nut bark,  boil  moderately  till  the  strength  is  well 
out,  then  run  your  cloth  one  hour  with  the  dye 
hot ;  then  if  the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dye, 
take  the  bark  and  chips  out  of  the  dye,  and  add 
three  pounds  of  Nicaragua  wood,  or  red- wood, 
and  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  logwood  chips, 
boil  well  thirty  minutes  ;  then  run  your  cloth 
one  hour,  then  add  one  gallon  of  sig,  run  twen» 
ty  minutes  with  the  dye  boiling,  then  add  one 
and  an  half  or  two  pounds  of  copperas,  and  run 
to  your  liking  ;  and  this  will  be  a  colour  equal 
to  a  blue  for  strength,  &c. 


S2d.  CIJSrJVJMOjV  BROWN. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  four  pounds 
of  fustick,  and  three  pounds  of  red- wood  chips, 
or  Nicaragua,  boil  well,  then  add  half  a  pound 
of  allum  ;  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  slack 
the  heat  of  your  dye,  and  add  four  pounds  of 
good  madder  ;  let  it  simmer  half  an  hour  ;  then 
add  half  a  pound  of  allum,  run  your  cloth 
one  hour;  then  add  two  ounces  of  copperas, 
and  two  gallons  of  sig  ;  and  handle  with  the  dye 
hot  till  your  colour  pleases. 


S3d.  FOR  SMOKE  BROWJ\i. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  six  pounds  of 


dyer's  companion.  39 

fustick  chips,  and  three  pounds  of  ground  cam- 
wood, boil  well  till  the  strength  is  well  out ;  then 
run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  add  three  and  an 
half  pounds  of  coarse  madder  ;  let  it  simmer 
twenty  minutes  ;  then  run  your  cloth  half  an 
hour ;  then  add  half  a  pound  of  copperas,  and 
handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


54,th  FOR  LIVER  BROWJ\i\ 

TO  twenty  yards  of  clothj  take  eight  pounds 
of  fustick  chips,  and  two  poui^ds  of  red-wood 
chips,  boil  well  one  hour,  and  run  your  cloth 
forty  minutes  ;  then  add  four  pounds  of  mull> 
or  coarse  madder,  and  two  quarts  of  rotten  wood 
of  oak,  boil  m^oderately,  and  run  your  cloth  one 
hour  ;  then  add  six  or  eight  ounces  of  copperas, 
and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


5Bth.  FOR  OLIVE  BROWM 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  five  pounds 
of  fustick  chips,  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  one 
hour,  then  add  one  bushel  of  butternut  bark  ; 
boil  well,  but  moderately,  one  hour ;  then  run 
your  cloth  one  hour,  or  till  the  strength  is  well 
out  of  the  dye ;  then  take  the  bark  and  chips 
out  of  the  dye,  and  add  six  ounces  of  copperas, 
and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


56th.  FOR  OLIVE  BROWN. 

1rO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  six  pounds  of 
fustick  chips,  and  one  pound  of  logwood,  boil 


40  dyer's  companion. 

well,  and  run  your  cloth  half  an  hour ;  then  add 
one  pound  of  madder,  let  it  simmer  half  an  hour, 
then  run  your  cloth  as  before  ;  then  add  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  chymick  or  blueing,  stir  and 
mix  it  well  with  the  dye,  and  run  your  cloth 
twenty  minutes  ;  then  add  one  and  an  half  pounds 
of  logwood,  and  one^  gallon  of  sig  ;  run  your 
cloth  as  before,  add  six  ounces  of  copperas,  and 
iiandle  till  your  colour  pleases.. 


Bith,  FOR  OLIVE  BROJVJ^. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  seven  pounds 
offustick  chips,  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  log- 
wood, and  half  a  pound  of  madder  ;  boil  well 
one  hour,  then  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  add 
half  a  pound  of  chymick  or  blueing,  and  run 
your  cloth  twenty  niinutes ;  then  add  two  quarts 
of  sig,  and  run  again  as  before  ;  then  add  two 
ounces  of  copperas,  and  handle  till  your  colour 
pleases. 


$8///.  FOR  A  LIGHT  SJsTUFF  BROWJ^\ 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  eight  pounds 
of  fustick  chips,  and  four  pounds  ofred-wood 
or  Nicaragua  ;  boil  well  an  hour  and  a  half,  then 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  allum  ;  run  your 
cloth  thirty  minutes,  then  air  and  run  again  till 
the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dye  ;  then  add  one 
gallon  of  sig,  run  your  cloth  half  an  hour,  then 
take  one  peck  of  soot  scraped  from  the  chimney, 
put  it  into  a  tub,  and  put  two  pails  full  of  your 
dye  to  it ;  stir  it  well  together,  and  let  it  stand 
and  settle  ;  then  pour  off  the  liquor  moderately, 


DYER'o    COMPANION'.  41 

nnd  add  It  to  your  dye;  run  your  cloth,  and 
handle  till,  your  colour  suits. 


^9th.  FOR  S.YUFF  BROJVM 

TO'twenty  yards  of  cloth,  takefour  pounds  ol 
fustrck  chips,  and  boil  well  ;  then  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  allum,  and  run  your  cloth  half  an 
hour  ;  add  five  pounds  of  red- wood,  boil  well, 
and  then  add  half  a  pound  of  allum  ;  run  your 
cloth  as  before  till  the  strength  is  well  out  of 
your  dye,  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  argal, 
and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


x>Oth.  FOR  DARK  SJ^UFF  BROIV.V, 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  six  pounds  of 
fustick  chips,  and  boil  well,  then  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  allum  ;  run  your  cloth  one  hour, 
then  add  two  pounds  of  ground  camwood,  and 
one  and  an  half  pounds  of  madder,  and  let  it 
simmer  half  an  hour  ;  run  your  cloth  one  hour, 
then  add  half  a  pound  of  copperas,  or  more,  if 
the  colour  is  not  dark  enough  ;  and  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases. 


61  St.  FOR  SJVUFF  BROWK 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  three  quarters 
of  a  bushel  of  butternut  bark,  and  tliree  quarters 
of  a  bushel  of  walnut  bark,  boil  well  one  hour, 
but  moderately  ;  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then 
if  the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  bark  and  dye, 
E 


a-J 


take  the  bark  out  of  the  dye,  and  add  one  pound 
of  copperas  to  sadden  w'uh ;  run  your  cloth 
three  quarters  of  an  hour,  air  and  rince  your 
eloth  and  shift  your  hquor  from  your  copper, 
\vash  clean  and  fill  with  f\iir  water;  then  add 
four  pounds  of  fiistick  chips,  boil  well,  and  then 
add  half  a  pound  of  allum  :  run  your  cloth  half 
an  hour;  then  add  five  pounds  of  red- wood 
chips,  boil  one  hour,  and  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  allum  ;  run  your  cloth  three  quarters 
of  an  hour  ;  let  it  steep,  and  run  till  the  strength 
is  ^vell  out  of  the  dye.  To  sadden,  take  one 
tiallon  of  sig,  and  handle,  &c. 


62d.  FOR  SA^UFF  BROJVM 

TOjwenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  pound  of 
allum,  boil,  and  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then 
siuft  your  liquor  from  your  copper,  and  fill  with 
fair  water ;  then  add  five  pounds  of  fustick,  boil 
well  till  the  strength  is  well  out,  then  run  your 
cloth  thirty  minutes;  then  add  one  bushel  of 
butternut  bark,  and  five  pounds  of  sumac  ber- 
ries, boil  moderately  one  hour,  and  then  run 
your  cloth  forty  minutes  ;  then  add  six  ounces 
of  aquafortis,  killed  with  pewter,  as  described 
before  in  receipt  No.  18;  run  your  cloth  with 
the  dye  boiling  one  hour,  and  the  colour  will 
be  done* 


63:/.  FOR  SjYUFF  BR0WA\ 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  eight  pounds 
of  f'lS'ick  chips,  boil  well,  and  add  .?  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  allum  ;  run  your  cloth  thirty  min- 


dyer's  companion,  43 

iites,  then  add  four  pounds  of  red-wood  chips  or 
tv/o  pounds  of  ground  camwood  ;  boil  \^dl,  and 
run  your  cloth  till  the  strength  is  well  out  of  the 
dye ;  then  add  one  gallon  of  sig,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  logwood,  and  an  ounce  of  verdigrease, 
prepared  as  in  receipt  4th  ;  boil  well,  run  your 
cloth  twenty  minutes,  then  add  two  ounces  of 
copperas,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleai^es. 


Giih.  FOR  SjVUFF  BROWX. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  eight  and  an 
half  pounds  of  fustick  chips,  four  pounds  of 
coarse  madder,  and  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of 
logwood  ;  boil  well  till  tht  strength  is  well  out 
of  the  dye-wood,  but  not  fast ;  or  the  madder 
may  be  omitte  d  till  the  strength  is  boiled  out  of 
the  logwood  and  fustick,  and  then  let  \x  simmer 
a  short  time  ;  then  add  six  ounces  of  allum,  run 
your  cloth  one  hour,  air,  and  run  igain,  till 
the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dye ;  then  rdd 
half  a  pound  of  copperas  to  sadden,  or  more  if 
it  is  not  dark  enough;  and  handle  till  your  co- 
lour  pleases.. 


65th,  FOR  BJT^JVIjYG  BROWJV. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  and  an 
half  pounds  of  fustick,  and  four  pounds  of  good 
logwood,  boil  well,  and  tl\en  add  one  and  an 
half  pounds  of  good  madder,  and  six  ounces  of 
allum  ;  let  it  simmer  half  an  hour,  then  run  your 
cloth  one  hour  ;  add  eight  or  ten  ounces  of  cop- 
peras, and  one  quart  of  lant,  then  run  and  han- 
dle till  your  colour  pleases. 


44 


DYER'S    COMPANION. 


If  you  wish  to  alter  the  shade  of  this  colour, 
you  may  add  five  or  six  pounds  of  logwood,  and 
less  fustick,  and  you  may  have  the  colour  to 
suit  your  fancy. 


66,V/.  I  OR  SLATE  BROXVjYr 

TO  twenty  y^rds  of  cloth,  take  one  bushel  of 
buttt^rnut  bark,  boil  well  and  run  your  cloth  one 
hour;  then  take  out  the  bark,  and  add  half  a 
pound  of  copperas ;  run  twenty  minutes,  air, 
and  run  again,  and  add  more  copperas  if  it  is  not 
d?^rk  enough ;  for  it  requires  to  be  very  dark^ 
When  dark  enough,  shift  your  copper,  scour 
clean,  and  rince  your  cloth  ;  fill  with  fair  water, 
ht  at  hot,  then  add  three  ounces  of  compound  or 
blueing ;  run  your  cloth  twenty  m/inntes,  air, 
and  if  your  colour  is  not  blue  enough,  add  a  lit- 
tle more  blueing  ;  and  if  it  is  not  dark  enough, 
and  the  colour  grows  lighter,  then  add  four  or 
six  ounces  of  logwood,  and  one  ounce  of  blue 
vitriol  \  and  handle  till  it  suits  j'our  fancy. 


df//;.  FOR  DOVE  OR  LEAD  BROWjW 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  half  a  peck  of 
(:hesnat  or  maple  bark,  and  two  ounces  of  log- 
wood, boil  well,  then  add  two  ounces  of  cop-^ 
peras,  and  alitrle  compound  or  blueing,  fsayhalf 
an  ounce)  and  stir  your  dye  well  together  ;  run 
your  cloth  twenty  minutes;  then  if  you  find 
your  colour  wants  altering,  it  may  be  done  by 
varying  dius  ; — If  it  is  not  dark  enough,  add  a 
little  more  copperas-— if  not  blue  enough,  add  a 
little  more  blueing — if  not  bright  enough,  add  a. 


DYER'S   COMPANION"*  45 

little  more  log\\  ood  ;  run  again,  and  if  it  requires 
nothing,  your  colour  will  be  finished.  Silk  may 
be  dyed  in  this. 


6S^//.  FOR  PEARL  OR  SILVER  GREY. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  four  quarts  of 
wheat  bran,  put  it  in  a  bag,  and  fill  your  copper 
with  fair  water,  and  boil  the  pudding  an  hour 
and  a  half;  then  take  it  out,  let  it  drain,  and 
squeeze  it  as  dry  as  you  can  ;  then  add  two 
ounces  of  allum,  let  it  boil,  and  skim  off  the 
scum  that  will  rise,  then  run  your  clodi  one  hour; 
add  four  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  put  them  in 
a  bag,  and  boil  \vell  till  the  strength  is  well  out, 
then  take  the  bag  of  logwood  out  of  the  dye,  if 
you  do  not,  it  will  spot  the  cloth  ;  run  your  cloth 
thirty  minutes,  then  add  half  an  ounce  of  blue 
vitriol,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 

It  requires  care  with  this  colour,  as  well  as  all 
other  light  colours,  that  you  do  not  let  the  ck)th 
touch  any  thing  that  will  spot  it,  for  there  is  not 
much,  if  any,  remedy  for  a  light  colour  when 
spotted ;  and  all  light  colours  shouM  be  dried 
with  the  backside  to  the  sun  ;  for  the  sun  is  apt 
to  injure  the  colour. 


69!h.  FOR  LIGHT  BROWM 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  half  a  peck  of 
hemlock  bark,  with  the  moss  taken  oiR  and  two 
-ounces  of  logwood  chips,  boii  well,  run  your 
cloth  twenty  mifmres,  then  add  two  ounces  of 
copperas,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases, 
£2 


4ft  BYEr's    COMPANIOif; 

70///.  /'Oi?  ASH  BROW.y. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  three  quarts 
of  white  ash  bark,  three  ounces  of  logwood  chips, 
boil  well,  run  your  cloth  twenty  minutes  :  ttien 
add  three  ounces  of  copperas,  and  handle  till 
youT' colour  pleases. 


rur.  FOR  DRAB  BROWM 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  a  half  peck  of 
chesnut  or  muple  bark,  green  or  dry,  two  pounds 
of  fustick  chips,  and  two  ounces  of  logwood 
chips  :  boil  well,  then  add  one  ounce  of  com^. 
pound  of  blueing,  run  your  cloth  twenty  min- 
Htes  :  then  add  two  ounces  of  copperas,  and 
liandle  till  your,  colour  pleases. 


7.2d.  FOR  DRAR. 

TAKE  chesnut,  black  birch,  and  yellow  oak' 
bark,  half  a  peck  of  each,  boil  well,  run  your 
cloth,  then  add  three  ounces  of  copperas;  and 
handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


7 2d.  FOR  DRAB. 

TAKE  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  nutgnl/s', 
made  fine,  then  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fustick, 
boil  w  ell,  run  your  cloth  ;  then  add  half  an  ounce 
of  blue  vitriol,  tw^o  ounces  of  copperas ;  run 
your  cloth  fiftt  en  minutes,  then  add  half  a  gill  of 
oil  of  vitriol  and  one  ounce  of  blueing,  and  stb 


JDYER^S  GOMpANIOIf.  45f 

it  well  with  the  dye,  run  your  cloth,  and  handle 
till  your  colour  suits. 


7Mi.  FOR  DRAB, 

TAKE  six  ounces  of  nutgalls,  pulverized^ 
three  ounces  of  the  flour  of  brimstone,  four 
ounces  of  allum — put  them  in  fair  water,  run 
your  cloth  one  hour  ;  then  sadden  with  black 
float,  and  handle  till  your  colour  suits. 


75th,  FOR  DRAB. 

TAKE  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  fustick,  one 
pound  of  logwood,  one  quart  of  rotten  wood  of 
oak,  boil  w^ell,  then  add  one  half  pound  of  mad- 
der, and  four  ounces  of  alkim,  boil,  run  your 
cloth  twenty  minutes  ;  then  add  three  ounces  of 
copperas  and  one  quart  of  sig,  and  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases. 


76///.  FOR  DRAB. 


TAKE  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  fusticfe 
chips,  six  ounces  of  logwood,  boil  well;  then 
add  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ahum,  run  your 
cloth  thirty  minutes  ;  then  add  three  ounces  of 
copperaSj  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


"jrtk,  FOR  FOREST  CLOTH. 

TAKE  two  pounds  of  fustick  chips,  hi^ 


48  DYER^S    COMPANION. 

ounces  of  logwood,  boil  well,  then  add  seven 
ounces  of  chymick,  run  your  cloth  twenty  min- 
utes ;  then  add  three  ounces  of  good  madder, 
two  ounces  of  red  tartar,  made  fine — let  it  sim- 
mer  fifteen  minutes,  and  run  your  cloth  twenty 
minutes  :  then  add  one  gallon  of  sig,  or  lant,  and 
three  ounces  of  copperas,  and  handle  till  your 
colour  pleases. 


TSth.  FOR  LIFER  JDRJB. 

TAKE  one  pound  of  fustick  chips,  three 
pounds  of  rotten  wood  of  oak,  three  ounces  of 
barwood,  t\vo  ounces  of  logwood  cliips,  one 
pound  of  madder,  boil  well,  runyour  cloth  twen- 
ty  minutes  ;  then  add  six  ounces  of  filings  of  iron, 
boil  well,  run  your  cloth  fifteen  miimtes  :  then 
add  six  ounct;s  of  logwood,  and  five  ounces  of 
€opperas,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases* 


79th.  FOR  LIGHT  LIVER  DRAB. 

TAKE  two  ounces  of  blue  galls,  one  ounce 
of  logwood,  two  ounces  of  allum,  one  ounce  of 
cream  of  tartar,  and  two  ounces  of  madder  :  run 
your  cloth  fifteen  minutes,  then  add  one  ounce 
ef  copperas,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


tOth.  FOR  A  MADDER  DRAB. 

TAKE  three  pounds  oi  good  madder,  one 
pound  of  fustick,  let  it  simmer  one  hrair  ;  then 
add  two  ounces  of  allum,  run  your  cloth  half  an 


hour  ;  then  add  one  pound  six  ounces  of  inlngs* 
of  iron,  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  ;  then  add  thrta 
ounces  of  logwood,  and  handle  till  your  coiour 
pleases. 


816/.  JFGR  A  GREE.V  JDRAB. 

TAKE  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  fusticb^ 
one  quarter  of  a  pound  ofloguood  chips,  boil 
well,  then  addhalf  a  pound  of  alluin,  two  ounces 
of  blueing  :  mix  it  well  with  the  dye,  run  your 
cloth,  thirty  minutes  ;  then  add  one  ounce  of 
copperas,  and  handle  till  your  colour  suits 
your  fancy. 


82c/.  FOR  A  REDDISH  DRAB. 

TAKE  three  ounces  of  allum,  half  a  pouni 
of  fustick,  six  ounces  of  logwood  chips,  two 
ounces  of  madder,addtwo  ounces  of  camwood, 
one  and  an  half  pints  of  rotten  wood  of  oak  ;  boil 
well  half  an  hour,  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  air, 
sadden  with  three  ounces  of  copperas  :  and, 
handle,  till  your  colour  pleases. 


83?/.  FOR  REDDISH  DRAB. 

TAKE  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  fustick, 
boil  well;  then  add  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
allum,  run  your  cloth  boiling,  one  hour,  then 
air  and  rince  and  shift  the  liquor  from  your  cop- 
per, fill  with  fair  water  ;  then  add  three  and  an 
half  pounds  of  good  madder,  two  ounces  of  cam- 
wood,  let  it  simmer,  fifteen  minutes  ;  then  run 


50  dyer's  companiok. 

your  cloth  twenty  minutes,  then  add  two  ounces 
of  filings  of  iron,  and  handle  till  your  colour 
pleases* 


84^//.  FOR   LIGHT  DRAB. 

TAKE  five  ounces  of  fustick  chips,  two 
.ounces  of  good  niaddtr,two  ounces  ofallum,  boil 
well,  run  your  cloth  twenty  minutes  ;  thei^  ^u^d- 
den  with  two  ounces  of  copperas,  and  handle 
till  your  colour  pleases. 


85r/^  FOR  YELLOW  DRAB. 

TAKE  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  fustick, 
two  ounces  of  madder,  two  ounces  of  logwood, 
boil  well;  then  add  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
allum,  run  your  cloth  one  hour;  then  sadden 
with  two  ounces  of  copperas,  and  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases. 


htth.     FOR  A   DARK  YELLOW  DRAB. 

TAKE  two  pound  of  fustick  chips,  five 
ounces  of  logwood  chips,  boil  well,  then  add 
five  ounces  of  madder  and  one  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  allum,  run  your  cloth  thirty  minutes, 
then  add  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  copperas,  and 
handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


sm.     FOR  A  FOREST  BROWjV. 
TAKE  six  pounds  of  fustick  chips,  boil  well : 


dyer's  companion.  si 

then  add  two  ounces  ofallum,  run  your  cloth 
fifteen  minutes;  then  add  two  and  an  half  pounds 
of  logwood,  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  thirty  min- 
utes, then  sadden  till  your  colour  suits,  with  six 
ounces  of  copperas. 


tSth.     FOR  .4  DARK  FOREST  BROWN. 

Tx\KE  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  logwood, 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  red  argal,  and  three 
quartersof  apound  of  allimi,  boil  well,  run  your 
cloth  one  hour,  boiling  ;  then  add  four  pounds 
of  good  fustick  chips,  boil  welL  run  your  cloth 
half  an  hour,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases^ 


89^A.     FOR  PARIS  MUB 

TAKE  your  cloth,  and  dye  it  a  bright  lively 
blue,  but  not  deep  ;  then  rince  your  cloth,  and 
fill  your  copper  with  fair  water  ;  then  add  six 
pounds  of  stone  rag,  or  the  moss  of  stone,  boil 
w^U,  run  your  cloth  one  hour  ;  then  add  two 
ounces  of  copperas,  and  one  quart  of  sig,  and 
handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


%Oth.  FOR  A  RAVEN  COLOUR. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  two  quarts 
of  wheat  bran,  wet  w^ith  vinegar  ;  let  it  stand 
tvvo  days  and  sour,  then  fill  your  copper  with 
fair  water,  put  the  bran  into  a  b.  g,  boil  well 
one  hour;  then  take  out  the  bag  and  let  it 
drain,  then  add  one  pound  of  madder  and  on€ 


so  dyer's  compa>^iok. 

pound  of  allam  ;  run  your  cloth  one  and  an 
half  hours,  boiling:  then  air  and  fold  it  up 
smooth,  and  wrap  it  up  close,  and  let  it  lie  twen- 
ty-four hours  ;  then  rince,  and  shift  the  liquor 
from  your  copper,  fill  with  fair  water,  then  add 
eight  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  boil  u^ell  till  the 
strength  is  well  out ;  then  run  your  cloth  one 
hour ;  then,  if  you  find  it  necessary,  add  more 
logwood — 'if  not,  then  add  one  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  copperas,  and  one  gallon  of  lant,  and 
handle  till  j'our  colour  pleases. 

If  your  colour  is  not  dark  enough,  you  may 
use  a  little  ashes,  put  with  sig ;  and  take  the  lie 
and  put  in  the  dye,  with  a  little  copperas,  and 
run  again. — Lie  and  sig  has  the  same  effect, 
and  potash  or  pearlash. 


^Ut.  FOR  CROW,  WITH  COPPERAS, 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  and  an 
half  pounds  of  copperas,  fill  your  copper  with 
water,  heat  boiling  hot ;  then  run  your  cloth 
twenty  minutes,  air,  and  run  again  as  before, 
then  air  and  rince  your  cloth,  shift  the  liquor 
from  your  copper,  and  rince,  fill  with  fair  water, 
heat,  and  add  four  pounds  of  logwood  chips, 
boil  well,  run  your  cloth  half  an  hour,  then  air 
and  run  again  as  bef  >re ;  then,  if  your  colour  is 
not  dark  enough,  add  one  ounce  of  blue  vitriol, 
run  again,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


^2rf.  FOR  CROW,   WITH  BLUEING 
COMPOUND. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth — fill  your  copper 


^'itli  fair  water,  heat  boiling  hot,  tlien  add  one 
pound  of  blueing,  (made  as  in  receipt  No.  6,  fcpr 
Prussian  blue)  add  this  at  twice  or  three  times, 
run  your  cloth  twenty  minutes  at  a  time,  air  and 
stir  the  blueing  well  with  the  dye,  before  the 
cloth  is  dipped  in  the  dye ;  then  add  two  pounds 
of  logwood  chips,  boil  well,  then  add  one  quar* 
ter  of  a  pound  of  verdigrease  pulverized  and  dis- 
solved in  vinegar,  as  in  receipt  No.  4 ;  then  run 
your  cloth  haff  an  hour,  then  add  half  a  pound 
of  copperas,  run  again,  air,  and  if  it  is  not  dark 
enough,  add  more  copperas,  and  handle  till  youi? 
colour  suits  your  fancy. 


93^.  jFOR  crow,  with  blue  VITRIOL.^ 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth  — Fill  your  coppef 
with  water,  heat  scalding  hot,  take  half  a  pound 
of  blue  vitriol,  let  it  dissolve,  run  your  cloth  for- 
ty minutes,  in  two  parts  :  then  add  five  poundsr 
of  logwood  chips,  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  thir- 
ty minutes,  air  and  run  again,  and  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases. 


34^th.    FOR  BLACK. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth — Fill  your  copper 
tVith  water,  heat,  and  add  three  pounds  of  cop- 
peras ;  heat  near  boiling,  run  your  cloth  one 
hour,  then  air  and  run  again,  boiling  the  time 
as  before  :  air  and  rince,  and  shift  the  liquor 
from  your  copper  (rince  your  copper  clean)  and 
fill  with  water,  and  add  six  pounds  of  logwood 
chips,  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  thirty  or  forty 
minutes,  let  it  boil  again  fifteen  or  twenty  min-. 
M\^,  then  run  again  as  hdbre;  then    acW- 


54  I>YER*S  COMPANIO>r# 

one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  blue  vitriol,  run  your 
cloth,  boiling,  three  quarters  of  an  hour;  then, 
if  it  is  not  black  enough,  run  again,  and  hmidle 
till  your  colour  pleases. 

This  is  the  best  form  to  dye  a  black,  I  think, 
in  the  world ;  it  is  equal  to  any  for  brightness, 
and  without  the  least  danger  of  rotting  the  cloth; 
and  the  colour  is  lasting  and  permanent  as  a 
blue  or  scarlet. 

It  is  necessary  to  cleanse  the  colour  or  dye 
stuff  well  out  of  the  cloth,  immediately.  First 
rince  in  fair  water,  then  take  a  tub  of  warm  wa- 
ter,  sufficient  to  handle,  and  wet  the  before-men- 
tioned quantity  of  cloth  ;  then  add  half  a  pint 
of  the  liquor  of  beef  galk,  mix  it  well  with  the 
warm  water,  then  handle  your  cloth  in  this  till 
it  is  well  wet,  then  rince  in  water  till  it  is  clean. 
This  is  a  sure  remedy  against  crocking.  The 
beef  gall  may  be  used  in  all  cloths,  in  this  man- 
ner, that  are  liable  to  crock  ;  and  it  will  prevent 
their  crocking,  without  the  least  danger  of  injur^ 
ing  the  colour. 


55/A.  JPOR  BLACK. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  three  pounds 
of  logwood  chips,  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  su- 
mac,  of  one  season's  growth,  cut  and  dried : 
boil  well,  run  your  cloth  half  an  hour,  then  add 
one  ounce  of  blue  vitriol,  one  quarter  of  a  pound, 
of  nutgalls,  pulverized,  boil  well,  run  your  cloth 
fifteen  minutes  :  then  add  one  ounce  of  verdi- 
grease,  pulverized  and  dissolved  in  sig  or  vine- 
gar, as  described  in  receipt  No.  4 :  run  your 
cloth  fifteen  minutes,  then  add  one  pound  of 
copperas,  handle,  and  if  it  is  not  black,  then  add 
more  copperas;  and  handle  till  your  colour 
pleases. 


dyer's  companion^.  35 

96th.  FOR  BLACK. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  six  pounds  of 
logwood  chips,  one  pound  of  dry  alder  bark 
one  and  an  half  pounds  of  sumac,  of  one,  sea- 
son's growth,  well  cured  and  dried,  one  quarter 
of  apoundof  fustick,boil  wellonehour,  thenrun 
your  cloth  one  hour,  air  and  run  again  as  before ; 
then  air,  add  one  gallon  of  sig,  and  one  and  an  half 
pounds  of  copperas,  run  your  cloth  twenty  min- 
utes ;  then  if  it  is  not  JDlack,  add  more  copperas, 
and  if  it  is  attended  with  a  rusty  brown,  add  two 
pounds  of  common  good  brown  ashes,  run  your 
cloth,  and  handle  till  the  strength  is  well  out  of 
the  dye. 

Then,  if  it  is  not  black,  shift  your  liquor  from 
your  copper,  scour  clean,  rince  your  cloth,  fill 
your  copper  with  fair  water,  then  add  one  pound 
of  logwood  chips,  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  al- 
der bark  and  half  a  pound  of  argal ;  then  boil 
well,  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  sadden  with 
copperas,  what  is  necessary,  and  handle.  But 
if  it  continues  of  a  rusty  cast,  which  logwood 
causes,  add  one  gallon  of  sig,  or  more  ashes, 
that  which  is  most  convenient,  and  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases. 

N.  B.  Silk  may  be  dyed  in  this  dye.  It  is 
necessary  to  take  the  same  method  in  cleansing 
as  in  receipt  No.  94,  and  all  other  dark  colours 
that  are  liable  to  crock,  &c. 


^7th.  FOR  BLACK. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  three  quarters 
of  a  pound  of  blue  vitriol,  add  to  fair  water,  boil 
well,  run  your  cloth  three  quarters  of  an  hour ; 
then  add  six  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  and  one 


56  j)!?er's  com^akio-^ 

pound  of  fustick  chips,  boil  one  hour,  nm  yoQy 
cloth  one  hour,  then  add  two  ounces  of  verdi- 
grease,  pulverized  and  dissolved  in  vinegar,  as 
before  described,  and  one  gallon  of  sig,  run  y oup 
doth  twenty  minutes  ;  then  add  one  pound  q|' 
copperas,  and  handle  with  the  dye  boiling,  till 
your  colour  pleases. 


98///.  FOR  BLACK. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  bushel  of 
butternut  or  chesnut  bark,  or  both  mixed  to- 
gether: boil  tin  the  strength  is  well  out,  theff 
run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  sadden  \yith  cop- 
peras till  it  is  quite  dark  ;  then  air  and  rince,  and 
shift  your  copper,  fill  with  fair  water ;  then  add 
four  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  half  a  pound  of 
fustick  chips,  boil  well  till  the  strength  is  well 
out,  then  run  your  cloth  one  hour ;  air,  and  if  it 
is  not  black,  or  near  a  black,  run  again ;  then 
add  one  pound  of  copperas,  and  one  gallon  of* 
sig ;  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  boiling,  and  han>= 
die  till  your  colour  suits  your  fancy^ 


The  preceding  Receipts  are  calculated  for 
twenty  yards  of  fulled  cloth ;  but  thin  cloth  may 
be  dyed  as  well  as  thick,  and  all  kinds  of  woollen 
^oods,  as  yarn,  wool,  &c.  Silks  may  be  dyed 
in  most  of  the  dyes  before  mentioned  ;  but  the 
dye  requires  to  be  stronger  for  silk  than  for 
woollen.  Those  dyes  that  will  not  answer  for 
silk,  I  shall  mention  hereafter. 


I  S7  3 

RECEIPTS 

FOR  COTTON  AND  LINEN, 

COLD  AND  HOT. 

99///,  BLUE — FOR  Cor-roN,  LineN)  YarNj  ifc, 

TO  a  tub  that  will  hold  thirty-six  pails  of 
water,  take  twelve  pounds  of  stone-lime, 
slack  it,  put  it  in,  stir  it  ten  or  twelve  minutes ; 
then  add  six  pounds  of  copperas,  dissolved  with 
hot  water,  stir  it  as  before ;  then  add  six  pounds 
of  indigo,  ground  line,  stir  it  incessantly  two 
hours  ;  for  three  days,  stir  it  three  or  four  times 
in  a  day,  then  let  it  stand  fifteen  or  twenty  hours 
before  the  yarn  is  put  in,  lay  sticks  across  the 
tub,  to  hang  the  yarn  on,  that  it  may  not  reach. 
the  bottom ;  move  the  jarn  round  every  fifteen 
minutes.  Six  hours  is  sufficient  for  the  first  co- 
louring of  the  dye  ;  as  the  dye  grows  weaker, 
longer  time  is  required  :  rince  and  dry  it  in  the 
shade. . 

When  the  dye  is  reduced,  then  recruit  in  man- 
ner and  form  as  in  setting,  only  when  there  is  a 
great  quantity  of  sediment  at  the  bottom,  then 
the  dye  must  be  dipped  off,  leaving  the  sedi- 
ment  in  the  bottom  ;  then  throw  away  the  sedi- 
ment, shift  the  dye  back,  arid  if  the  tub  is  not 
full  enough,  then  add  more  water,  (rain  water  is 
required  in  this  dye  in  setting  and  recruiting). 
The  dye  must  not  be  worked  at  too  soon  after 
recruiting,  or  sitting,  and  it  must  not  be  crowd- 
ed  too  full  in  colouring,  but  judgment  must  be 
used  by  the  dyer,  &c. 

F  2 


58  dyer's  companion'. 

100^/;.  BLUE— FOR  COTTON  AND  LINEN 
COLD. 

TO  set  a  tub  of  twelve  gallons,  take  ten  gal- 
lons of  good  sig,  to  which  add  three  gills  of  spi- 
rits,  one  pound  of  good  indigo,  three  ounces  of 
pearlash,  a  quarter  of  a'  pound  of  good  mad- 
der, and  a  pint  of  wheat  bran  ;  put  the  indigo  in 
a  bag,  and  rub  it  in  the  dye  till  the  indigo  is  dis- 
solved, and  stir  the  dye  well  together  with  the 
ingredients ;  let  it  stand  twelve  hours  covered 
close  and  kept  warm,  and  manage  it  in  the  man- 
ner and  form  as  in  receipt  No.  2,  till  the  dye 
comes  to  work.  After  tlie  dye  has  come  to 
work,  wet  the  yarn  in  hot  water,  with  a  little 
pearlash  in  it ;.  let  it  cool,  then  put  it  in  the  dye 
loose ;  ^  let  it  lie  in  the  dye  twelve  hours*  then 
■wring  it  out  and  let  it  air  ;  and  if  it  is  not  dark 
enough,  then  put  it  in  again-  There  ought  to 
be  something  at  the  bottom  to  keep  the  yarn  off 
of  the  sediment. 

^  There  may  be  a  saving  in  colouring  cotton  or 
linen,  by  first  colouring  brown  or  purple,  as  I 
shall  hereafter  mention.  Silk  may  be  dye-d  in 
this  dye,  but  not  in  the  blue  vat. 


\OUt.  BLUE— FOR  COTTOX  AND  LINEN- 
HOT. 

HEAT  water  sufficient  for  your  yam,  say  for 
five  pounds  of  cotton  or  linen  yarn,  take  five 
ounces  of  blue  vitriol,  run  your  yarn  or  let  it  lie 
in  the  dye  one  hour,  then  add  three  pounds  of 
good  logwood  chips,  boil  well,  and  put  in  the 
yarn ;  let  it  lie  one  hour,  then  air  and  add  two 
Gunct:'s  of  pearlash,  let  it  lie  thirty  minutes;, 
^en^  if  it  is  not  dark  enough,  add  a  little  blue 


DYER^S   COMPANIO^r.  59 

vitriol ;  put  it  in  again,  and  you  will  have  a  good^ 
looking  blue,  but  it  will  not  be  so  lasting  a  co- 
lour as  tlie  two  forms  before  mentioned. 


102f/.    To  take  the  Colouf  out  of  Silk ^  Cotton^  or  Linen^ 
tvhen  sfiotted  or  another  colour  is  ivi&hed.-^Mot, 

TO  one  barrel  of  hot  water,  take  half  a  gill  of 
f)il  of  vitriol,  put  in  the  goods  ;  run  them  fifteen 
minutes,  air  and  rince  them  in  fair  water  inmie- 
diately,  lest  it  should  endanger  the  goods.^ 

I  have  reduced  black  Avithout  injuring  it^  and 
made  a  yellow  of  it  in  this  form. 


103J.  POR  GREEJV  OJ\r  SILK^JI0  7\ 

TAKE  two  pounds  of  fustick,  boil  well,  tii^ 
the  strength  is  well  out,  then  take  out  the  chips^ 
and  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  allum,  and  six 
ounces  of  blueing,  prepared  as  in  receipt  No.  6  s 
stir  it  with  the  dye  till  it  is  well  rnixed,  then 
handle  your  silk  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  :  stir 
it  lively,  and  keep  it  open  and  loose  in  the  dye  ; 
(silk  should  never  be  wenched  as  woollen  goods) 
air,  and  if  not  derp  enough,  add  a  little  more  blue- 
ing ;  and  if  not  yellow  enough,  then  a  little  allum , 
run  again  fifteen  minutes  ;  then  air,  and  if  the 
colour  suits,  rince  immediately.  The  dye  ought 
to  be  so  fixed  as  to  colour  quick,  and  there  must 
not  be  a  great  quantity  coloured  at  once  in  a 
dye  :  for  the  dye  will- get  too  strong  with  the 
vitriol,  which  will  endanger  the  silk  ;  but  with 
proper  care  it  may  be  coloured  without  any 
danger. 


CO  3>rER's   COMPANION. 

I04th.  GREEM"  OJf  COTTON  OR  LIJ^EM^HOT. 

TO  set  a  dye,  take  two  pounds  of  logwood, 
and  one  pound  of  fustick  chips,  boil  well,  then 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  allum,  and  run 
your  goods  one  hour ;  then  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  blue  vitriol,  run  your  goods  thirty 
minutes,  then  add  two  ounces  of  pearlash  ;  run 
again,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


10 jth.    YELLOW  OJ^  COTTOJV"  AKD  LINEJ^.^ 
HOT. 

TAKE  two  pounds  of  the  leaves  or  peelings 
of  onions  that  are  clean  and  clear  from  dirt  ;  put 
them  in  fair  water,  boil  well,  then  add  half  a 
pound  of  allum,  run  your  goods  one  hour,  and 
you  will  have  a  good  colour. 


\06th.  ORANGE    COLOUR    OJV  COTTOJST  AJYH 
LIJVEJV. 

TAKE  two  pounds  of  eopperas,  dissolve  it 
in  hot  water,  and  have  the  liquor  very  strong  ; 
let  it  stand  till  nearly  cold,  run  your  goods  one 
hour,  then  dip  it  in  good  lye,  handle  till  perfect- 
ly wet ;  then  let  it  drain,  and  hang  it  in  the  sun 
fifteen  minutes,  and  the  sun  will  turn  the  colour ;  . 
continue  to  manage  in  this  manner,  dipping  it 
in  the  dye  and  hanging  it  in  the  sun,  till  dark 
enough. 


lOrth.  FLESH-COLOUR  OK COTTOJ^  AJ^D  LIJV^ 
EJ^\—HOT. 

TAKE  one  and  an  half  bushels  of  black-birch 


byer's  companion.  .61 

Bark,  and  half  a  bushel  of  hemlock  bark  boil 
well ;  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  allun>, 
and  two  ounces  of  pearlash  ;  run  your  cloth  op 
goods  till  your  colour  pleases. 


108/^-  BED  OMCOTTOJSrOE  LLYEM—COLJO. 

TAKE  six  pounds  of  Nicaragua  chips,  boil 
them  till  the  strength  is  well  out ;  then  add  half 
a  pound  of  allum,  and  let  it  stand  till  cold  ;  run 
your  cloth  or  yarn  in  hot  water,  with  a  little 
pearlash  in  it ;  tlien  air,  and  put  it  in  the  dye) 
frequently  handling  over  till  the  colour  suits. 


I09th.  eOTTOJ^JJ^^D  LINE^ REDISH BROVVl!£. 
HOT. 

TAKE  butternut,  sassafras,  black  alder,  and 
hemlock  bark,  a  bushel  of  each  ;  boil  well,  run 
yourgoods  one  hour,  then  add  two  pailfuUs  of  lie, 
or  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pearlash;  run  youF 
cloth  or  goods,  and  handle  till  your  colonic 
pleases. 


IJO///.  FOR  PLUMB-COLOUR  ORPURPLEyON 
SILKS HOT. 

TAKE  six  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  and 
three  pounds  of  redwood  chips,  boil  well  till  the 
strength  is  well  out  of  the  chips  ;  then  add  one 
pound  of  allum,  and  run  your  goods  one  hour  ; 
then  add  one  ounce  of  verdigrease,  made  fine 
dnd  dissolved  in  sig,  described  before,  and  add 


62  dyer's  compaxiox. 

one  gallon  of  sig ;  run  your  goods  thirty  or  for* 
ty  minutes,  and  if  your  colour  is  not  dark  enough^ 
then  add  a  little  blue  vitriol,  and  handle  till  your 
colour  pleases* 


I  nth.   PhRPLE    O.r   COTTOJV  OR   LIA^E.V.^ 
COLD. 

TAKE  three  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  boil 
well,  till  the  strength  is  well  out  and  the  dye  very 
strong,  (for  all  cotton  dyes  require  to  be  strong;) 
then  add  half  a  pound  of  allum,  and  one  ounce 
of  pearlash  ;  let  it  stand  and  get  cold,  dip  your 
goods  into  hot  water,  air,  and  put  them  into  the 
dye  loose,  handle  over  once  in  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes  ;  let  them  lie  in  the  dye  in  this  manner 
till  the  colour  suits.  It  must  be  observed  in 
dying  cottons  and  linens  in  cold  dyes,  that  the 
air  and  sun  are  very  necessary  to  brighten  and 
strike  the  colour  in.  Let  the  goods  lie  in  the 
air  and  sun,  three  or  four  times  in  the  course  of 
your  colouring,  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  at  a 
time.  The  preparation  is  suitable  for  blue,  as 
mentioned  in  receipt  99th. 


1 1  ^th.     BRO  WN  O A*  CO  TTOA'JjYD 
LIA'EM,^C0LD. 

TAKE  of  maple  or  white  oak  bark,  one 
bushel,  boil  well  till  the  strength  is  well  out, 
then  take  the  bark  out,  and  have  dye  sufficient 
to  wet  the  goods  ;  then  add  one  pound  of  cop- 
peras, let  it  stand  till  nearly  cold  ;  run  your 
goods  in  hot  water  with  a  little  pearlash  first ; 
then  put  it  in  the  dye,  and  handle  over  once  in 


dyer's  C0JMPANI02>.  63^ 

ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  and  air,  as  described  be- 
fore in  receipt  110th  ;  and  handle  in  this  manner 
till  the  colour  suits  ;  then  rince  clean.  This  is  the 
brown  mentioned  in  receipt  99th,  for  a  saving 
in  blue  ;  but  I  prefer  the  purple  ;  but  when  co- 
loured blue,  after  it  is  dry,  it  is  necessary  to 
scald  it  in  salt  and  water,  to  bind  the  colour- 


USt/i.  DOVE  ON LEAD'COLOUR,  ON  COTTON 
OR  LINEN^COLD. 

TAKE  one  pound  of  nutgalls  pulverized, 
boil  in  water  one  hour,  then  add  two  pounds  of 
copperas ;  let  it  stand  till  cold,  and  have  liquor 
enough  to  wet  the  goods ;  (it  requires  to  be 
very  strong)  put  j^our  goods  in  the  liquor,  and 
handle  once  in  five  or  six  minutes,  wring  and 
air  once  in  half  an  hour ;  dip  in  this  manner 
liiree  hours,  then  rince.  This  liquor  ought  to 
be  put  in  a  tub,  and  another  liquor  prepared 
in  another  tub,  in  this  manner,  viz. — take  six 
pounds  of  sumac,  of  one  year's  growth,  cut 
and  well  dried  with  the  leaves  all  on,  in  the 
summer  season,  and  three  pounds  of  logwood 
chips,  boil  well  till  the  strength  is  well  out,  then 
shift  it  in  the  tub,  and  let  it  s^nd  till  cold  ;  then 
run  your  goods  in  the  same  manner  as  before 
described,  handle  in  this  two  hours  ;  if  the  co- 
lour is  not  then  dark  enough,  run  again  in  the 
copperas  and  galls  liquor,  then  rince  and  run 
in  the  logwood  again,  and  handle  in  this  manner 
till  your  colour  suits. 

N.  B.  Cotton  and  linen,  when  dyed  in  cold 
dyes,  must  always  be  wet  and  run  in  hot  water 
half  an  hour,  and  then  aired  ;  and  a  little  pearl- 
ash  is  g(Jod  in  the  water,  to  cleanse  the  goods 
for  colouring,  &c. 


64  dyer's  coi^itanion. 

Cold  dyes  will  remain  good  always  if  properly 
-]f€craited. 


\im.    OLIF£  ON  COTTON AA'D  LIJ^i^\ 
COLD. 

TAKE  one  pound  of  nutgalls  pulverized,  put 
them  in  water,  boil  one  hour,  then  put  it  in  a 
tub,  then  add  two  pounds  of  copperas,  have  the 
liquor  strong,  and  enough  of  it  to  wet  and  cover 
the  goods;  then  dip  in  the  hot  water;  then 
stir  the  galls  and  copperas  together,  then  put  in 
your  goods  and  handle  over  once  in  five  min- 
utes, that  no  part  shall  be  confined,  wring  and 
air  every  half  hour  ;  handle  in  this  liquor  two 
hours,  then  rince,  then  add  three  pounds  of  fus- 
tick  and  one  pound  of  logwood  chips,  boil  well 
till  the  strength  is  well  .out;  then  add  five  ounces 
of  good  madder,  and  two  ounces  of  allum ;  let 
it  simmer  a  few  minutes,  then  shift  the  liquor  into 
a  tub,  and  let  it  stand  till  cold  ;  then  handl 
j^our  goods  in  the  first  liquor  two  or  three  houis 
till  the  colour  is  well  raised  ;  and  if  it  is  not  dark 
enough,  then  take  two  pounds  of  fustick,  and 
one  pound  of  logwood,  boil  well ;  let  it  cool,  and 
sadden  with  copperas  as  much  as  is  necessary^ 
and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


WSlh.  OLIVE  OJ^  SILK,  COTTON^OJl 

LiJVEJsr.—noT. 

TAKE  five  pounds  of  fustick,  and  'two 
pounds  of  logwood  chips,  boil  well ;  then  add  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  blue  vitriol,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  allum,  run  your  goods  one  hour ; 
then  add  one  pound  of  copperas,  and  handle  idBI 


fitER's    eCTVfPAJ^IOl?.  65 

fbut  colour  pleases.    If  the  colour  is  not  dark 
enough,  you  may  add  more  copperas,  &c. 


neih.    LIGHT  OLIVE   ON  COTTOJ\r  AJ^D 
LIN EA'.^  HOT. 

TAKE  four  pounds  of  fustick  chips,  and 
half  a  pound  of  logwood  chips,  boil  well,  then 
add  tivo  ounces  of  allum,  and  one  ounce  of 
blue  vitriol ;  then  run  your  goods  till  the  strength 
is  well  out  of  the  dye  ;  then  sadden  with  cop- 
peras to  your  liking,  and  handle  till  your  colour 
pleases. 


117.7/.     SLATE  COLOUR  ON  COTTOJ^AAh 
LIJ^EM—HOT. 

TAKE  hot  water,  and  dissolve  one  pound  of 
copperas  ;  run  your  goods  forty  minutes,  then 
air  and  rince,  and  shift  your  liquor  from  your 
copper ;  fill  with  fair  water  ;  then  add  three 
pounds  of  logwood,  boil  well,  run  your  goods 
one  hour,  then  add  a  tiuarter  of  a  pound  of  blue 
vitriol,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


llSih.     BLACK     OjV    COTTON'  AXD    LLYEjV, 
—HOT. 

TAKE  four  pounds  of  good  logwood,  and 
two  pounds  of  fustick  chips,  boil  well;  then 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  blue  vitriol,  run 
your  cloth  one  hour,  or  till  the  strength  is  well 
out  of  the  dye,  then  sadden  with  two  pounds  of 
t3>pperas,  and  one  gallon  of  good  old  sig;  ruii 
O 


06  dyer's  companion, 

your  cloth,  and  if  it  is  not  black,  you  must  air 
and  rince,  and  shift  your  liquor  from  your  cop- 
per, and  set  another  dye  in  manner  and  form  as 
the  first,  and  handle  again,  and  depend  on  having 
an  excellent  black  at  last.  But  if  it  is  attended 
with  a  rusty  brownness,  you  may  put  in  one 
quart  of  brown  ashes,  or  two  ounces  of  pearl- 
ash,  and  handle  lively,  which  is  necessary  in  all 
hot  silk,  cotton,  and  linen  dyes. 


i  19//;.  BLACKOjY COTTOJ^jiJVD LIJ^EJ^—COLD. 

TAKE  one  pound  of  nutgalls  pulverized, 
boil  in  one  pail  full  of  water  one  hour,  then  add 
two  pounds  of  copperas,  shift  it  into  a  tub,  and 
add  water  sufficient  to  cover,  and  handle  your 
goods  very  strong ;  then  take  fair  water  and  fill 
your  copper,  add  four  pounds  of  logwood  chips, 
two  pounds  of  sumac  v/ell  dried,  of  one  season's 
growth,  and  one  pound  of  dry  alder  bark,  boil 
well  till  the  strength  is  well  out,  then  dip  offthe 
<Iye  into  a  tub,  the  chips  remaining  in  the  kettle ; 
let  it  stand  till  cold. 

The  dye  must  be  managed  in  this  manner  ;-— 
first  run  your  goods  in  hot  water,  with  a  little 
pearlash  in  it ;  run  in  this  half  an  hour,  then  aif 
and  lay  your  goods  into  the  copperas  and  galls  li- 
quor ;  handle  over  every  eight  or  ten  min- 
utes, and  air  every  half  hour  ;  handle  in  this  two 
hours,  then  rince  clean  and  lay  it  in  the  logwood 
liquor  ;  handle  as  in  the  other  three  hours,  then 
if  it  is  not  black,  put  water  in  the  copper  upon 
the  chips  ;  before  running  in  the  copper,  let  it 
steep  and  cool  again,  and  add  one  pound  of 
copperas  ;  run  in  this  one  hour  ;  but  if  it  has  a 
rusty  brown  appearance,  which  is  occasioned 
by  the  logwood,  then  add  two  ounces  of  pearL 


I 


dyer's  companion.  67 

ash,  or  brown  ashes  will  answer  if  you  have 
no  pearlash  ;  run  in  this  half  an  hour,  then  air 
Jind  rince  clean,  and  if  it  is  not  black,then  recruit 
the  liquors  and  make  them  stronger,  and  man^ 
age  as  before  in  the  first  preparation  ;  and  never 
fear  but  you  will  have  a  fine  black. 

After  you  have  rinced  clean,  to  keep  it  from 
crocking,  use  beef  galls,  as  mentioned  in  receipt 
No.  94. 


GEjVERJL  observjtio.ys. 

COTTON  and  linen  dye  is  the  best  cold  in 
general;  for  it  is  almost  impossible  with  me  to 
colour  cotton  and  linen  in  hot  dyes  without  spot- 
ting ;  for  the  cotton,  &c.  are  of  a  cold  deadly 
nature,  and  the  steam  ofthe  dye  has  a  bad  effect  on 
goods  of  this  kind.  All  kinds  of  cotton  and  lin- 
en  cloths,  yarn  and  thread,  may  be  coloured 
by  following  the  preceding  receipts  for  dying 
cotton  and  linen. 

In  the  receipts  for  dying  silk,  cotton  and  linen, 
I  have  not  specified  any  particular  quantity  of 
yards  or  weight.  There  is  so  much  chffcrence  in 
the  weight  of  goods  of  this  kind,  that  no  rule 
eould  be  given  in  yards  ;  and  no  certainty  can 
be  aiSxed  to  a  general  rule  of  weight,  be- 
cause of  the  difference  of  the  quality  of  the 
goods.  Silks  differ,  so  do  cottons  and  linens  ;  no 
regular  system  can  therefore  be  adc^pted.  The 
dyer  is  to  proportion  his  dyes  according  to  the 
receipts,  foiloAving  his  judgment  as  the  goods 
vary  ;  and  if  he  closely  pursues  the  directions 
for  proportion  and  management,  he  will  not  find 
a  single  receipt  that  will  not  answer  the  purpose 
designed.  I  shall  hereafter  speak  particularly 
of  the  powers  on  which  the  dyes  depend. 


68  dyer's  coifi^AKroN. 

X/JRectiOjYs  for  dressing  cloth, 

IN  dressing  cloth,  there  are  various  forms  in* 
use  with  almost  every  workman  in  the  busi- 
jiess ;  but  I  shall  only  point  out  the  way  M^hich 
I  conceive  to  be  the  best.  There  are  also  diflfer- 
ent  kinds  of  tools  and  utensils  made  use  of^^ 
"which  I  shall  leave  to  the  discretion  of  the  prac^ 
titioner. 

FOR  FULLIA'G  CLOTIT. 

CLOTH  to  be  fulled,  should  be  wet  witW 
fsoap  sufficient  to  cleanse  it  of  the  dirt  and  grease^ 
then  scoured  clean  and  dried  ;  then  burl  or  pick 
out  all  the  knots  and  specks  that  will  injure 
the  cloth  in  dressing  ;  then  wet  with  soap  so 
that  the  cloth  will  work  and  turn  lively  in  the 
mill.  Let  proper  attention  be  paid  to  handle  the 
cloths  from  the  mill,  so  as  to  keep  them 
smooth ;  and  be  cautious  not  to  let  them  grow 
together,  for  it  is  very  hurtful  to  the  cloth,  and 
detrimental  in  dressing.  The  fulling-mill  must  be 
tended  with  aire.  When  the  cloths  are  fulled 
sufficiently,  then  scour  clean  from  the  soap  : 
And  if  there  is  any  of  the  first  quality  to  be 
dressed,  then  card  lightly  over,  so  as  to  lay  and 
straighten  the  nap  ;  then  shear  this  nap  off;  then 
take  clothier's  jacks,  and  raise  a  nap  sufficient  to 
cover  the  thread  ;  then  shear  this  off  and  raise 
another  nap  with  teazles.  I  prefer  teazles  to 
any  thing  else  to  raise  a  nap  on  cloth  ;  they  are 
much  milder  and  softer  to  cloth  than  jacks ; 
but  where  they  cannot  be  had,  jacks  may  be 
substituted  in  their  place.  After,  raising  the 
third  nap,  then  colour  the  cloth  ;  cleanse  it  well 
from  the  dye,  and  lay  the  nap  straight  and  smooth 
out  of  warm  Avater  with  jacks  that  are  limber ; 


I 


dyer's  companion.  69 

then  dry,  keeping  the  nap  smooth  :  when  dry, 
first  shear  on  the  back-side,  then  shear  smooth 
and  even  on  the  face  side,  and  as  close  as  you 
can.  When  sheared,  burl  clean,  and  lay  the  nap 
with  a  sand- board  or  brick,  or  brush,  but  not 
with  a  jack  ;  some  erroneously  use  a  jack  ;  a 
jack  is  good  and  necessary  to  raise  a  nap,  but 
not  to  lay  it.  Lay  the  nap  smooth  with  the 
sand-board,  and  then  the  cloth  is  fit  for  the  press. 
Have  smooth  papers,  put  it  in  the  press,  let  the 
heat  of  the  plate  be  just  hissing  hot;  screw  it 
moderately  in  the  press,  for  the  beauty  of  most 
thick  cloths  is  destroyed  by  pressing  too  hard. 
The  beauty  of  thick  cloth  depends  on  dressing 
and  not  on  pressing ;  the  coarser  the  cloth  is,  the 
harder  it  requires  to  be  screwed  ;  all  thick  cloths 
are  not  dressed  alike,  but  according  to  quality, 
some  requiring  once  shearing,  some  twice,  and 
so  on,  to  the  number  of  times  mentioned  before  ; 
six  times  is  sufficient  for  the  first  quality,  man« 
aged  as  before  mentioned.  Some  fulled  cloths 
do  not  require  shearing,  which  are  dressed  with 
a  thick  nap,  sufficient  to  cover  the  thread  ;  this 
may  be  raised  with  common  wool  and  cotton 
cards  ;  this  kind  of  cloth  is  called  bear-skin  or 
coating.  Bear-skin  should  be  pressed  in  the  cold 
press,  never  in  the  hot-press.  Baize  or  flannels 
should  be  fulled  hghtly,  the  grease  and  dirt 
scoured  out  clean  ;  then,  if  it  is  to  be  coloured, 
dye  and  raise  a  nap  with  a  mild  easy  card  or 
jack  and  a  stuffed  board,  and  dry  smooth,  and 
press  in  a  cold  press  ;  but  if  it  is  to  remain  white, 
raise  a  nap  as  before,  and  dry  smooth  ;  then  have 
a  stove,  or  some  proper  tight  place,  with  con- 
veniences  to  hang  the  cloth  up  loose;  then,  to 
100  yards  of  flannel,  burn  one  pound  of  sulphur 
or  brimstone  under  the  cloths,  and  it  will  cleanse 
them  from  A]  -pecks  of  dirt,  and  leave  them  as 
white  as  need  be;  but  when  you  find  it  necessa- 
G2 


7©  dyer's    COMPAI^IOIf. 

ty,you  may  have  yon r  copper  cleaned  with  fair 
hot  water, with  a  little  compound  of  blueing  in 
it ;  run  your  cloth  in  this  a  few  minutes,  and 
dry  smooth  ;  put  in  clean  papers,  press  in  the 
cold  press,  &c.  Some,  when  they  stove  their 
cloth  with  sulphur,  wet  it  in  clean  soap  suds, 
;md  hang  the  cloth  or  goods  up  wet ;  but  I  pre- 
fer the  water  with  a  litde  blueing,  to  whiten  the 
cloth  before  stoving,  for  it  will  wear  handsomer^, 
and  will  not  grow  yellow  so  soon. 


FOR  THIK  CLOTHS. 

THIN  cloths  should  be  well  coloured,  cleans-^ 
ed  well  from  the  dye,  dried  smooth,  and  press- 
ed double  ;  thin  cloths  require  to  be  much  mois-. 
ter  than  thick  cloths ;  the  press  papers  should  be 
hard,  thin  and  smooth  ;  and  the  press  hotter 
than  for  thick  cloths.  It  must  be  screwed  very 
hard,  for  the  beauty  of  thin  cloth  is  in  the  gloss 
given  by  pressing.  The  heat  of  the  press  should 
be  kept  regular,  and  the  cloth  will  be  smooth^^ 
&c. 


TO  DRUSS  SILK  JJ^D  COTTOJ>f,\^'c. 

SILK  must  never  be  pressed,  but  cleaned 
well  from  the  dye-stuff,  then  dried  ;  then  dis- 
solve gum  Arabic  in  water,  wet  the  silk 
thoroughly  in  this,  Avring  and  squeeze  as  dry  a§ 
you  can,  so  as  it  shall  not  drip  :  then  strain  it 
out  smooth  every  way,  and  dry.  This  will  finish 
the  silk  dressing. 

Cottons.  Some  do  not  require  to  be  pressed^ 
as  velvets^  cordiu'oys,  and  similar  cloths  r  they 


7i 

require  only  to  have  the  nap  laid  when  wet ;  fus- 
tian  must  have  a  nap  raised  drjr  with  teazles, 
and  then  pressed.  Almost  all  kinds  of  cotton 
and  linen  cloths,  except  those  before  mentionedj 
such  as  nankeens,  jeans,  muslins,  &c.  require  to 
be  pressed  quite  hard  ;  not  as  hard  as  thin  wooL 
en  cloths,  but  harder  than  thick.  If  any  of  the 
goods  requires  to  be  glazed,  it  must  be  managed 
in  a  different  form,  instead  of  pressing  it  must 
be  calindered  ;  i.  e.  run  through  a  machine  with 
two  steel  rollers,  one  hot  and  the  other  cold,  and 
the  goods  rolled  between  them,  &c. 

N.  B.  Silk,  cotton  and  linen,  cloth  must  nevef 
be  put  in  the  fulling-mill  to  scour  ^t  any  time;> 
for  it  will  ruin  them. 


Obacrvaiiona  on  the  difference  o^  Coloursy  and  thefr 
defiendin^  fiowers,  with  directions  as  to  the  use  of 
Dye-stuffs^  and  their  fir ofier ties  and  effects. 

THE  five  Material  Colours  are  these,  Blue, 
Yellow,  Red,  Brown  and  Black  ;  the  three 
powers  are  these,  the  Alkali,  the  Acid,  and  Gor- 
rosive  ;  these  are  the  depending  powers  of  all 
colpjars  which  I  shall  endeavour  to  shew  in  each 
colour  in  course. 

First,  The  blue.  The  blue  with  indigo  de- 
pends on  the  power  of  the  alkali,  sig  or  urine  ; 
pearlash  and  potash  and  the  lie  of  lime  are 
^all  alkalies  :  so  it  evidently  appears  that  indigo, 
although  the  best  dye  drug  in  the  world,  (except 
cochineal)  is  of  no  effect  without  the  power  of 
the  alkali.  There  are  other  materials  used  with 
the  indigo,  but  are  of  no  other  use  than  to  sup. 
port  and  assist  the  indigo :  Woad  will  dye  a 
blue,  properly  prepared,  without  the  indigo,  and 
indigo  without  the  woad  ;  so  woad  serves  only  as 
an  assistant  to  the  indigo.    Woad  is  a  very  use . 


72  l>rER's    COMPANIOxV* 

fill  dye  drug  in  carrying  on  large  manufacto-i 
lies  ;  but  it  will  not  answer  any  useful  purpose 
in  our  small  bu:>iness.  Madder  is  a  strong  drug, 
serving  to  brighten  and  darken  the  blue,  which 
greatly  assists  the  indigo.  Wheat  bran  serves 
only  to  soften  the  water,  and  urine  or  sig  pre- 
pares the  dye  to  come  to  work  sooner  than  it 
otherwise  would.  Borax  is  an  alkali  which 
softens  all  parts,  and  causes  it  to  rest  easy,  and 
come  to  work  well  and  soon.  Blue  with  indigo 
is  C(^l()ured  vvith  drugs  altogether. 

Prussian  Blue  is  of  a  different  nature  ;  it  is 
dependant  on  the  power  of  the  acid,  which  I 
shall  describe  hereafter.  Blue  with  logwood  is 
of  a  different  nature  from  any  other  real  colour. 
I  think  this  is  possessed  of  all  the  powers  and 
xnixed  powers  ;  with  regard  to  logwood  I  have 
imbibed  an  idea  that  it  was  leading  and  allied 
to  a  blue,  I  have  tried  one  power  and  another, 
until  I  have  been  brought  to  this  conclusion. 
Madder  to  strengthen  the  logwood  ;  allum  is  an 
acid  that  raises  the  lustre  of  the  blue,  but  not 
sufficient  of  itself,  it  being  a  weak  acid;  verdi- 
grease  is  evidently  possessed  of  two  powers,  I 
think  ;  it  agn  es  with  the  acid  and  corrosive,  but 
is  most  powerful  as  a  corrosive-  Sig  is  a  weak  al- 
kali,  which  shows  that  the  powers  are  mixed  ;  it 
rouses  and  gives  lustre  to  the  logwood,  and 
makes  a  fine  blue.  Thus  we  find  the  three  pow- 
ers may  be  mixed  together  in  a  real  colour,  al- 
though much  averse  to  each  other.  Blue  vitriol 
is  possessed  of  two  powers,  acid  and  corrosive, 
and  powerful  in  both  ;  it  has  a  speedy  effect  on 
logwood  ;  and  is  very  good  in  the  latter  part  of 
dye,  to  raise,  bind,  and  darken  the  colour. 

In  the  5  th  receipt  I  have  placed  the  two  powers 
as  a  preparation  for  the  blue,  which  are  in  them- 
selves in  direct  opposition  to  each  other.  The 
acid  being  inos^  powerful,  it  will  generally  de- 
stroy the  cojrrosive.    Copperas  is  a  corrosive; 


alliim  and  tartar  are  acids^,  which  soften  and 
take  off  the  ill  effects  of  the  copperas  ;  thus  mix- 
cd  together,  they  have  a  good  effect ;  but  place 
them  in  two  different  bodies  and  apply  you^ 
goods,  and  one  will  destroy  the  other.  The 
copperas  agrees  well  with  logwood,  for  almost 
any  colour  :  however,  for  a  blue,  it  is  necessary 
to  rince  the  copperas  well  gut  of  your  goods, 
otherwise  the  colour  will  be  dull.  Copperas  be- 
ing placed  v/ith  the  logwood,  kills  the  nature  of 
k,  and  destroys  the  lustre  of  the  blue  if  used  aftef 
the  logwood-  The  vcrdigrease,  sig  and  pearl- 
ash  make  the  three  powers  compleat  in  this  dye, 
dniy  in  different  form  and  manner ;  which  evi- 
dently shews  that  blue  with  logwood  cannot  be 
made  without  these  powers  ;  but  when  the 
three  powers  are  necessarily  fixed  or  placed  in 
tmion,  they  must  be  in  a  feeble  form  ;  and  stilly 
if  they  are  not  properly  applied,  although  weak 
and  feeble,  perhaps  they  will  breed  a  war  that 
will  cost  something  before  a  peace  can  be  made; 
so  be  cautious  in  dealing  with  too  many  pow- 
ers at  once,  till  you  become  well  acquainted 
with  their  relative  and  combined  strength- 


Pi?  t^55/^iY  BLUE. 

PRUSSIAN  Blue  depends  principally  on 
the  indigo  raised  by  the  power  of  the  acid,  and 
softened  by  tlie  power  of  alkali.  Oil  of  vitriol  is 
a  strong  acid,  salt  and  lime  are  alkalies ;  salt  may- 
be used,  and  answer  the  purpose  of  lime,  so  it 
evidently  appears  that  salt  is  a  simple  alkali ; 
these  three  ingredients  mi^xed  together,  make  a 
compound  of  blueing  forPrussian  blue  and  green. 
Green  is  no  colour  of  itself,  but  is  connected 
with  two,  blue  and  yellow^  which  are  both  de« 


j74  dyer's  COMPAN'IOX. 

pendant  on  the  acid.  Fustick  is  an  excellent 
dye-wood,  but  is  useless  without  the  acid  to 
raise  and  brighten  the  colour.  AUum  is  com- 
xnonly  used,  but  tartar  and  aquafortis  serve  to 
raise  the  colour  of  the  yellow  ;  so  green  may  be 
made  very  easy,  the  two  colours  being  in  per- 
fect union  with  regard  to  po^^'ers.  So  lead  them 
together  with  care  till  they  arrive  at  their  proper 
state,  which  is  a  good  green. 

In  the  10th  receipt  I  have  admitted  a  little  log- 
wood and  copperas,  which  serves  to  darken  the 
green,  and  rather  dull,  &c. 

In  the  1 1th  receipt,  I  have  admitted  pearlash^ 
allum  and  aquafortis  with  the  fustick.  Allum  and 
aquafortis  are  acids ;  pearlash  is  an  alkali;  the 
acid  raises  the  yellow,  the  alkali  softens  and  takes 
off  the  harsh  parts  of  the  acid,  fits  and  springs 
the  wool,  to  prepare  it  to  receive  the  blue  ;  the 
acids  are  binding,  and  the  alkali  the  reverse. 

In  the  12th  receipt,  I  have  admitted  wheat 
bran  wet  with  vinegar.  Vinegar  is  the  principal,, 
it  being  an  acid,  leading  to  corrosive,  or  is  in 
greater  union  than  any  other  acid  with  the  cor- 
rosive  ;  but  when  mixed  with  wheatbran,  it  is  a 
mild  acid  and  has  quite  a  different  effect  from 
what  it  would  in  the  natural  state  ;  and  cannot 
be  used  any  otlier  way  in  these  kind  of  dyes. 
When  mixed  with  the  bran,  or  othcnvise,  it  is  of 
a  cleansing  searcliing  nature.  I  have  admitted 
red  tartar,  which  is  cleansing  and  prepares  the 
cloth  or  goods  to  receive  a  colour.  Copperas 
serves  only  to  darken,  as  I  have  said  before.^ 

In  the  loth  receipt  I  have  admitted  blue  vitriol, 
which  serves  to  darken  and  raise  the  lustre  of 
the  yellow. 


BOTTLE  GREEAr: 

BOTTLE  Green  is  connected  widi  three  dif* 


7§ 

ferent  colours  ;  two  as  green,  one  as  brown  ^ 
the  green  is  possessed  of  the  quality  described 
before,  depending  on  the  acid  ;  the  brown  is 
assisted  by  the  logwood,  and  lowered  down  by 
the  power  of  the  corrosive.  The  copperas  would 
destroy  the  power  of  the  acid  in  this  dye,  were 
it  not  for  the  verdigrease  being  possessed  of  two 
powers,  which  renders  both  mild  and  friendly. 

In  the  14th  receipt,  it  is  evident  that  blue  vi- 
triol is  of  two  powers  ;  as  an  acid  it  raises  the 
yellow  of  the  fustick,  as  a  corrosive  it  darkens 
very  rapidly  Vv^ith  logwood,  so  the  goods  are  pre- 
pared with  these  two  powers  to  combine  the 
three  in  one  colour. 

The  15th  receipt  is  an  olive  green  ;  this  is  a 
simpleness  of  green,  and  depends  on  the  power 
of  the  acid,  as  green;  but  as  brown  on  the 
corrosive ;  the  acid  going  under  cover  of  the 
bark,  gives  admittance  to  the  corrosive  ;  and 
thus  the  lustre  of  the  colour  is  preserved  from 
danger. 


YELL  OIF. 

YELLOW  is  one  of  the  material  coloui% 
snd  is  dependent,  always,  on  the  power  of  the 
acid,  and  no  other  ;  but  has  different  subjects^ 
Fustick  is  the  principal  subject  among  our  dy- 
ers, and  allum  the  principal  acid.  Aquafortis 
is  ver5^  good  to  cleanse  and  prepare  the  colour  ; 
and  it  substantiates  the  yellow,  and  makes  it 
much  brighter.  So  the  allum  and  aquafortis 
agree  in  all  light  colours ;  but  aquafortis  will  not 
answer  with  a  corrosive  ;  for  it  is  so  strong  an 
acid  that  it  will  not  admit  any  thing  of  a  darken- 
ing nature,  as  you  see  in  taking  the  colour  out  of 
cloth,  &c.  The  composition  is  made  up  of 
agids,  and  that  wall  destroy  the  power  of  the 


lU  dyer's  companion. 

corrosive  and  alkali,  and  all  the  subjects  that 
unite  vvith  those  powers;  so  it  isevident  that  the 
acid  is  most  powerful — for  it  will  destroy  what 
the  others  create ;  yet  the  acid  may  be  overcome, 
in  some  of  the  most  feeble  parts,  when  not  guard- 
ed with  care  by  alkali  and  corrosive. 


SCARLET  RED. 

SCARLET  is  one  of  the  most  noble  colours 
ever  made  by  man  :  cochineal  is  its  grand  and 
principal  subject,  which  is  the  finest  and  best 
dye  drug  in  the  world.  Scarlet  has  the  most 
brilliant  rays  of  all  colours,  which  resemble  the 
sun  in  the  firmament  and  the  bow  in  the  clouds. 
Yet  cochineal  is  the  most  simple  of  all  dye  drugs, 
w^ere  it  not  for  the  power  of  the  acid  and  a  pro- 
per connection  with  other -subjects.  Thefustick 
and  turmeric  place  a  foundation  to  give  lustre  to 
the  scarlet;  aquafortis  and  argal  cleanse,  and 
raise  the  lustre,  and  make  way  for  the  cochineal 
to  take  place ;  yet  the  goods  are  too  hard — they 
want  softening  and  taking  off  the  harsh  part  of 
the  acid,  which  is  done  by  wheat  bran,  wet  with 
vinegar.  The  bran  is  softening,  and  the  vinegar 
is  an  acid  which  is  searching  and  cleansing, — 
Now  the  cloth  is  prepared  to  give  place  to  the 
cochineal.  JVrsenick  andarmorick,  are  only  as- 
sisting  subjects  ;  the  aquafortis  to  keep  up  the 
life  and  spirits  of  the  subjects.  Thus  cochineal 
is  supported  by  one  of  the  most  noble  and  great- 
est powers,  and  is  guarded  by  worthy  subjects^ 
and  a  scarlet  is  an  ornament  to  kings. 

The  next  is  possessed  of  the  same  power,  only 
the  subjects  are  a  little  differently  arranged. 


,»w>w 


dyer's  com?anign.  /%« 

CRIMSON. 

CRIMSON  has  the  brilliance  and  lustre  of 
the  rain-bow,  yet  is  possessed  of  two  colours  ;• 
but  most  united  with  the  red,  with  a  little  tine - 
tui-e  of  blue.  So  it  is  evident  crimson  is  of  no 
colour  in  itself,  but  is  a  mixture  with  red  and 
-blue.  As  red,  it  depends  on  the  acid  ;  and  a^^ 
blue,  on  the  alkali.  Cream  of  tartar,  allum,  and 
crude  tartar,  are  all  acids.  Salammoniack  is  an. 
alkali,  and  a  very  mild  one. — Thus  we  find 
these  two  powers  united  by  the  help  of  one  sub- 
ject. 

The  other,  or  the  next  following,  has  a  num« 
ber  of  subjects,  but  dependent  on  the  same  pow^ 
jers. — Red,  with  nicaragua,  is  dependent  oi:^ 
the  acid,  and  all  other  reds.  Dye  woods  are  not 
so  permanent  as  drugs,  nor  so  brilliant  in  rays ; 
but  answer  a  good  purpose  for  common  use^ 
and  make  very  good  colours.  All  crimsons 
are  dependent  on  the  powers  of  the  acid  an^^ 
dkali. 


MJJDDJ^R  RED^ 

MADDER  is  a  fine  drug,  and  maybe  cuiti?: 
vated  among  us,  very  easy.  It  is  a  tender  root  % 
and  when  manufactured  fit  for  use,  there  are 
three  different  sorts  proceeding  from  one  root. 
The  dyer  ought  to  be  well  acquainted  with  the 
cjualities  of  this  drug.  It  will  not  admit  of  boil- 
ing ;  it  kills  and  destroys  the  nature  of  it,  (as  it 
does  all  other  dye-stuffs  taken  out  of  the  ground.  '^ 
Madder  requires  the  softest  water  in  the  world. 
In  order  to  soften  the  water,  I  use  the  wheat 
bran.  But  madder  depends  partly  on  two  pow- 
ers— when  sig  h  used,  vvhiclj  seryets-  to  darken 


78  BYER'S    COjMPANIOiV. 

and  bind  the  red  ;  but  brazilletto  has  the  same 
effect,  only  the  colour  will  be  brighter — and  this 
serves  as  an  assistant,  and  the  sig  as  an  alkali, 
and  the  allum  and  argal  as  acid.  Thus  th^ 
madder  red  is  dependent  on  the  acid- 

The  Meroon  Red  has  the  same  principal  sub- 
jects,  and  is  dependent  on  the  same  powers ; 
and  differs  in  nothing  only  it  is  a  brighter  red, 
and  a  little  different  in  the  management. 


POLISHED  RED. 
"This  colour  is  the  most  independent  of  any 
colour  ;  not  depending  on  any  power  or  powers. 
Nutgalls  is  a  subject  with  madder,  but  a  little 
pearlash  may  be  added  in  case  it  wants  help  ;  so 
it  appears  that  the  alkali  stands  as  a  power,  in 
this  ;  so  all  reds  are  dependent  on  the  acids.— 
The  crimsons  and  clarets  are  nothing  of  them- 
selves, and  are  subject  to  two  powers — the  acid 
and  the  alkali.  The  subjects  being  differently 
arranged,  causes  the  different  complexions. 

The  power  of  the  corrosive  to  destroy  the 
power  of  acid. — Copperas,  the  strongest  of  all 
corrosives,  properly  prepared,  will,  without  assis- 
tance,  destroy  the  acid.  Take  cloth  from  aci- 
dous  liquor  and  put  it  in  copperas  water,  and  it 
will  wholly  destroy  the  acidous  power  ; — and 
acid  will  destroy  the  corrosive,  in  the  same 
manner.  So  it  requires  a  mediator,  when  these 
two  powers  come  together,  to  unite  them,  and 
prevent  their  destroying  each  other  ;  but  in  the 
mixture  of  colours  they  will  require  a  frequent 
and  friendly  correspondence. 


ORANGE   tOLOUR^ 

ORANGE  colour  is  fine  and  brilliapt^  jtfld 


BYER'S   €?OMPANIOISr.  79 

lias  the  shades  of  two  colours — yellow,  in  full ; 
and  red,  in  part.  So  orange  is  the  union  of  two 
colours  which  agree  in  powers  only. 


CHERRY  COLOUR, 

CHERRY  is  a  dark  red,  and  is  subject  to  the 
powers  of  acid  and  alkali ;  and  the  subjects  are 
barwood  and  brazlUetto—but  barwood  is  the 
niostdependingone,though  the  other  isnecessarj^. 


VIOLET  COLOURS. 

VIOLETS  are  a  mixture  of  red  and  blue  ; 
the  red  depends  on  the  subject  of  brazilletto  and 
on  the  power  of  the  acid— the  blue,  on  the  sub- 
ject of  logwood  and  on  the  power  of  the  alkali. 
Thus,  in  this  dye,  the  powers  and  subjects 
agree,  and  by  varying  the  powers  and  subjects, 
alter  the  complexions. 


FIJVK  COLOURS. 

PINKS  are  of  various  colours,  but  this  is  a 
simple  red,  and  is  dependent  on  the  power  of  the 
acid;  Its  subjects  are  a  number,  but  I  have 
laid  them  down  as  one  in  the  receipt,  and  that 
is  madder — which  is  the  principal  subject  to  be 
depended  on  in  this  colour. 


FLESH  COLOUR. 
^  FLESH  colour  is  a  simple  colour  of  red, 
changed  from  v/hite  to  a  small  tincture  of  red: 


80  bver's  companiqi;. 

This  has  a  number  of  subjects,  but  is  deiJgn- 
dent  on  the  power  of  the  acid. 


BROWN  has  many  subjects,  and  of  various 
complexions,  principally  dependent  on  thepow- 
er  of  the  corrosive  ;  but  sometimes  we  admit 
the  weak  power  of  the  alkali,  like  the  sig,  &c* 
Brown  has  the  greatest  connection  with  all  the 
colours,  oi  any  colour :  for  most,  or  tlie  great- 
est port  of  llie  mixed  colours,  are  connected 
widi  the  brown^  as  we  shall  shortly  shevv^ 


QORBEJU,  WITH  CJMfVOOl}. 

CORBEAU  is  a  mixture  of  two  colours,  red 
and  brown  ;  these  colours,  in  this  one,  depen- 
dent  on  tv/o  powers,  and  but  one  principal  sub-^ 
ject.  The  pov/ers  are  an  acid  and  corrosive  ; 
the  subject,  camwood  and  the  best  of  dye-wood. 
The  red  depends  on  the  oil  of  vitriol  for  an 
acid  ;  to  prepare  and  unite  the  bodies  of  the 
goods  to  take  off  a  gray  that  these  colours  arc 
inclining  to;  tlie  blue  vitriol  being  possessed  of 
two  powers,  intercedes  for  the  brown,  supports 
the  red  and  raises  the  lustre,  which  is  the  glory 
of  these  colours  when  united  together  ;  die  cloth 
er  goods,  in  a  direct  view,  will  be  brown  but 
when  glanced  by  the  eye  or  looked  across,  it 
will  appear  with  a  fine  lustre  of  red. 

The  acid  is  a  gunrd  to  the  red,  but  tliat  would 
TiOt  give  j^'dmittance  to  ti^e  brown,  ^^ere  it  not 
for  the  blue  vitriol  being  of  two  pov/ers,  which 
interpose  for  tlieir  mutual  good.  Copperas,  the 
strongest  of  corrosives,  is  harsh  and  liery,  and 


dyer's  COMPAl^ION.  81 

wants  to  be  softened  down  notwithstanding  the 
blue  vitriol.  Were  it  not, for  another  assistant 
uniting  with  the  corrosive,  you  would  fail  in  the 
union  of  these  two  colours  ;  by  dissolving  the 
copperas  in  vinegar,  it  softens  the  copperas  ;  the 
vinegar  being  an  acidous  power,  uniting  with  the 
corrosive,  causes  the  two  powers  to  unite.  The 
logwood  assists  the  camwood  in  completing  the 
necessary  union.  Thus  when  these  two  colours, 
which  are  in  opposition  to  each  other  have  occa- 
sion to  unite,  it  must  be  by  the  mediation  or  the 
sul^ject  of  two  powers,  a&.  I  shall  shew  more 
plainly  in  the  next  place. 


CORBEAU  WITH  ISICARJGUJ. 

NICARAGUA,  not  of  so  spirited  a  nature^ 
requires  the  greater  assistance  of  the  powers^ 
'X'his  has  the  assistance  of  three  powers,  and 
has  assisting  subjects ;  thefustick,  as  an  assisting 
::^ubject,  raises  the  lustre  of  the  red  ;  and  yellow 
always  depends  on  the  acid  ;  the  blue  vitriol 
guards  the  acid  against  the  corrosive,  keeps  it 
from  danger,  and  fits  it  to  receive  the  subject  of 
logwood  ;  the  verdigrease  supports  the  acid, 
raises  the  lustre  of  the  red,  and  unites  with  the 
corrosive ;  the  copperas  being  softened  by  the 
sig,  the  weak  power  of  the  alkali*  So  by  the 
union  of  the  three  powers,  and  two  mixed  pow- 
ers, and  the  subjects,  (the  Nicaragua  the  chief,) 
the  two  colours  are  brought  to  an  union. 


CORBEAU  WITH  RED  WOOD, 

REDWOOD  has  spirit  sufficient,  but  is  s1c\t 
H2 


82  DYEk'S    CJOMPANItiT. 

in  motion,  and  is  a  feeble  subject ;  and  yet  is  a 
subject  of  great  use  :  however,  it  requiresrassis- 
tauce,  otherwise  it  would  fail.  It  is  supported 
by  the  three  powers,  the  acid  and  corrosive  are 
its  main  dependencies  ;  but  I  have  placed  them 
in  different  forms,  as  you  will  see  by  the  receipts 
for  corbeau  and  London  brown  with  red-wood. 
The  powers  must  support  the  different  subjects 
according  to  the  different  order  in  which  they  are 
admitted.  I  have  left  some,  deficient  of  the  pow- 
er of  the  corrosive,  to  the  assistant  subject  log- 
wood,  and  the  power  of  the  weak  alkali  sig  ; 
but  in  case  the  colour  is  not  dark  enough^  then 
the  dyer's  judgment  will  call  his  attention  to  look 
on  the  receipts  before  mentioned,  and  he  will 
see  the  corrosive  will  be  admitted — the  copper- 
as or  verdigrease,  which  is  commonly  best 
to  guard  the  red,  and'  powerful  in  darkening. 
Thus  we  find  the  acid  and  corrosive  are  necessa- 
ry with  this  mixture  of  red  and  brown ;  and 
sometim.es  softened  by  the. powder  of  the  alkali. 
Tlie  dyer  will  always  find  diese  colours  must  be 
supported  by  the  power  of  the  acid  and  corro- 
sive.  The  acid  the  power  of  the  red  always  ; 
the  corrosive  the  complete  power  of  the  browru 
The  reddish  brown  and  Spanish  brovvn  are  de- 
pendant on  the^me  powders,  but  not  altogetlici^ 
on  the  same  subjects,  &e. 


LOADOJ^r  SMOKE. 

THE  London  Smoke  is  a  mixture  of  yellow 
and  bro%vn.  The  yellow  is  dependant  on  the 
cicid,  and  is  the  substan  e  and  life  of  the  colour. 
Fustick  is  the  principal  subject  for  the  yellow, 
and  allum  the  acid,  but  the  bark  is  a  guard  to 
the  yellow,  and  is  a  subject  in  favor  of  all  pow^ 


dyer's  COMPANIOInI?*  .        8S 

ers.  The  smoke  is  a  very  dark  colour,  bearing 
a  little  red  with  the  yellow ;  thus,  the  butternut 
bark  substantiates  every  part  of  these  colours  i 
the  Nicaragua  raises  the  reddish  hue,  the  log- 
wood assists  the  copperas  in  darkening,  and  the 
sig  supports  the  colour  in  every  part,  and  enliv- 
ens it  to  give  place  to  the  corrosive.  Thus  the, 
three  powers  are  united  in  this  mixed  colour^ 
with  many  powerful  subjects  ^vhich  stand  wd-i 
to  the  last. 


CIJVJVJMON  BR  0  WN. 

CINNAMON  colour  is  a  mixture  of  threa 
colours,  red  and  yellow  in  perfect  union,  and  isr 
dependent  on  the  acid  ;  and  the  brown,  the  cor- 
rosive and  allcali.  So  the  three  powers,  and 
three  subjects  are  united  in  this  mixture.  The 
smoke  and  liver  browns  are  simply  the  same  as 
London  smoke,  only  differing  in  their  subjects  ; 
the  camwood  and  madder  corresponding  with 
the  fustick,  and  laying  a  foundation  for  the 
brown.  Thus  the  subjects  will  unite  so  perfect^ 
ly  well  together,  that  they  are  at  peace  with  ail 
the  powers  but  the  the  corrosive  ;  and  this  bind^ 
all  these  subjects  and  unites  the  colours. 


OLIVE  jBBOirM 

THE  Olive  differs  nothing  more  from  smok& 
than  this  it  is  not  so  dark,  h^s  no  hue  of  red, 
and  is  not  depending  on  the  alkali  ;  but  the 
weak  alkali  may  be  admitted,  (as  sig)  but  is  de- 
pendent on  the  powers  of  acid  and  corrosive  r 
and  the  subjects  of  the  olives  are  fustick  th^ 


84  DYER'S  companion; 

principal  ;  the  others  which  are  many,  serve  to 
alter  the  complexions  and  give  different  shades* 
Butternut,  logwood  and  madder  unite  as  to 
shades  ;  the  blueing  gives  a  dilFerent  shade^ 
I'hus  it  is  left  to  the  discretion  of  the  dyers  to 
make  use  of  what  form  they  please. 


SJsrUFF  BROWm 

SNUFF  Colours  are  formed  of  three  coloui^  i 
dependent  on  the  yellow  for  lustre,  and  the  red 
and  brown  for  the  shades.  The  snuff  colours 
are  dependent  principally  on  the  power  of  the 
acid  and  corrosive,  and  a  little  on  the  power  of 
the  alkali ;  and  the  many  different  subjects  have 
correspondence  with  these  powei;3.  Their  union 
in  this  manner  causes  the  difference  in  complex- 
ions. So  as  to  the  powers,  properties  and  ef- 
fects of  these  browns,  they  are  simply  all  as  one, 
but  differing  in  complexions;  1  mean  the 
f^moke,  the  olive  and  snuff.  It  is  dependent  on 
the  fu stick  and  the  acid  :  the  red  is  dependent 
on  the  redwood,  camwood  and  madder,  and  on 
the  power  of  the  alkali ;  the  brown  on  the  barks, 
the  logwoodj  and  sumac  ;  and  is  dependent  on 
the  corrosive.  Thus  by  changing  the  orders  of 
the  subjects  and  powers,  the  different  shades 
may  be  produced  in  those  colours  ;  and  this  I 
liave  left  to  the  discretion  of  the  dyer. 


bat-wijYG,    slate,    dove    or    lead, 
pearl  or  silver  grey,aj\^ddrab. 

AS  to  these  colours,  they  are  a  mixture  of  all 
colours,  and  are  depending  on  ail  the  powers 


dyer's  oompakion.  85* 

vvnd  almost  all  the  subjects.     Some  shades  are 
very  light,  merely  changed  from  white ;  some 
re  dark  near  to  a  black,  but  as  to  the  above co- 
.  ours  they  are  stiled  greys,forming  various  shades 
and  complexions,  from  a  pearl  to  a  slate  colour  ; 
tlie  different  subjects  corresponding  with  the 
powers,  causes  the  complexions  to  difftr.     So 
with  regard  to  the  powers,  I  think  I  have  de- 
scribed plamly  before  ;  the  union  of  the  subjects 
and  colours  are  of  so  extensive  a  nature  in  these 
different  shades,  it  is  in  vain  to  describe  them 
in  manner  and  form  as  I  have  the  rest,  for  it- 
would  swell  a  volume.     I  have  been  very  par- 
ticular in  the  receipts,  and  given  rules  sufficient^ 
and  an  extensive  asfiortment  of  shades  ;  but  in 
short,  they  are  all  greys  of  different  complexions', 
being  of  a  weak  and  feeble  make,  and  must  be 
nursed  with  care,  otherwise  they  will  nevei"  ar- 
rive to  a  state  of  maturity. 


THE  raven  is  a  mixture  of  two  colours,  blii^ 
land  black  ;  black  direct,  and  blue  by  the  glance 
of  the  eye.  N(jw  the  blue  is  dependent  on  the 
power  of  the  acid  and  alkali,  and  the  black  on 
the  power  of  the  corrosive.^  The  wheat  bran 
softens  the  goods  ;  the  vinegar  as  an  acid 
cleanses  them  and  prepares  them  to  meet  the 
subjects,  and  the  madder  and  alhirn  rouses  it  up 
for  the  logwood  ;  lying  and  souring  gives  puie. 
tration  and  admittance  to  the  remaining  sub=^ 
jects,  and  the  corrosive  power. 


CROW  WITH  COP  PER  JS. 

CROW  colour  differs  not  much  from  the  ra- 


b6  DVER's    GOMPANJONr 

ven.  ^  If  any,  only  in  form ;  but  I  think  there  is 
a  difterence — the  crow  is  attended  with  a  little 
brownish  luie,  and  is  dependent  on  the  power  of 
the  con'osive,  and  the  subject  of  the  logAvoodi  &C, 

CROW  WITH  COMPOUND   OF  BLUEING. 

THE  blue  part  is  raised  with  the  blueing 
which  has  been  described  before  ;  the  black  on 
the  corrosive  ;  the  logwood  the  principal  sub- 
ject ;  the  verdigrease  intercedes  for  both,  and 
unites  both  colours  together. 


CROW  WITH  BLUE  VITRIOL. 

BLUE  Vitriol  being  connected  with  two 
powers,  the  acid  and  corrosive,  forms  an  union 
with  these  two  colours,  and  prepares  them  to 
meet  the  subject  of  logwood,  and  brings  them 
on  terms  never  more  to  part. 


BLACK. 


BLACK  is  a  colour  of  all  colours.  It  has 
but  one  shade,  and  that  is  the  shade  of  darkness. 
Black  is  dependent  on  the  power  of  the  corro- 
rsive,  and  has  many  subjects  ;  but  logwood  is 
the  principal,  the  others  serve  as  assistants 
to  the  logwood.^  Thus  one  power  and  one  sub- 
ject form  the  substance  of  this  colour.  There 
are  difterent  shades  of  all  colours  except  black. 

Some  men,  and  even  philosophers,  have  en- 
deavoured to  shew  that  black  is  not  a  colour ; 


dyer's  companion.  87 

but  I  shall  endeavour  to  refute  them.    Black  is 
made  of  materials,  as  any  other  colour  ;  dark- 
ness is  caused  by  materials,  by  the  earth  and  the 
material  world  ;  by  the  shadow  of  these,  dark- 
ness comes  ;  and  by  the  subjects  of  materials, 
white  is  changed  to  black.     So  men  may  as 
well  argue  that  light  is  darkness,  as  to  say  that 
black  is  not  a  colour-     Light  is  not  darkness, 
nor  white  black  ;  but  were  j;he  light  to  remam 
with  us,  we  should  not  perceive  the  darkness ; 
and  if  we  were  not  blessed  with  materials,  we 
should  not  change  white  into  colours.^    Light 
is  changed  by  materials  ;  the  light  of  this  w  orld 
is  of  a  nature  to  be  changed,  and  white  is  of  the 
same  substance,  depending  for  its  changes  on 
materials  of  dye-stuff;  by  our  f;<culties  we  use 
them?  and  obtain  the  desire<:l  effect  Tvhich  God 
in  his  wisdom  has  designed.  Blue,  yellow,  red, 
brown  and  black   are  made  of  materials;  they 
are  all  colours,  and  are  all  of  equal  rank,  formed 
from  white ;  yet  black  is  most  powerful,  for 
that  maybe  made  to  overshado  wall  other  colours, 
^nd  cause  darkness  to  reign  over  the  m  all.     So 
it  is  evident  that  black  is  a  colour  of  all  colours, 
"But  black  and  white  mixed  together  is  no  co- 
lour. If  light  and  darkness  were  mixed  together, 
Ave  should  have  neither  :  the  God  that  made 
the  world  separated  the  light  from  the  darkness ; 
so  in  like  manner  he  has  given  us  materials,  and 
a  faculty  to  use    them,  to   change    white    to 
black.    Thus  we  find  that  black  is  a  colour. 

It  is  said  that  orange  and  violets  are  colours, 
but  they  are  not  in  themselves  so,  but  are  com- 
pounded of  colours*  No  mixture  can  be  a  real 
colour. 

Having  endeavoured  to  give  you  my  ideas  of 
the  properties  and  effects  of  colours  ;  I  request 
to  be  read  with  candor,  and  hope  to  be  of  some 
benefit.  If  I  have  committed  errors,  I  wish 
they  may  be  corrected  for  the  public  ab vantage. 


^3  dyer's    COI^IPAXIOX. 

COLOURIA'G  SILK, 

SILK  is  of  a  nature  different  from  wool, 
cotton,  and  fnien  :  it  is  ofa  deadly  nature  :  how- 
ever, the  most  of  preparations  for  dying  woollen 
will  answer  for  silk,  only  the  dye  requires  to  be 
stronger.  It  has  also  such  an  union  with  cotton 
l\nd  linen,  that  most  of  these  preparations  will 
answer  for  either.  So  it  appears  that  silk  is  of 
a  substance  between  v/ool,  cotton  and  linen,  and 
it  unites  with  them  as  to  colours,  &c. 


DYIJVG  COTrOA'J.VD  LIA'BN. 

COTTON  and  Linen  are  of  a  cold  and 
deadly  nature,  and  require  different  preparations 
and  management  in  colouring.  It  is  the  best  v/ay 
in  colouring  cotton  and  linen,  to  have  the  dye 
cold  ;  they  being  of  so  cold  a  nature.  As  to 
the  colours  of  cotton  and  linen,  I  shall  say  but 
little :  As  to  the  powers,  the  principal  is  the 
corrosive,  the  next  die  alkali,  and  sometimes 
the  acid ;  which  j' ou  will  see  by  the  receipts. 
The  subjects  are  many,  but  die  grand  subject 
is  nutgalls ;  the  others  are  so  numerous,  I  shall 
•not  mention  them  now.  I  have  endeavoured  to 
explain  them  explicitly  in  the  receipts  for  cot- 
ton  and  linen,  and  think  it  needless  to  mention 
them  again  here.  As  to  the  powers  and  the 
union  of  the  subjects,  they  have  been  explained 
before  and  the  best  way  is  to  examine  the  rules 
for  improvements,  and  follow  the  receipts  close 
in  proptr  order,  and  I  presume  to  say  they  will 
have  the  desired  effect,  m  all  colours  and  shades; 


dyer's  companion.  89 

t^BSEnrATIOjYS  ON  THE  PEESEjVT  SITUA- 
TIOjYOF  THE  DYER'S  BUSINESS. 

Observation  First* 

WE  think  ourselves  masters  of  our  busi- 
Bess  before  we  are,  and  undertake  to  do  that  we 
know  nothing  of.  By  this  our  business  is  ruiii-^ 
ed,  our  customers  imposed  upon,  and  our  coun- 
try impoverished  ;  this  is  the  present  situation 
of  our  business. 

Observation  Second. — Those  impostors  in» 
jure  their  fellow- functioners  as  well  as  the  pub- 
lic, by  discouraging  manufactories.  Finding 
they  fail  of  their  intentions,  they  begin  to  encou- 
rage their  customers  by  promising  to  do  better, 
and  to  work  very  cheap  ;  by  these  impostors, 
people  are  deluded,  and  their  goods  not  un- 
irequently  ruined.  With  the  customer,  who 
knows  nothing  of  dressing,  cheapness  is  every 
thing.  The  workman  who  is  a  complete  mas*, 
ter  of  his  business  is  often  compelled  to  regu- 
late his  prices  of  work  by  the  charges  of  those 
who  are  ignorant  of  the  trade  )  (^nsequently  the 
work  is  slighted,  or  the  mechanic  cannot  obtain 
a  living ;  and  the  employer  is  a  loser  in  the  end,, 
as  the  goods  are  badly  finished,  or  perhaps  en- 
tirely ruined. 

Let  those  who  practise  in  a  business  make 
themselves  masters  of  it;  then  fair  and  just  prices 
may  be  obtained  for  their  labor,  and  the  employ- 
er will  be  better  satisfied,  and  real  justice  be 
done  him. — Thus  our  manufactories  would  be 
increased :  The  interests  of  the  employer  and 
employed  would  both  be  enhanced  ;  they  are 
inseparable:^  selfishness  counteracts  its  own 
views  ;  the  injustice  we  do  our  country,  v^e  do 
to  ourselves. 

As  a  nation  we  can  never  be  really  indepen- 
dent, until  we  become  our  own  manufacturers, 
©f  articles  pf  the  first  necessity.    To  arrive  at 


90  dyer's    COMPANIOIC. 

this  desirable  point  ought  to  be  our  constant  en-, 
deavour ;  and  every  real  patriot  will  use  his  ex- 
ertions, not  only  in  word  but  in  deed,  to  hasten 
the  period. 

OBSERVATIOA^S  OJST  MANUFACTURING 
CLOTH. 
TO  make  fine  Broadcloth,take  your  wool  and 
sort  it  carefully ;  take  the  shortest  and  finest  of 
the  wool,  leaving  no  coarse  locks  with  it ;  then 
break  the  wool  all  together,  and  card  it  into  rolls 
by  one  person  or  machine,  then  spin  well  the 
filling  cross  handed  ;  give  it  a  good  twist,  but 
not  hard  so  as  to  be  wirey  ;  let  it  all  be  twisted 
alike,  and  spun  by  one  person,  tJien  let  it  be 
well  wove,  with  the  threads  closed  together,  but 
not  too  hard.  Then  take  the  long  wool,  and 
have  it  combed  into  worsted ;  have  it  well  spun, 
twisted  well,  and  wove  firm.  Thin  cloths  de- 
pend on  the  t\yisting  and  firm  weaving ;  but  the 
other,  after  it  is  well  manufactured,  depends  on 
the  fulling  to  close  and  make  it  firm,  and  on  the 
dressing  for  beauty.  The  cloth  if  well  manu- 
factured, well  fulled,  and  well  dyed  and  dress- 
jed,  will  appear  equal  to  any  imported  cloths ; 
but  if  not  well  manufactured,  it  will  not  be 
handsome. 

If  you  have  coarse  wool  and  fine  mixed  toge- 
ther, it  cannot  be  a  fine  piece  ;  if  it  is  not  broke 
and  carded  together,  it  will  not  work  well;  it  is 
liable  to  be  streaked,  and  pucker  or  cockle  in  the 
mill.  If  not  well  spun,  or  if  spun  by  two  hands^ 
it  will  have  the  same  effect ;  and  if  two  weave  on 
one  piece,  one  thick  and  the  other  thin,  it  will 
cause  it  to  pucker  or  cockle. 

With  proper  care  and  attention  in  the  manu- 
facturing and  dressing  of  cloths,  we  may  equal 
any  in  workmanship  and  beauty,  and  afford 
tUen^  one  third  cheaper  than  those  imported* 


APPENDIX 

TO  THE 

DYER'S    COMPANION, 

INTRODUCTIONo 

THE  author  of  the  Dyer's  Companion 
thinks  it  his  duty,  in  gratitude  to  the  professors 
in  that  noble  art,  to  subscribe  his  hearty  thanks 
for  their  approbation  of,  and  encouragement 
given  to  that  work,  in  this  and  every  part  of 
America.  It  is  well  known  by  that  body 
of  people,  and  felt  by  some,  that  the  price  for 
dying  woollen  goods  has  been  much  reduced  of 
late.  Many  circumstances  having  determined 
me,  long  since,  to  acquire  all  possible  know- 
ledge in  the  practice  of  dying  ;  in  my  first  edi- 
tion I  had  not  the  advantage  of  any  author 
to  assist  me,  in  compiling  or  improving  this 
noble  art,  it  is  a  work  of  my  own  study  and  im- 
provements ;  I  have  of  late  had  the  advantage  of 
some  authors,  showing  the  general  practice  of 
dying  all  over  Europe,  in  England,  France, 
Germany,  &C'  which  I  shall  in  this  edition  give, 
a  general  plan  of  dying,  together  with  my  own 
improvements  from  my  small  practice,  and  some 
observations  on  tlie  properties  and  effects  of 
dyes  and  dye  stuff,  the  modern  and  ancient  forms, 
as  to  the  use  of  them.  I  am  therefore  constrain- 
ed, once  more  to  recommend  a  strict  inquiry 
into  the  original  quality  of  all  the  drugs  they 
use,  that  thereby^  if  possible,  they  may  discover 
some  of  the  hidden  advantages  that  may  justly 
be  expected  therefrom.    I  am  astonished  that 


92  3yTaODUCTIO>. 

no  artist  has  ever  attempted  to  improve  thh 
most  ingenious  art  of  chymical  principles,  I  be- 
gan  the^  work  in  hopes  that  my  master- piece 
would  induce  some  Artist  to  undertake  its  im- 
provement, but  in  vain  do  I  expect  it. 

Of  flowers. — Among  the  infinite  variety  of 
colours,  which  glow  in  the  flowers  of  plants^ 
there  are  very  few  which  have  any  durability, 
or  whose  fugitive  beauty  can  be  an^ested  by  art> 
so  as  to  be  applied  to  any  valuable  purpose  ;  the 
only  permanent  ones  are  the  yellow,  the  red,  the 
blue,  and  all  the  intermediate  shades  of  purple  ; 
crimson,  violets,  &c.  are  extremely  perishable. 
Many  of  these  flowers  lose  their  colour  on  being- 
dried,  especiully  if  they  are  dried  slowly  ;  the 
colours  of  them  all  perish  even  in  the  closest 
vessels,  the  quicker  they  are  dried,  and  exclud- 
ed from  the  air,  the  longer  they  retain  theiif 
beauty.  The  colouring  matter,  extracted  and  ap- 
plied on  certain  bodies,  is  still  more  perishable  ; 
oftentimes  it  is  destroyed  in  the  hand  of  the 
operator.  The  colour  of  blue  flow^ers  is  extract- 
ed by  the  infusion  of  water  ;  but  there  are  some 
from  which  this  gains  only  a  redish  or  purplish 
hue.  The  red  flowers  readily  communicate  their 
own  red  colour  to  water,  there  is  no  exception 
among  those  that  have  been  tried  ;  rectified 
spirits  give  a  brighter,  but  paler  than  the  w^ater 
infusion.  The  colour  of  yellow  flowers,  are  in 
general  durable ;  many  of  them  are  as  much  so 
perhaps  as  any  ofthe  native  colours  of  vegetables. 
The  colour  is  extracted  both  by  water  &  spirits ; 
the  watry  infusions  are  the  deepest.  Neither 
t^cid  nor  alkalis  alter  the  species  of.  colour, 
though  both  of  them  vary  the  shades  ;  acid, 
making  it  paler,  and  alkalis  deeper  :  allum  Irke- 
wise  considerably  heightens  it,  though  not  so 
much  as  alkalis.  Woollen  silk  impregnated  with 
a  solution  of  allum  and  tartar,  receives  a  durable 


INTRODtrCTIO^r;  91> 

fellow.  Some  of  these  flowers  were  made  use  of 
y  the  German  dyers. 

Of  fruits.' — The  red  juices  of  fruits  are,  red 
currants,  mulberries,  elder  berries,  morello,  black 
cherries,  &c.  gently  inspissated  to  dryness,  dis- 
solve again;  almost  totally  in  water,  and  appear 
nearly  of  the  same  red  colour  as  at  first.    Recti- 
fied spirits  extracts  the  tinging  particles,  leaving 
a  considerable  portion  of  muilaginous  water  un- 
dissolved, yet  the  spirituous  tincture  proves 
of  a   brighter  colour   than    the  watry.      The 
red  solutions  and  the  juices  themselves,    are 
sometimes  made  dull,    and  sometimes    more 
florid,  by  acid,  and  generally  turned  purplish 
by  alkalis.    There  are  a  great  number  of  fruits 
of  different  shades  which  1  shall  not  attempt 
to  enumerate  or  describe.     But  to  prove,  the 
proofs  of  colouring  vegetables  is   by  varying 
them  with  spirits,  acids  and  alkalis,  saline,   vo- 
latile and  corrosive  liquors.     When  I  make  use 
of  the  word  corrosive  it  is  intended  to  imply,  to 
absorb,  to  destroy,  to  reign  king  like  black,  or 
to  change  any  shade,  and  destroying  the  lustre, 
or  lustre  of  the  colour ;  it  is  one  of  the  reigning 
powers,  let  the  substance  or  qu  ality  be  what  it  will. 
Of  Plants.— -The  blue  and  green  colours  of 
leaves  and  plants,  have  more  or  less  fusibility  ; 
we  cannot  claim  in  the  mineral  and  animal  king- 
doms, no  substitute  for  blue,  except  (Prussian 
blue,)  one  which  has  been  introduced  by  some 
dyer's  as  a  colouring  substance,  and  the  vegeta- 
bles yield  but  two,  which  are  both  produced 
from  the  leaves  of  plants  :  indigo    and  woad. 
For  yellow,  there  are  seven  different  plants  be- 
sides woad  and  barks,  which  will  be  spoken  of 
hereafter.    The  leaves  of  many  kinds  of  herbs 
and  trees  give  a  yellow  dye  to  wool  or  woollen 
doth,  that  has  been  boiled  in  a  solution  of  allum  < 
-^■nd  tartar  5  wild  in  particular  affords  a  fine  yeU 
I  2 


94  INTRODireTION"* 

low,  and  is  commonly  made  use  of  fof  this  pur- 
pose by  the  dyer's,  and  cultivated  in  large  quan- 
tities in  some  parts  of  England.  There  is  no 
colour  for  which  we  have  such  a  variety  of  ma- 
terials as  for  yellow  ;  Mr.  Hellot  observes,  that 
all  leaves,  barks  and  jjpots,  which  on  being  chewed 
discover  a  slight  astnngency,  as  the  leaves  of  the 
almond,  peaoh,  and  pear  trees,  ash  bark,  the 
roots  of  wild  patience,  &:c.  all  yield  durable  yel- 
lows ;  the  brightness  will  be  according  to  your 
preparation  >talluip  and  tartar,  and  length  o£ 
time  you  boil  your  dye,  &c.  If  we  were  sensible 
of  the  double  advantage  that  might  be  acquired 
in  the  use  of  many  of  our  vegetable  drugs, 
which  must  be  first  grounded  on  chymical  expe- 
riments in  miniature,  which  will  be  a  certain 
rule  to  the  practice  at  large,  I  am  certain  you 
would  not  rest  till  you  had  made  some  improve- 
ment.^ For  experiment,  after  you  have  been  dy- 
ing with  that  resinous  drug  sanders,  when  emp- 
tying the  vessel,  you  take  up  a  handful,  dry  it 
and  digest  it  in  a  phial  with  some  pure  spirits  of 
wine,  and  it  will  afford  you  an  excellent  red  ; 
water  being  insufficient  to  dissolve  the  resin,  and 
set  out  the  prime  part  of  the  colour.  Many  oth- 
ers may  be  discovered  if  an  unwearied  attention 
was  paid. 

Of  dying  in  general.  —  If  I  ask  a  dyer  what^ 
ingredients  compose  a  black  ?  the  answer  will  be 
this,  logwood,  sumac,  galls,  bark,  and  coppe*. 
ras  ;  and  if  he  knows  it,  he  will  add  in  Jiis  last 
dip  a  little  ashes  or  argal.  If  I  ask  him,  which  of 
these  drugs  contain  an  acid,  which  an  aleotic, 
and  which  a  neutral  quality,  he  cannot  give  me 
an  answer  ;  so  you  see  he  knows  the  effect,  bufe 
is  a  stranger  to  the  cause,  and  every  thing  else 
separate  from  fact  and  custom.  What  a  pity 
it  is  that  men  will  not  search  things  to  the  bot- 
torn,  when  they  might  be  able  to  find  out  tl^e 
eauses  of  miscarriages^  for  which  goods    are 


INTRODUCTIOK-.  95 

frequently  thrown  aside  to  be  dyed  other  colours, 
greatly  to  the  dyer's  loss.  In  convershig  with  a 
sensible  dyer  I  simply  asked  him  what  part  does 
logwood  act  in  the  black  dye  ;  the  honest  man 
answered,  it  helps  to  make  it  black  ;  no  other 
Ijroof  was  wanted  but  to  follow  the  old  round  ; 
but  the  reader  by  now  thinks  it  time  to  be  in- 
formed of  the  business  of  logwood,  which 
is,  (if  used  in  a  right  proportion,)  to  soften 
the  goods,  and  give  a  body  and  lustre  to  the 
colour.  Logwood  being  possessed  of  a  most  ex- 
cellent astringent  quality,  fixes  itself  in  the  pores 
of  the  goods,  and  gives  them  a  velvet-like  feel 
and  gloss. 

Some  will  object  to  this  assertion,  and  say^ 
but  our  blacks  have  not  that  velvet-hke  feel 
and  gloss  ;  true,  sir ;  but  don't  you  know  the 
reason  ;  you  dye  your  black  without  scowering 
your  goods,  forgetting,  or  not  knowing,  that 
when  the  goods  enter  the  boiling  dye  liquor 3^ 
they  grow  harsh  and  the  oil  contained  in  thent 
forms  a  sort  of  resin,  which  becomes  as  fixed 
as  if  it  was  pitch  or  tar,  this  is  one  great  reason 
why  black  is  so  liable  to  soil  linen  because  the 
dye  in  some  sense  is  held  in  an  outside  or  super- 
ficial state  ;  it  is  not  possible  these  goods  should 
finish  soft  like  velvet,  or  shine  like  a  ravens 
feather !  No,  on  the  contrary  they  spoil  the 
press  papers  and  come  out  stiff  and  hard  like 
buckram,  (not  velvet,)  no  greater  cause  can  be 
assigned  for  it  th-in  that  of  not  scowering;  this  is 
the  reason  of  the  great  difference,  so  much  spo- 
ken of,  between  the  London  blacks  and  those 
dyed  in  America  ;  if  the  American  dyers  would 
take  the  same  pains  as  the  Londoners  do,  I 
think  they  would  excel  i^n  fact,  if  not  in  name^ 
and  therefore  let  the  American  dyers  be  equally 
tight  and  clean  in  their  performances,  and  there 
is  nothing  to  prevent  their  superiority.  Many 
^viil  censure  and  despise  this,  for  no  other  re?.- 


^  iWTRODircfTroH; 

son  than  because  they  cannot  see  into  it,  nor 
will  they  be  at  any  pains  to  learn  and  improve 
their  talents ;  they  seem  rather  to  choose  the  old 
round,  having  no  spirit  or  courage  to  improve, 
but  content  with  each  knowing  the  other's  me- 
thod, without  strivhig  to  excel,  and  discover  a 
more^  complete  and  less  expensive  way  of 
working  and  using  the  drugs  to  the  best  advan- 
tage.  ^  I  know  not  how  men  can  sit  still  Vv^hen 
there  is  more  to  learn  ;  let  it  not  be  said  of  you 
as  one  of  old,  he  lived  and  died  and  did  nothing ; 
perhaps  he  worked  with  his  hands  but  his  head 
was  asleep,  and  when  dead  his  memory  was  no 
more  ;  sure  it  is,  the  invitation  I  have  to  write 
and  publish  this  small  treatise  on  dying  is  not 
so  much  to  please  others,  or  to  show  any  thing 
I  have  is  capable  of  the  name  of  parts,  but  to 
communicate  my  good  wishes  for  improve- 
ments to  my  brethren  the  dyers,  and  to  show 
my  willingness  to  help  to  perfect  one  of  the  most 
useful  arts  in  the  world. 

There  are  very  few  arts  so  expensive  as  that 
^f  dying;  and  although  those  principal  com- 
modities, clothing  and  furniture,  receive  tlieir 
chief  improvement  and  value  therefrom,  it  is  ne- 
vertheless very  for  from  being  brought  to  per- 
fection. A  long  Tjractice,  sound  judgment,  and 
great  attention,  will  form  a  good  and  expert 
dyer.  Many  dyers  can  work  w^ith  success  in  a 
number  of  colours  only  which  depend  on  each 
other,  and  are  entirely  ignorant  of  the  rest,  or 
have  but  a  very  imperfect  idea  of  them. 

A  philosopher,  who  studies  the  art  of  dyings 
is  in  some  measure  astonished  at  the  multiplici- 
ty of  new  objects  which  it  affords  ;  every  step 
presents  new  difficulties  and  ol^curities,  with- 
out  hopes  of  any  instruction  from  the  common 
workmen,  who  seldom  know  more  than  facts 
and  custom.  Their  manner  of  explaining  then?:- 


selves,  an5  their  common  terms,  only  afford 
more  darkness,  which  the  uncommon  and  ofterr 
useless  circumstances  of  their  proceedings  ren» 
der  more  obscure.  ^ 

Before  we  enter  into  the  particulars  of  dying 
wool,  it  is  necessary  to  give  anidea  of  the  prima- 
ry colours,  or  rather  of  those  which  bear  this 
name  by  the  artist ;  for  it  will  appear  by  readings 
the  celebrated  works  of  Sir  Isaac  Newton  oir 
Light  and  Colours,  that  they  bear  no  affinity 
with  those  which  the  Philosophers  call  by  that 
name.  They  are  thus  named  by  the  workmen, 
because  by  the  nature  of  the  ingredients  of 
which  they  are  composed,  they  are  the  basis 
from  w^hence  all  others  are  derived.  This  divi^ 
sion  of  colours,  and  the  idea  which  T  intend  to 
give  of  them,  are  also  common  to  the  different 
kinds  of  dying. 

The  five  primary  colours  are  blue,  red,  yellow^^ 
brown  and  black.    Each  of  these  can  furnish  a 
great  number  of  shades,  from  the  lightest  to  the 
darkest ;  and  from  the  combination  of  two  or- 
more  of  these  diff^Tcnt  shades,  arise  all  the  co- 
lours in  nature.     Colours  are  often  darkened,  oP 
made   light,  or  considerably  changed,   by  in. 
gredients  that  have   no  colour  in  themselves  ; 
such  are  the  acid,  the  alkalis,   and  the  neutral 
salts,  lime,   urine,    arsenic,    ahum,  and   some 
others  ;  and  in  the  greatest  part  of  dyes,  the  wool 
and  woollen  goods  are  prepared  with  some  of 
these  ingredients  which  of  themselves  give  little 
or  no  colour.  ^  It  may  easily  be  conceived  what 
an  infinite  variety  must  arise  from  the  mixture 
of  these  different  matters,  or  even  from  the  man- 
ner of  using  them  ;  and  what  attention  must  be 
given  to  the  minutest  circumstances,  so  as  per- 
fectly to  succeed  in  an  art  so  complicated,  and  in 
which  there  are  many  difficulties. 
It  is  not  needful  to  be  very  particular  in  des* 


9Q  INTRODUCTJ^OJTv 

cribing  the  utensils  of  a  dye-house,  as  they  ai^fe 
commonly  known ;  this  work   being  designed 
for  the  experienced  dyer»  A  dye-house  should, 
however,  be  erected  on  a  spacious  plan,  roofed 
over,  but  admitting  a  good  light,  and  as  nigh  as 
possible  to  a  running  water,  which  is  very  neces- 
S'ciry,  either  to  prepare  the  wool  before  it  is  dyed, 
or  to  wash  it  afterwards.     The  coppers  should 
be  set  at  thedistance  of  eight  or  ten  feet,  and  two 
or  more  vats  for  the  blue,  according  to  the 
quantity  of  w^ork  that  is  to  be  carried  on. 
^  The  most  important  point  in  dying  the  primi-^ 
live  blue  is  to  set  the  vat  properly  at  work,  and 
conduct  her  till  she  is  in  a  state  to  yield  her  blue. 
The  size  of  the  woad  vat  is  not  fixed,  as  it  de- 
pends upon  necessity  or  pleasure.     A  vat  con- 
taining a  hogshead,  or  half  that  quantity,  has 
often  been  used  with  success,  but  then  they 
must  be  prevented  by  some  means  from  cool- 
ing too  suddenly,  otherwise  these  small  vats 
will  fail. 

Another  kind  of  vat  it  prepared  for  bluet 
this  is  called  the  indigo  vat,  because  it  is  the  in^ 
digo  alone  that  gives  it  the  colour.  Those  thai 
use  the  woad  vat  do  not  comm^only  use  the  indi- 
go one. 

There  are  two  methods  of  dying  wool  of  any 
colour  ;  the  one  is  called  dying  in  the  great,  the 
other  in  the  lesser  die.  The  first  is  done  by 
means  of  drugs  or  ingredients  that  procure  a 
lasting  dye,  resist  the  action  of  the  air  and  sun, 
and  are  not  easily  stained  by  sharp  or  corrosive 
liquors.  The  contrary  happens  to  colours  of 
the  lesser  dye.  The  air  fades  them  in  a  short 
time,  more  particularly  if  exposed  to  the  sun  ; 
most  liquors  stain  them,  so  as  to  make  them 
lose  their  first  colour.  It  is  extraordinary  that, 
as  there  is  a  method  of  making  all  kinds  of  co- 
laurs  by  the  great  dye,  the  use  of  the  lesser 


INTRODUCTION.  99^ 

i&hould  be  tolerated  ;  but  three  reasons  make  it 
difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  prevent  this  prac- 
tice. 

1st,  The  work  is  much  easier.  Most  colours 
and  shades  which  give  the  greatest  trouble  . 
the  great,  are  easily  carried  on  in  die  lesser  dye. 

2d,  Most  colours  in  the  lesser  are  more  bright 
and  lively  than  those  of  the  great. 

3d,  For  this  reason,  which  carries  more  weighty 
the  lesser  dye  is  carried  on  much  cheaper  than 
the  great.  This  is  sufficient  to  determine  some 
men  to  do  all  in  their  power  to  carry  it  on  in  pre- 
ference to  the  other.  Hence  it  is  that  the  true 
knowledge  of  chymistry,  to  which  the  art  of  dy- 
ing owes  its  origin,  is  of  so  much  use. 

It  may  be  observed,  that  all  lasting  colours 
are  called  colours  of  the  great,  and  the  others  of 
the  lesser  dye.  Sometimes  the  first  are  called 
fine,  and  the  latter  false  colours  ;  but  these  ex- 
pressions are  equivocal,  for  the  fine  are  some- 
times confounded  with  the  high  colours,  which 
are  those  in  whose  composition  cochineal  en- 
ters;  therefore,  to  avoid  all  obscurity  I  shall 
mention  them  distinctly  and  separately  in  their 
places  hereafter. 

Experiments,  (which  are  the  best  guides  in 
natural  philosophy  as  well  as  arts)  plainly  shew 
that  the  difference  of  colours,  according  to  the 
foregoing  distinction,  partly  depends  on  the  pre- 
paration of  the  subject  that  is  to  be  dyed,  and 
partly  on  the  choice  of  the  ingredients  which 
are  afterwards  used  to  give  it  the  colour.  I 
therefore  think  it  may  be  laid  down  as  a  general 
principle,  that  all  the  invisible  process  of  dying 
consists  in  dilating  the  pores  of  the  body  that  is 
to  be  dyed,  and  depositing  therein  particles  of  a 
foreign  matter,  which  are  to  be  detained  by  a 
kind  of  cement  which  prevents  the  sun  or  rain  from 
changing  them.  To  make  choice  of  the  colour- 


lOO'  IJ^TRODUCTION- 

ing  particles  of  such  a  durability  that  they  may 
be  retained,  and  sufficiently  set  in  the  pores  of 
the  subject  opened  by  the  heat  of  boiling  water, 
then  contracted  by  the  cold,  and  afterwards 
plaistered  over  with  a  kind  of  cement  left  behind 
with  the  salt  used  for  their  preparation,  that  the 
pores  of  the  wool  or  woollen  stuff  ought  to  be 
cleansed,  enlarged,  cemented  and  then  contract- 
ed, that  the  colouring  atom  may  be  contained  ia 
a  lasting  manner. 

Experiments  also  shew  that  there  is  no  co- 
louring ingredient  belonging  to  the  great  dye 
which^  has  not  more  or  less  an  astringent  and 
precipitant  quality.  That  this  is  sufficient  to  se- 
parate  the  earth,  of  the  allum ;  this  earth  joined  to 
the  colouring  atoms,  forms  a  kind  oflacque, 
similar  to  that  used  by  the  painters,  but  infi- 
nitely finer.  That  in  bright  colours,  such  as 
scarlet,  where  allum  cannot  be  used,  another 
body  must  be  substituted  to  supply  the  colour- 
ing atoms  (block-tin  gives  this  basis  to  the  scar- 
let dye-)  When  all  these  small  atoms  of  earthy 
coloured  lacque  have  insinuated  themselves 
into  the  pores  of  the  subject  that  is  dilated,  the 
cement  which  the  tartar  leaves  behind  serves  to 
masticate  these  atoms  ;  and  lastly,  the  contract- 
ing of  the  pores,  caused  by  the  cold,  serves  to 
retain  them. 

It  is  certain  that  the  colours  of  the  false  dye 
have  that  defect  only  because  the  subject  is  not 
sufficiently  prepared;  so  that  the  colouring 
particles  being  only  deposited  on  its  plain  sur* 
face,  it  is  impossible  but  the  least  action  of  the 
air  or  sun  must  deprive  them  of  part  if  not  of 
the  whole.  If  a  method  was  discovered  to  give 
to  the  colouring  parts  of  dying  woods,  the  neces- 
sary astriction  which  they  require,  and  if  the 
wool  at  the  same  time  was  prepared  to  receive 
Ihem,  (as  it  is  the  red  of  madder}  I  am  conviac*. 


iNTRODUCTlOi;.  101 

ed,  by  thirty  experiments,  that  these  woods 
might  be  made  as  useful  in  the  great,  astthey 
have  hitherto  been  in  the  lesser  dye. 

What  I  have  said  shall  be  applied  in  the  se- 
quel of  this  treatise,  where  I  shall  shew  what  en- 
gaged  me  to  use  them  as  general  principles. 

I  should  have  been  glad  to  have  seen  a  work 
of  this  sort,  (knowing  the  great  need  there  is  o£ 
a  chyiT^ical  understanding  of  this  art)  signed  by 
the  name  of  some  person  of  distinction,  to  have 
given  it  a  better  face.  I  dare  nor  flatter  myself 
to  have  brought  it  to  its  last  perfection,  as  arts 
daily  improve,  and  this  in  particular;  but  I. 
hope  some  acknovvledgment  will  be  due  tome 
for  bringing  this  matter  a  little  further  out  oC 
that  obscurity  in  which  it  has  laid,  and  for  as. 
sisting  the  dyers  in  making  discoveries  to  hel^ 
to  perfect  this  most  useful  art. 

I  shall  now  proceed  to  examine  the  five  pri^ 
mary  colours  above  mentioned,  and  give  the 
different  methods  of  preparing  them  after  the 
most  solid  and  permanent  manner. 

The  materials  of  which  cloths  are  made,  for. 
the  most  part  are  naturally  of  dull  and  gloomy 
colours.  Garments  would  consequently  hava 
had  a  disagreeable  uniformity,  if  this  art  had  no£ 
been  found  out  to  remedy  it,  and  vary  their 
shades.  The  accidental  bruising  of  fruits  06 
herbs,  the  effect  of  rain  upon  certain  earths  and 
minerals  might  suggest  the  first  hint  of  the  art  of 
dying,  and  of  the  materials  proper  for  it.  Every- 
climate  furnishes  man  with  ferruginous  earths,- 
wdth  boles  of  all  colours,  with  saline  and  vegeta- 
ble materials  for  this  art.  The  difficulty  must 
have  been  to  find  the  art  of  applying  them.  But 
how  many  trials  and  essays  must  have  been: 
made,  before  they  found  out  the  most  proper  me-c 
thods  of  applying  them  to  stuff's,  so  astostaiix 
ijiem  with  beautiful  and  lasting  colour^.?    j[ty 


102  INTRODUCTION* 

this  consists  the  principal  excellence  of  the 
dyer's  art,  one  of  the  most  ingenious  and  difficult 
which  we  know. 

Dying  is  performed  by  means  of  limes,  salts, 
waters,  lies,  ferrnentations,  macerations,  &c.  It 
is  certain  that  dying  is  very  ancient.  The  Chi- 
nese pretend  that  they  owe  the  discovery  of  it  to 
Hoan-ti,  one  of  their  first  sovereigns. 

One  of  the  most  agreeable  effects  of  the  art  of 
dying,  is  the  diversifying  die  colours  of  stuftso 
There  are  two  ways  by  which  this  agreeable 
variety  is  produced,  either  by  needle- work  widi 
threads  of  different  colours,  on  an  uniform 
ground,  or  by  making  use  of  yam  of  different 
colours  in  the  weaving. 

The  first  of  these  in\'entions  is  attributed  to 
the  Phrygians,  a  very  ancient  nation  ;  the  last 
to  the  Babylonians.  Many  things  incline  us  to 
think  that  these  arts  were  known  even  in  the 
times  of  which  we  are  now  treating.  The  great 
progress  these  arts  had  made  in  the  days  of  Mo. 
ses,  supposes  that  they  bad  been  discovered  long 
before.  It  appears  to  me  certain,  then,  that 
the  arts  of  embroidery  or  weaving  stuffs  of  va- 
rious colours  were  invented  in  the  ages  we  are 
now  upon.  But  I  shall  not  insist  on  the  man- 
ner in  which  they  were  then  practised,  as  I  can 
say  nothing  satisfactory  upon  that  subject. 

Another  art  nearly  related  to  that  of  dying,  is 
^at  of  cleaning  and  whitening  garments,  when 
they  have  been  stained  and  sullied.  Water 
;done  is  not  sufficient  for  this-  We  must  com- 
municate to  it  by  means  of  powders,  ashes,  &c. 
that  detersive  quality  which  is  necessary  to  ex- 
tract  the  stains  which  they  have  contracted. 
The  ancients  knew  nothing  of  soap,  but  suppli- 
ed the  want  of  it  by  various  means.  Job  speaks 
of  washing  his  garments  in  a  pit  with  the  herb 
bgritb*    This  pass^e  shows  that  the  method  of 


INTRODUCTION-.  i03 

cleaning  garments  in  these  ages,  was  by  throw- 
ing them  into  a  pit  full  of  water,  impregnated 
with  some  kind  of  ashes ;  a  niethod  which  seems 
to  have  been  very  universal  in  these  first  times. 
Homer  describes  Nausicaa  and  her  companions 
washing  their  garments,  by  treading  them  with 
their  feet  in  a  pit. 

With  respect  to  the  herb  which  Job  calls 
borith,  I  imagine  it  is  salworth.^  This  plant  is 
very  common  in  Syria,  Judea,  Egpyt,  and  Ara- 
bia- They  burn  it,  and  pour  water  upon  the 
ashes.  This  water  becomes  impregnated  with 
a  very  strong  lixivial  salt  proper  for  taking  stains 
or  impurities  out  of  wool  or  cloth. 

The  Greeks  and  Romans  used  several  kinds 
of  earths  and  plants  instead  of  soap.  The  sava- 
ges of  America  make  a  kind  of  soap-water  of 
certain  fruits,  with  which  they  wash  their  cot- 
ton-beds and  other  stuffs.  In  Iceland  the  wo- 
men make  a  lie  of  ashes  and  urine.  The  Per- 
sians employ  boles  and  marls.  In  many  coun- 
tries  they  find  earths,  which,  dissol  *ed  in  water, 
have  the  property  of  cleaning  and  whitening 
cloth  and  linen.  AH  these  methods  might  per* 
haps  be  practiced  in  the  primitive  ages.  The 
necessities  of  all  mankind  are  much  the  same, 
and  all  climates  present  them  with  nearly  the 
sarne  resources.  It  is  the  art  of  applying  them, 
which  distinguishes  polite  and  civilized  nations 
from  savages  and  barbarians. 

I  shall  leave  all  to  itself,  and  to  every  man  li- 
berty to  approve  or  disapprove  as  he  pleases,  and 
however  they  determine  the  author  vail  not  be 
much  troubled,  for  he  is  certain  no  man  can 
have  a  lighter  esteem  for  him,thanhe  hasforhim- 
self;  he  however,  will  be  well  pleased  if  any  man 
shall  find  benefit  by  what  he  has  written.  If  any 
should  alledge  a  general  opposition,  that  to  the 
author,  will  be  no  privating  argument ;  he  does 


104  IKTRODUCTION* 

not  plead  the  importunity  of  friends,  for  t& 
publication  of  this  ;  if  it  is  worthy  it  needs  no 
apology,  if  not,  let  it  be  despised ;  and  I  remam 
the  same  friend  to  trade. 

ELIJAH  BEMIS.?,- 


APPENDIX,  cSV. 
CHAPTER  L 

ON  BLUE  DYING. 

BLUE  among  all  colours  is  the  most  difficult 
to  set  up  and  manage,  it  is  one  of  the  five  ma« 
terial  or  primitive  colours.  In  the  preceding 
work  it  is  to  be  observed,  that  the  rule  given  is 
calculated  for  cloth  generally  :  in  this  I  shall 
give  the  process  for  wool,  for  that  is  to  be  pre« 
ferred,  and  the  most  sure  and  the  only  way  blue 
ought  to  be  coloured,  except  very  coarse  cloth  ; 
and  further,  I  have  given  in  the  preceding,  re- 
ceipts for  blue,  for  the  good  and  false  dye,  or  the 
greater  and  the  lesser  dye  ;  in  the  good  dye  we 
are  not  furnished  but  two  drugs  that  give  a  per» 
manent  blue,  and  they  are,  indigo  and  woad,  or 
pastel,  and  these  lir;ht  and  fleaty  substances, 
were  it  not  for  the  power  of  fixed  alkalis,  which 
rouses  and  gives  life  to  the  colouring  atom  or 
substance,  and  separates  it  from  the  earth  it  con» 
tains  ;  I  shall  leave  this  for  further  explanation. 

The  lesser  dye  is  obtained  from  logwood 
with  assisting  subjects,  and  depends  on  the 
powers  of  the  alkali  and  acid,  as  you  may  sec 
in  my  preceding  observations  on  blue  with  log- 
wood ;  it  is  further  to  be  observed,  in  the  pre- 
ceding observations  on  the  properties  and  effects 
ofdyesanddye  stuft^,  that  I  have  classed  the 
colours  into  five  material  or  primitive  colours  ; 
which  are,  blue,  j^ellow,  red,  brown,  and  black  ; 
ail  other  shades  are  depending  on  these  as  their 
mothers  or  princesses,  and  these  five  colours  are 
depending  on  three  monarchial  pov/ers,  which 
-lave  but-  little  or  no  alliance  v/ith  each  othe.r, 
K2 


iQG  APPE'NDIX  TO  XH£ 

except  it  is  by  the  intercourse  of  some  neutraV 
power.  The  names  of  the  powers  are  the  alkali, 
acid,  and  corrosive,  and  all  their  subjects  rest 
mild  and  easy  under  them,  and  have  a  friendly 
correspondence  and  never  are  at  variance,except  it 
is  by  the  interference  of  the  powers;  when  it  hap- 
pens, there  can  be  no  peace  or  negociation  only 
by  the  assistance  of  a  neutral  power.  I  shall 
give  further  explanations  on  this  subject  in  the 
.sequel ;  showing  the  connexion  of  colours  by 
twos,  and  by  threes,  and  their  dep>endencies  with 
the  dying  subjects  and  the  subjects  to  be  dyed. 

To  return  to  the  blue  ;  1st.  it  is  necessary  to 
pay  some  attention  to  the  vat,  and  utensils  used 
in  blue  dying.  2nd,  The  explanation  on  the 
articles  used  in  the  blue  dye,  ho\v  prepared, 
and  its  effects,  &c.  3d.  Giye  a  brief  account 
by  way  of  receipts,  of  the  modern  forms  as 
practised  in  general  in  the  largest  manufactories 
of  America,  and  the  general  practice  in  England 
and  France,  by  the  most  noted  dyers  in 
Europe,  &c. 

The  vat  and  utensils  used  in  blue  dying. — The 
vat  must  be  in  size  and  proportion  as  your  bu. 
siness  requires,  from  eight  to  twenty. four  bar- 
rels ;  the  fashion  and  forms  are  various  accord- 
ing  to  fancy,  but  I  shall  point  out  the  modes 
most  applicable,  and  easiest  to  manage  and  des- 
patch business.  The  best  and  cheapest  v/ay  to 
make  a  vat ;  have  the  bottom  of  cast  iron  about 
two  and  a  half  feet  deep,  with  a  flange  on  the  out- 
side about  four  inches  from  the  top,  then  raise  it 
to  five  or  five  and  a  half  feet,  with  staves  made 
of  pine  plank  two  inches  thick,  hooped  w  ith 
iron  hoops  and  fastened  to  the  upper  edge  of 
the  iron  kettle;  when  thus  prepared,  place  it 
in  the  dy6-house,  where  it  will  be  the  most  ad- 
vantageous  to  work  at,  set  it  with  convenience 
for  heating,  with  a  flew  raised  with  briejk  to  keep 


107 

tht  dye  at  a  proper  heat,  &c.  Some  have  them 
of  lead  and  have  them  set,  but  it  is  expensive 
and  liable  to  melt  and  burst ;  others  use  copper 
caldrons,  which  ought  not  to  be  admitted,  for 
the  alkali  corrodes  the  copper  and  has  a  bad  ef- 
fect on  the  dye.  The  next  thing  necessary  is  a 
large  iron  boiler,  that  will  contain  half  as  much 
as  your  vat,  set  for  the  convenience  of  heating 
near  the  vat,  for  the  purpose  of  setting  and  re- 
cruiting your  dye,  and  immersing  your  goods 
in  warm  water;  and  a  large  tub  that  will  hold 
the  remainder  of  your  dye.  The  next  thing 
necessary  is  a  small  iron  kettle,  say  about  a  bar- 
rel, set  convenient  for  heating,  for  a  preparation 
kettle  to  dissolve  potash,  &c. ;  another  kettle  is 
necessary,  say  the  size  of  six  ^  gallons,  for  the 
purpose  of  grinding  indigo  with  two  eighteen 
pound  cannon  balls  ;  the  form,  have  the  bottom 
rounding  that  the  indigo  may  settle  under  the 
balls,  and  the  point  of  the  standard  placed  in 
the  centre  with  a  cross  to  turn  the  balls.  The 
iiext,  a  copper  ladle  with  a  long  handle,  to  dip 
to  the  bottom  of  the  vat,  to  hold  two  gallons ;  a 
copper  skimmer  with  a  handle  suiFicient  to  reach 
to  the  bottom,  to  take  up  the  ground,  say  eigh- 
teen inches  diameter  ;  a  smaller  one  to  take 
off  the  flury  or  head,  and  a  small  tub  to  contain 
it.  The  next  thing  necessary  for  dying  wool, 
is  a  net  sufficient  to  contain  the  wool,  and  strung 
with  a  cord  the  width  of  the  vat,  and  its  depth 
within  two  feet  of  the  bottom,  but  not  so  as  to 
touch  the  ground.  There  is  another  form  of  vat 
and  utensils  used  for  blue  dying,  explained  in 
the  preceding  work  in  receipt  No.  1,  for  dy- 
ing cloth;  the  rake,  the  jack  for  wringing,  the 
screen,  the  handlers,  the  folding  and  cooling 
board,  &c.  &.c.  The  cold  indigo  vat  with  urine, 
does  not  require  to  be  set  in  the  ground,  neitheir 
a  ilev/  around  it,  but  set  in  the  dye-house  as  is 


108  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

most  convenient  to  work  at.  All  woollen  blue 
di^es  require  to  have  a  tight  cover,  and  clouted 
with  cloths  to  prevent  the  evaporation  of  the 
volatile  fluid.  The  cotton  vats  are  set  quite  dif- 
ferent if  worked  cold,  which  I  shall  describe 
hereafter. 

The  7nethoil  of  fireliaring  goodzfor  blue  ;  and  an  cxfila- 
nation  of  the  dye  stuffs^  how  firefiared  and  its  effects. 

WHEN  the  vat  is  once  prepared  and  come  to 
ivork,  the  dying  of  wool  or  stuffs  is  easy.  Wet  them 
well  in  clear  warm  water,  with  one  quarter  of 
a  pound  pearlash  to  every  40  pound  of  wool, 
wringing  and  dippingthem  in  the  vat,  and  keep, 
ing  them  in  more  or  less  time,  according  as  the 
colour  is  required  in  shade.  From  time  to  time 
the  stuff  is  aired  ;  that  is,  taken  out  of  the  vat 
and  wrung,  so  that  the  liquor  may  fall  back 
into  the  vat,  and  exposed  a  little  to  the  air, 
which  takes  off  the  green  in  one  or  two  minutes  ; 
for  let  Xvhat  vat  soever  be  used,  the  stuff  is  al- 
ways  green  at  its  coming  out,  and  only  takes 
the  bhie  colour  in  proportion  as  the  air  acts  ujxDn 
it.  It  is  also  very  necessary  to  let  the  green  go 
off  before  it  is  returned  into  tlie  liquor  to  receive 
a  second  shade,  as  being  then  better  able  to 
/fudge  of  its  colour,  and  know  if  it  is  requisite 
to  give  v.^iat  is  called  one  or  several  turnings. 

It  is  an  ancient  custom  among  dyers  to  reck» 
on  thirteen  shades  of  blue  from  the  deepest  to 
the  lightest.  Although  their  denominations  be 
somewhat  arbitrary,  and  that  it  is  impossible 
exactly  to  fix  the  just  passage  from  one  to  the 
other,  I  shall  notwithstanding  give  the  names. 
They  are  as  follow,  beginning  v/ith  the  lightest ; 
milk-blue,  pearl- blue,  pale-blue,  flat-blue,  mid- 
dliiig-blue5sky-blue,queen's-blue,turkish.bluej 
watchet-biue,  garter^  blue,  mazareen-blue^deep- 
blue,  and  ¥^ry  deep  or  navy-blue. 


These  distinctions  are  not  equally  received 
by  all  dyers,  nor  in  all  provinces,  but  the  most 
part  are  known  ;  and  it  is  the  only  method 
that  can  be  taken  to  give  an  idea  of  the  same 
colour,  whose  only  difference  is  in  being  more 
or  less  deep* 

It  is  easy  to  make  deep  blues*  I  have  alrea- 
dy said,  that  to  effect  this,  the  wool  or  stuffs  are 
to  be  returned  several  times  into  the  vat ;  but 
it  is  not  so  in  respect  to  light  blues  ;  for  when 
the  vat  is  rightly  come  to  work,  the  wool  can 
seldom  be  left  in  short  time  enough,  but  that  it 
takes  more  than  the  shade  required.  It  often 
happens  when  a  certain  quantity  of  wool  is  to 
be  dipped,  and  that  it  cannot  all  be  put  in  at 
the  same  time,  that  what  goes  in  at  fic^st  is  deep- 
er than  the  other.  There  are  some  dyers  who, 
to  obviate  this  inconveniency  in  making  very 
light  blues,  which  they  call  milk  and  water^ 
take  some  of  the  liquor  of  the  indigo  vat,  and 
dilute  it  in  a  very  great  quantity  of  lukewarm 
water ;  but  this  method  is  a  bad  one,  for  the 
wool  died  in  this  mixture  has  not  near  so  lasting 
a  colour  as  that  dyed  in  the  vat ;  as  the  altering 
ingredients  w^hich  are  put  into  the  vat  with  the 
indigo,  serves  as  much  to  dispose  the  pores  of 
the  subject  which  is  dipped  in,  as  to  the  open- 
ing of  the  colouring  fecula  which  is  to  dye  it, 
their  concourse  being  necessary  for  the  ad- 
hesion of  the  colour.  The  best  method  of  mak- 
ing these  very  light  blues,  is  to  pass  them  ei- 
ther in  a  woad  or  indigo  vat,  out  of  which  the 
colour  has  been  worked,  and  begins  to  cool. 
The  woad  vat  is  still  preferable  to  that  of  the 
indigo,  as  it  does  not  dye  so  soon. 

The  blues  made  in  vats  that  have  been  work- 
ed are  duller  than  the  others  ;  but  they  may  be 
pretty  sensibly  roused  by  passing  the  wool  or 


110  AJfPENDIX  TO  THE  . 

Stuffs  in  boiling  water.  ^  This  practice  is  even 
necessary  to  the  perfection  of  all  blue  shades  ; 
by  this  the  colour  is  not  only  made  brighter, 
but  also  rendered  more  secure,  by  taking  off  all 
tliat  is  not  well  incorporated  with  the  wool ;  it 
also  prevents  its  spotting  the  hands  or  linen, 
xvhich  commonly  happens,  and  the  dyers,  to 
gain  time,  neglect  this  precaution.  After  the 
v/ool  is  taken  out  of  the  warm  water,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  wash  it  again  in  the  river,  or  at  least  in 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  water  for  the  carrying  off 
all  the  superlluous  loose  dye. 

The  best  method  to  render  the  blue  dye 
brighter,  is  by  filling  them  with  a  thin  liquor  of 
raelted  soap,  and  afterwards  cleansing  them  from 
the  soap  l:^;^  vvarm  water,  and,  if  convenient,  by 
rinsing  them  in  an  old  cochineal  liquor.  This 
method  is- to  be  taken  with  deep  blues  ;  but  if 
the  same  was  taken  with  very  light  blues,  they 
would  lose  their  bright  blue  lustre,  and  incline 
to  grey. 

I  hope  to  have  removed  all  difficulties  on  the 
preparation  of  blue,  and  in  the  method  of  dying 
it.  Some  dyers,  for  the  sake  of  gain,  spare  the 
woad  and  indigo,  and  use  for  blue,  archil-log- 
wood,  and  brazil  :  this  ought  to  be  expressly 
forbid,  though  this  adulterated  blue  is  often 
brighter  than  a  lasting  and  legitimate  blue. 
This  is  to  be  noticed  in  the  receipts,  treating 
on  the  lesser  die, 

I  shall  now  explain  the  theory  of  the  invisible 
change  of  the  blue  dye.  This  colour,  w^hich  I 
shall  here  only  consider  ia  relation  to  its  use  in 
the  dying  of  stufis  of  what  kind  soever,  has 
hitherto  been  extracted  only  from  the  vegetable 
world,  and  it  does  not  appear  that  we  can  hope 
to  use  in  this  art  the  blues  the  painters  employ: 
such  are  the  Prussian  blue,  whiqh  holds  of  the 


-dyer's  companion.  Ill 

f-animal  and  mineral  kincl^  ;  the  azure,  wliicli  is 
a  vitrified  mineral  substance  ;  the  ultramarine, 
which  is  prepared  from  a  hard  stone  ;  the  earths 
that  have  a  blue  colour,  &c-  These  matters 
cannot,  without  losing  their  colour  in  whole 
or  in  part,  be  reduced  into  atoms  sufficiently 
minute,  so  as  to  be  suspended  in  the  saline  li- 
quid, which  must  penetrate  the  fibres  of  the  ani- 
mal and  vegetable  substances  of  which  stuffs  are 
manufactured;  for  under  this  name  linen  and 
cotton  cloths  must  be  comprehended?  as  well  as 
those  wove  of  silk  and  wool. 

Hitherto  we  know  but  of  two  plants  that  yield 
blue  after  their  preparation  :  the  one  is  the  isatis 
or  glaustum,  which  is  called  pastel  in  Langue- 
doc,  and  woad  in  Normandy.    Their  prepara- 
tion consists  in  a  fermentation  continued  even  to 
the  putrefaction  of  all  the  parts  of  the  plant,  the 
root  excepted  ;  and  consequently  in  the  unfold- 
ing of  all  their  principles  into  a  new  combination, 
and  fresh  order  of  these  same  principles,  from 
whence  follows  an  union  of  infinite  fine  particles, 
which,  applied  to  any  subject  whatever,  reflects 
the  light  on  them  very  different  from  what  it 
would  be,  if  these  same  particles  were  still  join, 
ed  to  those  which  the  fermentation  has  sepa- 
rated. *^ 
The  other  plant  is  the  anil,  which  is  cultivat- 
ed in  the  East  and  West  Indies,  out  of  which 
they  prepare  that  fecula  that  is  sent  to  Europe 
under  the  name  of  indigo.    In  the  preparation 
of  this  plant  the  Indians  and  Americans,  have 
found  out  the  art  of  separating  only  the  colouring 
parts  of  the  plant  from  the  useless  ones ;  and  the 
French  and  Spanish  colonies  have  imitated  them, 

*  1748,  Mons.  Macquer,  of  the  Royal  Academy  of 
Sciences,  found  the  means  of  using  the  Prussian  blue  to  dye 
silk  and  cloth,  in  a  blue  whose  brightness  surpassed  all  th^j 
blues  hitherto  J^nown. 


112'  APPEKDIK   'fO  TH^ 

and  thereby  made  a  considerable  increase  of 
commerce. 

That  the  indigo,  such  as  is  exported  from 
America,  should  deposite  on  wool  or  stuffs  the 
colouring  parts  required  by  the  dyer,  it  is  infus- 
ed several  ways,  the  processes  of  which  will  be 
given  in  the  seqtieL  They  may  be  reduced  to 
three  ;  the  cold  indigo  vat  may  serve  for  thread 
and  cotton  ;  those  that  are  made  use  of  hot,  arc 
iit  for  stuffs  of  any  kind  whatever. 

In  the  cold  vat,  the  indigo  is  mixed  with 
pearlash,  copperas  or  green  vitriol,  lime,  mad- 
der, and  bran.  The  hot  vats  are  either  prepar- 
with  water  or  urine ;  if  with  water,  pearlash 
or  potash,  and  a  little  madder  must  be  added  ;  if 
with  urine,  allum  and  tartar  must  be  joined  to 
the  indigo.  Both  of  these  vats,  principally  in- 
tended for  wool,  require  a  moderate  degree  of 
heat,  but  at  the  same  time  strong  enough  for  the 
wool  to  take  a  lasting  dye,  I  mean  such  as  will 
withstand  the  destroying  action  of  the  air  and 
sun,  the  proof  of  dyes. 

I  have  prepared,  as  I  said  before,  these  three 
vats  in  small,  in  cylindrical  glass  vessels,  expos- 
ed to  the  light,  in  order  to  see  what  passed  be- 
fore the  infusio;!  came  to  a  colour,  that  is  whe- 
ther it  was  green  beneath  the  flurry  at  the  sur- 
face, which  is  a  sign  of  internal  fermentation.^  I 
have  said  that  the  green  colour  of  the  liquor  is  a 
condition  absolutely  essential,  and  without 
which  the  colour  the  stuff  would  take  would 
not  be  a  good  dye,  and  w^ould  almost  entirely 
disappear  on  the  least  proofs. 

I  shall  now  give  a  description  of  the  cold  indi- 
go vat  in  small,  for  the  changes  are  much  better 
seen  in  her,  and  for  this  reason,  that  what  hap- 
pens in  the  two  others  is  not  very  essentially  dif- 
ferent. It  is  proper  to  take  notice,  that  vvhat  I 
shall  c?[\\part,  in  this  observation  of  exBeruneiUJs, 


BYER^S  -COMPANION.  llS 

is  a  measure  of  the  weight  of  four  drachms,  of 
all  matter  either  liquid  or  solid,  and  that  it  will 
be  this  quantity  that  must  be  supposed,  each 
time  that  I  use  that  word  in  the  detail  of  these 
experiments. 

I  put  three  hundred  parts  of  water  into  a  ves- 
sel, containing  five  hundred  and  twelve,  or  eight 
quarts,  in  which  I  dissolved  six  parts  of  cop- 
peras,  which  gave  the  liquor  a  yellow  dye.  Six 
parts  of  potash  were  also  dissolved  by  them- 
selves in  thirty-six  parts  of  water.  The  solu- 
tion made,  I  digested  in  it  six  parts,  or  three 
ounces,  of  indigo  of  St.  Domingo  well  ground  ; 
it  was  left  over  a  very  gentle  fire  three  hours. 
The  indigo  swelled,  and  taking  up  a  larger  space, 
rose  from  the  bottom  of  this  alkaline  liquor,  with 
which  it  formed  a  kind  of  thick  syrup,  which 
%vas  blue.  This  was  a  proof  that  the  indigo  was 
only  divided,  but  not  dissolved;  for  had  its  so« 
lution  been  perfect,  that  thick  liquor  would 
have  been  green  instead  of  blue ;  for  all  liquor 
that  has  been  tinged  blue  by  a  vegetable  of  any 
kind,  grows  green  on  the  admixion  of  an  alka- 
line salt,  either  concrete  or  in  a  liquid  form, 
whether  it  be  a  fixed  of  volatile. 

From  hence  the  reason  is  discovered  why  in- 
digo does  not  dye  a  stuff  of  a  lasting  blue  when 
its  liquor  is  not  green  ;  for  its  solution  not  be- 
ing complete,  the  alkali  cannot  act  upon  these 
fiirst  elementary  particles  ;  as  for  example,  it 
acts  on  the  tincture  of  violets,  which  is  a  per- 
fect solution  of  the  colouring  parts  of  those 
flowers,  which  it  turns  green  in  an  instant,  and 
on  the  first  contact. 

^  I  poured  this  thick  blue  liquor  into  the  solu- 
tion of  vitriol,  and  after  well  shaking  the  mix- 
ture, I  added  six  parts  of  lime  that  had  beeri 
slacked  in  the  air  ;  it  was  cold  weather  when 
Ihis  experiment  was  made;  the  thermometer 

Li 


il4  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

was  at  two  degrees  under  the  freezing  point, 
'which  was  the  cause  that  this  was  near  four 
days  coming  to  a  colour,  and  the  fermentation, 
which  must  naturally  ensue  in  all  vitriolic  li- 
quor, where  an  alkaline  salt  has  been  put  in, 
such  as  potash,  and  an  alkaline  earth,  was 
carried  on  with  so  much  slowness  that  very  lit- 
tle scum  appeared  on  the  surface  of  the  liquor. 
In  a  hot  season,  and  by  making  use  of  lime 
newly  calcined,  these  kind  of  vats  are  some- 
times fit  to  dye  in  four  hours. 

Each  time  I  stirred  the  mixture  with  a  spa- 
tula, I  observed  tliat  the  iron  of  the  vitriol  or 
copperas  was  the  first  that  precipitated  to  the 
bottom  of  the  vessel,  and  that  the  alkaline  salt 
had  precipitated  it  to  join  itself  to  the  acid. 
Thus  in  this  process  of  the  cold  indigo  vat,  a 
tartar  of  vitriol  after  the  manner  of  Tachenius 
is  formed  ;  whereas  by  the  common  method 
of  preparing  this  neutral  salt,  the  acid  of  vitriol 
is  poured  on  a  true  alkaline  salt,  such  as  pot- 
ash. This  again  is  a  circumstance  that  leads 
insensibly  to  the  theory  of  the  good  dye.  ^  I  de- 
sire the  reader  to  take  notice  of  this,  as  it  will 
occur  in  the  sequel  of  this  observation,  as  well 
-us  in  other  chapters. 

The  earthy  parts  of  the  lime  precipitate  next 
after  the  iron  ;  they  are  easily  distinguished  by 
the  whiteness,  which  are  yet  difficult  to  distin- 
guish when  the  colouring  parts  of  the  indigo 
are  sufficiently  loosened.  In  short,  under  this 
white  earth  the  fecula  of  the  indigo  deposites  it- 
self, and  by  degrees  rarifies  in  such  a  manner, 

hat  this  substance,  which  the  first  day  was  only 
the  eighth  of  an  inch  above  the  precipitated 
lime,  rose  insensibly  within  half  an  inch  of  the 

surface  of  the  liquor,  and  the  third  day  grew 

so  opaque  and  muddy,  that  nothing   further 

could  be  distuiguiohed. 


115 

This  rarefaction  of  the  indigo,  slow  in  winter, 
quick  in  summer,  and  which  may  be  accelerat- 
ed in  winter  by  heating  the  liquor  to  fifteen  or 
sixteen  degrees,  is  a  proof  that  a  real  fermenta  ^ 
tion  happens  in  the  mixture,  which  opens  the 
little  lumps  of  indigo,  and  divides  them  into 
particles  of  an  extreme  fineness  ;  then  their  sur- 
faces being  multiplied  almost  ad^  infinitum, ^  they 
are  so  much  the  more  equally  distributed  in  the 
liquor,  which  deposits  them  equally  on  the  sub- 
ject  dipped  in  to  take  the  dye. 

If  fermentation  comes  on  hastily,  or  in  a  few 
hours,  whether  on  account  of  the  heat  of  the  air, 
or  by  the  help  of  a  small  fire,  a  great  quantity  of 
flurry  appears  ;  it  is  blue,  and  its  reflection  they 
have  also  named  coppery,  because  the  colours  of 
the  rainbow  appear  in  it,  and  the  red  and  yel- 
low here  predominate  \  however  this  phcenome- 
non  is  not  peculiar  to  indigo,  since  the  same  re- 
flection  is  perceived  in  all  mixtures  that  are  in 
actual  fermentation,  and  particularly  in  those 
which  contain  fat  particles  blended  with  salts, 
urine,  soot,  and  several  other  bodies  put  into 
fermentation,  show  on  their  surfiice  the  same 
variegated  colours. 

The  flurry  of  the  indigo  Tat  appears  blue  be- 
cause  exposed  to  the  external  air,  but  if  a  small 
portion  of  the  liquor  which  is  under  it  be  taken 
up  witha  spoon,  it  appears  more  or  less  green  in 
proportion  as  it  is  filled  vvith  colouring  particles. 
In  the  course  of  this  observation,  I  shall  show 
the  reason  of  this  difference,  or,  at  least,  a  pro- 
bable explication  of  this  change  of  blue,  which, 
as  I  have  said  before,  is  absolutely  necessary  for 
succeeding  in  the  process  described. 

When  the  vat  is  in  this  state,  it  has  already 
been  said  that  cotton,  thread,  cloths  wove  from 
them,  &c.  may  be  dyed  in  her,  and  the  colours 
which  they  take  are  of  the  good  dye ;  that  is? 


116  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

this  cotton  and  thread  will  maintain  them,  evtn 
after  remaining  a  suitable  time  in  a  solution  of 
white  soap,  actually  boiling.  1  his  is  the  proof 
given  them  preferable  to  any  other,  because  the 
linen  and  cotton  cloths  must  be  washed  with 
soap  when  dirty. 

Though  the  indigo  liquor  which  is  in  this 
state  can  make  a  lasting  dye  without  the  addi- 
tion of  any  other  ingredients  ;  the  dyers  who  use 
this  cold  vat  add,  as  in  the  other  hot  vats,  a  de- 
eoction  of  madder  and  bran  in  common  v/atel- 
run  through  a  sieve  ;  this  is  what  they  call  be" 
ver.  They  put  rnadder  to  insure,  as  they  say, 
the  colour  of  the  indigo,  because  this  root  af- 
fords a  colour  so  adhesive  that  it  stands  all 
proofs  ;  they  put  the  bran  to  soften  the  w^ater, 
which  they  imagine  generally  to  contain  some 
portion  of  an  acid  salt,  which,  according  to  their 
opinion,  must  be  deadened, 

This  w'as  the  opinion  of  the  French  dyers 
» against  indigo  in  the  days  of  Monsieur  Colbert ; 
and  as  this  minister  could  not  spare  time  to  see 
the  experiments  performed  in  his  presence,  on 
the  foundation  of  this  report,  he  forbade  indigo 
to  be  used  alone.  But  since  the  government  has 
been  convinced,  by  new^  experiments  made  by 
the  late  Mr.  Dufay,  that  the  stability  of  the  blue 
dye  of  this  ingredient  w^as  such  as  could  be  de- 
sired ;  the  new  regulation  of  1737,  licences  the 
dyers  to  use  it  alone,  or  mixed  w  ith  woad  ;  so 
that  if  they  continue  to  use  the  madder,  it  is  ra- 
ther because  this  root  giving  a  pretty  deep  red, 
and  this  red  mixing  with  the  blue  of  the  indigo, 
gives  it  a  tint  which  approaches  the  violet,  and 
also  a  fine  hue. 

As  to  the  bran,  its  use' is  not  to  deaden  the 
pretended  acid  salts,  but  to  disperse  throughout 
a  quantity  of  sizey  matter ;  for  the  small  portion 
pf  flour  which  remains  in  it,  dividing  itself  into 


oyer's  companion.  117 

the  liquor,  must  diminish  in  some  measure  its 
fluidity,  and  consequently  prevent  the  colouring 
particles  which  are  suspended  in  it,  being  pre- 
cipitated too  quick,  in  a  liquor  which  had  not 
acquired  a  certain  degree  of  thickness. 

Notwithstanding  this  distributed  throughout 
the  liquor,  as  well  from  the  bran  as  the  madder, 
which  also  affords  something  glutinous,  the  co- 
louring particles  will  subside  if  the  liquor  re- 
mains some  days  without  being  stirred  ;  then 
the  top  of  the  liquor  gives  but  a  feeble  tint  to  the 
body  dipped  in,  and  if  a  strong  one  is  wanted,  the 
mixture  must  be  raked,  and  left  to  rest  an  hour 
or  two,  that  the  iron  in  the  copperas,  and  the 
gross  parts  of  the  lime  may  fall  to  the  bottom, 
which  otherwise  would  mix  with  the  true  co- 
louring particles,  and  prejudice  their  dye,  by 
depositing  on  the  body  to  be  dyed  a  substance 
that  would  have  but  little  adhesion,  which  in  driv- 
ing would  become  friable,  and  of  which  each 
minute  part  would  occupy  a  space,  v»  here  the 
true  colouring  particle  could  neither  introduce 
nor  deposite  itself  by  an  immediate  contact  on 
the  subject. 

Not  to  deviate  from  the  method  followed  by 
the  dyers,  I  boiled  one  part  of  grape^  madder 
and  one  of  bran,  in  174  parts  of  water  :  this  pro- 
portion  of  water  is  not  necessary,  more  or  less 
may  be  put,  but  I  v/anted  to  fill  my  vessel, 
which  contained  512  parts.  I  passed  this  bever 
through  a  cloth  and  squeezed  it  putting  this  li- 
quor,  still  hot,  and  which  was  of  a  blood-red,  into 
the  indigo  liquor,  observing  the  necessary  pre- 
cautions to  prevent  the  breaking  of  the  glass  ves- 
sel. The  whole  was  well  stirred,  and  two  hours 
after  the  liquor  was  green,  and  consequently  fit 
for  dying.  It  dyed  cotton  of  a  lasting  blue*, 
somewhat  brighter  than  it  was  before  the  addi- 
tion of  the  red  of  madder. 
L2 


118  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

I  shall  now  endeavour  to  find  out  the  particu- 
lar cause  of  the  solidity  of  this  colour  ;  perhaps  it 
may  be  the  general  cause  of  the  tenacity  of  all 
the  rest;  for  it  appears  already,  from  the  expe- 
riments above  related,  that  this  tenacity  depends 
on  the  ^  choice  of  salts  which  are  added  to  the 
decoctions  of  the  colouring  ingredients,  when 
the  same  ingredients  contain  none  in  themselves. 
If  from  the  consequences  which  shall  result  from 
the  choice  of  these  salts,  of  their  nature,  and  of 
their  properties,  it  be  admitted  (and  it  cannot  be 
fairly  denied)  that  they  afford  more  or  less  tenui- 
ty in  the  homogeneous  colouring  parts  of  the 
dying  ingredients,  the  whole  theory  of  this  art 
wall  be  discovered,  without  having  recourse  to 
uncertain  or  contested  causes. 

One  may  easily  conceive  that  the  salts  added 
to  the  indigo  vats  not  only  open  the  natural 
pores  of  the  subject  to  be  dyed,  but  also  unfold 
the  colouring  atoms  of  the  indigo. 

In  the  other  preparations  of  dyes  (to  be  men- 
tioned hereafter j  the  woollen  stuffs  are  boiled  in 
a  solution  of  salts,  which  the  dyers  call  prepa- 
ration. In  this  preparation  tartar  and  allum  are 
generally  used.  In  some  hours  the  stuff  is  taken 
out,  slightly  squeezed,  and  kept  damp  for  some 
days  in  a  cool  place,  that  the  saline  liquor  which 
remains  in  it  may  still  act  and  prepare  it  for  the 
reception  of  the  dye  of  these  ingredients,  in  the 
decoction  of  which  it  is  pi ungid  to  boil  again. 
Without  this  preparation,  experience  shows  that 
the  colours  will  not  be  lasting,  at  least  for  the 
greatest  part ;  for  it  must  be  owned  that  there 
are  some  ingredients  which  yield  lasting  colours, 
though  the  stuff  has  not  previously  undergone 
this  preparation,  because  the  ingredient  contains 
in  itself  these  salts. 

It  is  therefore  necessary,  that  tlie  natural  pores 
of  the  fibres  of  the  wool  should  be  enlarged  and 


dyer's  companion.  119 

cleansed  by  the  help  of  those  salts,  which  are  al- 
ways somewhat  corroding,  and  perhaps  they  open 
new  pores  for  the  reception  of  the  colouring 
atoms  contained  in  the^  ingredients.  The  boil- 
ingof  this  liquor  drives  in  the  atoms  by  repeated 
strokes.  The  pores  already  enlarged  by  these 
salts,  are  further  dilated  by  the  heat  of  the  boiling 
water  ;  they  are  afterwards  contracted  by  the 
external  cold  when  the  d\^ed  matter  is  taken  out 
of  the  copper,  when  it  is  exposed  to  the  exter- 
nal air,  or  when  it  is  plimged  into  cold  water. 
T'hus  the  colouring  atom  is  taken  in,  and  detain- 
ed in  the  pores  or  fissures  of  the  dyed  body,  by 
the  springiness  of  its  fibres,  which  have  contract- 
ed and  restored  themselves  to  their  first  state, 
and  have  re-assumed  their  primary  stiffness  upon 
being  exposed  to  the  cold. 

If,  besides  this  spring  of  the  sides  of  the  pore, 
it  be  supposed  that  these  sidfs  have  been  plaister- 
ed  inwardly  with  a  layer  of  the  saline  liquor,  it 
will  appear  plainly  that  this  is  another  means 
employed  by  art  to  detain  the  colouring  atom  ; 
for  this  ^tom  having  entered  into  the  pore, while 
the  saline  cement  of  the  sides  was  yet  in  a  state  of 
solution,  and  consequently  fluid  ;  and  this  ce- 
ment being  afterwards  congealed  by  the  external 
cold,  the  atom  is  thereby  detained  ;  by  the  spring 
which  has  been  mentioned,  and  by  this  saline 
cement,  which  by  crystalization  is  become  hard, 
forms  a  kind  of  mastic  which  is  not  easily  re- 
moved. 

If  the  coloured  atom,  (which  is  as  small  as  the 
little  eminence  that  appears  at  the  entrance  of 
the  pore,  and  without  which  the  subject  would 
not  appear  dyed}  be  sufficiently  protuberant  to  be 
exposed  to  more  pow^erful  shocks  than  the  resis- 
tance of  the  sides  of  the  cement  that  retains  it, 
then  the  dye  resulting  from  all  these  atoms  suffi- 
ciently retained,  will  be  extremely  lasting,  and 


120  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

in  the  rank  of  the  good  dye,  provided  the  saline 
coat  can  neither  be  carried  off  by  cold  water, 
such  as  rain,  nor  calcined  or  reduced  to  powder 
by  the  rays  of  the  sun  ;  for  every  lasting  colour, 
or  colour  belonging  to  the  good  dye,  must  with- 
stand these  two  proofs.  No  other  can  reasona- 
bly be  expected  in  stuffs  designed  for  apparel  or 
furniture. 

1  know  but  of  txyo  saks  in  chymistry,  which, 
being  once  crystalized,  can  be  moistened  with 
cold  water  without  dissolving  ;  and  there  are 
few  besides  these  that  can  remain  several  days 
exposed  to  the  sun,  without  being  reduced  to  a 
flower  or  white  powder.  These  are  tartar,  ei- 
ther as  taken  from  the  wine  vessels*  or  purified, 
and  tartar  of  vitriol.  The  tartar  of  vitriol  may 
be^made  by  mixing  a  salt  already  alkalized,  (or 
that  may  become  sucTi  vvhen  the  acid  is  drove 
out  with  a  salt  whose  acid  is  vitriolic,  as  cop- 
peras and  allum)  ;  this  is  easily  effected  if  it  be 
weaker  than  the  acid  of  vitriol,  and  such  is  the 
acid  of  all  essential  salts  extracted  from  vegeta- 
bles. 

In  the  process  of  the  blue  vat,  which  I  tried 
in  small,  to  discover  the  cause  of  its  effects, 
copperas  and  potash,  (which  is  a  prepared  al- 
kali) are  mixed  together  ;  as  soon  as  these  so- 
lutions  are  unitedi  the  alkali  precipitates  the 
iron  of  the  copperas  in  form  of  powder  almost 
black  ;  the  vitriolic  acid  of  the  copperas,  divest, 
ed  of  its  metallic  basis  by  its  union  with  the  al- 
kali, forms  a  neutral  salt,  called  tartar  of  vitriol^ 
as  vvhen  made  with  the  salt  of  tartar  and  the  vi- 
triolic  acid  already  separated  from  its  basis  ;  for 
all  alkalis,  from  whatever  vegetables  they  are 
extracted,  are  perffctly  alike,  provided  they 
have  been  equally  calcined. 

More  difficuhies  'vill  occur  with  regard  to  the 
water  for  die  preparaiioa  of  other  colours,  such 


12J 

.as  reds  and  yellows-  It  may  be  denied  that  a 
tartar  of  vitriol  can  result  from  the  mixture  of 
allum  and  crude  tartar  boiled  together  ;  yet  the 
theory  is  the  same,  and  I  do  not  know  that  it 
©an  be  otherwise  conceived.  The  allum  is  a 
salt,  consisting  of  the  vitriolic  acid  united  v.  ith 
an  earth ;  by  adding  an  alkali,  tlie  earth  is  im- 
mediately precipitated,  and  the  tartar  soon 
forms ;  but  instead  of  this  alkaline  salt,  allum 
is  boiled  with  the  crude  tartar,  which  is  the  es- 
sential salt  of  wine,  that  is,  a  salt  composed  of  the 
vinous  acid,  (which  is  more  volatile  than  the  vi» 
triolic)  and  of  oil,  both  concentrated  in  a  small 
portion  of  earth. 

This  salt,  as  is  known  to  chymists,  becomes 
alkali  by  divesting  it  of  its  acid.  ^  Thus  when 
the  allum  and  crude  tartar  are  boiled  together, 
besides  the  impression  which  the  fibres  of  the 
stuff  to  be  dyed  receive  from  the  first  of  these 
salts,  which  is  somewhat  corrosive,  the  tartar 
is  also  purified,  and  by  the  addition  of  the  earth, 
which  is  separated  from  the  allum,  (and  which 
has  near  the  same  effect  upon  the  tartar,  as  the 
earth  oi Merviels^  which  is  used  at  Montpellier 
in  manufacturing  cream  of  tartar)  it  becomes 
clear  and  transparent.  It  may  very  probably 
happen  that  the  vitriolic  acid  of  the  allum,  driv- 
ing out  a  part  of  the  vegetable  acid  of  the  tartar, 
a  tartar  of  vitriol  may  be  formed  as  hard 
and  transparent  as  the  crystal  of  tartar.  Ad- 
mitting  one  or  other  of  these  suppositions,  con- 
sequently there  is  in  the  open  pores  of  the  wool 
a  saline  cement  which  crystalizes  as  soon  as  the 
stuff  which  comes  out  of  the  dye  is  exposed  to 
the  cold  air,  which  cannot  be  calcined  by  heat, 
nor  is  soluble  in  cold  water.  I  could  not  avoid 
making  this  digression. 

This  theory   is  common  to  the  indigo  vat, 
where  urine  is  used  instead  of  water ;  allum 


122  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

and  crude  tartar  in  the  place  of  vitriol  and  pot^ 
ash.  This  urine  vat  gives  a  lasting  dye  only 
when  used  hot,  and  then  the  wool  must  remain 
in  an  hour  or  two  to  take  the  dye  equally.  As 
soon  as  the  vat  is  cold  she  strikes  no  more  dye  ; 
thereasonof  this  would  be  difficult  to  discover 
in  an  opaque  metal  vat,  but  in  a  glass  vessel  it 
is  easily  seen. 

I  let  this  little  glass  proof  vat  cool,  and  all  the 
green  colour,  which  was  suspended  in  it  while 
hot,  precipitated  little  by  little  to  the  bottom  ; 
for  then  the  tartar  crystalizing  itself,  and  reuni- 
ting  in  heavier  masses  than  its  moculas  were 
during  the  heat  of  the  liquor^  and  its  solution, 
it  sunk  to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  and  carried 
with  it  the  colouring  particles. 

When  I  restored  this  liq^uor  to  its  former  de. 
gi'ee  of  heat,  after  shaking  it,  and  letting  it  settle 
a  while,  I  dipped  a  piece  of  cloth,  which  I  took 
out  one  hour  after,  with  as  lasting  a  dye  as  at  the 
first ;  so  that  when  this  vat  is  used  and  fit  to 
%vork,  the  tartar  is  to  be  kept  in  a  state  of  solution, 
which  cannot  be  done  but  by  a  pretty  strong 
heat.  The  alkali  of  the  urine  greens  it,  the  al- 
lum  prepares  the  fibres  of  the  wool,  and  the 
crystal  of  tartar  secures  the  dye  by  cementing 
the  colouring  atoms  deposited  in  the  pores. 

There  still  remains  a  difficulty  with  respect 
to  the  indigo  vat,  in  which,  neither  vitriol,  al- 
lum  or  tartar  are  used,  but  only  pearlash  or  a 
fixed  alkali  in  equal  quantity  with  the  indigo, 
and  which  is  pretty  briskly  heated  to  dye  the 
wool  and  stuffs.  But  before  I  enter  into  the 
cause  of  the  solidity  of  its  dye,  which  is  equal 
to  that  of  the  other  blue  vats  where  the  other 
salts  already  mentioned  enter,  I  must  examine 
into  the  nature  of  pearlash ;  it  is  a  vegetable 
fixed  alkali  obtained  from  ashes  and  are  the 
salts  of  lies  calcined  ;  potash  is  of  the  same 


dyer's  companion.  123 

Bature,  and    from  the  same  source,   but   the 
process  is  a  little  different  in  manufacturing 
it;  it  is  not  so  mild   and  pure  as  the  pearlash, 
it  contains  a  much  larger  quantity  of  earth,  and 
operates  in  the  dye  more    quick  and  active. 
Some  erroneously  formed  an   idea  that^  these 
alkalis  were  the  lees  of  wine,  and  lost  their  acid 
substance  by  calcination,  as  Mr.  Haigh,  (dyer 
of  Leeds,)  observes  on  the  nature  of  pearL  ashes; 
*'  which  are  the  lees  of  wine  dried  and  calcin- 
ed :  it  is  therefore  an  alkaline  salt,  of  the  nature 
of  salt  of  tartar,  but  less  pure  as  proceeding 
from  the  heaviest  parts  of  the  dregs  of  wine,  and 
consequently  the  most  earthy^  besides,  the  alka- 
li of  the  pearlash  is  never  as  homogeneous  as  the 
alkaline  salt  of  tartar  well  calcined,  and  there  are 
scarcely  any  pearlash  not  putrified,  from  which 
a  considerable  quantity  of  tartar  of  vitriol  may 
not  beobtcJined  ;  it  is  even  probable  by  an  expe- 
rinient  which  I  have  related,  that  it  might  at 
length  be  entirely  converted  into  this  neutral  salt; 
the  same  may  be  said  of  potash,  and  of  all  other 
alkaline  salts,  whose  basis  are  not  that  of  the 
marine  salt." 

This  is  an  error  of  Mr.  Haigh,  for  pot  and 
pearl- ashes  have  not  the  least  connection  with  tar- 
tar or  lees  of  wine,  or  tartar  of  vitriol,  and  it 
cannot  be  converted  into  a  neutral  salt. 

Mr.  Haigh  and  all  others  that  form  this  opin- 
ion, are  in  an  error,  for  the  alkali  of  pot  and 
pearl-ashes  and  lime,  have  not  the  least  share 
of  acid  in  them-  Whatever  qualities  they  may 
be  possessed  of  in  nature,  are  hidden  from  us  till 
reduced  to  atoms,  by  the  elementary  heat.  The 
pot  and  pearl-ashes  are  hidden  in  the  plants  or 
vegetable  world,  some  vegetables  possess  more 
pleatic  than  others  ;  the  lime  is  hidden  in  the 
earth,  or  stones,  and  its  alkali  substance  is  not 


124  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

discovered  till  it  is  obtained  by  fire  and  air.  The 
animal  world  are  more  or  less  alkali ;  for  in- 
stance, the  oyster  shell.  The  alkali  is  found  by 
the  same  ele!uent ;  however,  the  animal  world 
are  more  or  less  acidous,  as  will  be  shown  here- 
after in  manufacturing  indigo  and  woad. 

Of  Borax.— ^The  nature  of  borax  is  a  neutral 
salt,  used  to  correct  the  acid  that  arises  from  the 
vegetable  substances  of  wheat  bran  and  madder, 
(not  diluted)  by  fermentation  creates  an  acid  with 
the  alkali  of  a  volatile,  urinous  substance  ;  and 
likewise  the  indigo  and  woad,  have  a  certain  de- 
gree of  acid,  uncertain  to  determine,  and  if  the 
acid  should  have  the  advantage  of  the  alkali,  and 
is  not  discovered  soon  enough,  the  dye  is  lost;  so 
it  requires  borax  or  some  neutral  substance  to 
correct  the  acid,  and  to  act  with  them  both,  and 
it  cannot  be  affected  only  by  neutral  salts,  or  a 
substitute  of  the  same  nature. 

I  must  now  give  the  reason  why  the  indigo 
vat  is  green  under  the  first  surface  of  the  liquor ; 
why  this  liquor  must  be  green  that  the  blue 
dye  may  be  lasting,  and  why  the  stuff  that  is  ta- 
ken  green  out  of  the  liquor  becomes  blue  as 
soon  as  it  is  aired.  All  these  conditions  being 
of  necessity  common  to  all  indigo  vats  either 
cold  or  hot,  the  same  explication  will  serve  for 
them  all. 

1.  The  flurry  which  rises  on  the  surface  of  the 
indigo  liquor  when  it  is  fit  dye  is  blue,  and  the 
under  part  of  this  scum  is  green  ;  these  two  cir- 
cumstances prove  the  perfect  solution  of  the  in- 
digo, and  that  the  alkaline  salt  is  united  to  its 
colouring  atoms  since  it  greens  them,  for  without 
they  would  reinahi  blue.  ^ 

2.  These  circumstances  prove  that  there  is 
also  in  the  indigo  a  volatile  urinous  alkali,  which 
the  fixt  alkali  of  the  potash,  or  the  alkahne  earth 
of  the  lime  displays,  and  which  evaporates  very 


•fiYER^s  companion:^  ^25 

shortly  after  the  e^cposition  of  this  scum  to  the 
air.  The  existence  of  this  urinous  volatile  ap- 
pears plainly  by  the  smell  of  the  vat  during  the 
fermentation  ;  when  stirred,  or  when  heated,  the 
smell  is  sharp,  and  resembles  that  of  stinking 
meat  roasted. 

3.  In  the  preparation  of  the  anil,^  in  order  to 
separate  the  fecula,  a  fermentation  is  continued 
to  putrefaction.  All  rotten  plants  are  urinous. 
This  volatile  urinous  quality  is  produced  by  the 
intimate  union  of  salts  with  the  vegetable  oil,  or 
is  owing  to  a  prodigious  quantity  of  insects  fall- 
ing on  all  sides  of  fermenting  plants,  and  attract- 
ed by  the  smell  exhaling  from  them,  where  they 
live,  multiply,  and  die  in  them,  and  consequent- 
ly deposit  a  number  of  dead  bodies ;  therefore  t6 
this  vegetable  substance  an  animal  one  is  united, 
Avhose  salt  is  always  an  urinous  volatile.  This 
sanie  urinous  quality  exists  also  in  the  woad, 
which  is  prepared  after  the  same  manner,  viz. 
by  fermentation  and  putrefaction^  and  which 
will  be  further  explained  in  the  narrative  of  its 
preparation. 

4.  And  lastly,  if  indigo  or  woad  be  distilled 
in  a  retort,  either  alone,  or  (which  is  much  bet- 
ter) with  some  fixed  saline  or  earthy  alkali  add- 
ed to  it,  a  liquor  will  be  obtained,  which,  by  all 
chymical  essays,  produ-fes  the  same  effects  as 
volatile  spirits  of,urine. 

Why  does  not  this  volatile  urinous  quality  in 
the  indigo  cause  it  to  appear  green,  since  it 
must  be  equally  distributed  through  all  its  parts? 
And  why  does  indigo,  being  dissolved  in  plain 
boiling  water,  tinge  it  blue  and  not  green  ?  It  is 
because  this  volatile  urinous  salt  is  not  concret- 
ed that  it  requires  another  body  more  active 
than  boiling  water  to  drive  it  out  of  the  par- 
ticles surroundii  ig  it ;  and  the  solution  of  indigo 
is  never  perfected  by  water  alone ;  whatevo-  de-^ 
M 


126  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

^ree  of  heat  is  given,  it  is  only  diluted,  and  not 
dissolved  in  it.  Indeed  this  decoction  of  indigo 
blues  the  stuffs  that  are  dipped,  but  the  blue  is 
not  equally  laid  on,  and  boiling  water  almost  in- 
stantly discharges  it.  I  shall  endeavour  to 
answer  this  by  an  example  drawn  from  another 
subject. 

Salt  ammoniac,  from  which  chymists  extract 
the  most  penetrating  volatile  spirit,  has  not  that 
quick  urinous  smell  by  dissolving  and  boiling  it 
in  water  ;  either  lime,  or  fixed  alkaline  salt,  must 
be  added  to  disengage  the  iirinous  volatile  parts. 
In  like  manner,  the  indigo  requires  fixed  saline^ 
or  earthy  alkalis,  to  be  exactly  discomposed., 
that  its  volatile  urinous  salt  may  be  discovered, 
and  that  its  colouring  atoms  may  be  reduced 
probably  to  their  elementary  minuteness. 

I  now  come  to  the  second  quality  required. 
The  liquor  of  the  indigo  vat  must  be  green,  that 
the  dye  may  be  lasting  ;  for  the  indigo  would 
not  be  exactly  dissolved,  if  the  alkali  did  not  act 
upon  it.  Its  solution  not  being  as  perfect  as  it 
ought  to  be,  its  dye  would  be  neither  equal  nor 
lasting ;  but  as  soon  as  the  alkaline  salts  act  up- 
on  it,  they  must  green  it  :  for  an  alkali,  mixed 
with  the  blue  juice  or  tincture  of  any  plant  or 
*  flower,  immediately  turns  it  green,  when  equally 
distributed  on  all  its  colouring  parts.  But  if  by 
evaporation  these  same  parts,  coloured,  or  co- 
louring, have  re-united  themselves  into  hard  and 
compact  masses,  the  alkali  will  not  change  their 
colour  till  it  has  penetrated,  divided^^and  reduc- 
ed them  to  their  primary  fineness.  ^  This  is  the 
case  with  indigo,  whose  fecula  is  the. dry  in- 
spissated juice  of  the  anil. 

With  respect  to  the  last  circumstance,  which 
is  *hat  the  stuff  must  be  green  on  coming  out  of 
jthe  liquor  and  become  blue  as  soon  as  it  is  air- 
i:d^  without  which,  the  blue  would  not  be  of  a 


dyer's  gompanio^st.  127 

good  dye,  the  following  reasons  may  be  given :  it 
is  taken  out  green  because  the  liquor  is  green  ; 
if  it  was  not,  the  alkaline  salt  put  into  the  vat 
would  not  be  equally  distributed,  or  the  indigo 
would  not  be  exactly  dissolved.  ^  If  the  alkali 
was  not  equally  distributed,  the  liquor  contain- 
ed in  the  vat  would  not  be  equally  saline  :  the 
bottom  of  this  liquor  would  contain  all  the  salt ; 
the  upper  would  be  insipid.  In  this  case  the  stuff 
dipped  in  would  neither  be  prepared  to  receive 
the  dye,  nor  to  retain  it;  but  when  it  is  taken  out 
green  at  the  end  of  a  quarter  of  an  hour's  dipping 
it  is  a  proof  that  the  liquor  was  equally  sahne, 
and  equally  loaded  with  colouring  atoms  ;  it  is 
also  a  sign,  that  the  alkaline  salts  have  insinuated 
themselves  into  the  pores  of  the  fibres  of  the 
stuff  and  enlarged  them,  as  has  been  observed, 
and  perhaps  have  formed  new  ones.  Now  there 
can  be  no  boubt  that  an  alkaline  salt  may  have  this 
effect  on  a  woollen  stuff,  when  it  h  evident  that 
a  very  sharp  alkaline  lie  burns  and  dissolves  al- 
most in  an  instant  a  flock  of  wool  or  a  feather. 

A  process  in  dying  called,  by  the  French, 
Jhnte  de  boiirre^  that  is  the  melting  or  dissolving 
of  flock  or  hair,  is  still  a  further  example-  The 
hair,  which  is  used^  and  boiled  in  a  solution  of 
pearlash  in  urine,  is  so  perfectly  dissolved  as 
not  to  leave  the  least  fibre  remaining.  There- 
fore if  a  lixivium,  extremely  sharp,  entirely  de- 
stroys the  wool,  a  lie  which  shall  have  but  a 
quantity  of  alkaline  salt  sufficient  to  act  on  the 
wool  without  destroying  it,  will  prepare  the 
pores  to  receive  and  preserve  the  colouring 
atoms  of  the  indigo. 

The  stuff  is  aired  after  being  taken  green  out 
of  the  vat,  and  after  wringing  it  becomes  blue. 
What  is  done  by  airing?  it  is  cooled  ;  if  it  is 
the  urinous  volatile  detached  from  the  indigo 
which  gave  it  this  green  colour,  it  evaporates, 
and  the  blue  appears  again  ;  if  it  is  the  fixed 


128  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

alkaline  that  causes  this  grcv-n,  not  only  the 
greatest  part  ih  carried  ofFby  the  strong  expres- 
sion of  the  stuff',  but  what  remains  can  have  no 
more  action  on  the  colouring  part,  because  the 
small  atom  of  tartar  of  vitriol,  which  contains 
a  coloured  atom  still  less  than  itself,  is  crysta- 
lized  the  instant  of  its  exposition  to  the  cold  air, 
and  contracting  this  same  colouring  atom  by  the 
tielp  of  the  spring  at  the  sides  of  the  pore,  it  en- 
tirely presses  out  the  remainder  of  the  alkali^ 
which  does  not  crystalize  as  a  neutral  salt. 

The  blue  is  roused,  that  i>,  it  becomes  bright- 
er and  finer  by  soaking  the  dyed  stuifinwartn 
water,  for  then  the  colouring  particles,  which 
had  only  a  superficial  adherence  to  the  fibres  of 
the  wool  are  carried  off.  Soap  is  used  as  a 
proof  of  the  laerting  of  the  blue  dye,  and  it  niust 
stand  it,  for  the  soap,  which  is  only  used  in  a 
small  quantit>^  in  proportion  to  the  water,  and 
whose  action  on  the  dyed  pattern  is  fixed  to  five 
minutes,  is  an  alkali,  mitigated  by  the  oil,  which 
cannot  act  upon  a  neutral  salt.  If  it  discharg- 
es the  pattern  of  any  part  of  its  colour,  it  is  be- 
cause its  parts  were  but  superficially  adhering  ; 
besides,  the  little  saline  crystal  which  is  set  in 
the  pore,  whose  use  is  to  cement  the  colouring 
atom,  cannot  be  dissolved  in  so  short  a  time, 
so  as  to  come  out  of  the  pore  with  the  atom  it 
retains. 

This  treatise  lays  down  the  essay  of  a  me- 
thod of  dying  different  from  any  hitherto  offer- 
ed.  I  appeal  to  philosophers,  who  would  think 
little  of  a  simple  narrative  of  processes,  if  I  did 
not  at  the  same  time  give  their  theory.  I  shall 
follow  this  method  in  the  other  experiments  on 
reds,  the  yellows,  or  other  simple  colours,  as  it 
is  absolutely  necessary  to  have  a  knowledge  of 
them  before  entering  on  the  compound,  as  these 
are  generally  but  colours  laid  on  one  after  the 


dyer's  companion.  129 

other,  and  seldom  mixed  together  in  the  same 
liquor  or  decoction. 

Thus  having  once  the  knowledge  of  what 
procures  the  tenacity  of  a  simple  colour,  it  will 
be  more  easily  known,  if  the  second  colour  can 
take  place  in  the  spaces  the  first  have  left  emp- 
ty without  displacing  the  first. 

This  is  the  idea  which  I  have  formed  to  my- 
self of  the  arrangement  of  d  liferent  colours  laid 
on  the  same  stuff,  for  it  appears  to  me  a  matter 
of  great  difficulty  to  conceive  that  the  colouring 
atoms  can  place  themselves  die  one  on  the  other^ 
and  thus  form  kinds  of  pyramids,  each  still  pre- 
serving  their  colour,  so  that  from  a  mixture  of  the 
whole  a  compound  colour  shallresult,  and  which, 
notwithstanding,  shall  appear  uniform,  and  as  it 
w^ere  homogeneous*  To  adopt  this  system,  we. 
must  suppose  a  transparency  in  these  atoms, 
which  it  would  be  difficult  to  demonstrate  ;  and 
further,  that  a  yellow  atom  must  place  itself 
immediately  on  a  blue  one,  already  set  in  the 
pore  of  the  fibre  of  a  stuff,  and  that  it  must  re- 
main there  strongly  bound,  so  that  they  must 
touch  each  other  with  extreme  smooth  sur- 
faces, and  so  with  every  new  colour  laid  on. 

It  is  not  easy  to  conceive  all  this,  and  it  ap- 
pears more  probable,  that  the  first  colour  has 
only  taken  up  the  pores  that  it  found  open  by 
the  first  preparation  of  the  fibres  of  the  stuff; 
that  on  the  side  of  these  pores  there  remains 
more  still  to  be  filled,  or  at  least  spaces  not  oc- 
cupied, where  new  pores  may  be  opened  to 
lodge  the  new  atoms  of  a  second  colour,  by  the 
means  of  a  second  preparation  of  water,  compos- 
ed of  corroding  salts,  which  being  the  same  as 
those  of  the  first  preparing  liquor,  will  not  de- 
stroy the  first  saline  crystals  introduced  into 
the  first  pores. 

What  has  been  already  said  with  regard  to  the 
M2 


130  APrENDIX  TO  THE 

indigo  vat,  may  also  serve  to  explain  the  action 
of  the  woad  vat  on  wool  and  stuffs  ;  it  is  only 
supposing  in  the  woad>  that  salts  do  naturally 
exist,  pretty  near  of  affinity  to  those  that  are  add- 
ed to  the  indigo  vat.  It  appears  by  the  descrip. 
tion  given  of  these  vats,  that  the  woad  vat  is  by 
rnu^^h  the  most  difficult  to  conduct.  I  am  con- 
vinced that  these  difficulties  might  be  removed, 
if  an  attempt  was  made  to  prepare  the  isatis  as 
th^  anil  is  in  the  West  Indies.  I  shall  therefore 
compare  their  different  preparations.  I  have 
taken  the  following  narrative  from  the  memoirs 
of  Mr.  Astruc's  Histoire  Naturelle  du  Lan- 
guednc  Paris^  Cavalier  1757,  in  4to,  p.  330 
and  331. 

"  According  to  the  opinion  of  dyers,  woad 
only  gives  feeble  and  languishing  colours  ; 
Whereas  those  of  the  indigo  are  lively  and  bright- 
This  opinion  I  grant  is  conformable  to  reason  : 
the  indigo  is  a  fine  subtle  powder  ;  consc  quent- 
ly  capable  to  penetrate  the  stuffs  easily,  and  give 
them  a  shining  colour-  The  v/oad,  on  the  con- 
trary, is  only  a  gross  plant,  loaded  with  many 
earthy  parts,  which  slacken  the  action  and  mo- 
tion of  the  finer  parts,  and  prevent  them  from 
acting  effectually. 

*'  I  knovv  but  one  way  to  remove  this  incon- 
veniency,  that  is,  to  prepare  the  woad  after  the 
same  manner  the  indigo  is  prepared  ;  by  this 
means.the  colours  obtainedfrom  the  woad  would 
acquire  the  lively  and  bright  qualities  of  those 
procured  from  the  indigo,  without  diminishing 
\x\  the  least  the  excellency  of  the  colours  pro- 
duced by  the  woad. 

"  I  have  already  made  in  small^  experiments 

^  As  this  ingenious  man  has  succeeded  in  small  experi- 
ments, it  is  probable  he  would  also  in  the  large  ones  ;  and 
then  this  plant  easily  cultivated  in  America  would  WCU  Ig-v 
crbmpence  the  pams  of  the  husbandman, 


dyer's  companioit.  131 

©n  what  I  propose,  and  those  experiments  have 
'  succeeded,  not  only  in  the  preparation  of  the 
powder  of  woad,  but  also  in  the  use  of  this  pow- 
der for  dying." 

It  is  incumbent  on  those  who  have  the  pub- 
lic good  at  heart,  to  cause  trials  at  large  to  be 
made,  and  if  they  have  the  success  that  can  rea- 
sonably be  expected,it  will  be  proper  to  encourage 
those  who  cultivate  woad,  to  follow  this  new 
method  of  preparing  it,  and  ciFer  premiums  to 
enable  them  to  sustain  the  expenses  this  new 
pactice  will  engage  them  in,  until  the  advantage 
they  will  reap  from  it  may  be  sufficient  to  deter- 
mine them  to  follow  iu 

I  shall  now  propose  the  means  to  succeed  in 
Mr-  Astruc's  experiments,  and  these  means  na- 
turally result  from  considering  the  method  used 
in  Languedoc  for  the  preparation  of  woad,  and 
the  ingenious  method  by  which  they  separate 
the  fecula  of  the  anil  in  America.  I  shall  give 
the  preparation  of  this  last  in  the  sequel ;  those 
who  desire  a  fuller  description  may  consult 
VHistoire  des  Antiles  du  P  du  Tertre  &?  du  1\ 
Labat.  The  following  preparation  of  the  pastel^ 
or  garden  woad,  is  thiA  described  by  Mr.  As- 
true. 

The  preparation  of  indigo  and  potash- — The 
preparation  of  potash  requires  no  other  perform- 
ance than  to  dissolve  it  in  warm  water,  w^ith 
constant  stirring  ;  say  one  gallon^  of  water  to 
every  two  pounds  of  potash,  let  it  stand  and 
cool,  and  keep  it  fronri  filth  and  dirt,  be  care- 
ful and  not  have  it  disturbed,  that  the  earthly- 
parts  may  settle  to  the  bottom,  and  the  lie  pour- 
ed offby  inclination,  leaving  the  lees  to  be  cast 
away  ;  the  pot  and  pearl-ashes  must  be  kept  in  a 
clean  tight  vessel;  to  exclude  it  from  the  air, 
otherwise  it  v^ill  dissolve  and  loose  its  sub- 
stance, and  you  cannot  ascsrtaiui  its  qualities* 


lo^  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

For  indigo. — All  indigo  requires  to  be  pul^ 
verized  to  a  powder,  or  ground  to  a  paste,  let  it 
be  used  in  what  dye  it  will,  but  for  blue  I  shall 
give  the  several  processes  that  I  conceive  to  be 
the  most  correct.  In  the  first  place,  take  and 
weigh  the  quantity  of  indigo  required  for  setting 
or  recruiting  your  dye  ;  then  wash  it  with  clean 
water,  pour  off  the  water,  it  will  take  all  the 
loose  dirt ;  then  beat  it  small  that  the  balls  or 
grinding  may  be  performed,  then  take  as  niuch 
of  the  potash  lie,  prepared  as  above,  as  is 
necessary  to  have  the  balls  run  free,  and  the  grind- 
ing done  with  ease,  grind  it  to  a  paste ;  or  if  this- 
is  neglected  ^  and  it  is  not  ground  to  a  paste  or 
powder,  the  indigo  is  lost,  for  it  will  not  dissolve 
in  the  dye,  as  some  erroneously  imagine,  but  be-- 
eomes  coated  and  congealed,  and  looses  its  active 
part  with  the  other  ingredients.  This  is  the 
preparation  of  indigo  for  the  blue  vat,  let  it  al- 
ways be  ready  ground  before  setting  your  vat ; 
set  it  aside,  covered  close  to  prevent  evaporation,, 
and  to  keep  the  dirt  and  filth  from  it.  Some  in- 
digo will  be  differently  prepared,  or  with  dif- 
ferent alkalis,  but  the  grinding  must  be  the  same. 
Lime  waters  :  (after  the, ^preparation  of  the  lime,, 
which  will  be  given  hereafter,)  when  it  is  ne- 
cessary to  use  the  lie  of  lime,  take  two  quarts 
of  lime  to  every  gallon  of  water,  put  them  in  a. 
tub,  stir  them  well  together,  let  stand  twelve 
hours  ;  then  pour  off  the  lie  to  your  indigo  to. 
your  liking ;  some  processes  will  be  to  use. 
sig  or  urine,  when  this  is  necessary  take  one 
bushel  of  ashes,  one  peck  of  stone  lime,  put 
them  in  a  leech,  wet  them  with  warm  water, 
then  leech  as  much  sig  till  the  strength  is  out  of 
your  leech,  wet  your  indigo,  &c.  ;  to  dissolve 
the  indigo  with  vinegar,  a  vegetable  acid,  the. 
indigo  is  placed  with  the  vinegar  in  a  kettle  over 
a  moderate  fire  and  kept  warm  twenty-fuur 
hours,  that  the  acid  may  evaporate,  &c» 


byer's  eoMPANio^T.  133 

Preparation  of  Lime, 

That  the  lime  may  be  properly^  slacked  foi? 
the  dyer's  uscy  take  some  convenient  place  to 
pour  water  on  the  lime  till  it  begins  to  slack  and 
crack,  then  cast  it  into  an  empty  vessel,  where  the 
lime  finishes  slacking,  and  reduces  itself  to  po\Y- 
der,  considerably  augmenting  its  bulk ;  it  i$ 
afterwards  sifted  through  a  canvas,  and  kept 
in  a  dry  hogshead. 

Sour  liquors  are  not  only  necessary  in  some 
circumstances  of  setting  a  woad  vat,  but  also 
in  some  of  the  preparations  given  to  wool  and 
Stuffs  previous  to  their^  being  dyed  ;  they  are 
prepared  after  the  following  manner  : 

Preparation  of  sour  Liquors. 

A  copper  of  the  size  required  is  filled  with 
river  water,  and  when  it  boils,  it  is  flung  into 
a  hogshead,  where  a  sufiicient  quantity  of  bran 
has  been  put,  and  stirred  with  a  stick  three  or 
four  times  a  day.  The  proportion  of  bran  and 
water  is  not  very  material ;  I  have  made  a  good 
liquor  by  putting  three  bushels  of  bran  into  a 
vessel  containing  seventy  gallons.  Four  or  five 
days  after,  this  water  becomes  sour,  and  conse- 
quently  fit  for  use  in  ail  cases,  where  it  will  not 
be  detrimental  to  the  preparations  of  wool  that 
are  independent  of  dying. 

For  it  may  happen,  that  wool  in  the  fleece 
which  has  been  dyed  in  a  liquor  where  too  great 
a  quantity  of  sour  water  has  been  put,  will  be 
harder  to  spin,  as  the  sediment  of  the  bran 
forms  a  sort  of  starch  that  glues  the  fibres  of 
the  wool,  and  prevents  them  from  forming  an 
even  thread.  I  must  here  take  notice  of  the 
bad  custom  of  letting  sour  liquors  remain  in 
copper- vessels,  as  I  have  seen  in  some  eminent 


134  APPfiN'DIX  TO   THE 

dye-Iiouses  ;  for  this  Ijqaor  being  an  acid,  cor-^ 
rodes  the  copper,  and  if  it  remains  long  enough 
to  take  in  a  portion  of  this  metaL  it  will  cause 
a  defect  both  in  the  dye  and  in  the  quality  of 
the  stuff:  in  the  dye,  because  the  dissolved 
copper  gives  a  greenish  cast ;  in  the  quality  of 
the  stuff,  because  the  copper  dissolved  preys 
on  all  animal  substances-  The  dyers  are  often 
ignorant  of  die  cause  of  these  defects. 

I  flatter  myself  I  shall  omit  no  essential 
point  on  the  woad  vat :  if  any  difficulties  or  ac- 
cidents,  which  I  have  mentioned,  are  not  found, 
in  the  practice  they  are  not  considerable,  and 
an  easy  remedy  will  be  found  by  those  who 
make  themselves  familiar  with  the  working, 
part. 

The  readers  who  have  no  idea  of  this  work, 
may  think  me  too  prolix,  and  find  repetitions  ; 
but  those  who  intend  to  make  use  of  what  I 
have  taught  in  this  chapter,  vvill  perhaps  re-^ 
proach  me  for  not  having  said  enough  on  the 
subject. 

Those  that  read  this  chapter  vvith  attention, 
will  not  be  surprised  that  the  master-piece  for 
apprentices  to  dyers  of  the  great  dye,  is,  to  set- 
the  woad  vat  and  work  her. 

Receijit  \20th.   To  set  a  vat  of24i  barrels^  as  /iracfised 
in  America, 

Take  121b.  of  potash,  dissolve  as  before  des- 
cribed  ;  161b-  of  good  indigo  prepared  and 
ground  as  before  directed,  (or  if  you  have  woad 
omit  41b.  of  indigo,)  and  add  161b.  of  woad, 
take  161b  of  madder  and  16  quarts  of  wheat 
bran,  and  weigh  3-4  of  a  pound  of  borax. 

The  setting.  —  To  cleanse  the  water,  take 
about  twelve  bushels  of  ashes  with  a  half  bush, 
el  of  stone  lime  and  let  all  the  water  run  through 
this  leech  to  cleanse  it  for  your  blue,  when  the 


135 

-water  is  thus  prepared,  fill  the  vat  with  it  scald- 
inghot;  then  fill  your  boiler  with  the  leeched  wa- 
ter, then  add  the  madder,  wheat  bran,  and  half 
the  potash  lie  that  remains  after  grinding  the 
indigo  already  prepared  ;  heat  this  near  boiling 
hot  with  constant  stirring,  then  empty  this  in 
the  vat  by  a  spout,  wdth  the  vat  covered  close; 
then  fill  the  boiler  as  before,  put  in  the  indigo 
and  the  remaining  potash  lie,  leaving  the  sedi- 
ment behind,  then  the  w^oad,  (if  you  have  any] ; 
all  to  be  added  when  cold,  heat  moderately. 
With    constant    stirring  till  it  boils,   empty  it 
in  the  vat,  fill  the  vat  to  within  tw^elve  inches 
of  the  top,  rake  well,  cover  close,  and  let  stand 
three   hours ;  then  add  the  borax,   rake   wdl 
and    let  stand  ten  hours ;    then  have  all  rea- 
dy  prepared  ;  if  necessary  and  the  dye  has  not 
come  to  W'ork,  have  lime  water  prepared  as  be- 
fore described,  to  four  gallons  water,  eight  quarts 
of  lime ;  add  one  gallon  of  the  lie,  rake  w^ell  and 
add  of  the  lime  lie  every  three  hours,  till  the  lime 
water  is  used ;  if  it  does  not  come  to  work,  have 
another  liquor  prepared,  take  two  bushels  of 
ashes,  and  one  peck   of  lime,  wet  with  w  arm 
ivater,  then  leech  through  ten  gallons  of  sg ; 
feed  the  dye  with  this  when  you  rake,  tiB  it 
comes  to  w^ork,  observing  to  keep  the  vat  cover- 
ed close  to  let  the  heat  be  kept  regular  and  not 
too  low,  if  it  cools  too  much  keep  a  small  fire 
in  the  flew.     Another  sure  remedy,  have  a  few 
gallons  of  good  lively  m^tlt,  and  plenty  of  hops- 
beer  in  fermentation  fit  for  drhiking.  add  this  if 
necessary,  if  the  dye  does  not  come  to  work  in 
time,  forty-eight  hours,   rake  well,  (or  you  may 
add  a  pound  or  two  of  pearlash  and  rake  well.) 

To  know  when  a  dye  has  come  to  work. 

A  vat  is  fit  to  work  when  the  grounds  are  of  a 
green  brown,  when  it  changes,  on  its  being  taken 


136  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

out  of  the  vat,  when  the  flurry  is  of  a  fine  Turk- 
ish or  deep  blue,  and  when  the  pattern,  which 
has  been  dipt  in  it  for  an  hour,  comes  out  of  a 
fine  deep  grass  green.  When  she  is  fit  to  work, 
the  bever  has  a  good  appearance,  clear  and  red- 
dish, and  the  drops  and  edges  that  are  formed 
under  the  rake  in  lifting  up  the  bever  are  brown. 
Examining  the  appearance  of  the  bever,  is  lift- 
ing up  the  liquor  with  the  hand  or  rake,  to  see 
what  colour  the  liquor  of  the  vat  has  under  its 
surface.  The  sediment  or  grounds  must  change 
colour  (as  has  been  already  observed)  at  being 
taken  out  of  the  bever,  and  must  grow  brown 
by  being  exposed  to  the  external  air.  The 
bever  or  liquor  must  feel  neither  too  rough  nor 
too  greasy,  and  must  not  smell  either  of  lime  or 
Ue.  Tliese  are  the  distinguishing  marks  of  a 
yat  that  is  fit  to  work. 

Wool  and  woollen  stuffs  of  all  kinds,  are  dyed 
blue  without  any  other  preparation  then  wetting 
them  well  inluke-warm  water,  with  the  addition 
of  pearlash  as  before  described,  squeezing  them 
well  afterwards,  or  letting  them  drain  :  this  pre- 
caution  is  necessary,  that  the  colour  may  the 
more  easily  insinuate  itself  into  the  body  of  the 
wool,  that  it  may  be  equally  dispersed  through- 
out ;  nor  is  this  to  be  omitted  in  any  kind  of 
<:olours,  whether  the  subject  be  wool  or  cloth. 

When  the  vat  has  come  to  work,  it  must 
stand  one  hour  after  raking,  then  open  it,  take 
oiFthe  flurry  or  head  with  your  skimmer,  and 
put  it  in  a  tub  and  cover  close,  that  it  may  be 
returned  into  the  vat  again,  when  you  cover  and 
rake,  after  dipping  your  goods. 

The  vat  being  come  to  work,  the  cross  must 
be  let  down,  and  about  thirty  ells  of  cloth,  or  the 
equivalent  of  its  weight  of  wool  well  scoured, 
(which  is  first  intended  to  be  dyed  of  a  Persian 
blue  to  make  a  black  afterwards),  having  return. 


137 

cd  this stiiTing  several  times,  which  must  have  al- 
ways been  covered  with  hquor,the  cloth  must  be 
twisted  on  the  rings  fastened  to  the  jack  at  the 
top  of  the  vat ;  if  it  be  wool,  it  is  to  be  dipt 
with  a  net,  which  will  serve  to  wring  it:  tlie 
cloth  must  be  opened  by  its  lists  to  air  it,  and  to 
cool  the  green,  that  is,  to  make  it  lose  the  greea 
colour  it  had  coming  out  of  the  vat,  and  take 
the  blue. 

In  the  preceding  w^ork,  I  gave  particular  di- 
rections for  the  utensils,  and  the  management  of 
the  cloths  while  in  the  vat ;  the  same  processes 
are  to  be  observed  in  the  management  of  the 
blue  for  cloths ;  wool  is  placed  in  a  net  and  kept 
loose  and  open  by  poles  for  that  purpose,  that 
a  man  may  raise  the  wool  and  loosen  it  by  keep- 
ing  one  end  of  the  pole  in  his  hand,  and  the  other 
in  the  dye  with  constant  stirring,  raising  the  vvcol 
but  not  exposed  ro  the  air,  till  taken  up  by  the 
net  for  that  purpose,  for  if  the  air  turns  it  from 
the  green  to  blue  before  it  comes  out  of  the  vat, 
it  vail  cause  it  to  take  the  dye  uneven,  caution 
must  be  used  not  to  crowd  the  dye  too  fast,  and 
never  to  keep  the  vat  long  open,  not  to  exceed 
three  hours  at  a  time,  before  you  return  your 
head,  cover  close  and  rake  well ;  if  the  dye  does 
not  colour  quick  or  active  enough,  add  when 
your  cover  and  rake ;  one  pound  of  pearlash 
or  more  according  to  the  state  of  the  dye,  judg- 
ment must  be  used  ;  be  ever  mindful  to  keep 
the  heat  regular,  if  it  gets  too  low,  it  will  retard 
business,  and  you  nmst  let  it  stand  some  hours, 
it  is  not  good  to  have  it  over  hot,  the  dye  will 
not  turn  to  as  much  profit ;  keep  it  near  to 
scalding  heat,  these  kind  of  vats  are  very  easily 
managed  with  attention,  as  the  dye  does  not  re« 
qnire  shifting  ^)  reheat  as -the  other  vats,  till  the 
dye  is  worked  oft^  no  additions  are  to  be  ma  Ic 
unle{>s  the  dye  works  too  slow,  then  you  may 
N 


138  APPENDIX    TO  THE 

add  pearlash  or  sig  leech,  and  some  madder  if 
necessary,  and  wheat  bran.  When  the  dye  has 
lost  its  colour,  recruit  in  manner  and  form  as 
in  setting ;  if  the  dye  grows  thick,  dirty  and 
glutinous  by  use,  dip  off  the  top  of  the  dye 
carefully  and  let  the  sediment  be  cast  away,  and 
the  dye  boiled  and  skimmed.  These  directions 
are  to  be  general  in  all  blue  dying,  except  other- 
wise directed  ;  almost  every  blue  dyer  pretends 
to  a  peculiar  skill  or  secret  in  bUie  dying,  and 
yet  the  principle  is  the  same,  for  the  colouring 
substances  indigo  and  woad,we  all  depend  upon, 
and  the  power  that  operates  them,  the  alkali,  pot 
and  pearl. ashes,  lime,  ashes,  sig,  &c.  All  the 
difference  is  the  changing  the  order  of  them, 
and  applying  the  assisting  subjects,  as  madder 
and  wheat  bran  ;  I  shall  make  my  observations 
general  under  this,  both  for  indigo  and  woad,  in 
the  management  of  the  cloth,  wool,  and  vat ; 
then  show  the  different  methods  in  practice. 
To  return  to  the  vat ; 

If  ^the  vat  be  in  good  order  at  the  first  open- 
ing, three  or  four  stirrings  or  dippings  may  be 
made,  and  the  next  day,  two  or  three  more,  only 
observing  not  to  hurry  her,  or  to  w^ork  her  as 
strong  as  at  first.  That  the  vat  may  turn  to  as 
much  profit  as  possible  for  the  shades  of  blue  ; 
first,  all  stuffs  intended  to  be  black,  are  dyed  ; 
then  the  king's  blue ;  after  these  the  green 
brown  :  the  violets  and  Turkish  blues  are  com- 
monly  done  in  the  last  rakings  of  the  jsecond 
day  of  the  opening.  The  third  day,  if  the  vat 
appears  much  diminished,  she  must  be  filled 
with  hot  water  within  four  inches  of  the  brim. 
This  is  called  filling  the  vat. 

The  latter  end  of  the  week,  the  light  blues 
are  made,  and  on  Saturday  night,  having  r  ikd 
the  vat,  she  is  to  be  served  a  little  more  than  riic 
preceding  day,  that  slie  may  keep  till  Monday,, 


dyer's  companion.  139 

Monday  morning  the  bever  is  put  on  the  fire^ 
by  passing  it  from  the  vat  into  the  copper  by  a 
trough,  which  rests  on  both  ;  this  clear  bever 
is  emptied  to  the  grounds,  and  when  it  is  ready 
to  boil  it  must  be  returned  into  the  vat,  raking 
the  grounds,  as  the  hot  Hquor  falls  from  the 
trough  ;  at  the  same  time  have  your  indigo  pre- 
pared, and  the  same  process  is  to  be  observed  as 
m  setting  ;  it  generally  comes  to  work  much 
sooner,  (in  about  fourteen  hours) ;  manage  in 
manner  and  form  as  before  described,  till  you 
obtain  the  colour  and  shade  required. 

The  Woad  or  Pastel  vat  ;  how  mariaged  and  honu  to 
know  when  a  Vat  is  cracked  by  too  great  or  too  funalb 
a  quantity  of  Lime  ;  extremes  which  must  be  avoids 
cd. 

When  more  lime  has  been  put  in  than  was 
sufficient  for  the  woad,  it  is  easily  perceived  by 
dipping  in  a  pattern,  which  instead  of  turning  to 
a  beautiful  grass  green,  is  only  daubed  with  a 
steely  green.  The  grounds  do  not  change,  the 
vat  gives  scarcely  any  flurry,  and  the  bever  has 
a  strong  odour  of  quick  lime,  or  its  lees. 

This  error  is  rectified  by  thinning  the  vat,  in 
which  the  dyers  differ  ;  some  use  tartar,  others 
bran,  of  which  they  throw  a  bushel  into  the  vat, 
more  or  less  in  proportion  to  the  quantity  of 
lime  used,  others  a  pail  of  urine.  In  some 
places  a  large  iron  chafing-dish  is  made  use  of, 
long  enough  to  reach  from  the  ground'to  the  top 
of  the  vat,  this  chafing-dish  or  furnace  has  a 
grate  at  a  foot  distance  from  its  bottom,  and  a 
funnel  coming  from  under  this  grate,  and  as- 
cending  to  the  top  of  the  chafing-dish,  which  is 
to  give  air  to,  and  kindle  the  coals  which  are 
placed  on  the  grate.  This  furnace  is  sunk  in 
the  vat,  near  to  the  surface  of  the  grounds,  so  as 


i40  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

^  not  to  touch  them,  and  is  fastened  with  iron  bars 
to  prevent  its  rising.  By  this  method  the  lime 
is  raised  to  the  surface  of  the  liquor,  which  gives 
an  opportunity  to  take  off  with  a  sieve  what  is 
thought  superfluous ;  but  when  this  is  taken 
out,  the  necessary  quantity  of  ware  must  be 
carefully  restored  to  the  vat.  Others  again  thin 
the  vat  with  pearlash,  or  tartar  boiled  in  stale 
iirine  :  but  the  best  cure,  when  she  is  too  hard, 
is,  to  put  in  bran  and  madder  at  discretion ;  and 
if  she  be  but  a  little  too  hard,  it  will  suffice  to 
let  her  remain  quiet  four,  five,  or  six  hours,  or 
more,  putting  in  only  two  quarts  of  bran  and 
three  or  four  pounds  of  madder,  which  are  to  be 
lightly  strewed  on  the  vat,  after  which  it  is  to  be 
covered.  Four  or  five  hours  after,  she  is  to  be 
raked  and  plunged,  and  accordir^g  to  the  colour, 
that  the  flurry  which  arises  froui  this  motion,  as- 
sumes and  imprints  on  the  whole  liquor,  a  fresh 
proof  is  made  by  putting  in  a  pattern. 

If  she  is  cracked,  and  casts  blue  only  when 
she  is  cold,  she  must  be  If-ft  undisturbed,  some- 
times whole  daj^s  w  ithout  raking  ;  when  she 
begins  to  strike  a  tolenible  pattern,  her  liquor 
must  be  reheated  or  warme  d  ;  then  commonly 
the  lime,  which  seemed  to  have  lost  all  pov\  er  to 
excite  a  fermentation,  acqiures  ne\v  strength, 
and  prevents  the  vat  from  yielding  its  dye  so 
soon.  If  she  is  to  be  hastened,  some  bran  and 
madder  are  to  be  thrown  on,  as  also  one  or  two 
baskets  of  new  woad,  which  helps^  the  hquor 
that  has  been  reheated  to  spend  its  lime-^ 

C.;re  must  be  tnk^^n  to  put  patterns  in  each 
hour,  in  order  to  judge,  by  the-  green  colour 
whl  h  they  acquire,  how  the  lime  is  worked 
on.  By  these  triaK  she  may  be  conducted  w  ith 
more  exactness,  for  when  once  a  vat  is  cracked, 
bv  t'.o  great  ortr^o  sm^ll  a  q^^antity  of  lime,  she 
is  brought  to  bear  with  much  more  difficulty. 


141 

If  while  you  are  endeavouring  to  bring  her  to 
work,  the  bever  grows  a  little  too  cold,  it  must 
be  heated  by  tak  ing  off  some  of  the  clear,  and 
instead  therof,  adding  some  warm  water  ;  for 
when  the  bever  is  cold,  the  woad  spends  little  or 
no  lime  ;  when  it  is  too  hot,  it  retards  the  action 
of  the  woad,  and  prevents  it  from  spending  the 
lime  ;  therefore  it  is  better  to  wait  a  little,  than 
to  hasten  the  vats  to  come  to  w^ork  when  they 
are  cracke^d.     A  vat  is  known  not  to  have  been 
sufficiently  servtd  with  lime,  and  that  she  is 
cracked,  wl^en  the  bever  gives  no  flurry,  but  in- 
ste'id  thereof  gives  only  a  scum,  and  when  she  is 
phmged  or  raked,  she  only  works,  ferments  and 
hisses,  (this  noise  is  made  by  a  great  number  of 
air  bubbles  that  burst  as  soon  as  the3^  form),  the 
liquor  has  also  the  smell  of  a  common  sewer  or 
sink,  or  rotten  eggs  ;  it  is  harsh  and  dry  to  the 
touch ;    the  grounds  when   taken  out  do  not 
change,  which  generally  happens  when  a  vat  is 
cracked  for  want   of  lime.      This  accident  is 
chiefly  to  be  apprehended  v\hen  a  vat  is  opened 
and  a  dip  made  in  her;  f (  r  if  her  state  has  not 
been  looked  into,  both  in  regard  to  the  smell  as 
well  as  raking  and  plungii^g,  and  that  the  stuffs 
be  imprudt  ntly  put  in  when  the  w^oad  has  spent 
its  lime  it  is  to  be  feared  the  vat  may  be  lost  ; 
for  the  stufl^s  being  put  in,  the  small  quantity  of" 
lime  that  still  remains  in  a  state  to  act,  sticks  to 
them,  the  bever  is  divested  of  it,  and  the  stuffs 
only  blotted  ;  these  must  be  immediately  taken 
out.,  and  a  quick  remedy  applied  to  the  vat,  to 
preserve  the  remaining  part  of  the  dye,  which  is 
done  by  putting  in  three  or  four  measures  of 
lime,  more  or  less,  according  as  the  vat  is  crack- 
ed, and  that  without  raking  her  bottom. 

It  is  also  to  be  observed,  that  if  in  raking  and 
plunging  the  fermentation  ceases,  and  the  bad 
smell  change,  it  is  then  to  be  supposed  diat  the. 
N2 


142  APPENDIX  TO  TH& 

bevcr  or  liquor  alone  has  suffered,  and  that  the 
grounds  are  not  yet  in  want.  When  the  fer- 
mentation is  in  part  or  totally  abated,  and  the 
bever  has  a  smell  of  lime,  and  feels  soft  to  the 
tooch,  the  vat  is  to  be  covered  and  left  at  rest ; 
and  if  the  flurry  still  remains  on  the  vat  an  hour 
and  a  half,  a  pattern  is  to  be  put  in  which  must  be 
taken  out  one  hour  after,  and  you  are  to  be 
guided  according  to  the  green  ground  it  will 
take.  But  generally  vats  thut  are  thus  cracked, 
are  not  so  soon  brought  to  a  state  fit  for  dying. 

I  shall  make  same  reflections  necessary  to  at- 
tend a  more  perfect  knowledge  of  this  process. 
The  woad  vat  must  never  be  re-heated  but 
when  fit  for  working  ;  that  is,  she  must  have 
neither  too  much  nor  too  little  lime,  but  be  in 
such  a  state  as  only  to  want  heating  to  come 
to  work.  It  is  known  she  has  too  much  lime 
(as  has  been  before  observed)  by  the  quick 
smell ;  on  the  contrary,  a  want  is  known  by  the 
sweetish  smell,  and  by  the  scum  which  rises  on 
the  surface  by  raking,  being  of  a  pale  blue ;  but 
when  this  w  oad  vat  has  come  to  work  the  same 
process  is  to  be  obserN  ed  as  in  the  preceding, 
dip  and  air  to  give  it  the  blue. 

If  the  cloth  or  wool  was  not  deep  enough  for 
a  mazarine  blue  by  the  first  dipping,  it  must 
get  another,  by  returning  into  the  vat  the  end 
of  the  piece  of  cloth  which  first  came  out ;  and 
according  to  the  vtreiigth  of  the  woad,  you  must 
give  to  this  striking  two  or  three  returns,  as 
may  be  thought  necessary  for  the  imensity  of 
the  blue  required.  If  the  woad  be  good,  such 
as  the  true  L' Auragais  is  commonly,  after  tak- 
ing out  the  first  stirring,  a  second  may  be  put 
in  at  this  first  (opening  of  the  vat.  After  mak- 
ing  this  c^penii^g,  which  is  also  called  the  first 
raking,  the  vat  is  to  be  again  raked,  and  served 
with  lime  at  discretion,  observiiig  ihat  it  has  the 


fiYER^S  COMPANION.  146 

smell  and  touch  conformable  to  what  has  been 
laid  down  before,  and  taking  notice,  that  in  pro- 
portion as  the  dye  diminishes,  so  does  the 
strength  of  the  woad. 

As  has  been  observed,  the  latter  end  of  the 
week  the  light  blues  are  made,  and  on  Monday 
morning  the  bever  or  dye  liquor  is  put  to  boil  as 
before  described,  and  a  kettle  of  indigo  put  in. 

When  the  vat  is  filled  within  fuur  inches  of 
the  brim,  and  well  raked,  she  must  be  covered, 
and  two  hours  after  a  pattern  put  in,  which 
must  remain  not  more  than  an  hour  ;  Hme  must 
be  added  according  to  the  sh  de  of  the  green, 
which  this  proof  pattern  shall  have  ti)ken,  and 
at  the  expiration  of  an  hour  or  two,  if  the  vat 
has  not  suffered,  the  stuff  is  to  be  put  in  ;  hav- 
ing  conducted  it  between  two  waters  for  abr  ut 
half  an  hour  it  is  wrung,  and  a  dip  is  ngain  giv^^n 
to  it,  as  was  done  hi  the  new  vat.  This  vat  heat- 
ed again,  is  conducted  in  the  same  manner, 
that  is,  three  r;jkings  are  made  the  first  day,  ob- 
serving at  each  raking,  whether  she  wants  lime  ; 
f  )r  in  this  case,  the  quantity  judged  necessary 
must  be  given. 

Blue  made  of  woad  alone,  according  to  the 
opinion  of  some  persons  prejudiced  in  fav<)ur  of 
old  custorns,  is  much  better  than  that  which 
the  woad  gives  with  the  addition  of  indigo.  But 
then  this  blue  would  be  much  dearer,  because 
woad  gives  much  less  dye  than  indigo,  and 
it  has  been  found  by  repeated  experience,  that 
four  pounds  of  fi!ie  indigo  from  Guatimala,  pro- 
duced as  much  as  a  bale  of  Albjgeois  v\oad  or 
pastel ;  and  five  pounds  as  much  as  a  bale  from 
L'Auragais,  which  generally  weighs  ti»  o  hun- 
dred and  ten  pounds.  So  the  usntg  of  the  in- 
digo  with  the  woad  is  a  great  saving,  as  one  vat 
with  indigo  shall  dye  as  much  as  three  w  ith- 
eut  it. 

Indigo  is  generally  put  into  new  vats  after  the 


144  APPENDIX  TO   THE' 

woad  yields  its  blue,  and  a  quarter  or  half  after 
she  is  to  be  served  vvith  lime  ;  as  this  solution 
of  indigo  is  already  impregnated  with  some  of 
its  dissolution,  the  lime  must  be  given  uith  a 
more  sp  »ring  hand  than  where  the  woad  is  used 
alone.  At  the  re- heating,  the  indigo  is  put  in  on 
Saturday  niglit,  that  it  may  incorporate  w  ith  the 
bever,  and  that  it  may  serve  as  furnish  by  its 
lirne.  The  indig' >  th-it  is  brought  from  Guatima- 
la  in  America  is  the  b^st  ;  it  is  brought  over  in 
the  shape  of  small  stones,  and  of  a  deep  blue ; 
it  must  be  of  a  de^p  violet  colour  within  and 
'Nvhen  rubbed  on  the  nail,  have  a  copper  hue  ; 
the  lightest  is  the  best.  It  is  necessary  to  ob- 
serve that  for  the  better  conducting  of  a  wond 
vat,  and  to  prevent  accidents,  a  manufacturer 
ought  to  have  a  good  woadman,  this  is  the  name 
givrn  to  the  journeyman  dyer,  whose  prii^cipal 
business  is  to  conduct  the  woad ;  practice  has 
taught  him  more  than  this  treatise  can  furnish. 

Care  must  be  taken  when  a  vat  is  intended  to 
be  re-heated,  not  to  serve  her  with  lime  in  the 
evening,  (unless  in  great  want  of  it)  for  if  she 
was  too  much  served  with  it,  she  might  next 
day  be  too  hard,  as  the  dyers  term  it  ;  for  l)y 
he:iting  her  <  gain,  i?  greater  action  is  given  to  the 
lime,  and  makes  her  spend  it  the  quicker.  Fresh 
indigo  is  commonly  put  into  the  vat,  each  time 
she  is  re. heated,  in  proportion  to  the  qnantity 
to  be  dyed.  It  would  be  needless  to  put  in 
any,  if  there  was  but  little  work  to  do,  or  only 
light  colours  wanted.  It  was  not  permitted  by 
the  ancient  regulations  of  France,  to  put  more 
than  six  pounds  of  indigo  to  each  bale  of  woad, 
because  the  colour  of  the  indigo  was  thought 
not  lasting,  and  that  it  w^as  only  the  great  quan- 
tity of  woad  which  could  secure  and  render  it 
good;  but  it  is  now  ascertained,  both  by  the 
experiments  of  Monsieur  Dufay,  and  those 
which  I  have  since  made,  that  the  colour  of  in- 


145^ 

digo,  even  used  alone,  is  full  as  good,  and  re- 
sists as  much  the  action  of  the  air,  sun  and  rain, 
as  that  of  pastel  or  woad. 

When  a  vat  has  been  heated  two  or  three 
times,  and  a  good  part  has  been  Vv^orked  off,  the 
same  liquor  is  often  preserved,  but  part  of  the 
grounds  are  taken  out,   which  is  replaced  by 
new  woad  ;  (this  is  called  vamping) ;  the  quanti- 
ty  cannot  be  prescribed  on  this  occasion,  for  it 
depends  upon  the  work  the  dyer  has  to  do. 
Practice  will  teach  all  that  can  be  wished  for  on 
this  head.    There  are  dyers  who  preserve  liquor 
in  their  vats  sevenil  years,  renewing  them  with 
woad  and  indigo  in  proportion  as  they  work 
them  •,  others  empty  the  vat  entirely,  and  change 
the  liquor  when  the  vat  has  been  heated  six  or 
seven^  times,  and   that  she  gives  no  more  dye. 
A  series  of  practice   alone  will  show  which  of 
these  is  pref  rble.     It  is  however  more  rea. 
sonable  to  think,  that  by  renew  ing  it  now  and 
then,  more  lively  and  beautiful  colours  may  be 
obtained,  and  the  best  dyers  follow  this  me- 
thod. 

In  Holland  they  have  vats  which  do  not  re- 
quire to  be  so  often  heated.  Mr.  Van  Robbais 
had  some  of  these  made  som^*  years  since  for 
their  roynl  manufactory  at  Abbeville.  The 
upper  parts  of  these  vats,  to  the  height  of  three 
feet,  are  of  copper,  and  the  rest  lead.  They 
are  also  surrou^d^d  with  a  smdl  brick  wall, 
at  seven  or  eight  inches  from  the  copper;  in 
this  interval  embers  are  put,  v^  hich  keep  up  the 
heat  of  the  vat  a  lo^g  time,  so  that  she  remains 
several  days  together  in  a  condition  to  be  work- 
ed, without  the  trouble  of  heatitig  her  over 
again.  These  vats  are  much  more  costly  than 
the  others,  but  they  are  very  convenient,  espe- 
ciallv  for  the  dipping  of  very  light  colours ; 
because  the  vat  is  always  fit  to  work,  though 


r46  APPENDIX  TO  THJB^ 

she  be  very  weak  ;  this  is  not  the  case  of  the 
others,  which  gent^rally  make  the  colour  a  great 
deal  deeper  than  n  quired,  unless  they  are  set  to 
eool  considerably,  and  then  it  happens  that  the 
colour  is  not  so  good,  nor  has  it  the  same 
brightness.  To  make  these  light  colours  in 
common  vats,  it  is  better  to  work  some  pur- 
posely  that  are  strong  with  woad  and  weak  of 
indigo  ;  such  give  their  colours  slower,  and 
light  colours  are  made  with  greater  eise. 

As  to  the  vats  made  in  the  Dutch  fashion, 
and  which  have  already  been  mentioned,  the  "^ 
four  which  Mr.  Van  Robbais  has  in  his  manu- 
factory, are  six  feet  in  depth,  of  which  three 
feet  and  a  half  in  the  upper  part  are  copper,  and 
the  two  feet  and  a  half  of  the  bottom  are  lead. 
The  diameter  at  the  bottom  is  four  feet  and  a 
half,  and  that  at  the  top  five  feet  four  inches. 

To  return  to  the  observations  on  heating  the 
common  vats.  If  the  vat  was  heated  when 
cracked,  that  is,  when  she  has  not  quite  lime 
enough,  she  would  turn  in  the  heating  without 
being  perceived,  and  perchance  be  entirely  lost 
as  the  heat  would  soon  finish  the  spending  of 
the  lime,  which  was  in  too  small  a  quantity  If 
this  is  perceived  in  time,  it  must  be  helped  by 
pouring  it  back  iuto  the  vat  without  more  heat- 
ing ;  then  feed  her  with  lime,  and  not  heat  her 
till  she  is  come  to  work. 

On  the  re  heating,  some  of  the  grounds  must 
be  put  into  the  copper  with  the  liquor  or  bever ; 
and  great  care  niust  be  taken  not  to  boil  it  be- 
cause the  volatile  necessary  in  this  operation 
would  evaporate.  There  are  some  dyers,  who, 
in  heating  their  vats,  do  not  put  the  indigo  im- 
mediately after  the  liquor  is  poured  from  the 
copper  into  the  vat,  but  wait  some  hours  till  they 
see  her  come  to  work :  this  they  do  as  a  precau- 
tiouj  lest  the  vat  should  fail,  and  the  indigo  be 


BYER^S   COMPANION".  147 

lost ;  but  by  this  method,  the  indigo  does  not 
so  freely  yitid  it^  cohnir,  as  they  are  obliged  to 
work  her  as  soon  as  she  is  fit,  that  bhe  may  not 
cool,  so  that  the  indigo,  nut  beii^g  entirely  dis- 
solved, nor  altogether  nicorporated,  has  no  ef- 
feet.  It  is  therefore  better  to  put  it  into  the  vat 
at  the  same  time  the  liquor  is  cast  in,  and  rake 
her  well  nftrr.  If  the  vat  is  heated  over  again 
without  her  coming  to  work,  she  must  not  be 
scummed  as  in  the  common  heatings  as  the  hidi- 
go  would  be  carried  off  thereby,  whereas,  when 
she  has  worked,  this  scum  is  formed  of  the 
earthy  part  of  the  indigo  and  woad,  united  with 
a  portion  of  lime. 

When  too  much  lime  is  put  into  a  vat,  you 
must  wait  for  her  till  such  time  as  she  has  spent 
it,  or  it  may  be  accelerated  by  heating  it,  or  by 
putting  in  ingredients  which  destroy  in  part  the 
aciion  of  the  lime,  such  as  tartar,  vinegar,  honey, 
bran,  some  mineral  acid,  or  any  matter  that 
will  become  sour  ;  but  all  these  correctors  wear 
out  the  dye  of  the  indigo  and  woad,  so  that  the 
best  method  is,  to  let  it  vspend  of  its  own  accords 
A  vat  is  not  commonly  ft  d  with  lime,  but  on 
the  first,  second?  and  sometimes  the  third  day^ 
and  it  is  also  remarked,  not  to  dip  the  violets, 
purples,  or  any  other  wool  or  stufis  which  have 
previously  a  colour  that  may  be  easily  damaged; 
the  succeeding  day  after  its  being  fed  with  lime, 
as  it  is  then  too  active,  it  dulls  the  first  colour  ; 
the  fifth  or  sixth  day  the  crimsons  may  be  dipt 
to  give  them  a  violet,  and  the  yellows  for  green  ; 
following  this  rule,  the  colours  will  always  be 
bright. 

When  a  vat  has  been  re- heated,  she  must 
come  to  work  before  she  is  served  with  lime ; 
if  this  was  done  a  little  too  soon,  she  nmst  be 
cracked  ;  the  same  thing  would  h^ippen  if  some 
of  the  grounds  were  put  into  the  copper.    The 


148  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

most  effectual  method  ia  this  case  is  to  let  her 
rest  before  she  is  worked,  until  she  comes  to, 
which  often  happens  in  two,  three,  or  four 
hours,  and  sometimes  a  day.  By  using  light  or 
weak  lime,  she  grows  too  hard  ;  because  this 
light  lime  rernains  in  the  liquor,  and  does  not 
incorporate  with  the  grounds.  This  is  known 
by  the  strong  smell  of  the  liquor,  and  on  the 
contrary  the  grounds  have  a  sweetish  sme^ll, 
whereas  the  sniell  ought  to  beequal  in  both.  The 
best  way  then  is,  to  let  it  spend  itself,  by  raking 
her  often,  in  order  to  mix  the  lime  with  the 
grounds,  until  the  smell  of  the  vat  is  restored, 
and  the  flurry  becomes  blue.^ 

A  woad  vat  may  be  set  without  the  addition 
of  indigo,  but  then  she  yields  but  little  colour, 
and  ^  only  dyes  a  small  quantity  of  wool  or 
stuffs  ;  tor  one  pound  of  indigo,  as  has  already 
been  observed,  affords  as  much  dye  as  fifteen  or 
sixteen  pounds  of  woad.  I  set  one  of  this  kind 
to  try  the  qualities  of  woad  by  itself,  and  I  could 
not  find  that  indigo  was  any  way  inferior  to  it, 
either  for  the  beauty  or  solidity  of  the  colour. 
As  lirne  is  always  used,  and  sometimes  sour  li- 
quors, in  tlie  setting  of  a  woad  yat  their  prepara- 
tion are  spoken  of  in  the  preceding. 

Recei/ii  \2\sC.     Another  7ne  hod  for  blue^  as  firacchei 
in  America, 

To  set  a  vat  of  nine  barrels,  fill  your  vat 
about  half  full  of  boiling  water,  put  two  pounds 
of  potash  dissolved  as  before  described,  then 
add  twelve  q  jarts  of  wheat  bran  clear  from 
the  kernel,  spr-]  kle  it  into  the  vat  with  your 
hand,  then  take  one  pound  of  good  madler,  then 
with  the  raj^e  mix  it  with  your  dj^e,  then  add 
two  pounds  of  indig  )  well  ground,  wet  with 
^ariiue,  cover  the  vat  closely  ;  when  you  have  in- 


DYER'S   COMPANIOX.  149 

troduced  all  the  ingredients,  the  indigo  being  the 
last  article,  rake  well  and  cover  close,  if  possible 
to  exclude  the  circulation  of  the  air  ;  let  it  re- 
main eight  or  nine  hours,  then  plunge  and  rake 
well  with  exertion  and  activity  ;  bubbles  will 
appear  by  repeating  the  plunges,  and  if  a  thick 
blue  froth  rises  on  the  surface  of  the  dye,  vvliich 
is  called  the  head,  continuing  to  float  and  the 
dye  appears  of  a  darkish  green,  the  dye  is  in  a 
good  state,  and  is  fit  for  colouring  ;  it  may  be 
necessary  to  repeat  the  plunging  and  raking 
three  or  four  times,  remember  after  you  have 
done  raking  to  cover  close  ;  keep  the  heat  regu- 
lar. If  the  dye  should  cool  before  it  comes  to 
work  you  would  have  to  reheat,  but  if  you  have 
a  flew  round  your  vat  you  may  keep  up  the 
heat  and  save  trouble  ;  if  the  dye  when  opened 
in  the  morning  appear  of  a  pale  blue  cast?  instead 
of  a  dark  green,  a  handful  or  two  of  madder,  say 
half  a  pound  must  be  sprinkled  in  the  vat ;  the 
dye  should  continue  the  heat  near  scalding.  If 
the  dye  appear  of  a  pale  colour,  two  quarts  of 
lime  water  must  be  added  ;  be  cautious  not  to 
open  the  vat  often ;  let  it  stand  at  least  two 
hours  between  each  raking.  After  the  vat  is 
set  and  come  to  a  head,  let  it  stand  secure  till 
employed  for  dyhig  :  when  the  goods  are  ready 
for  colouring,  the  dye  must  be  heated,  and  add 
three  pounds  of  indigo  as:before,together  with  the 
same  proportions  of  potash,  madder  and  wheat 
bran,  and  six  pounds  of  woad,  heatjiot,  and  fill 
the  vat  within  four  inches  of  the  top,  cover  close 
and  follow  the  same  processes  in  plunging  and 
raking  as  before.  If  the  dye  is  in  good  state 
there  will  be  ten  or  twelve  quarts  of  froth  or  head 
floating  on  the  surface  of  the  dye,  the  colour  o^ 
which  will  be  of  a  beautiful  dark  blue  and  the 
dye  of  a  dark  green  :  this  is  the  proper  state  of 
the  dye ;  have  your  goods  prepared  in  hot  v/alcr 
O 


150  APPENDIX  TO  TH£ 

with  pearlash,  take  it  up,  let  drean,  open  the  vat, 
take  off  the  head  and  follow  the  same  process; 
(if  cloth,  as  in  receipt  No.  1  ;  if  wool,  as  in  re. 
ceiptNo.  120),  the  utejisilsare  die  same  in  all 
blue  dying  of  wool  and  woollen  goods,  the  cloth 
when  first  taken  out  of  the  vat  will  exhii)it  a 
green  appearance,  by  being  exposed  to  the  air 
will  become  blue,  fold  it  over  till  well  exposed 
to  the  air  and  all  turned  blue  ;  be  cautious  and 
not  expose  any  part  of  tli^  goods  to  the  air,  to 
take  off  the  green  while  in  the  vat,  it  will  make 
the  goods  uneven ;  give  your  goods  three  or 
four  stirrings  or  dippings,  till  your  colour  suits : 
put  back  the  head,  cover  close  and  rake  well, 
and  let  stand  one  hour,  never  dip  till  the  sedi- 
ment is  well  settled  ;  when  the  liquor  is  thick 
and  glutinous  by  use,  it  must  be  boiled,  and 
the  scum  taken  off  and  returned  into  the  vat, 
add  one  gallon  of  lime  w  ater  to  cleanse  the  dye 
and  settle  the  grounds.  In  hot  weather  if  you 
are  not  using  your  dye,  it  must  be  heated  as 
often  as  once  in  sixty  days  and  raked  frequent- 
ly ;  when  all  your  goods  are  dyed  open  the 
vat  and  give  it  the  air  till  cold,  then  cover  to 
keep  out  the  insects,  &c. 

Receijit  \22d.  Of  setting  and  working  a  vat  as  firaC" 
tised  at  Paris j  in  France, 

It  is  a  vat  which  is  about  five  feet  in  height, 
two  feet  diameter,  and  becomes  narrow  towards 
the  bottom  ;  she  is  surrounded  with  a  wall  that 
leaves  a  space  round  her,  which  serves  to  hold 
embers.  In  a  vat  of  this  size,  two  pounds  of 
indigo  may  at  least  be  used,  and  five  or  six  for 
the  greatest  proportion.  To  set  a  vat  of  two 
pounds  of  indigo  in  such  a  vessel  that  may  con- 
tain about  twenty  gallons,  about  fifteen  gallons 
Qf  river  water  are  set  to  boil  in  a  copper  for  the 


dyer's  COMPANIO]^,  151 

space  of  half  an  hour,  with  two  pounds  of  pearl . 
ash,  two  ounces  of  madder,  and  a  handful  of 
bran  ;  during  this,  the  indigo  is  prepared  after  . 
the  following  manner  :  ^ 

Two  pounds  of  it  are  weighed  out,  and  cast 
into  a  pail  of  cold  water  to  separate  the  earthy 
parts.  The  water  is  afterwards  poured  off  by 
inclination,  and  the  indigo  well  ground  ;  a  little 
warm  water  is  put  into  it,  shaking  it  from  side 
to  side  ;  it  is  poured  by  inclination  into  another 
vessel ;  w^hat  remains  is  still  ground,  and  fresh 
water  put  in  to  carry  ofl]  the  finest  parts,  and 
thus  continued  till  all  the  indigo  is  reduced  into 
a  powder,  fine  enough  to  be  raised  by  the  w\ater. 
This  is  all  the  preparation  it  undergoes.  Then 
the  liquor  which  has  boiled  in  the  copper  with 
the  grounds  is  poured  into  the  high  and  nar- 
row vat,  as  likewise  the  indigo ;  the  whole  is 
then  raked  with  a  small  rake,  the  vat  is  covered, 
and  embers  placed  round  her*  If  this  work 
was  begun  in  the  afternoon,  a  few  embers  are 
added  at  night ;  the  same  is  repeated  the  next 
day  morning  and  night.  The  vat  is  also  lightly 
raked  twice  the  second  day  ;  the  third  day,  the 
embers  are  continued  to  be  put  round,  to  keep 
up  the  heat  of  the  vat ;  she  is  raked  twice  in  the 
day  :  about  this  time,  a  shining  copper-colour^ 
ed  skin  begins  to  apppear  on  the  surface  of  the 
liquor,  and  appears  as  if  it  vv^as  broken  or  crack- 
ed in  several  places.  Tiie  fourth  day,  by  con- 
tinuing the  fire,  this  skin  or  pedicle  is  more 
formed  and  closer  ;  the  flurry,  which  rises  in 
raking  the  vat,  appears,  and  the  liquor  becomes 
of  a  deep  green. 

When  the  liquor  is  in  this  state,  it  is  a  sign 
that  it  is  time  to  fill  the  vat.  For  this  purpose 
a  fresh  liquor  is  made,  by  putting  into  a  cop- 
per about  twenty  quarts  of  water,  with  one 
pound  of  pearlash,  a  handful  of  bran,  and  half 
an  ounce  of  madder.    This  is  boiled  a  quarter 


152  APPINDIX  TO  THfi; 

of  an  hour,  and  the  vat  is  served  with  it;  sh& 
is  then  raked,  and  causes  a  great  quantity  oi 
flurry  to  rise,  and  the  vat  comes  to  work  the 
r.ext  day;  this  is  known  by  the  quantity  of 
flurry  with  which  she  is  covered  by  tiie  skin  or 
cop>per> scaly  crust  Vvhich  sv/ims  on  the  liquor, 
which,  although  it  appears  of  a  blue-brown,  is 
nevertheless  green  underneath. 

This  vat  was  much  longer  coming  to  its  co- 
lour than  the  others,  because  the  fire  was  too 
strong  the  second  day,  otherwise  she  would 
have  been  fit  to  work  two  days  sooner.  This 
did  no  other  damage  but  retarded  her,  and  the 
day  she  came  to  work,  w^e  dipt  in  serges  weigh, 
ing  thirteen  or  fourteen  pounds.  As  this  caus- 
ed her  to  lose  her  strength,  and  the  liquor  be- 
ing diminished  by  the  pieces  of  stuff  that  had 
been  dyed  in  her,  she  was  served  in  the  after- 
noon with  fresli  liquor,  made  with  one  pound 
of  pearlash,  half  an  ounce  of  madder,  and  a 
handful  of  bran  ;  the  whole  was  boiled  together 
in  a  copper  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  ;  the  vat  be- 
ing served  Vtdth  it,  she  was  raked,  covered,  and 
a  few  embers  put  round.  She  may  be  preserv- 
ed after  this  manner  several  days^  and  when  she 
is  wanted  to  v/ork,  she  must  be  raked  over 
night,  and  a  little  fire  place  about  her. 

When  there  is  occasion  to  re-heat,  and  add 
indigo  to  this  kind  of  vat,  two-thirds  of  the  li- 
quor (which  then  is  no  more  green,  but  of  a 
blue. brown  and  almost  black)  is  put  into  a  cop- 
per ;  when  it  is  ready  to  boil,  all  the  scum  that 
is  formed  at  the  top  is  taken  off  widi  a  sieve  ;  it 
is  afterwards  made  to  boil,  and  two  handfuls  of 
bran,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  madder,  and  two 
pounds  of  pearlash  are  added.  The  fire  is  then 
removed  from  the  copper,  and  a  little  cold  wa- 
ter cast  into  it  to  stop  the  boil ;  after  which  the 
whole  is  put  into  the  vat,  with  one  pound  of 


dyer's  companion,  153 

powdered  indigo,  diluted  in  a  portion  of  the  li- 
quor as  before  related  ;  after  this  the  vat  is  rak- 
ed, covered,  and  some  fire  put  round  ;  the 
next  day  she  is  fit  to  work. 

When  the  indigo  vat  has  been  re-heated  sever- 
al times,  it  is  necessary  to  empty  her  entirely, 
and  to  set  a  fresh  one,  or  she  will  not  give  a 
lively  dye  ;  when  she  is  too  old  and  stale,  the 
liquor  is  not  of  so  fine  a  green  as  at  first. 

I  put  several  other  vats  to  work  after  the  same 
method,  with  different  quantities  of  indigo,  from 
one  pound  to  six  ;  always  observing  to  augment 
or  diminish  the  other  ingredients  in  proportion, 
but  always  one  pound  of  pearlash  to  each  pound 
of  indigo.  I  have  since  made  other  experiments, 
which  proved  to  me  that  this  proportion  was  not 
absolutely  necessary  ;  and  I  rnake  no  doubt  but 
tiiat  several  other  means  might  be  found  to 
make  the  indigo  come  to  as  perfect  a  colour.  I 
shall,  nevertheless,  proceed  to  some  other  ob- 
servations on  this  vat. 

Of  all  those  I  set  to  work,  after  the  manner 
descril^ed,  one  only  fiuled  me,  and  that  by  neg- 
lecting to  put  fire  round  her  the  second  day. 
She  never  came  to  a  proper  colour;  powdered 
arsenic  was  put  in  to  no  effect ;  red-hot  bricks 
were  also  plunged  in  at  different  times  ;  the  li- 
quor turned  of  a  greenish  hue,  but  never  came 
to  the  proper  colour  ;  and  having  attempted  se- 
veral other  means  without  success,  or  without 
being  able  to  find  out  the  cause  of  her  not  suc- 
ceeding, I  caused  the  liquor  to  be  emptied  and 
cast  away. 

All  the  other  accidents  that  have  happened 
me  in  conducting  the  indigo  vat,  have  only 
lengthened  the  operation;  so  that  this  process 
may  be  looked  upon  as  verj'  easy  v'hen  com- 
pared to  that  of  the  woad  vat.  I  have  also  made 
several  experiments  on  both,  in  which  my  chief. 
02 


154  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

view  was  to  shorten  the  time  of  the  common 
preparation  ;   but  not  meeting  with  the  desired 
success,  I  shall  not  relate  them. 
^  The  liquor  of  the   indigo  vat  is  not  exactly 
like  that  of  the  woad  ;  its  surface  is  of  a  blue- 
brown,   covered  with  coppery  scales,  and  the 
under  part  of  a  beautiful  green.     The  stuff  or 
wool  dyed  in  this  is  green  when  taken  out,  and   ' 
becomes  blue  a  moment  after.     We  have  al-  1 
ready  ^  seen  that  the  same  happens  to  the  stuff  ] 
dyed  in  the  w  oad  vat ;  but  it  is  remarkable  that   ' 
the  liquor  of  the  last  is  not  green,  and  yet  pro- 
duces on  the  vvoad  the  same  effect  as  the  other. 
It  nriustalso  be  observed,  that  if  the  liquor  of  the 
indigo  vat  be  removed  out  of  the  vessel  in  which 
it  was  contained,  and  if  too  long  exposed  to  the 
air,  it  loses  its  green  and  all  its  quality,  so  that, 
although  it  gives  a  blue  colour,  that  colour  is 
not  lasting. 

Receipt  123cf.    The  Cold  Vat  with  Urine. 

A  VAT  is  also  prepared  with  urine,  which 
yields  its  colour  cold,  and  is  worked  cold  :  for 
this  purpose  four  pounds  of  indigo  are  powdered, 
which  is  to  be  digested  on  warm  ashes  twenty- 
four  hours,  in  four  quarts  of  vinegar ;  if  it  is  not 
then  well  dissolved,  it  must  be  ground  again 
with  the  liquor,  and  urine  is  to  be  added  little 
bv  little,  with  half  a  pound  of  madder,  which 
must  be  well  diluted  by  stirring  the  liquor  with 
a  stick  ;  when  this  preparation  is  made,  it  is 
poured  into  a  vessel  filled  with  63  gallons  of 
urine  ;  it  matters  not  whether  it  be  fresh  or 
stale  ;  the  Vv^hole  is  well  stirred  and  raked  toge- 
ther night  and  morning  for  eight  days,  or  till  the 
vat  appears  green  at  the  surface  when  raked,  or 
that  she  makes  flurry  as  the  common  vat  ;  she 
is  then  fit  to  work,  without  more  trouble  than 


dyer's    tfOMPAKION.  155 

previously  raking  her  two  or  three  hours  before. 
This  kind  of  vat  is  extremely  convenient,  for 
when  once  set  to  work,  she  remains  goodtillshe  be 
entirely  drawn,  that  is  till  the  indigo  has  given 
all  its  colour  ;  thus  she  may  be  worked  at  all 
times,  whereas  the  common  vat  must  be  pre- 
pared the  day  before. 

This  vat  may  at  pleasure  be  made  more  or 
less  considerable  by  augmenting  or  diminishing 
the  ingredients  in  proportion  to  the  indigo  in- 
tended to  be  made  useof;  so  that  to  each  pound 
of  indigo  add  a  quart  of  vinegar,  two  ounces  of 
madder,  15  or  18  gallons  of  urine.  This  vnt 
comes  sooner  to  work  in  summer  that  in  winter, 
and  may  be  brought  sooner  to  work  by  warm- 
ing some  of  the  liquor  without  boiling,  and  re- 
turning it  into  the  vat ;  this  process  is  so  simple 
that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  fail. 

When  the  indigo  is  quite  spent,  and  gives  no 
more  dye,  the  vat  maybe  charged  again  with- 
out setting  a  new  one.  ^  For  this  purpose,  indigo 
must  be  dissolved  in  vinegar,  adding  madder  in 
proportion  to  the  indigo,  pouring  the  whole  into 
the  vat,  and  raking  her  night  and  morning,  and 
evening  as  at  first,  she  will  be  as  good  as  before; 
however  she  must  not  be  charged  this  way 
above  four  or  five  times,  for  the  ground  of  the 
madder  and  indigo  would  dull  the  liquor,  and 
in  consequence  render  the  colour  less  bright.  I 
did  not  try  this  method,  and  therefore  do  not 
ansvver  for  the  success  ;  but  here  follows  ano- 
ther with  urine  which  gives  a  very  lasting  blue, 
and  which  I  prepared. 

Receifit  I24r//.    Hot  Fag  with  Urine. 

A  pound  of  indigo  was  steeped  twenty-four 
hours  in  four  quarts  of  clear  urine,  and  when 
the  urine  became  very  blue  it  was  run  through 


156  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

a  fine  sieve  into  a  pail,  and  the  indigo  which  J 
could  not  pass,  and  which  remained  in  the  ^ 
sieve,  was  put  with  fore  quarts  of  fresh  urine  ; 
this  was  so  continued  till  all  the  indigo  had 
passed  through  the  sieve  with  the  urine ;  this 
lasted  about  two  hours.  At  four  in  the  after- 
noon three  liogsheads  of  urine  WTre  put  into 
the  copper,  and  it  wds  made  as  hot  as  could  be 
without  boi]ing4.  The  urine  cast  up  a  thick 
scum,  which  was  taken  up  with  a  broom  and 
cast  out  of  the  copper.  It  was  thus  scummed 
at  different  times,  till  iht^re  only  remained  a 
white  and  light  scum  ;  the  urine,  by  this  means 
sufficiently  purified  and  ready  to  boil,  was 
poured  into  the  wooden  vat,  and  the  indigo 
prepared  as  above,  put  ^  in  ;  the  vat  was  then 
raked,  the  better  to  mix  the  indigo  with  the 
urine  :  soon  after,  a  liquor  w^as  put  into  the 
vat,  made  of  two  quarts  of  urine,  a  pound  of 
roach-allum,  and  a  pound  of  red  tartar.  To 
make  this  liquor,  the  allum  and  tartar  were  first 
put  into  the  mortar,  and  reduced  to  a  fine 
powder,  upon  which  the  two  quarts  of  urine 
were  poured,  and  the  whole  rubbed  together, 
till  this  mixture,  which  rose  all  of  a  sudden, 
ceased  to  ferment  :  it  was  then  put  into  the  vat, 
w^hich  was  strongly  raked  ;  and  being  covered 
with  its  wooden  cover,  she  was  left  in  that 
state  all  night;  the  next  morning  the  liquor 
was  of  a  very  green  colour ;  this  was  a  sign  she 
was  come  to  vvork,  and  that  she  might  have 
been  worked  if  thought  proper,  but  nothing  was 
dyed  in  her  ;  for  r:ll  that  was  done,  was  only, 
pr  ^pi  rly  speaking,  the  first  prepv^ration  of  the  vat, 
and  the  indigo  'vhich  had  been  put  in  was  only 
intended  to  feed  the  urine,  so  that  to  finish  the 
preparation  the  vat  vvas  let  to  rest  for  two  days, 
a]  \  jvs  covered,  that  she  might  cool  the  slov/er  ; 
tibana  second  pound  of  indigo  was  prepared, 


dyer's  companion.  157 

ground  with  purified  urine  as  before.  About 
four  in  the  afternoon  all  the  liquor  of  the  vat 
was  put  into  the  copper ;  it^  was  heated  as 
much  as  possible  without  boiling  ;  some  thick 
scum  formed  on  it  which  was  taken  off,  and  the 
liquor  being  ready  to  boil  was  returned  into  the 
vat.  At  the  same  time  the  ground  indigo  was 
put  in,  with  a  liquor  made  as  above  of  one 
pound  of  allum,  one  pound  of  tartar,  and  tVv^o 
quarts  of  urine,  a  fresh  pound  of  madder  w^as  al- 
so added  ;  then  the  vat  was  raked,  well  covered, 
and  left  so  the  whole  night.  The  next  morning 
she  was  com^e  to  work,  the  liquor  being  very 
hot,  and  of  a  very  fine  green,  she  was  worked 
with  w^ool  in  the  fleece,  of  which  thirty  pounds 
were  put  into  the  vat.  It  w^as  well  extended  and 
w^orked  between  the  hands,  that  the  liquor 
might  the  more  easily  soak  into  it ;  then  it  was 
left  at  rest  for  an  hour  or  two,  according  as 
lighter  or  deeper  blues  are  required. 

All  this  time  the  vat  was  well  covered,  that 
it  might  ^  the  better  retain  its  heat,  for  the  hot- 
ter she  is,  the  better  she  dyes,  and  when  cold 
acts  no  more.  When^  the  wool  came  to  the 
shade  of  the  blue  required,  it  was  taken  out  of 
the  vat  in  parcels,  about  the  bigness  of  a  man's, 
head,  twisted  and  v.rung  over  the  liquor  as  they 
were  taken  out,  till  from  green,  as  they  were 
conriing  out  of  the  vat,  they  became  blue. 
This  change  from  green  to  blue  is  made  in  three 
or  four  minutes.  These  thirty  pounds  being 
thus  dyed,  and  the  green  taken  off,  the  vat  was 
raked,  and  suffered  to  rest  for  two  hours,  being 
all  that  time  well  covered  ;  then  thirty  pounds 
more  were  put  in,  which  was  well  extended 
with  the  hands,  the  vat  was  covered,  and  in 
four  or  five  hours  this  wool  was  dyed  at  the 
height  or  shade  of  the  first  thirty  pounds  ;  it  was 
then  taken  out  in  heaps,  and  the  green  taken  off 


158  APPENDIX  TO    THE 

as  before.  This  done,  the  vat  had  still  some 
little  heat,  but  not  sufficient  to  dye  fresh  wool ; 
for  when  she  has  not  a  sufficient  heat  the  colour 
she  gives  would  neither  be  uniform  nor  lasting, 
so  that  it  must  be  reheated,  and  fresh  indigo 
put  in  as  before.  This  may  be  done  as  often 
as  judged  proper,  for  this  vat  does  not  spoil  by 
age,  provided,  that  whilst  she  is  kept  without 
w^orking,  a  little  air  is  let  into  her. 

Re-heating  of  the  Vat  with  Urine, 

About  four  in  the  afternoon,  the  whole  liquor 
of  the  vat  was  piit  into  a  copper,  and  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  urine  added  to  this  liquor,  to  make 
up  the  deficiency  that  had  been  lost  by  evapo- 
ration during  the  preceding  work.  This  fiUii  g 
commonly  takes  eight  or  nine  pails  of  urine  the 
liquor  w^as  then  heated  and  scummed  as  before, 
and  w^hen  ready  to  boil,  returned  into  tlie  vat 
with  a  pound  of  indigo,  and  the  liquor  above 
described,  consisting  of  allum  and  tartar,  of  each 
one  pound,  madder  one  pound,  and  two  quarts 
of  urine.  After  raking  the  vat  well,  and  cover .- 
ing  her,  she  was  left  at  rest  the  whole  night. 

The  next  day  she  came  to  work,  and  sixty 
pounds  of  wool  were  dyed  in  her  at  twice  as  be- 
fore. It  is  after  this  manner  all  the  re-heatuigs 
must  be  done  the  evening  before  the  dyirg,  and 
these  re-heatings  may  extend  to  infinity,  as 
the  vat,  once  set,  serves  a  long  time. 
^  I  must  here  observe,  that  the  greater  the  quan- 
tity of  indigo  put  in  at  once  is,  the  deeper  the 
blue  :  thus  instead  of  one  pound,  four,  five,  or 
six  pounds  may  be  put  in  together ;  nor  is  it 
necessary  to  augment  the  dose  of  allum,  tartar, 
or  madder,  of  which  ingredients  the  liquor  is 
composed  but  if  the  vessel  hold  more  than 
tliree  hogsheads,  then  the  dose  of  these  must  b^ 


DYER^S   COMPANION.  159 

augmented  in  proportion.  The  vat  T  iiave 
menrioned  held  three,  and  was  too  small  to  dye 
at  one  time  a  sufficient  quantity  of  wool  to  nvdke 
a  piece  of  cloth?  viz.  fifty  or  sixty  pounds  ;  fjr 
this  purpose  it  would  be  necessary  diat  the  vat 
should  contain  at  least  six  hogsheads,  and  from 
this  a  double  advantage- would  arise.  1.  All 
the  wool  will  be  dyed  in  three  or  four  hours, 
whereas  dying  it  at  twace,  it  takes  eight  or  ten 
hours.  2.  At  the  end  of  three  hours,  in  which 
time  the  w^ool  would  be  dyed,  taken  out,  and 
the  green  taken  off,  the  vat  being  yet  very  hot ; 
after  raking  and  letting  her  rest  a  coupk  of 
hours  the  same  wool  might  be  returned  into 
her,  which  would  heighten  the  colour  very 
much  ;  for  all  vvool  that  has  been  dyed,  aired, 
and  the  green  taken  off,  always  takes  a  finer 
colour  than  new  or  white  vv^ool,  which  might 
remain  twenty  hours  in  the  vat. 

Great  care  must  be  taken  to  air  and  take  off 
the  green  of  the  dyed  parcels  of  wool  that  are 
taken  out  of  the  vat  hastily,  that  the  air  may 
strike  them  equally,  without  which  the  blue 
colour  will  not  be  uniform  throughout  the  wool* 

There  are  manufacturers  who  say  that  cloths, 
whose  wool  has  received  this  ground  of  blue 
with  urine,  cannot  be  perfectly  scoured  at  the 
fulling  mill,  even  at  twice  ;  others  vouch  the 
contrary,  and  I  am  of  opinion  the  last  speak 
the  truth  ;  yet,  if  the  first  are  right,  it  might  be 
suspected  that  the  animal  oil  of  the  urine  be- 
coming resinous  by  drying  on  the  w^ool,  or  by 
uniting  with  the  oil  with  which  the  wool  is 
moistened  ;  for  its  other  preparations  more 
strongly  resist  the  fuller's  earth  and  s^xip,  than 
a  simple  oil  by  expression.  To  remedy  this, 
the  wool  ought  to  be  well  vv^ashed  in  a  running 
w^ater  after  it  is  dyed,  twisted,  aired,  the  green 
t^en  off,  and  cooled.    Be  it  as  it  may,  the 


160  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

woad  vat  will  always  be  preferred  in  the  great 
dye  houses  to  those  kinds  of  indigo  vats  made 
with  urine  or  otherwise ;  and  for  this  reason, 
that  with  a  good  woad  vat,^  and  an  ingenious 
woad  man,  much  mnrt  work  is  despatched  than 
with  all  the  other  blue  vats.^ 

I  have  described  the  indigo  vats  in  this  trea- 
tise, not  with  a  design  to  introduce  them  in  the 
large  manufactories,  but  to  procure  easy  means 
to  the  dyers  in  small,  and  small  manufactories, 
to  whom  I  wish  this  work  may  be  of  as  much 
advantage  as  to  the  others. 

Receifit    \25t/i,     JFor  blue  vat^  with  garden-woad^  or 
fiastel'woad. 

The  garden-woad  is  a  plant  cultivated  in 
many  parts  of  Holland  and  France,  and  might 
be  in  America,  to  the  great  advantage  of  the 
husbandman  ;  it  is  made  up  in  bales  generally 
weighing  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  to 
two  hundred  ;  it  resembles  little  clods  of  dried 
earth,  interwoven  with  the  fibres  of  plants  ;  it  is 
gathered  at  a  proper  season,  and  laid  up  to  rot, 
and  then  made  into  small  balls  to  dry.  ^  Several 
circumstances  are  to  be  observed  in  this  prepa- 
ration ;  on  this  you  may  see  the  regulations  of 
Mons.  Colbert  on  dyes  ;  the  best  prepared 
comes  from  the  diocese  of  Alby  in  France. 

The  Vat  set  to  work. 

A  copper  as  near  as  possible  to  the  vat  is  fill- 
ed with  water  that  has  stood  for  some  time,  or, 
if  such  water  is  not  at  hand,  a  handful  of  dyer's 
w^oad  or  hay  is  added  to  the  water,  with  eight 
pounds  of  crust  of  fat  madder.  If  the  old  liquor 
from  a  vat  that  has  been  used  in  dying  from 
madder  can  be  procured,  it  will  save  the  madder 
and  produce  a  better  effect. 


dysr's  companion.  161 

The  copper  being  filled,  and  the  fire  lighted 
about  three  in  the  morning,  it  must  boil  an  hour 
and  a  quarter,  (some  dyers  boil  it  from  two 
hours  and  a  half  to  three)  ;  it  is  then  conveyed 
by  a  spout  into  the  woad  vat,  in  which  has  been 
previously^  put  a  peck  of  wheat^  bran.  Whilst 
the  boiling  liquor  is  emptying  into  the  vat,  the 
balls  of  woad  nuist  be  put  one  after  another  hito 
the  vat,  that  they  may  be  the  easier  broken, 
raked  and  stirred  ;  this  is  to  be  continued  till  all 
the  hot  liquor  from  the  copper  is  run  into  the 
vat,  which,  when  little  more  than  half  full,  must 
be  covered  with  cloths  somewhat  lai^^er  than  its 
circumference,  so  that  it  may  be  covered  as 
close  as  possible,  and  left  in  this  state  four 
hours.  Then  it  must  be  aired,  that  is,  uncover- 
ed to  be  raked,  and  fresh  air  let  in  it ;  and  to 
each  bale  of  woad,  a  good  measure  of  ware  flung 
in  ;  this  is  a  concealed  name  for  lime  that  has 
been  slacked.  This  measure  is  a  khid  of  wood- 
en shovel,  which  serves  to  measure  the  lime 
grossly  ;  it  is  five  inches  broad  and  three  inches 
and  a  half  long,  containing  near  a  good  handful; 
the  lime  being  scattered  in,  and  the  vat  ^vell  rak- 
ed, it  must  be  again  covered,  leaving  a  little 
space  of  about  four  fingers,  open,  to  let  in  air. 
Four  hours,  after,  she  must  be  raked,  without 
serving  her  with  lime  ;  the  cover  is  then  put  on^ 
leaving,  as  before,  an  opening  for  the  air  ;  in 
this  manner  she  must  be  let  to  stand  for  two  or 
three  hours.  Then  she  may  be  raked  well  again, 
if  she  is  not  yet  come  to  w^ork  ;  that  is,  if  she 
does  not  cast  blue  at  her  surf  ice,  and  that  she 
works  or  ferments  still,  which  may  be  known  by 
raking  and  plunging  with  the  fiat  of  the  rake  in 
the  vat;  being  well  raked,  she  is  to  remain  still 
for  one  hour  and  a  half  more,  carefully  observing 
whether  she  casts  blue-  She  is  then  to  be  serv- 
ed with  water.,  ^nd  the  quantity  ofindijojudg- 


162  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

ed  necessary  is  to  be  put  in  ;  it  is  commonly 
used  in  a  liquid  state,  the  full  of  a  dye-house 
ketde  for  each  bale  of  woad  ;  the  vat  being  fill- 
ed  within  six  finger-breadths  of  her  brim,  is  to 
be  raked  and  covered  as  before  ;  an  hour  after 
filling  her  with  water,  she  must  be  served  with 
lime,  viz.  two  measures  of  lime  for  each  bale  of 
woad,  giving  more  or  less  according  to  the 
quality  of  the  woad,  and  what  may  be  judged  it 
will  spend  or  take  of  lime. 

I  hope  the  reader  will  excuse  my  plainness  ; 
this  treatise  being  wrote  for  the  dyer,  I  must 
speak  the  language  he  is  used  to  ;  the  philoso- 
pher will  easily  substitute  proper  terms,  which 
perhaps  the  workman  would  not  understand. 
There  are  kinds  of  woad  readier  prepared  than 
others,  so  that  general  and  precise  rules  cannot 
be  given  on  this  head.  It  must  also  be  remark- 
ed, that  the  lime  is  not  to  be  put  into  the  vat  till 
she  has  been  well  raked. 

The  vat  being  again  covered,  three  hours  af- 
ter a  pattern  must  be  put  in,  and  kept  entirely 
covered  for  an  hour  ;  it  is  then  taken  out  to 
judge  if  she  be  fit  to  work.  If  she  is,  the  pattern 
must  come  out  green,  and  on  being  exposed  a 
minute  to  the  air,  acquire  a  blue  colour.  If  the 
vat  gives  a  good  green  to  the  pattern,  she  must 
be  raked,  served  with  one  or  two  measures  of 
lime,  and  covered. 

Three  hours  after,  she  must  be  raked,  and 
served  with  what  lime  may  be  judged  neces- 
sary ;  she  is  then  to  be  covered,  and  one  hour 
^nd  a  half  after,  the  vat  being  pitched  or  settled, 
^  pattern  is  put  in,  which  must  remain  an  hour  to 
£ee  the  eftects  of  the  woad.  If  the  pattern  is  of  a 
fine  green,  and  that  it  turns  to  a  deep  blue  in  the 
air,  another  must  be  dipt  in  to  be  certain  of  the 
effect  of  the  vat.  If  this  pattern  is  deep  enough 
in  colour,  let  the  vat  be  filled  up  with  hot  wa- 


dyer's  gompanion.  163 

ter,  or  if  at  hand,  Avith  old  liquor  of  madder,  and 
rake  her  well.  Should  the  vat  still  want  lime, 
serve  her  vvith  such  a  quantity  as  you  may 
judge  sufficient  by  the  smell  and  handling. 
This  done,  she  must  be  again  covered,  and  one 
hour  after  put  in  your  stuffs,  and  make  your 
overture.  This  is  the  term  used  for  the  first 
working  of  wool  or  stuffs  in  a  new  vat. 

Receifit  126M.     To  set  afield  Woad  Vat. 

I  HAVE  but  little  to  say  on  this  woad  vat, 
different  from  that  which  has  been  related  of  the 
pastel  or  garden  woad.  The  woad  is  a  plant  culti- 
vated in  Normandy,  and  prepared  after  the  same 
manner  the  garden  woad  is  in  Languedoc.^  The 
method  of  cultivating  it  may  be  seen  in  the 
French  *'  General  Instructions  on  Dyes,"  of 
the  28th  of  March,  1671,  from  the  article  259 
to  288,  where  it  treats  of  the  culture  and  prepa- 
ration of  the  pastel  and  woad.  The  woad  vat 
is  set  at  work  after  the  same  manner  as  that  of 
pastel;  all  the  difference  is  that  it  has  less  strength 
and  yields  less  dye.  There  follows  a  descrip- 
tion  of  the  woad  vat,  which  I  carriedon  in  small, 
and  in  a  bath  heat,  similar  to  that  of  the  pastel 
in  the  foregoing  chapter. 

I  placed  in  a  copper  a  small  vessel  containing 
fifty  quarts,  and  filled  two-thirds  with  a  liquor 
made  of  river  water,  one  ounce  of  madder,  and 
a  little  weld,  putting  in  at  the  same  time  a  good 
handful  of  wheat  bran  and  five  pounds  of  woad. 
The  vat  was  well  raked  and  covered ;  it  was 
then  five  in  the  evening ;  it  was  again  raked  at 
seven,  nine,  twelve?  two,  and  four  o'clock  ;  the 
woad  was  then  working,  that  is,  the  vat  was 
slowly  coming  to  work,  as  I  have  already  related 
of  that  of  the  pastel. 

Pretty  large  air  bubbles  formed  themselves, 


i64  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

but  in  a  small  quantity,  and  had  scai'ccly  any  eo- 
lour.  8he  wnb  tiien  served  \vith  two  ounces  of 
lime  and  raked.  At  five  o'clock  a  p-ittern  was 
put  in  ;  which  was  taken  out  at  six,  raking  her  ;. 
this  pattern  began  to  have  some  colour  ;  ano- 
Iher  was  put  in  at  seven,  at  eight  she  was  raked, 
and  the  pattern  came  out  pretty  bright ;  an 
ounce  of  indigo  was  then  put  in  ;  at  nine  another 
pattern,  at  ten  she  w^as  raked,  and  one  ounce  of 
lime  was  added,  because  she  began  to  have  a 
sweetish  smell  ;  at  eleven  a  pattern,  at  twelve 
she  was  raked  ;  it  was  thus  continued  till  fiVe» 
then  three  ounces  of  indigo  were  put  in,  at  six 
a  pattern,  at  seven  slie  vvas  raked.  It  would  then 
have  been  proper  to  have  served  her  with  water, 
as  she  was  at  that  time  perfectly  come  to  work, 
the  pattern  that  was  take*:  nut  being  very  green^ 
and  turning  of  a  bright  blue.  But  besides 
that  I  was  fatigued,  hLiving  sat  up  the  whole 
night,  I  chose  rather  to  put  her  back  to  the  next 
day,  to  see  her  eflPcct  by  day -light ;  and  for  that 
purpose,  I  put  one  ounce  of  lime,  which  kept  her 
up  till  nine  in  the  morning  :  from  time  to  time 
patterns  were  put  in,  the  last  that  vvas  taken  out 
was  very  beautiful ;  she  Wcfs  served  with  a  li- 
quor composed  of  water,  and  a  small  handful  of 
bran.  She  was  raked  and  patterns  put  in  from 
hour  to  hour  ;  at  five  she  was  come  to  work  ; 
she  was  afterwards  served  wdth  lime,  and  raked 
to  preserve  her  till  she  was  to  l>e  re-heated. 

Some  time  after  I  set  another  with  the  woad 
alone  without  indigo,  that  I  migl^t  be  able  to 
]udge  of  the  lasting:  of  the  dye  of  the  woad, 
which  upon  trial,  I  found  to  be  as  good  as  the 
pastel  or  garden  woad.  Thus  all  the  superif^ri- 
ty  the  pastel  has  on  the  woad,  is,  that  the  latter 
yieWs  less  dve  than  the  former.  ^ 

The  little  varieties  that  may  be  observed  m 
setting  these  difierent  vats  at  work,  prove,  that 
there  are  many  circumstances  in  these  processes 


dyer's  companion.  165 

that  are  not  absolutely  necessary.  It  appears 
to  me,  that  the  only  important  point,  and  that  to 
which  the  greatest  attention  is  to  be  given,  is,  in 
the  conducting  the  fermentation  with  care,  and 
not  to  serve  her  with  lime,  but  when  judged  ne- 
cessary by  the  indications  I  have  laid  down.  As 
to  the  indigo  being  put  in  at  twice,  or  altogether, 
a  little  sooner  orlater,  it  appears  very  indifferent. 
The  same  may  be  said  of  the  weld,  which  I 
made  use  of  twice,  and  suppressed  the  two  other 
times,  and  of  pearlash,  which  I  added  in  a  small 
quantity  in  the  small  pastel  vat,  and  suppressed 
in  the  woad  vat.  In  short,  I  believe,  and  it  ap- 
pears  to  me  to  a  demonstration,  that  the  greatest 
regard  is  to  be  had  to  the  proper  distribution  of 
the  lime,  throughout  the  whole  course  of  the 
working  of  the  vats,  either  to  set  them  at  work, 
or  to  re-heat  them.  I  must  also  add,  that  when  a 
woad  vat  is  set  to  work,  she  cannot  be  too  often 
inspected  into  to  know  her  state  ;  for  if  there 
are  some  that  are  backward  (which  is  attributed 
to  the  weakness  of  the  woad)  there  are  also 
others  that  very  quickly  come  to  work.  I  have 
seen  a  middling  one  of  seventy  pounds  of  woad, 
poisoned  ;  because  the  woad  man  neglected  to 
inspect  her  as  often  as  she  required,  and  she  had 
been  two  hours  fit  to  work  before  he  discover- 
ed it ;  the  grounds  were  entirely  come  up  to  the 
surface  of  the  liquor,  and  the  whole  had  a  very 
sour  smell ;  it  was  not  possible  to  bring  her 
back,  and  they  were  obliged  to  fling  her  away, 
as  she  would  in  a  short  time  have  contracted  a 
foetid  smell.  The  retarding  of  the  action  of  the 
vat  may  also  proceed  from  the  temperature  of. 
the  air ;  for  the  vat  cools  a  great  deal  sooner  in 
winter  than  in  summer  :  therefore  it  becomes 
necessary  to  watch  it  attentively,  though  com- 
monly  they  are  fourteen  or  fifteen  hours  befora 
they  come  to  work. 

P2 


166  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

To  the  dyer. — Blue  and  brown  requ  ire  no  pre- 
paration,itib  sufficient  that  the  wool  be  well  scour- 
ed, which  will  be  noticed  in  its  pnoper  place  ; 
the  wool  is  to  be  net  as  already  descriljed  for 
blue,  it  suffices  to  dip  it  in  the  vat,  stirring  it 
well,  and  letting  it  remain  in  the  vat  more  or 
less  time,  according  to  the  state  of  the  dye  and 
the  ground  of  the  colour  wanted;  many  colours 
req.iire  a  blue  shade  to  be  given  to  the  wool. 
It  is  an  easy  matter  to  dye  wool  blue,  when  the 
vat  is  once  prepared,  but  it  is  not  so  easy  first 
to  prepare  the  vat,  which  is  the  most  difficult 
part  of  the  dyer's  art;  fortius  reason  I  have  given 
the  most  ex  jct  and  extensive  rules  in  my  pow- 
er, in  this  and  the  preceding  work. 

I  have  endeavoured  to  make  my  explanations 
general  on  the  properties  and  effi^cts  of  dye 
stuffs,  and  laid  down  the  different  processes  of 
settiPig  and  managing  the  blue  vat,  both  of  woad 
and  indigo,  for  woollen.  The  receipts  for  cot- 
ton and  linen  dye,  will  be  noticed  under  their 
proper  head,  kc.  It  is  the  earnest  wish  of  the 
author,  if  any  attempt  to  set  a  blue  vat,  from  this 
book,  th^t  they  attend  strictly  to  the  rules  and 
directions  here  laid  down,  and  not  let  it  be  a 
momentary  study  but  search  to  the  bottom  and 
find  out  the  the  principle  actors  in  the  dye,  and 
rule  the  dye,  and  not  let  it  rule  you  ;  upon  this 
principle  you  may  do  yourself  and  country  jus- 
tice. I  shall  leave  the  subject  of  the  blue  on 
woollen  goods,  after  giving  the  process  of 
manufacturing  woad  and  indigo. 

The  manufacturing  of  Pastel  or  Garden  IVoad,  c^ 
practiaed  in  France. 

Peasants  of  Abbigevois  distinguish  two  kinds 
0f  woad  seed  :  the  one  violet  colour,  the  other 
yellow*  they  prefer  the  former,  because  the 


a>YER's    COMPANION.  167 

vvoad  that  shoots  from  it  bears  leaves  that  are 
smooth  and  polished,  whereas  tliose  that  spring 
from  the  yellow  are  hairj^ ;  this  fills  them  w^ith 
earth  and  dust,  which  makes  the  woad  prepar- 
ed from  them  of  a  worse  quality.  This  woad 
is  called  pastelbourg,  or  bourdazgne. 

The  woad  at  first  shoots  five  or  six  leaves 
out  of  the  ground,  which  stand  upright  whilst 
green;  they  are  a  foot  long,  and  six  inches 
broad  ;  they  begin  to  ripen  in  June  ;  they  are 
known  to  be  ripe  by  their  falling  down  and 
growing  yellow ;  they  are  then  gathered,  and 
the  ground  cleared  from  weeds,  which  is  care- 
fully repeated  each  crop. 

If  there  has  been  rain,  a  second  crop  is  ob- 
tained in  July ;  rain  or  dry  weather  advances 
or  retards  it  eight  days.  The  third  crop  is  at 
the  latter  end  of  August ;  a  fourth  the  latter 
end  of  September  ;  and  the  fifth  and  last  about 
the  tenth  of  November.  This  last  crop  is  the 
most  considerable,  the  interval  being  longer. 
The  plant  at  this, crop  is  cut  at  the  root  from 
whence  the  leaves  spring.  This  woad  is  not 
good,  and  the  last  crop  is  forbid  by  the  regu- 
lations. The  woad  is  not  to  be  gathered  in  fog- 
gy or  rainy  weather,  but  in  serene  w^eather, 
when  the  sun  has  been  out  some  time. 

At  each  crop  the  leaves  are  brought  to  the 
mill  to  be  ground,  and  reduced  to  a  fine  paste ; 
this  is  to  be  done  speedily,  for  the  leaves  when 
left  in  a  heat  ferment,  and  soon  rot  with  an  in- 
tolerable stench.  These  mills  are  like  the  oil 
or  bark-mills,  that^  is,  a  mill  stone  turns  round 
a  perpendicular  pivot  in  a  circular  grove  or 
trough,  pretty  deep,  in  which  the  woad  is 
ground. 

The  leaves  thus  mashed  and  reduced  to  a 
pastCj  are  kept  up.  in  the  galleries  of  the  mill,  or 
m  the  open  air.    After  pressing  the  paste  well 


f68  APPENDIX    TO    THE 

with  the  hands  and  feet,  it  is  beat  down  anfl 
made  smooth  with  a  shovel.  This  is  called  the 
woad  piled. 

An  outward  crust  forms,  which  becomes 
blackish  ;  when  it  cracks,  great  care  must  be 
taken  to  close  it  again.  Little  worms  will  gen- 
erate in  these  crevices  and  spoil  it.  The  pile  is 
opened  in  a  fortnight,  well  worked  between 
the  hands,  and  the  crust  well  mixed  with  the 
inside  ;  sometimes  this  crust  requires  to  be  beat 
with  a  mallet  to  knead  it  wdth  the  rest. 

This  paste  is  then  made  into  small  loaves  or 
round  balls,  which  according  to  the  regulations, 
must  weigh  a  pound  and  a  quarter.  These 
balls  are  well  pressed  in  the  making,  and  are 
then  given  to  another,  who  kneads  them  again 
in  a  wooden  dish,  lengthens  them  at  both  ends^ 
making  them  oval  and  smooth.  Lastly,  they  are 
given  to  a  third,  who  finishes  them  in  a  lesser 
bowl  dish,  by  pressing  and  perfectly  uniting 
them. 

The  pastel  or  woad  thus  prepared  is  called 
Pastel  en  Cocaigne  ;.  whence  arises  the  proverb^ 
Pais  de  Cocaigne  ;  which  signfies  a  rich  coun- 
try, because  this  country^  where  the  woad 
grows,  enriched  itself  formerly  by  the  commerce 
of  this  drug. 

These  balls  f  are  spread  on  hurdles,  and  ex- 
posed to  the  sun  in  fine  weather  ;  in  JDad  wea- 
ther they  are  put  at  the  top  of  the  mill.  The 
woad  that  has  been  exposed  some  hours  to  the 
sun,  becomes  black  on  the  outside,  whereas 
that  which  has  been  kept  within  doors  is  gen- 

*  IJ  Abigeois  \St  Lauragoia 

f  There  is  a  place  in  India,  the  name  I  do  not  recollect, 
where  the  anil  is  prepared  after  the  manner  of  the  woadi 
and  the  Indigo  comes  from  it  in  lumps,  containing  all  the 
useless  parts  of  this  plant.  It  is  very  difficult  to  prepare  ^ 
Wue  vat  Y^ith  it. 


dyer's  companion.  169 

eraily  yellowish,  particularly  if  the  weather  has 
been  rainy.  The  merchants  prefer  the  former  ; 
this  makes  little  diftcreiice  as  to  its  use  ;  it  is  in 
general  alv^/ays  yellowish,  as  the  peasants  most- 
ly work  it  in  rainy  weather  when  they  cannot 
attend  their  rural  employments. 

In  summer,  these  balls  are  commonly  dry  in 
fifteen  or  twenty  days,  whereas  in  autumn  those 
of  the  last  crop  are  long  in  drying. 

The  good  balls  when  broke  are  of  a  violet  co- 
lour within,  and  have  an  agreeable  smell  ; 
whereas  those  that  are  of  an  earthy  colour  and 
a  bad  smell  are  not  good  ;  this  proceeds  from 
the  gathering  of  the  woad  during  the  rain,  when 
the  leaves  were  filled  with  earth.  Their  good- 
ness is  also  known  by  their  weight,  being  light 
when  they  have  taken  too  much  air,  or  roUoti 
by  not  having  been  sufficiently  pressed* 

Po*:vder  of  Woad, 

Of  these  balls  well  prepared,  the  powder  of 
vvoad  is  to  be  made ;  for  this  purpose  a  hun- 
dred  thousand  at  least  are  required.  A  distant 
barn  or  a  warehouse  must  be  procured,  larger 
or  smaller  according  to  the  quantity  intended  to 
be  made.  It  must  be  paved  with  bricks  and 
lined  with  the  same,  to  the  height  of  four  or  five 
feet ;  the  walls  would  be  better  to  be  of  stone 
to  that  height,  yet  often  the  walls  are  only  coat- 
ed with  earth  ;  this  coat  breaking  oft'and  mix* 
ing  with  the  v/oad  is  a  crest  prejudice  to  it.  In 
this  place  the  balls  are  deduced  to  a^  gross  pow- 
der with  large  wooden  mallets.  This  powder 
is  heaped  up  to  the  height  of  four  feet  reserv- 
ing a  space  to  go  round,  and  is  moistened  with 
water ;  that  which  is  slimy^  is  best  provided 

*  I  can  see  no  reason  why  slimy  water,  and  yet  to  be  clear, 
is  preferred*    It  appears  to  me  tliat  clear  river  water  would 


170  APrENDIX  TO    THE 

it  be  clear  ;  the  woad  thus  moistened,  ferment^j 
heats,  and  emits  a  very  thick  stinking  vapour. 

It  is  stirred  every  day  for  twelve  days,  fling- 
ing  it  by  shovels  full  from  one  side  to  the  other, 
and  moistening  it  every  day  during  that  time  ; 
after  which  no  -nore  water  is  fiung  on,  but  only 
stirred  every  second  day;  then  every  third,ifourth, 
and  fifth  ;  it  is  then  heaped  up  in  the  middle  of 
the  place,  and  looked  at  from  time  to  time  to  air 
it  in  case  it  should  heat.  This  is  the  pastel  or 
garden  woad  powder  fit  for  sale  to  the  dyers. 

Mr.  As'iruc,  to  prove  that  the  sale  of  woad 
formerly     enriched     the    higher     Languedoc, 
quotes  the  following  passage  from  a  book  enti-  ^ 
tied  Le,  Marchand. 

"  Formerly  they  transported  from  Toulouze 
to  Bordeaux,  by  the  river  Garonne,  each  year 
a  hundred  thousand  bales  of  woad  which  on 
the  spot  are  worth  at  least  fifteen  livers  a  bale, 
which  amounts  to  1,500,000  livers :  from 
whence  proceeded  the  abundance  of  money  and 
riches  of  that  country."  Castel  in  his  Me^ 
vioirs  de^  /'  Histoire  du  Languedoc^  in  1633,  p. 
49. 

The  comparing  of  these  two  methods  of  pre- 
paring the  woad  and  indigo  may  be  sufficient  to 
a  person  of  understanding,  who  might  be  ap- 
pointed to  try,  by  experiments,  the  possibility 
of  extracting  a  fecula  from  the  isatis  of  Langue- 
doc like  that  of  the  anil.  It  is  neither  the  dyer 
or  manufacturer  that  ought  be  applied  to  for 
that  purpose  ;  both  woiild  condemn  the  project 
as  a  novelty,  and  it  would  require  many  experi- 
ments, which  in  general  they  are  not  accustom- 
ed to. 

be  more  secure  ;  with  this  they  would  avoid  the  inconve- 
niences that  must  attend  a  standing  water,  always  filled 
with  filth;  or  of  a  muddy  water,  which  contains  useless 
e^tU  and  which  must  make  thg  dye  uneven. 


1 


BVER^S    COMPANIOK.  171 

I  could  wish  this  experiment  was  tried  in 
great,  so  that  at  least  fifty  pound  of  this  fecula 
might  be  got,  that  several  vats  might  be  set  in 
case  the  first  should  fail.  Whoever  does  try 
it,  should  be  very  careful  to  describe  all  the 
circumstances  of  the  process.  Perhaps  it  might 
not  succeed  at  the  first  crop  of  the  leaves  of  the 
woad,  because  the  heat  in  June  is  not  sufficient, 
but  probably  he  might  meet  with  success  in 
August. 

If  this  succeeds,  there  are  without  doubt  se, 
veral  other  plants  of  the  same  quality  as  the  isa- 
tis,  and  which  yields  a  like  fecula. 

It  is  also  probable  that  the  dark  green  of  seve- 
ral  plants  is  composed  of  yellow  and  blue  parts ; 
if  by  fermentation  the  yellow  could  be  destroy, 
edthe  blue  viould  remain.  This  is  not  a  chi- 
merical idea,  and  it  is  easy  to  prove  that  some 
use  might  be  derivedfrom  such  an  experiment. 

Of  making  Indigo  in  America. 

INDIGO  is  the  fecula  of  a  plant  named  niU 
or  anil ;  to  make  it,  three  vats  are  placed  the  one 
over  the  other,  in  form  of  a  cascade ;  in  the 
first,  called  the  steeper,  the  plant  is  put  in  with 
its  leaves,  bark  and  flowers*,  and  filled  with  wa- 
ter; some  time  after,  the  whole  ferments, 
the  water  grows  intensely  hot,  thickens,  and  be- 
comes of  a  blue  colour  bordering  on  the  violet ; 
the  plant,  according  to  the  opinion  of  some,  de- 
posing all  its  salts,  and  according  to  others,  all 
its  substance.  In  this  state,  the  cocks  of  the 
steeper  are  turned,  and  all  the  w^ater  let  out 
stained  with  the  colouring  parts  of  the  plant  into 
the  second,  called  the  beater  ;  because  this  wa- 

*  In  the  village  of  Sargussa,  near  the  town  of  Amadabat, 
the  Indians  only  use  the  leaves  of  the  anil  ;  they  fling  away 
the  rest  of  the  plant.    The  best  indigo  comes  from  thence. 


172  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

ter  is  beat  by  a  mill  or  a  machine  that  has  long 
sticks,  to  condense  the  substance  of  the  indigo, 
and  precipitate  it  to  the  bottom.  By  this  means 
the  water  becomes  clear  and  colourless,  like 
common  water  ;  then  the  cocks  are  turned,  that 
the  water  may  run  off  from  the  surface  of  the 
blue  sediment;  after  w^iich,  other  cocks  are 
turned  that  are  at  the  bottom  that  all  the  fecula 
may  fall  into  the  third  vat,  called  the  reposer, 
for  it  is  there  the  indigo  remains  to  dry ;  it  is  then 
taken  out  to  be  made  into  cakes,  £<.c.  See,  on 
this  subject,  Histoire  des  Antilles^  pare  le  Pere 
Labat. 

At  Pondicherry,  on  the  coast  of  Coromandel, 
there  are  two  kinds  of  indigo,  the  one  a  great 
deal  finer  than  the  other  ;  the  best  is  seldom 
used  but  to  lustre  their  silks,  the  inferior  in  dy- 
ing. They  augment  in  price  accordmg  to  their 
quality  ;  there  is  some  which  cost  from  15 
pagodas  the  bar  (which  weighs  48  pounds)  to 
200  pagodas.  The  most  beautiful  is  prepared 
nigh  Agra.  There  is  also  a  very  good  kind  that 
comes  from  Masikipatan  and  Ayanon,  where 
the  East-India  Company  have  a  factory.  At 
Chandernagor  it  is  called  nil  when  it  is  prepared 
and  cut  to  pieces.  The  indigo  of  Java  is  the 
best  of  all;  it  is  also  the  dearest,  and  consequent- 
ly few  dyers  use  it.  Good  indigo  ought  to  be  so 
light  as  to  float  on  the  water  ;  the  more  it  sinks, 
the  more  it  may  be  suspected  of  being  adulterat- 
ed by  a  mixture  of  earth,  cinders,  or  pounded 
slates  It  must  be  of  a  deep  blue,  bordering  on 
the  violet,  brillant,  lively,  and  shining  ;  it 
must  be  finer  within,  and  appear  of  a  shining  hue. 
Its  goodness  is  tried  by  dissolving  it  in  a  glass 
of  water  ;  if  it  be  unmixed  and  v/e!l  prepared,  it 
will  dissolve  entirely  ;  if  sophisticated,  the 
foreign  matter  will  sink  to  the  bottom.  Another 
method  of  trying  it  is  by  burning  ;  good  indigo 


dyer's  companion.  17S 

bwns  entirely  away,    and  when    adulterated, 
the  mixture  remains  after  the  indigo  is  consum^. 

Powdered  mdigo  is  much  more  subject  to 
adulteration  than  that  which  is  in  cakes  ;  for  it 
is  a  difficult  matter  that  sand,  powdered  slates, 
&c.  should  unite  so  as  not  to  form  together  in 
different  places  layers  of  different  matters  ;  and, 
in  this  case,  by  breaking  the  lump  indigo,  it  is 
easily  discovered. 

You  will  see  by  the  manufacturing  of  the  wo- 
ad  and  indigo,  that  a  portion  of  the  animal  crea- 
tion (reptiles,  and  insects),  live  and  die  in  it ; 
this  creates  an  acidous,  alkaline,  urinous  and 
volatile  substance,  and  is  the  reason  why  the 
vat  requires  to  be  covered  close,  to  prevent  the 
evaporation  of  tlie  colouring  substances. 


CHAP.  Ui 

Pecei/it  127 th.     On  Ydlow  Dying, 

YELLOW  is  one  of  the  five  material  or  pri- 
tnitivt:  colours,  and  the  subjects  are  ma  ly,  of 
which  I  shall  give  a  catalogue.  Yellow  is  gov- 
erned by  the  power  of  the  acid.  I  shall  not  in 
this,  point  out  any  particular  process  f  r  dying 
of  cloth,  as  that  has  been  described  in  my  form- 
er work  ;  see  the  receipts  for  yello'^v,  in  them  it 
was  for  cloth  only,  (the  wool  differs  from  cloth,) 
to  use  the  same  proportion  of  preparation  and 
dye  stuff,  for  twelve  pounds  of  wool  you  would 
for  sixteen  pounds  of  cloth.  This  is  to  be  a  gen- 
eral rule  in  all  dying  ;  the  process  for  th6 
management  of  wool  when  dying,  has  beea  de- 
Scribed  5  it  is  to  be  put  in  a  net,  and  stirred  with 

Q 


174  APPENDIX    TO   THE 

poles,  to  keep  the  wool  open,  that  it  may  re- 
ceive the  colour  even,  &c. 

Of  the  five  primary  colours  mentioned  in  the 
introduction,  two  of  them  req-iire  a  pre- 
p  ration  given  by  non-c<jlouring  ingredients, 
which  by  the  acidity  and  fineness  of  their  earth, 
dispose  the  pores  of  the  wool  to  receive  the  co- 
lours :  the  yellow,  the  red,  and  the  colours  de- 
rived from  them,  must  be  so  treated  ;  black 
must  have  a  preparation  peculiar  to  itself. 

Of  drugs  and  woods  for  yellow — They  are 
the  weld  or  wold,  savory,  green-wood,  the  yel- 
low- wood  and  the  finugrick  ;  these  are  those  tol- 
erated by  the  regulations  in  the  good  dye ;  weld 
gives  the  brightest  dye,  green-wood  and  savory 
are  the  best  for  the  wool  to  be  made  green,  as 
they  incline  and  border  on  the  green,  the  three 
others  give  good  yellows.  The  yellow^s  are 
classed  in  three,  the  straw,  the  pale,  and  the  le- 
mon yellows. 

To  the  five  drugs  already  mentioned  for  yel- 
low, may  be  added  a  number  of  the  good  dye  ; 
the  bark  and  root  of  barbary  shrub,  the  bark  of 
the  ash-tree,  the  dock  root,  the  leaves  of  the 
almond,  peach  and  pear-trees,  assmart,  and 
saffron  flowers,  may  all  be  considered  in  the 
good  dye»  Those  belonging  to  the  false  dye,  are 
turmerick,  which  gives  a  beautiful  yellow  but 
soon  changes ;  fustic  gives  a  good  colour,but  soon 
turns  brown,  and  is  excellent  in  brown  ;  roucou 
or  racourt,  the  grains  of  Avignon,  and  onion 
leaves  are  mjjch  the  same,  to  which  maj^be  add- 
ed  many  others ;  in  short  all  leaves,  barks,  and 
roots,  which  by  chewing  shew  some  little  astric- 
tion,  gives  yellows  of  the  good  dye,  more  or 
less  fine  according  to  the  time  they  are  boiled, 
and  in  proportion  to  the  tartar  and  allum  used 
in  the  liquor.  There  is  no  colour  that  produces 
so  groat  a  vai'iety  of  colouring  substances  as 


dyer's  companiok-.  175 

the  yellow  ;  there  is  such  a  difference  in  tlie 
qualities  of  these  subjects,  there  can  be  no  rcgu- 
lar  system  adopted,  but  must  be  applied  as  the 
colour  requires.  The  dyer  must  use  his  judg- 
ment for  the  rule  to  direct  his  proportion  for 
the  dying  subjects. 

For  dying  yellow. — The  common  preparing 
v/ater  with  tartar  andallum,  are  used  for  wool 
orstulTs  ;  to  each  pound  of  wool  take  one  ounce 
of  tartar  and  four  ounces  of  allum,  or  to  every 
hundred  w^eight  of  wool,  twenty-five  pounds  of 
allum  and  six  pounds  of  tartar ;  put  this  into 
your  copper  caldron,  fill  with  fair  water,  heat 
•boiling  hot,  then  immerse  the  wool,  stir  with 
poles  to  keep  the  wool  open,  that  it  may  all  re- 
ceive the  preparation  alike  ;  boil  six  hours,  take 
it  up,  let  cool,  place  it  in  a  sack,  covered  close, 
to  lay  twenty-four  hours  that  the  pores  of  the 
wool  may  inhale  the  salts,  and  be  the  better 
prepared  ;  then  rince  well  and  shift  the  liquor 
from  your  copper,  clean  well,  fill  with  clean  fair 
water;  if  the  waters  are  hard,  or  impregnated 
with  minerals,  to  every  hundi'ed  gallons  of  wa- 
ter, take  four  quarts  of  wheat  bran,  enclose  it 
in  a  clean  Irnen  bag,  let  it  boil  one  hour,  or  you 
may  add  three  or  four  pails  full  of  sour  water ; 
map  off  the  scum  that  rises  !)y  the  heat.  The 
hard  and  rough  waters  which  are  natural  to 
some  wells  and  places,  by  this  process  may  be 
rendered  soft  and  fit  for  any  colour ;  the  cleans, 
ing  of  the  waters  requires  strict  attention  in  all 
light  and  bright  colours,  as  the  yellow,  the  red, 
&c.  ;  when  the  water  is  thus  prepared,  add  of 
your  colouring  substances  be  they  v/eld,  yellow 
wood,  roots,  leaves  or  plants,  they  all  require 
boiling  ;  add,  boil  and  run,  or  stir,  till  you  ob- 
tain the  colour  required. 

Light  shades  of  yellow  are  obtained  in  the 
same  manner  as  all  others  spoken  of,  ouly  the 


176  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

preparing  liquor  for  these  light  yellows  must  be 
weaker.  I  recommend  twelve  pounds  and  a 
halfof  allum  for  each  hundred  pounds  of  wool, 
and  the  tartar  in  proportion  ;  but  these  light 
shades  do  not  resist  the  proofs  as  deeper  shades 
dc\  made  with  the  full  proportion  of  tartar. 

Some  dyers  endeavouring  to  help  this,  leave 
the  wool  and  stuffs  for  a  longer  time  in  the  dye, 
because  they  take  it  slower  in  proportion  to  the 
weakness  of  the  liquor:  but  if  they  put  at  the 
same  time  in  the  colouring  liquor,  wools  whose 
preparation  shall  have  been  different,  they  shall 
take  at  the  same  time  different  shades.  These 
liquors  more  or  less  strong  are  called  half-prepar- 
ing  liquors,  or  quarter-preparing  liquors,  and 
they  make  great  use  of  them  in  light  shades  of 
wool  dyed  in  the  fleece,  that  is,  before  being 
spun,  and  which  are  intended  for  the  manufac- 
turing of  cloths  and  other  mixed  stuffs  ;  be- 
cause the  more  allum  there  is  in  the  liquor  of  the 
wool,  the  more  it  is  harsh  and  difficult  to  spin, 
and  it  must  spin  thicker,  and  conisequently  the 
Stuff  is  coarser.  This  observation  is  not  of  great 
consequence  for  spun  wool  which  is  intended  for 
tapestry  or  for  stuffs.  I  only  mention  it  to 
shev/  that  the  quantity  of  ingredients  may  be 
sometimes  varied  without  danger. 

To  avoid  the  harsh  and  brittleness  of  the 
wool,  from  the  preparation  that  it  receives  from 
the  earthlj^  parts  of  these  salts;  step  out  of  the 
old  path,  diminish  the  preparation  as  the  shade 
i'cqiiires,  for  every  hundred  weight  of  wool,  use 
eight  pounds  of  allum  and  three  pounds  of  tar- 
tar ;  all  yellows  must  undergo  a  preparation, 
and  all  colours  connected  with  them.  These 
rules  for  the  preparation  must  be  general  for  the 
yellow  dye.  To  add  when  your  dye  is  set  and 
boiled  ready  to  receive  your  wool  or  goods, 
take  half  a  gill  of  the  composition  prepared  for 


177 

scarlet  as  will  be  described  hereafter,  to  every 
hundred  gallons  of  liquor;  this  may  be  added 
or  diminished  to  the  shade  required  ;  it  has  a 
tendency  to  soften  and  enliven  the  body  of  the 
wool  and  make  it  pliable  ;  it  is  bettc^r  than  to 
load  the  bodies  of  the  wool  with  these  earthly 
and  astringent  salts,  that  leaves  the  wool  harsh 
and  britde.  There  can  be  no  objection  to  any 
astringent  in  any  dye  if  properly  applied  ;  it  is 
an  affinity  on  the  wool  to  coat  and  make  a  body 
for  the  reception  of  the  colouring  substances  ; 
the  only  objections,  are  the  earth  these  prepara- 
tory salts  contain. 

I  have  given  you  the  form  of  the  preparation 
for  the  yellow,  and  its  effects,  I  shall  close  with 
some  observations  on  the  colouring  substances 
for  yellow,  as  to  the  use  and  their  connections 
with  other  colours,  Sec. 

OF  If  ELD. 

WELDis  a  plant  that  nriaybe  cultivated  among 
us,  and  is  used  grossly,  cither  green  or  dry;  but 
when  in  the  blossom  and  not  exposed  to  damage 
by  the  wet,  and  kept  dry,  it  yields  but  little  co- 
lour  and  is  numbered  the  first  in  this  dye  ;  to 
withstand  all  trials,  it  requires  six  pounds  when 
dry,  to  every  pound  of  wool  or  stuff,  and  boil 
well. 

The  yellow  wood  is  used  in  chips,  or  in  coarse 
shavings  ;  by  this  means  it  is  more  divided,  and 
yields  its  dye  the  better,  and  a  less  quantity  will 
do  ;  which  way  soever  it  is  used,  it  is  put  into  a 
bag,  that  it  may  not  mix  with  the  wool  or  stuffs. 
The  same  precaution  is  necessary  for  the  savory 
and  greenwood,  when  they  are  mixed  with  the 
weld  to  change  its  shade. 

^  Greenwood  commonly   comes    ground  ;    it 
gives  a  greenish  yellow  and  is  good  in  greens, 
Q2 


178  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

olives  and  drabs ;  however,  for  browns  sumac 
Vv^ill  produce  the  same  effect,  and  when  one  can- 
not  be  obtained  the  other  will  answer. 

The  other  ingredients  are  hitherto  known  which 
dye  yellow,  and  I  shall  only  observe  here  in  regard 
to  the  good  dye,  that  the  root  of  the  dock,  the 
bark  of  the  ash-tree,  particularly  that  which  is 
raised  after  the  first  sap,  the  leaves  of  almond, 
peach  and  pear-tree,  the  root  and  bark  of  tlie 
barbary  shrub,  saffron  flowers,  the  herb  peters- 
wort,  and  in  particular  theassmart,  which  gives 
a  beautiful  yellow  if  fermented  before  used  in 
d:>ing;  its  colour  will  be  permanent.  The 
woad  in  Europe,  is  prepared  by  a  chymical  pro- 
cess,  and  produces  a  large  revenue ;  undoubt- 
edly the  assmart,  which  in  the  northern  states  is 
troublesome  to  farmers,  might  be  a  profit  to 
them  and  our  country,  were  it  suitably  prepar- 
ed  for  a  dye  stufx';  its  extract  is  highly  charged 
with  acid  and  vegetable  salts. 

If  our  government  should  deem  it  worth  their 
attention,  to  employ  some  able  chymist  to  ex- 
plore the  qualities  of  our  fossils,  woods,  barks, 
shrubs,  plants,  roots,  weeds  and  minerals,  per- 
haps  the  advantages  our  rising  nation  might  de- 
rive, would  soon  indemnify  us  for  the  extr^ 
expense. 

In  short,  all  leaves,  barks  and  roots,  which  by 
che  .ving  shew  some  little  astriction,  give  yellows 
of  the  good  dye  more  or  less  fine,  according  to 
the  time  they  are  boiled,  and  in  proportion  to  the 
tartar  and  allum  used  in  the  liquor:  a  proper 
quantity  of  allum  brings  these  yellows  to^  the 
beautiful  yellow  of  the  weld.  If  the  tartar  is  in 
greater  quantity,  these  yellows  will  border  on  the 
orange  ;  and  lastly,  if  these  ingredients  are  too 
much  boiled,  let  them  be  n  ots,  barks,  or  leaves, 
the  yellow  obscures  itself,  and  takes  brown 
shades. 


DYER^S   COMPANION".  179 

Although  some  dyers  use  turmeric  in  the  good 
dye,  which  gives  an  orange  yellow,  this  practice 
is  to  be  condemned,  for  it  is  a  colour  that  soon 
passes  in  the  air,  unless  it  be  secitrcd  by  sea- 
salt,  which  some  dyers  do,  who  take  care  to 
keep  this  imposition  to  themselves.  Those  who 
make  use  of  it  in  common  scarlets,  to  spare 
cochineal,  and  to  give  to  their  stuff  a  red  border- 
ing on  the  orange,  are  blameable,  for  the  scarlets 
that  have  been  dyed  after  this  manner  lose  in  a 
short  time  that  bright  orange  ;  as  1  have  already 
said,  they  brown  considerably  in  the  air.  Yet 
these  falsifications  are  obliged  to  be  in  some 
measure  tolerated  ;  for  at  this  time  that  bright 
orange  being  in  fashion,  it  would  be  impossible 
to  give  it  to  scarletjwithout  putting  a  larger  dose  of 
composition,  whose  acids  would  greatly  hurt  the 
cloth  The  fustic  wood  is  now  preferred  in 
scarlet. 

OF  TURMERIC. 

THE  turmeric  is  a  root  that  is  brought  from 
the  East  Indies,  w  hich  dyes  a  yellow ;  with- 
out  it  neither  a  good  yellow,  green  or  straw  co» 
lour  can  be  imprest  on  silks.  Turmeric  is  a 
small  root ;  if  it  be  good,  when  broken  it  will 
be  a  dark  yellow,  have  a  strong  flavour  and  be 
very  bitter  to  the  taste. 

That  vyhich  comes  from  P-tna  is  most  valued. 
The  Indian  dyers  call  it  haltli ;  it  is  also  called 
concome  in  the  regulations  of  M.  Colbert.  It  is 
reduced  to  a  very  fine  pov\  der,  and  used  pretty 
near  the  same  way  as  the  grain  of  Avignon,  but  ia 
much  less  quantity,  on  account  of  its  yielding  a 
great  deal  of  dye.  It  is  somewhat  better  than 
the  other  yellow  ingredients  that  will  be  spoken 
of  in  the  sequel,  but,  as  it  is  dear,  it  is  a  suf- 
ficient reason  for  seldom  or  never  using  it  in  the 
lesser  dye. 


180  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

It  is  sometimes  used  in  the  great  dye  to  gild 
the  yellows  made  with  weld,  and  to  brighten  cind 
orange  the  scarlets;  but  this  practice  is  to  be 
condemned  ;  for  the  air  carries  off  all  the  colour 
of  the  turmeric  in  a  short  time,  so  that  the  gild- 
ed ydlows  return  to  their  first  state,  and  the  scar- 
lets brown  considerably  ;  when  this  happens  to 
these  sort  of  colours,  it  may  be  looked  on  as 
certain  that  they  have  been  falsified  with  this  in- 
gredient, which  is  not  lasting. 

OF  FUSTIC. 

FUSTIC  is  much  used  in  this  country.  The 
colour  it  naturally  produces,  is  an  orange  yel- 
low, and  turns  brown  when  long  exposed  to  the 
air.  it  is  employed  in  colouring  saxon  greens 
and  olives;  in  short,  it  may  be  used  in  all  colours 
where  the  ground  requires  a  yellow ;  it  is  a 
clean  w^ood,  an  astringent,  and  leaves  the  goods 
soft  and  pli  ^ble.  There  is  not  one  among  the 
ranksof  the  \ellow  materials  that  is  so  useful 
as  the  fustic  for  browns ;  as  it  changes  it  be- 
comes darker  and  inclining  to  red,  is  useful  in 
smokes,  snuffs  and  cinnaipon  colours ;  it  is  good 
in  black,  and  excellent  in  drabs.  It  is  a  close 
and  h  :rd  wood,  hard  to  split  and  full  of  splinters ; 
the  root  and  that  part  of  the  wood  that  is  most 
knotty  is  the  best,  when  split  it  should  appear  of  a 
bright  yellow  ;  if  it  is  rotten  or  otherwise  injured 
it  will  not  answer.  Some  condemn  this  wood 
becaur.e  it  is  not  good  for  the  yellow,  and  will 
not  tolerate  it  in  the  good  d\  e  ;  here  are  the  rea- 
sons given  by  Mr.  HcJigh,  dyer  of  Leeds  : 

"  If  a  stuff  dyed  with  fustic  is  dipped  in  the 
woad  vat,  a  disagreeable  olive  ensues,  which 
does  not  resist  the  air,  but  >^oon  loses  its  colour." 
And  that ''  fusric  was  made  use  of  in  Languedoc 
for  making  of  lobbter  colours  for  foreign  markets, 


dyer's  companion.  l&l 

as  it  greatly  saves  cochineal.  For  this  purpose 
they  mix  weld,  fustic,  and  cochineal,  with  a  lit- 
tle cream  of  tartar,  in  the  same  liquor,  and  the 
stuff  boiled  in  this  liquor  comes  out  of  a  lob- 
ster colour,  and  accordingly,  to  the  quantity  of 
these  diff  rent  ingredients,  it  becomes  more  or 
less  red,  tending  to  the  orange.  Although  the 
method  of  mixing  together  ingredients  of  the 
good  with  those  of  the  lesser  dye  ought  to  be  con- 
demned, yet  in  this  case,  and  for  this  colour  only, 
which  is  in  considerable  demand  in  the  Mediter- 
ranean, it  appears  that  the  fustic  may  be  tolerat- 
ed ;  for  having  attempted  to  make  the  same  co- 
lour, with  only  the  ingredients  of  the  good  dye, 
I  did  not  get  a  more  lasting  colour. 

"  The  change  which  the  air  produces  in  the 
lobster  tolour  made  with  fustic  is  very  sensible, 
but  it  is  not  so  disagreeable  as  the  changes  in- 
cident to  several  other  colours  ;  for  all  the  shade 
goes  off  and  weakens  at  once,  so  that  it  is  ra- 
ther diminution  than  a  change  of  colour  ;  where- 
as  the  lobster  colour  made  with  the  yellow  W'ood 
becomes  of  a  cherry  colour  " 

It  appears  Mr.  Haigh's  remarks  are  groundless 
and  without  foundation,  he  condemns  it  for  no 
other  reason  than  because  it  does  not  answer  allhis 
purposes,  yet  gives  itthepreferancein  the  scarlet 
to  the  turmeric,  and  cannot  well  make  the  flame 
coloured  scarlet  w  ithout  one  or  both  of  these 
substitutes,  as  those  of  the  good  dye  give  so  lit- 
tle colour,  that  it  will  consume  the  red  of  the 
cochineal,  &c. 

Yellow  o'lk  bark  produces  a  strong  colour, 
green  or  dry,  but  it  is  better  to  have  it  roped  and 
ground  as  for  tanning  ;  it  is  ulso  good  in  browns 
and  blacks.  Walnut  or  hickory  bark  may 
be  used  for  the  same  colours  ;  it  makes  a  bright- 
er yellow  than  the  oak,  both  are  durable.  In  the 
use  of  some  of  these  yellow  subjects^  may  be 


182  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

added  a  little  bine  vitriol  to  the  dye,  it  will  make- 
it  very  brillicint  and  fine  ;  oil  of  vitriol  may  also 
be  added,  but  it  will  not  answer  to  make  it 
general,  only  in  cases  of  necessity,  &c. 

OFROUCOU. 

THE  roiicou  or  racourt  is  a  kind  of  dry  paste 
brought  from  America  ;  this  ingredient  gives 
an  orange  colour  pretty  near  the  same  as  the  fus- 
tic,  and  the  dye  is  not  more  lasting.  However 
it  is  not  by  the  proof  all  um  that  the  quahty  of 
the  roucou  is  to  bejudged,  for  this  does  not  in 
the  least  alter  its  colour  ;  on  the  contrary,  it  be- 
comes finer  and  brighter,  but  the  air  carries  it 
off,  and  effaces  it  in  a  short  time  ;  soap  has  the 
same  effect,  and  it  is  by  this  it  must  be  tried  ac- 
cording to  the  instructions^  on  these  kind  of 
proofs.  The  place  of  this  ingredient  is  easily 
supplied  in  the  good  dye  by  weld  and  madder 
mixed  together,  but  roucou  is  made  use  of  in  the 
lesser  dye  after  the  following  manner. 

Pearlash  is  dissolved  in  a  copper  with  a  suf- 
ficient quantity  of  water  ;  it  is  well  boiled  for 
one  hour,  that  the  ashes  may  be  totally  dissolv- 
ed  ;  then  as  many  pounds  of  roucou  as  there 
are  of  ashes,  are  added  ;  the  liquor  is  well  naked 
and  suffered  to  boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  ; 
the  wool  or  stuffs  that  are  to  be  dyed  are  then 
dipped  without  any  preparation,  except  dipping 
them  in  luke-warm  water,  that  the  colour  may 
si^read  itself  equally. 

They  arc  left  in  this  liquor,  working  them 
continually  until  they  are  come  to  the  desired 
shade,  after  which  they  are  washed  and  dried. 

The  roucou  is  often  mixed  vvith  other^  ingre- 
dients  of  the  lesser  dye,  but  I  cannot  give  any 
instructions  on  these  mixtures,  as  they  depend 
on  the  shades  you  wish  to  make,  and  are  in 
themselves  attended  with  no  difficulty. 


I 


183 

I  have  boiled  the  stuff  in  allum  and  tnrtar  be. 
fore  I  dyed  it  with  roucou,  but  though  the  colcur 
was  more  lasting  it  was  not  sufficiently  so  to  be 
deeined  of  the  good  dye.  On  the  whole,  the 
roucou  is  u  very  bad  ingredieiit  fr  dying  of 
w^ool,  and  isnotniade  much  use  of,  for  it  is  dt  c>r, 
and  other  ii.gredients,  that  are  cheaper  and  hold 
better,  art-  ust  d  in  its  stead. 

Wool  dyed  with  roucou,  and  afterwards  dipt 
in  the  indigo  or  woad  vat,  take  a  reddish  olive, 
w  hich  in  a  very  short  time  becomes  almojrt  blue 
in  the  air,  the  colour  given  by  the  roucou  dis- 
appearing. 

Of  the  Grains  of  Avignon, 

THE  grains  of  Avignon  are  but  little  used 
in  dyiiig,  they  give  a  pretty  good  yellow,  but 
not  lasting,  no  more  than  the  green,  produced 
by  dipping  in  the  same  liquet,  a  stuft'that  has  a 
ground  of  blue.  To  work  it,  the  stuff  must  be 
boiled  in  allum  and  tartar  as  for  weld.  Then  a 
fresh  liquor  is  made  with  the.se  grains,  and  the 
stufl'is  dipt,  and  must  lie  in  it  longer  or  shorter, 
according  to  the  shade  that  is  wanted.  There 
is  no  difSculty  in  w  orking  of  it,  so  1  need  only 
observe  that  it  ought  never  to  be  used  but  when 
all  other  ingredients  for  dying  yellow  are  \\  ant- 
ing ;  this  must  seldom  happen,  as  they  are  nei- 
ther  scarce  nor  dear. 

The  yellows  are  easily  obtained,  more  so  than 
any  other  colour,  but  two  simple  processes  are 
required ;  first,  the  preparation,  then  the  dye 
and  the  colour  required. 

This  is  all  that  remains  for  me  to  say  on  the 
ingredients  for  yellow  for  the  great  or  the  less« 
er  dye  ;  the  dye  of  the  lesser  dye  is  to  be  used 
for  common  and  low-priced  stuffs,  ii  is  not 
that  I  think  it  impossible  to  extract  lasting  co- 


184  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

lours  from  them,  but  then  those  colours  will  not 
strictly  be  the  same  which  these  ingredients 
yield  naturally,  or  by  the  ordinary  methods,  as 
that  gum  and  astriction  which  is  wanting  in 
them  must  be  added,  and  then  they  are  no  more 
of  the  same  quality  ;  consequently  the  rays  of 
light  will  be  differently  reflected,  and  the  colour 
will  be  different- 


CHAP.  III. 

OF  RED. 

HED  is  one  of  the  material  or  primitive  co- 
lours, as  has  been  before  observed,  and  is  de- 
pendent  on  the  power  of  the  acid  always  ;  the 
alkali  is  sometimes  admitted  when  the  goods 
have  received  too  much  acid,  and  to  change  the 
red  to  a  crimson.  Crimson  is  considered  by 
some  as  one  of  the  reds,  but  I  consider  it  as 
compounded,  as  you  may  see  in  the  preceding 
work  ;  however  it  is  so  much  connected  with 
the  reds,  I  shall  class  it  with  them  ;  violets,  pur- 
ples and  all  browns  that  the  ground  is  red,  arc 
connected  with  the  red,  as  will  be  shown  in  the 
sequel.  Neutral  s\ibstances  are  frequently  in- 
troduced in  the  red  dye,  as  verdigrease,  blue  vi- 
triol, &c.  these  tend  to  sadden  the  goods,  as  the 
alkali,  when  they  have  received  too  much  acid, 
and  are  bordering  on  the  orange  or  yellow,  and 
the  red  wants  raising  in  the  great  dye :  there 
Jire  four  principal  reds,  which  are  the  basis  of 
the  rest,  these  are  : 

1.  Scarlet  of  gr-iin.  2.  The  scarlet,  now  in 
use,  or  flame  coloured  scarlet,  formerly  called 
Dutch    scarlet.    3.  The  crimson  red.    And, 

4.   The  ijiadder  red. 


DYER'S   COMPANIOK-.  i8S 

There  are  also  the  bastard  scarlet  and  the  bas- 
tard  crimson  ;  but  as  these  are  only  mixtures 
of  the  principal  reds,  they  ought  not  to  be  con- 
sidered as  particular  colours. 

The  red,  or  nacaret  of  bourre^^  was  formerly 
permitted  in  the  great  dye. 

Ail  these  different  reds  have  their  particular 
shades  from  the  deepest  to  the  lightest,  but  they 
form  separate  classes,  as  the  shades  of  the  one 
never  fall  into  those  of  the  other. 

The  reds  are  worked  in  a  different  manner 
from  the  blues,  the  wool  or  stuffs  not  being  im- 
mediately dipped  in  the  dye,  but  previously 
receiving  a  preparation  which  gives  them  no  co- 
lour, but  prepares  them  to  receive  that  of  the 
colouring  ingredient. 

This  is  called  the  water  of  preparation  ;  it  is 
commonly  made  with  acids,suchas  sour  waters, 
allum  and  tartar,  aquafortis,  aqua  regalis,  &c. 
These  preparing  ingredients  are  used  in  dif- 
ferent quantities,  according  to  the  colour  and 
shade  required.  ^  Galls  are  also  often  used,  and 
sometimes  alkaline  salts.  This  I  shall  explain 
in  the  course  of  this  treatise,  when  I  come  to 
the  method  of  working  each  of  these  colours. 

It  has  been  the  opinion  of  some  dyers,  that  the 
•waters  of  America  would  not  answer  for  a  scar- 
let, and  also  that  a  vessel  of  silver  or  pure  block 
tin  was  necessary  to  contain  the  scarlet  dye;  ex- 
perience has  taught  us  that  these  opinions  are 
groundless,  the  waters  of  this  country  are  as 
pure  and  soft  as  those  of  Europe  ;  a  brass  or 
copper  caldron,  if  well  cleansed  will  leave  the 
colour  as  bright  as  any  vessel  whatever  :  br:\ss 
is  preferred,  as  it  is  easier  kept  clean,  as  may  be 
seen  in  the  prer.eding  work  of  the  diffc^rent  ex- 
periments in  Europe.     As  scarlets  are  generally 

*This  colour  is  given  with  weld  and  goat's  hair  boiled  In 
tiotash,  and  is  a  bright  orange  red.- 

R 


186  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

dyed  in  the  cloth,  it  is  necessary  they  should  be 
fulled  and  finished  fit  for  the  press,  as  soap  will 
critnson  it,  and  the  hand,  &c.  would  tarnish  it  in 
dressing. 

Of  Flame-Coloured  Scarlet, 

FLAME-coloured  scarlet,  that  is,  briglit-co- 
loured  scarlet,  known  formerly  under  the  name 
of  Dutch  scarlet,  (the  discovery  of  which  Kun- 
kei  attributes  to  Kustcr,  a  German  chymist)  is 
the  finest  and  brightest  colour  of  the  dye.  It 
is  also  the  most  costly,  and  one  of  the  hardest 
to  biing  to  perfection.  It  is  not  easy  to  deter- 
mine the  point  of  perfection,  for  independent  of 
diiFerent  tastes  concerning  the  choice  of  co- 
lours, there  are  also  general  fancies^  which  make 
certain  colours  more  in  fashion  at  onetime  than 
another  ;  when  this  happens,  fashionable  co- 
lours become  perfect  ones.  Formerly  scarlets 
were  chosen  full,  deep,  and  of  a  degree  of 
brightness  which  the  sight  easily  bore.  At  this 
time  they  must  be  on  the  orange,  full  of  fire, 
and  of  a  brightness  which  dazzles  the  eye.  I 
shall  not  decide  which  of  these  two  fashions  de- 
serve  the  preference,  but  shall  give  the  method 
of  making  them  both,  and  all  the  shades  w^hich 
hold  a  medium  between  these  extremes. 

Cochineal,  which  yields  this  beautiful  colour, 
and  is  al30  called  mestick,  or  tescalle,  is  an  in- 
sect that  is  gathered  in  great  quantities  in  Mexi- 
co. The  natives  and  Spaniards,  who  have  but 
small  establishments  there,  cultivate  them,  that 
is,  carefully  gather  them  from  the  plant  on 
which  they  feed  before  the  rainy  season.  They 
kill  and  dry  those  designed  for  sale  and  pre- 
serve the  rest  to  multiply  when  the  bad  season 
is  over.  The  insect  feeds  and  breeds  upon  a 
kind  of  prickly  optmtia,  which  they  call  topal. 


dyer's  companion.  187 

It  may  be  preserved  in  a  dry  place  for  ages 
without  spoiling. 

The  cochineal  sylvestre,  or  campessiane,  is 
also  brought  from  Vera-Cruz.  The  Indians  of 
Old  and  New  Mexico  gather  this  kind  in  the 
woods  ;  it  feeds,  grows,  and  generates  there  on 
the  wild  uncultivated  opuntias  ;  it  is  there  ex- 
posed in  the  rainy  season  to  all  the  humidit^^  of 
the  air,  and  dies  naturally.  This  cochineal  is 
always  smaller  than  the  fine  or  cultivated  ;  the 
colour  is  more  holding  and  better,  but  has  not 
the  same  brightness,  neither  is  it  profitable  to 
use  it,  since  it  requires  four  parts,  and  some- 
times more,  to  do  what  may  be  done  with  one 
of  fine. 

Sometimes  they  have  damaged  cochineal  at 
Cadiz  ;  this  is  fine  cochineal  that  has  been  wet 
with  salt  water,  occasioned  by  some  ship- 
wreck or  leakage-  These  accidents  consider- 
ably diminish  the  price,  the  sea-salt  saddening 
the  dye.  This  kind  serves  only  to  make  pur- 
ples, and  even  those  are  not  the  best.  How- 
ever a  person  in  1735,  found  the  secret  to  turn 
this  to  almost  as  much  advantage  for  scarlet  as 
the  finest  cochineal.  The  discovery  of  this  se- 
cret is  easy,  but  let  him  that  possesses  it  enjoy 
it,  I  shall  not  deprive  him  of  the  advantage  he 
might  have  in  it. 

Almost  every  dyer  has  a  particular  receipt 
for  dying  scarlet,  and  each  is  fully  persuaded 
that  his  own  is  preferable  to  all  others  ;  yet  the 
success  depends  on  the  choice  of  the  cochineal, 
of  the  water  used  in  the  dye,  and  on  the  manner 
of  preparing  the  solution  of  tin,  which  the  dyers 
call  composition  of  scarlet. 

As  it  is  this  composition  which  gives  the 
bright  flame  colour  to  the  cochineal  dye,  and 
which  without  this  acid  liquor  would  naturally 
be  of  a  crimson  colour,  I  shall  describe  the  pre- 


18S  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

paration  that  succeeded  best  with  me,  and  then 
point  out  the  different  processes  as  practised  in 
Europe  and  their  success,  and  opinions  in  the 
manner  of  using  the  preparations  and  applying 
the  colouring  substances.  We  r.re  furnished 
in  the  good  or  great  dye,  with  four  colouring 
substances  for  red,  the  kermes,  the  cochineal, 
gum  lacque  and  madder,  there  is  a  number 
in  the  false  dye,  as  red-wood  or  brazil,  nicaragua, 
&c. 

Receipt   ]2St/2,     For  ScarLt^  as  firactised  in  America, 

WHEN  your  cloth  or  goods  are  prepared  for 
dying,  to  ever3^  fourteen  pounds  weight  take 
twelve  ounces  of  cochineal,  ten  ounces  of  cream 
of  tartar,  two  pounds  of  double  aquafortis,  two 
ounces  of  salts  of  sal  ammoniac,  two  ounces  of 
sal  nitre  or  salt  petre,  six  pounds  of  wheat  bran, 
two  ounces  of  turmeric  and  six  ounces  of  gran- 
ulated tin. 

Comfiosition  for  Scarlet, 

TAKE  twelve  pounds  of  double  aquafortis, 
to  which  add  gradually  t\^elve  pounds  of  clear 
clean  vv  ater,  put  in  a  large  glass  vessel ;  then  r-dd 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  salts  of  sal  ammo- 
niac made  fine,  put  it  in  gradually,  then  t;^ke 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sal  nitre  or  saltpetre, 
pulverized  and  pdded  slowly,  shake  them  all  to- 
gether til  the  salts  iTe  all  dissolved,  then  add  two 
pounds  and  a  quarter  of  granulated  tin,  droppir>g 
it  in  by  little  and  little,  as  it  dissolves  it  will  cause 
a  great  fermentation,  and  you  must  not  be  in  too 
great  ha:^te  in  adding  the  tin ;  when  the  tin  is  'A\  in 
and  the  ebullition  ceases,  then  stop  it  tight  with  a 
glciss  or  Wctx  stopper,  put  it  where  it  nn^iy  not  he 
disturbed  or  shaken  up,  for  the  sediment  will 


dyer's  companion.  189 

injure  the  dye,  let  stand  for  use  ;  it  must  be 
prepared  twenty- four  hours  before  using  :  if  you 
keep  it  stopped  close  you  may  keep  this  com- 
position good  several  months ;  this  is  the  com- 
position for  scarlet. 

To  firefiare  or  granulate  the  Tin, 

TAKE  of  the  purest  block  tin  or  grain  tin, 
that  is  a  metal  by  itself;  it  comes  in  various 
sizes,  from  half  an  ounce  to  one  pound  in 
weight,  it  has  a  bright  appearance.  Take  the  tin 
and  melt  it  over  a  hot  fire,  then  hold  it  two  feet 
above  a  pail  of  clean  cold  water,  and  pour  it 
gradually  into  the  water,  then  take  it  out  and 
dry  it  for  use. 

The  cloths  and  composition  all  prepared, 
then  clean  the  copper  clean  as  described  in  the 
preceding  work,  have  all  the  dying  utensils  new^ 
and  clean,  or  that  have  not  been  u-»ed  in  an;^ 
other  dye ;  then  fill  vvith  fair  water  and  clean, 
and  your  goods  clean  and  wet  with  clean  water ; 
to  fourteen  pound  weight  of  cloth,  take  six 
pounds  of  wheat  bran,  put  it  in  a  clean  linen  bag 
tied  close,  boil  it  two  hours  ;  then  take  up  the 
bag,  let  it  drain,  then  take  twelve  ounces  coch- 
ineal and  ten  ounces  of  cream  of  tartar,  have  it 
well  pulverized  together  in  a  glass  or  marble 
mortar  and  glass  pestel,  sifted  through  gauze; 
when  thus  prepared,  add  oncrthird  of  this  com- 
pound of  cochineal,  &c.  to  the  boiling  liquor, 
run  your  goods  two  hours  boiling,  turning  live- 
ly, then  take  up  and  air ;  this  is  called  the  scar, 
let  boiling  ;  then  shift  the  liquor  from  your  cop. 
per,  fill  with  clean  w^ater,  and  heat  boiling  hot ; 
then  add  half  of  the  remaining  compound  of 
cochineal,  and  two  pounds  and  four  ounces 
of  the  composition,  carefully  turned  off  that 
you  get  none  of  the  sediment*  for  that  will  in- 
R2 


190  APPENDIX  TO  TH£ 

jure  the  dye,  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  one  hour 
with  the  dye  boiling,  tend  lively,  air,  and  add 
the  rennainder  of  the  cochineal,  &c.  and  as  much 
more  of  the  composition  as  before,  and  two 
ounces  of  turmeric  made  fine,  boil  well  and  run 
as  before.  If  your  dye  stuff  and  composition 
are  good,  your  cloth  and  utensils  clean,  you  will 
have  as  good  a  scarlet  as  was  ever  made  in  Eu- 
rope. I  can  vouch  for  this  form  being  used  with 
success  in  the  United  States,  and  was  equal  to 
any  scarlet  1  ever  saw. 

Hcceifit  \29 th.     Of  Scarlet  of  Grain. 

THIS  colour  is  called  scarlet  of  grain,  because 
it  is  made  with  the  kermes,  which  was  long 
thought  to  be  the  grain  of  the  tree  on  which  it  is 
found.  It  was  formerly  called  French  scarlet, 
imagining  it  to  be  first  found  out  in  France,  and 
is  now  known  by  the  name  of  Venetian  scarlet, 
being  much  in  use  there,  and  more  made  than 
in  any  other  place.  The  fashion  passed  from 
thence  into  France  and  other  countries.  It  has 
indeed  less  lustre,  and  is  browner  than  the  scar- 
let  now  in  fashion ;  but  it  has  the  advantage  of 
keeping  its  brightness  longer,  and  does  not  spot 
by  mud  or  acid  liquors. 

The  kermes  is  a  gall  insect,  which  is  bred, 
lives,  and  multiplies  \\\)  m  the  ilex  acculeato 
cocci  glandiscra,  C.  B.  P.  Some  comes  from 
Narbonne,  \m\x  greater  quantities  from  Alicant 
and  Vaientia,  and  the  peasants  of  Languedoc 
yearly  bring  it  to  Montpelier  and  Norbonne. 
^rhe  merchants  who  buy  them  to  send  abroad,, 
spread  them  on  cloths,  and  sprinkle  them  with 
vinegar,  in  order  to  kill  the  little  insects  that  are 
\Vithin,  which  yield  a  red  powder,  which  is  sepa-^ 
rated  from  the  shell  after  drying,  and  is  then 
passed  through  a  sieve  ;  this  is  done  particular- 
ly in  Spain, 


dyer's  companion.  191 

They  then  makeit  up  in  bales,  and  in  the  mid- 
dle of  eich  a  quantity  of  this  powder  is  inclos- 
ed in  a  leather  bag>  in  proportion  to  the  whole 
b.ile.  Thus  each  dyer  has  his  due  proportion  of 
this  powder.  These  bales  are  generally  sent  to 
Marseilles,  from  whence  they  are  exported  to 
the  Levant,  Algiers,  and  Tunis,  where  it  is 
greatly  m;ide  use  of  in  dying. 

The  red  draperies  of  the  figures  in  the  ancient 
tapestry  of  Brussels,  and  other  manufactories  of 
Flanders,  are  dyed  with  this  ingredient  ;  and 
some  that  have  been  wrought  upwards  of  two 
hundred  years,  have  scarcely  lost  any  thing  of 
the  brightness  of  the  colour.  I  shall  now  pro- 
ceed to  give  the  method  of  making  this  scarlet  of 
grain,  which  is  now  seldom  used  but  for  wools 
designed  for  tapestry. 

Prefiaration  of  the  n^oolfor  Scarlet  of  Grain. 

Twenty  pounds  of  wool  and  half  a  bushel  of 
bran  are  put  into  a  copper,  with  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  water,  and  suffered  to  boil  half  aa 
hour,  stirring  it  every  now  and  then  ;  it  is  then 
taken  out  to  drain. 

It  is  necessary  to  observe,  that  whenever  spun 
wool  is  to  be  dyed,  a  stick  is  passed  through 
each  hank  (which  commonly  weighs  one  pound) 
and  they  remain  on  the  stick  during  the  course 
of  the  work  to  prevent  their  entangli^ig.  This 
stick  also  enables  the  dyer  to  return  the  hanks 
with  niore  ease,  by  pluriging  each  part  succes- 
sively in  the  liquor,  by  which  they  take  an  equal 
dye  ;  by  raising  the  hank  with  a  stick,  and 
drawing  it  half  way  out  of  the  copper,  seizing 
the  other  end  of  the  hank  with  the  other  hand,  it 
is  plunged  to'vards  the  bottom.  If  the  ivool  be 
too  hot,  this  may  be  doiie  with  two  sticks,  and 
the  oftener  ,this  is  repeated,  the  moreeveii  will 


192  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

be  the  dye  ;  the  ends  of  the  sticks  are  then  plac^ 
ed  on  two  poles  to  drain.  These  poles  are  fix- 
ed in  the  wall  above  the  copper. 

Liquor  for  the  Kermes. 

WHILE  this  prepared  wool  is  draining,  the 
copper  is  emptied,  and  fresh  water  put  in,  to 
which  is  added  about  a  fifth  of  sour  water,  four 
pounds  of  Roman  allum  grossly  powdered,  and 
two  pounds  of  red  tartar.  'I'he  whole  is  brought 
to  boil,  and  that  instant  the  hanks  are  dipped  in 
(on  the  sticks)  which  are  to  remain  in  for  tuo 
hours,  stirring  them  continually  one  after  the 
other  after  the  method  already  laid  down. 

I  must  in  this  place  observe,  that  the  liquor  in 
which  the  allum  is  put,  when  on  the  point  of 
boiling  sometimes  rises  so  suddenly  that  it 
comes  over  the  copper,  if  not  prevented  by  add- 
ing cold  water.  If,  when  it  is  rising,  the  spun 
wool  is  instantly  put  in,  it  stops  it,  and  produces 
the  same  eifects  as  cold  water. 

The  liquor  does  not  rise  so  suddenly  when 
there  is  a  large  quantity  of  tartar,  as  in  the  pro- 
cess ;  but  when  the  allum  is  used  alone,  some- 
times above  half  the  liquor  comes  over  the  cop- 
per when  it  begins  to  boil,  if  not  prevented  by 
the  method  described. 

When  the  wool  has  boiled  two  hours  in  this 
liquor,  it  is  taken  out,  left  to  drain,  gently 
squeezed,  and  put  into  a  linen  bag  in  a  cool 
place  for  five  or  six  days,  and  ^sometimes longer ; 
this  is  called  leaving  the  w^ool  in  preparation. 
This  is  to  make  it  penetrate  the  better,  and  helps 
to  augment  the  action  of  the  salts,  for  as  a  part  of 
the  liquor  always  flies  off,  it  is  evident  that  the 
remaining,  being  fuller  of  saline  particles,  be- 
comes  more  active,  provided  there  remained  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  humidity  ;  for  the  salts 


DYER^S    COMPANION.  193 

being  crystalized  and  dry,  would  have  no  more 
action. 

1  have  dwelled  much  longer  on  this  preparing 
liquor,  and  the  method  of  m^-king  it,  than  1  shall 
in  the  sequel,  as  there  are  a  greiit  number  of  co- 
lours for  uhich  it  is  prepared  pretty  near  in  the 
same  proportion,  so  that  when  this  happens,  I 
sh.dl  slightly  describe  it,  mentioning  only  the 
changes  that  are  to  be  made  in  the  quantity  of 
allum,  tartar,  sour  water,  or  other  ingredients. 

Afi^cr  the  spun  wool  has  been  covered  five 
or  six  days,  it  is  fitted  to  receive  the  dye.  A 
fresh  liquor  is  then  prepared  according  to  the 
quantity  of  wool  to  be  dyed,  and  when  it  begins 
to  be  lukewarm,  take  12  ounces  of  powdered 
kermes  ior  each  pound  of  wool  to  be  dyed,  if  a 
full  and  well-coloured  scarlet  is  wanted.  If  the 
kermes  was  old  and  flat,  a  pound  of  it  v/ould 
be  required  to  each  pound  of  wool-  Vv^hen  the 
liquor  begins  to  boil,  the  yarn  (still  moist,  which 
it  will  be  if  it  has  been  well  w  rppped  in  the 
bag,  and  kept  in  a  cool  place)  is  put  in.  If  it 
had  been  boiled  a  long  time  before^  and  grown 
dry,  it  must  be  lighdy  passed  through  lukewarm 
water,  and  well  squeezed  befi;re  it  is  dyed. 

Previous  to  its  being  dipped  in  the  copper 
with  the  kerm^es,  a  handful  of  \\  ool  is  cast  in, 
which  is  let  to  boil  for  a  minute  :  this  takes  up 
a  kind  of  black  scum,  which  the  kerm.es  cast 
up,  by  which  the  wool  that  is  afterwards  dip- 
ped acquires  a  finer  colour.  This  handful  of 
wool  being  taken  out,  the  prepared  is  to  be  put 
in.  The  hanks  are  passed  on  sticks  as  in  the 
preparation,  continually  stirring,  and  airing 
them  one  after  the  other.  It  must  boil  after 
this  manner  an  hour  at  least,  then  taken  out  and 
placed  on  the  poles  to  drain,  afterwards  wrung 
and  washed. 

The  dye  still  remaining  in  the  liquor,  may  serve 


194  APPENDIX  TO    THE 

to  dip  a  little  fresh  parcel  of  prepared  wool;  it 
will  take  some  colour  in  proportion  to  the  good- 
ness and  quality  of  the  kermes  put  into  the  cop- 
per. 

When  different  shades  are  wanted,  a  less 
quantity  of  kermes  is  used,  so  that  for  twenty 
pounds  of  prepared  wool  seven  or  eight  are  suf- 
ficient. 

The  quantity  of  wool  that  is  to  have  the 
lightest  shade  is  first  to  be  dipped,  and  to  re- 
main no  longer  in  than  the  time  sufficient  to 
turn  it  and  make  it  take  the  dye  equally.  Then 
the  next  deepest  shade  intended  is  dipped,  and 
left  to  remain  some  time  longer  ;  after  this 
manner  the  work  is  continued  to  the  last,  which 
is  left  as  long  as  requisite  to  acquire  the  neces- 
sary shade. 

The  reason  of  working  the  lightest  shades 
first,  is,  that  if  the  yarn  is  left  too  long  in,  no 
damage  is  done,  as  that  hank  may  serve  for  a 
deeper  shade  ;  whereas,  if  they  begin  by  a 
deeper,  there  would  be  no  remedy  if  a  failure 
happened  in  some  of  the  lighter  sliades*  The 
same  caution  is  to  be  taken  in  all  colours  whose 
shades  are  to  be  different. 

There  are  seldom  more  shades  than  one  from 
the  colour  now  spoken  of ;  but  as  the  working 
part  is  the  same  for  all  colours,  what  has  been 
said  on  this  subject  will  serve  for  the  rest. 
^  The  yarn  thus  dyed,  before  bringing  it  to  the 
river,  may  be  passed  through  lukewarm  water, 
in  which  a  small  quantity  of  soap  has  been  per- 
fectly dissolved  :  this  gives  a  brightness  to  the 
colour,  but  at  the  same  time  saddens  it  a  little, 
that  is,  gives  it  a  little  cast  of  the  crimson.  As 
I  shall  often  make  use  of  the  terms  roiizmg 
and  saddening,  especially  in  the  acids,  it  is  ne- 
cessary to  explain  their  meaning. 

Saddening,  is  giving  a  crimson  or  violet  cast 
to  red ;  soap  and  alkaline  salts,  such  as  lie  of 


195 

ashes,  potash,  lime,  sadden  reds;  thus  they 
serve  to  bring  them  to  the  shade  reqiiired  when 
too  bright,  md  that  they  are  too  much  rouzed. 

Rouzing,  IS  doing  quite  the  reverse  ;  it  is  giv- 
ing a  lire  to  the  red,  by  making  it  border  on  the 
ydlovv  or  orange.  This  is  performed  on  wool  by 
the  means  of  acids,  as  red  or  white  tartar,  cream 
of  tartar,  vinegar,  lemon  juice,  and  aquafortis. 
These  a'idsare  added  more  or  less,  according  to 
the  depth  of  the  orange  colour  required.  For 
example,  if  the  scarlet  of  grain  was  wanted  to  be 
more  bright,  and  approach  somewhat  nearer  to 
common  scarlet,  a  little  of  the  scarlet  composi- 
tion, which  has  been  spoken  of,  must  be  pour- 
ed into  the  liquor  after  the  kermics  is  put  in, 
and  the  brown  colour  of  that  liquor  would  im- 
mediately be  brightened  by  the  acid,  and  be- 
come of  a  brighter  red  ;  the  wool  dipped  in 
would  be  more  liable  to  be  spotted  by  mud  and 
acid  liquors  :  the  reason  will  appear  in  the  next 
chapter. 

I  have  made  various  experiments  on  this  co- 
lour, in  order  to  make  it  fitter  and  brighter  than 
what  it  generally  is,  but  I  never  could  extract 
a  red  that  was  to  be  compared  to  that  of  cochi- 
neal. 

Of  all  the  liquors  which  I  made  for  the  pre- 
paration of  the  wool,  that  which  was  made  with 
"the  preparations  just  mentioned  succeeded  best. 
By  changing  the  natural  dye  of  the  kerrnes,  by 
difterent  kinds  of  ingredients  of  metallic  solu- 
tions, &c.  various  colours  are  made,  which  I 
shall  immediately  speak  of. 

I  shall  say  but  little  about  dying  stuffs  with  this 
red,  as  the  proportion  cannot  be  prescribed 
for  each  yard  of  stuff,  on  account  of  their 
breadth  and  thickness,  or  the  quantity  of  wool 
entering  their  composition  \  practice  alone  will 
teach  the  necessary  quantity  for  each  sort  of 


196  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

Stuff;  however,  not  to  work  in  the  dark,  or  t6 
try  experiments  at  random,  the  surest  way  will 
be  to  weigh  the  stuffs,  and  to  diminish  about 
one-fourth  part  of  the  colouring  ingredients  laid 
down  for  spun  wool,  as  stuffs  take  up  less  co- 
lour inwardly,  their  texture  being  more  com- 
pact,  prevents  its  penetration,  whereas  yarn  or 
wool  in  the  fleece  receives  it  equally  within  and 
without. 

The  allum  and  tartar  for  the  Hquor  of  prepa- 
ration for  the  stuffs  must  be  diminished  in  the 
same  proportion,  and  they  are  not  to  remain  in 
the  preparing  liquor  as  long  as  the  wool.  It 
may  he  dyed  the  next  day  after  boiling. 

If  wool  in  the  fleece  is  dyed  with  the  red  of  the 
kermcs,  either  to  incorporate  it  with  cloths  of  a 
mixed  colour,  or  to  make  full  cloths,  it  will  have 
a  much  finer  effect  than  if  the  wool  had  been 
dyed  in  the  red  of  madder.  I  shall  mention  this  in 
describing  the  compound  colours  in  which  the 
kermes  is  used,  or  ought  at  least  be  used  in 
preference  to  madder,  which  does  not  give  so 
fine  a  red,  but,  being  cheaper,  iscommonly  sub- 
stituted  for  it. 

Half  grain  scarlet,  or  bastard  scarlet,  is  that 
which  is  made  of  equal  parts  of  kermes  and 
maddtr.  This  mixture  affords  a  very  holding 
colour,  not  bright,  but  inclining  to  a  blood  red. 
It  h  prepared  and  worked  in  the  same  manner 
as  that  made  of  kermes  alone.  This  dye  is 
much  clieaper  and  the  dyers  commonly  make  it 
less  perfect  by  diminishing  the  kermes  and  aug- 
menting the  madder. 

By  the  proofs  that  have  been  made  of  scarlet  of 
grain  or  kermes,  whether  by  exposing  it  to  the 
sun,  or  by  different  proofs,  it  is  certain  there  is 
not  a  more  holding  or  a  better  colour  ;  yet^  the 
kermes  is  no  where  in  Use  but  at  Venice.  The 
mode  of  thii  colour  has  been  entirely  out  since 


©ver's  companion.  197 

(he  mating  of  flame-coloured  scarlets.  ^This 
scarlet  of  grain  is  now  called  a  colour  of  bul- 
lock's blood  :  nevertheless,  it  has  great  advan- 
tages over  the  other,  for  it  neither  blackens  nor 
pots,  and  grease  may  be  taken  out  without  pre- 
judice to  its  colour  ;  but  it  is  out  of  fashion  and 
that  is  sufficient.  This  has  entirely  put  a  stop 
to  the  consumption  of  kerrnes  in  France.  Scarce 
a  dyer  knovv^s  it,  and  when  Monsieur  Colbert 
wanted  a  certain  quantit^^  for  the  experiments 
above  related,  he  was  obliged  to  send  for  it  to 
Languedoc,  the  merchants  of  Paris  keeping  only 
a  sufficiency  for  medicinal  purposes. 

When  a  dyer  is  obliged  to  dye  a  piece  of 
cloth,  known  yet  under  the  name  of  scarlet  of 
grain,  as  he  has  neither  the  knowledge  of  the 
kermes,  nor  the  custom  of  using  it,  he  makes  it 
of  a  cochineal,  as  I  shall  relate  in  the  following 
receipt ;  it  comes  dearer,  and  is  less  holding 
than  that  made  of  the  kermes.  The  same  is 
done  in  regard  to  spun  wool  designed  for  tapes- 
tries, and  as  this  shade  is  pretty  difficult  to  hit 
with  cochineal,  they  commonly  mix  brazil 
wood,  which  hitherto  has  been  a  false  ingredient, 
permitted  only  in  the  lesser  dye.  For  this  rea- 
son all  these  kind  of  reds  fade  in  a  very  short 
tirne,and  though  they  are  much  brighter  than  re- 
quired, coming  out  of  the  hands  of  the  workman, 
they  lose  all  their  brightness  before  the  expira- 
tion of  a  year  :  they  whiten  or  become  exceed- 
ing grey  ;  it  is  therefore  to  be  w  ished  that  the 
use  of  kermes  was  again  established. 

It  is  also  certain,  that  if  some  dyer  set  about 
using  it,  there  are  several  colours  that  might  be 
extracted  from  it  with  more  ease  and  less  expence 
than  the  common  method ;  for  these  colours 
would  be  better  and  more  holdhig,  and  he  would 
thereby  acquire  a  greater  reputation.  I  have 
made  above  fifty  experiments  with  the  kermes. 
S 


198  APPENDIX    TO  THE 

from  which  some  use  in  practice  may  arise  ;  I 
shall  only  relate  such  as  have  produced  the  most 
singular  colours. 

By  mixing  the  kermes  with  cream  of  tartar, 
M'ithout  allum,  and  as  much  of  the  composition 
as  would  be  used  for  the  making  of  scarlet  with 
cochineal,  you  have  in  one  liquor  an  exceeding 
bright  cinnamon,  for  nothing  but  the  acid  enter- 
ing in  the  mixture,  the  red  parts  of  the  kermes 
become  so  minute  that  they  almost  escape  the 
sight.  But  if  this  cinnamon  colour  be  passed 
through  a  liquor  of  Roman  allum,  part  of  this 
red  appears  again ;  whether  it  be  by  the  ad- 
dition of  the  allurn  that  drives  out  a  part  of  the 
acid  of  the  composition,  or  the  earth  of  the  allum 
precipitated  by  the  astriction  of  the  kermes, 
which  has  the  eflPtct  of  galls,  I  know  not ;  but 
this  red  thus  restored  is  not  fine. 

With  cream  of  tartar  (the  composition  for 
scarlet)  and  allum,  in  greater  quantity  than  tar- 
tar,  the  kermes  gives  a  lilac  colour,  which  varies 
according  a^  the  proportion  of  ingredients  are 
changed. 

If  in  the  place  of  allum  and  tartar,  ready  pre- 
pared  tartar  of  vitriol  is  substituted,  which  is  a 
very  hard  salt  resulting  from  the  mixture  ot  the 
vitriolic  acid  and  a  fixed  alkali,  such  as  the  oil 
of  tartar  potash,  &c.  and  if,  I  say,  after  boiliiig 
the  kermes  in  a  solution  of  a  small  quantity  of 
this  salt,  the  stuff  be  dipped  in  and  boiled  one 
hour,  it  acquires  a  tolerable  handsome  agath 
grey,  and  in  which  very  little  red  is  seen,  for  the 
acid  of  the  couiposition  having  too  much  divid- 
ed the  red  of  the  kermes,  and  the  tartar  of  vi- 
triol, not  containing  the  earth  of  the  allum,  it 
could  not  re- unite  these  red  atoms,  dispersed  by 
precipitation.  These  agath  greys  are  of  the 
good  dye,  for,  as  I  have  observed  in  the  chapter 
treating  of  indigo,  the  tartar  of  vitriol  is  a  hard 


dyer's  companion.  199^ 

salt,  which  is  not  calcined  by  the  sun,  and  is  in- 
dissoluble in  rain  water. 

Glauber  salts  mixed  with  the  kermes  entirely 
destroy  its  red,  and  give  an  earthy  grey  that 
does  not  stand  the  proof,  for  this  salt  neither  re= 
sists  cold  water  nor  the  rays  of  the  sun,  which 
reduce  it  into  powder.  Vitriol  or  green  cop-, 
peras,  and  blue  vitriol  separated  substituted  for 
allum,  but  joined  to  the  crystal  of  tartar,  equal- 
ly destroy  or  veil  the  red  of  the  kermes,  which 
in  these  two  experiments  produce  the  same  ef- 
fect as  if  galls  or  sumac  had  been  made  use  of; 
for  it  precipitates  the  iron  of  the  green  vitriol,  and 
dyes  the  cloth  of  a  grey  brown,  and  the  copper 
of  the  blue  vitriol  dyes  it  of  an  olive. 

Instead  of  blue  vitriol,  I  used  a  solution  of 
copper*  in  aquafortis,  which  also  produced  an 
oHve  colour  ;  a  convincing  proof  that  the  ker- 
rnes  has  the  precipitating  quality  of  the  galls, 
since  it  precipitates  the  copper  of  the  vitriol  as  a 
decoction  of  gall-nut  would. 

There  is  great  probability  that  what  renders 
the  red  of  the  kermes  as  holding  as  that  of  mad- 
der, is  from  the  insects  feeding  on  an  astringent 
shrub,  which,  notwithstanding  the  changes  made 
by  the  digestion  of  the  juices  of  the  plant,  still 
retains  the  astringent  quahty  of  the  vegetable, 
and  consequently  the  virtue,  and  so  gives  a 
greater  spring  to  the  pores  of  the  wool  to  con- 
tract themselves  quicker  and  with  greater 
strength,^  when  it  comes  out  of  the  boiling  wa- 
ter, and  is  exposed  to  the  cold  air  ;  f  >r  I  have 
observed  that  all  barks,  roots,  wood,  fruits,  and 
other  matters  that  have  some  astriction,  yield  co- 
lours of  the  good  dye. 


*  Verdigrease. 


:200  APPEWDIX  TO  THE 

^eceifit  \ZOth.  Flame  coloured  scarlet^  as  firactised  c^ 
Leeds  and  in  France. 

Composition  for  Scarlet. — Take  eight  ounces 
of  spirit  of  nitre,  (which  is  always  purer  than 
the  common  aquafortis  mostly  used  by  the  dy. 
€rs)  and*  be  certain  that  it  contains  no  vitriolic 
acid  ;  weaken  this  nitrous  acid  by  putting  it  in- 
to eight  ounces  of  fikered  river  water  :  dissolve 
in  it,  little  by  little,  half  an  ounce  of  very 
white  salt  ammoniac,  to  make  it  an  aqua  regia, 
because  spirits  of  nitre  alone  will  not  dissolve 
block-tin.  Lastly,  add  two  drachms  of  salt 
petre  ;  this  might  be  omitted,  but  I  observed 
that  it  was  of  use  in  making  the  dye  smooth 
and  equal.  In  this  aqua  regia  thus  weakened, 
dissolve  one  ounce  of  the  best  block-tin,  which 
is  first  granulated  or  made  small  while  melted 
by  casting  it  from  a  height  into  a  vessel  of  cold 
water.  These  small  grains  of  tin  arc  put  into 
the  dissolvent  one  by  one,  letting  the  first  dis- 
solve before  putting  in  others  ;  this  prevents  tlie 
loss  of  the  red  vapours,  which  would  rise  ir> 
great  abundance,  and  be  lost  if  the  dissolution 
of  the  metal  was  made  too  hastily  ;  it  is  neces- 
sary to  preserve  these  vapours,  and,  as  Kunkel 
observed,  they  greatly  contribute  towards  the 

*  Dissolve  in  a  small  quantity  of  spirit  of  nitre  as  nauch  sil- 
ver as  it  will  take  ;  put  a  few  drops  of  this  into  some  of  the 
spirit  of  nitre  that  is  to  be  proved  ;  if  this  spirit  remains 
transparent,  it  is  pure  ;  but  if  a  white  cloud  be  perceived, 
which  will  afterwards  form  a  sediment,  it  is  a  sign  that  there 
is  a  commixture  of  vitriol  or  spirit  of  salt.  In  order  there- 
fore to  render  the  spirit  of  nitre  absolutely  pure,  drop  the 
solution  of  silver  gradually  into  it,  so  long  as  it  shall  produce 
the  least  turbidness,  time  being  given  for  the  spirit  to  be- 
come clear  betwixt  each  addition.  The  spirit  of  nitre  be- 
ing then  poured  off  from  the  scdiment.will  be  perfectly  pure ; 
and  if  this  sediment,  which  is  the  silver  precipitated,  be 
evaporated  to  dryness,  and  then  infused  in  a  crucible  with 
a  small  quantity  of  any  fixed  alkaline  salt,  it  vviUbe  reduced 
to  its  proper  metalline  state. 


dyer's  gompakion.  201 

brightness  of  the  colour,  either  because  these 
vapours  are  acids  that  evaporate  and  are  lost, 
or  contcjin  a  sulphur  peculiar  to  salt  peTre, 
which  gives  a  brightness  to  the  colour  This 
method  is  indeed  much  longer  than  that  used 
by  the  dj^ers,  who  immediately  pour  the  aqua^ 
fortis  upon  the  tin  reduced  to  small  pieces,  and 
wait  till  a  strong  fermentation  ensues,  and  a 
great  quantity  evaporates  before  they  weaken  it 
with  common  water.  When  the^  tin  is  thus 
dissolved,  this  scarlet  composition  is  made,  and 
the  liquor  is  of  the  beautiful  colour  of  dissolved 
gold,  without  any  dirt  or  black  sediment,  as  I 
used  very  pure  tin  without  allay,  and  such  as 
runs  from  the  first  melting  of  the  furnaces  of 
Cornwall.  This  solution  of  tin  is  very  trans- 
parent w^hen  newly  made,  and  becomes  milky 
and  opaque  during  the  great  heat  of  summer  ; 
the  greatest  part  of  the  dyers  are  of  opinion,  that 
it  is  then  changed  and  good  for  nothing  ;  yet 
mine,  notwithstanding  this  defect,  made  as 
bright  scarlet  as  if  it  had  remained  clear ;  be- 
sides,  in  cold  weather  what  I  made  recovered  its 
first  transparency.  It  must  be  kept  in  a  glass 
bottle  with  a  stopper,  to  prevent  the  evaporation 
of  the  volatile  parts. 

As  the  dyers  do  not  attend  to  this,  their  com- 
position often  becomes  useless  at  the  end  of 
twelve  or  fifteen  days.  I  have  laid  down  the 
best  method,  and,  if  they  seek  perfection,  they 
will  abandon  their  old  practice,  which  is  imper- 
feet- 

The  dyers  in  France  first  put  into  a  stone 
vessel,  with  a  large  opening,  two  pounds  of 
salt  ammoniac,  two  ounces  of  refined  saltpetre, 
and  two  pounds  of  tin  reduced  to  grains  by 
water,  or,  which  is  still  preferable,  the  filings 
of  tin  ;  for  vyhen  it  has  been  melted  and  granu- 
lated,  there  is  always  a  small  portion  converted 
S2 


'202  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

into  a  calx  Avhich  does  not  dissolve.  They 
weigh  four  pounds  of  water  in  a  separate  ves- 
sel, of  which  they  pour  about  two  ounces  upon 
the  mixture  in  the  stone  vessel  ;  they  then  add 
a  pound  and  a  half  of  common  aquafortis,  which 
to  it  produces  a  violent  fermentation.  When  the 
ebullition  ceases,  they  put  in  the  same  quantity 
of  aquafortis,  and  an  instant  after  they  add  one 
pound  more.  They  then  put  in  the  remainder  of 
the  four  pounds  of  water  they  had  set  aside  ;  the 
vessel  is  then  close  covered,  and  the  composi- 
tion let  to  stand  till  the  next  day. 
^  The  salt  petre  and  salt  ammoniac  are  some- 
times dissolved  in  the  aquafortis  before  the  tin 
is  put  in;  they  practise  both  methods  indiscri- 
minately,  though  it  is  certain  that  this  last  me- 
thod is  best.  Others  mix  the  water  and  aqua- 
fortis together,  and  pour  this  mixture  on  the  tin 
and  salt  ammoniac.  In  short,  every  dyer  fol- 
lows his  own  method. 

Water  for  the  Prefiaration  of  Scarlet, 

The  day  after  preparing  the  composition,  the 
water  for  the  preparation  of  scarlet  is  made, 
which  differs  from  that  made  in  the  preceding 
receipt. 

Clear  the  water  w^ell.  For  each  pound  of 
spun  wool,  put  twenty  quarts  of  very  cle^r  ri- 
ver water  Chard  spring  water  will  not  do)  into  a 
small  copper.  When  the  water,  is  a  little  more 
than  lukewarm,  two  ouncesof  the  cream  of  tartar 
finely  powdered,  and  one  drachm  and  a  half  of 
powdered  and  silted  cochineal  is  added.  The  fire 
is  then  made  a  little  stronger,  and  when  the  li- 
quor is  ready  to  boil  two  ounces  of  the  compo- 
sition are  put  in.  This  acid  instantly  changes 
the  colour  of  the  liquor,  which,  from  a  crimson, 
becomes  of  the  colour  of  blood. 

As  soon  as  this  liquor  begins  to  boil,  the 


dyer's  companion.  203 

wool  is  dipped  in,  which  must  have  been  pre- 
viously wetted  in  warm  water  and  wrung. 
The  wool  is  continually  worked  in  this  liquor, 
and  left  to  boil  an  hour  and  a  half;  it  is  then 
taken  out,  slightly  wrung,  and  washed  in  fresh 
water.  The  wool  coming  out  of  the  liquor  is 
of  a  lively  flesh  colour,  or  even  some  shades 
deeper,  according  to  the  goodness  of  the  cochi- 
neal, and  the  strength  of  the  composition.  The 
colour  of  the  liquor  is  then  entirely  passed  into 
the  wool,  remaining  almost  as  clear  as  common 
water. 

This  is  called  the  water  of  preparation  for 
scarlet,  and  the  first  preparation  it  goes  through 
before  it  is  dyed ;  a  preparation  absolutely  neces- 
sary, without  which  the  dye  of  the  cochineal 
Would  not  be  so  good. 

Reddening. 

To  finish  it,  a  fresh  liquor  is  prepared  with 
clear  water,  the  goodness  of  the  water  being  of 
the  greatest  importance  towards  the  perfection 
of  the  scarlet.  An  ounce  and  a  half  of  starch 
is  put  in*,  and  when  the  liquor  is  a  little  more 
than  lukewarm,  six  drachms  and  a  half  of  coch. 
ineal  finely  powdered  and  sifted  is  thrown  in. 
A  little  before  the^  liquor  boils,  two  ounces  of 
the  composition  is  poured  in,  and  the  liquor 
changes  its  colour  as  in  the  former.  It  must 
boil,  and  then  the  wool,  is  put  into  the  copper, 
and  continually  stirred  as  in  the  former  It  is 
likewise  boiled  an  hour  and  a  half;  it  is  then 
taken  out,  wrung,  and  washed.  The  scarlet  is 
then  in  its  perfection. 

One  ounce  of  cochineal  is  sufficient  for  a 
pound  of  wool,  provided  it  be  worked  with  at- 

♦  Starch  softens  it. 


2€4  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

tention,  and  after  the  manner  laid  down,  and 
that  no  dye  remains  in  the  liquor.  For  coarse 
cloth  less  would  do,  or  half  as  much  for  worst- 
ed. However,  if  it  was  required  to  be  deeper 
of  cochineal,  a  drachm  or  two  might  be  added, 
but  not  more,  for  it  would  then  lose  its  lustre 
and  brightness. 

Though  I  have  mentioned  the  quantity  of  the 
composition,  both  in  the  w;iter  of  the  prepara- 
tion and  the  dye,  yet  this  proportion  is  not  to  be 
taken  as  -i  fixed  rule. 

The  aqu  ifortis  used  by  the  dyers,  is  seldom 
of  an  equal  strength  ;  if,  tlier^^fore,  it  be  always 
mixed  ^vith  an  equtl  quantity  of  water,  the  com- 
position would  not  produce  the  same  effect :  but 
there  is  a  method  of  ascertaining  the  degree  of 
acidity  of  aquafortis.  For  example,  to  use  that 
only,  two  ounces  of  which  would  dissolve  one 
ounce  of  silver.  This  would  produce  a  com- 
position that  would  be  always  equal,  but  the 
quality  of  the  cochineal  would  then  produce 
nesv  varieties,  and  the  trifling  difference  that  this 
commonly  causes  in  the  shade  of  scarlet  is  of  no 
great^  signification,  as  more  or  less  may  be  used 
to  bring  it  precisely  to  the  colour  desired.  If 
the  composition  be  weak,  and  the  aforesaid 
quantity  not  put  in,  the  scarlet  will  be  a  deeper 
and  fuller  in  colour.  On  the  contrary,  if  a  little 
more  is  added,  it  will  be  more  on  the  orange,  and 
have  what  is  called  more  fire  ;  to  rectify  which, 
add  a  little  of  the  composition,  stirring  it  well  in 
the  copper,  having  first  taken  out  the  wool ;  for 
if  it  was  to  touch  any  part  before  it  was 
thoroughly  mixed,  it  would  blot  it.  If,  on  the 
contrary,  the  scarlet  has  too  much  fire,  that  is, 
too  much  on  the  orange,  or  too  much  rouzed,  it 
must  be  passed  through  clear  warm  water;  when 
finished,  this  saddens  it  a  little,  that  is,  diminish- 
es its  bright  orange ;  if  there  still  remained  too 


BYER^S    COMPANION.  205 

much,  a  little  Roman  allum  must  be  mixed  with 
the  hr)t  water. 

For  spun  wool  that  is  to  have  all  the  various 
shr^des  of  scarlet,  about  half  the  cochineal,  and 
half  the  composition  for  full  scarlet  is  sufficient. 
The  cream  of  tartar  must  also  be  diminished 
proportionably  in  the  water  of  preparation.  The 
wool  must  be  divided  into  as  many  hanks  or 
skains  as  there  are  to  be  shades,  and  when  the  li- 
quor is  prepared,  tlie  skains  that  are  to  be  lightest 
are  first  to  be  dipped,  and  to  remain  in  but  a 
very  short  space  of  time  ;  then  those  that 
are  to  be  a  little  deeper,  which  must  remain  in 
somewhat  longer,  and  thus  proceeding  to  '  the 
deepest ;  the  wool  is  then  to  be  washed,  and  the 
liquor  prepared  to  finish  them.  In  this  liquor, 
each  of  these  shades  are  to  be  boiled  one  after 
the  other,  beginning  always  with  the  lightest,  and 
if  they  are  perceived  not  to  be  of  the  proper 
shade  they  must  be  passed  again  through  the  li- 
quor. The  eye  of  a  dyer,  will  readily  judge  of 
the  shades,  and  a  litde  practice  will  bring  this  to 
perfection. 

The  dyers  are  divided  in  opinion  of  what  me- 
tal the  boiler  should  be  made.  In  Languedoc 
they  use  those  made  of  the  finest  block-tin,  and 
several  dyers,  in  Paris  follow  the  same  method. 
Yet  that  great  dyer,  M.  de  Julienne,  whose 
scarlets  are  in  great  repute,  uses  brass.  The 
same  is  used  in  the  great  manufactory  at  St, 
Dennis.  M.  de  Julienne,  to  keep  the  stufls  from 
touching  the  boiler,  makes  use  of  large  rope  nets 
with  close  meshes^  At  St.  Dennis,  instead  of  a 
rope  net,  they  have  large  baskets,  made  of  wil- 
low stripped  of  the  bark,  and  not  too  close  work- 
ed- 

As  so  much  had  been  said  concerning  the 
metal  of  the  boiler,  I  tried  the  experiment.  I 
took  two  ells  of  white  sedan  cloth,  which  I  dyed 


206  APPENDIX    TO  TUE'- 

in  two  separate  boilers  of  equal  size  ;  one  was  of  j 
brass,  fitted  with  a  rope  net,  the  other  of  block ; 
tin.  The  cochineal,^  the  composition,  and  other  i 
ingredients,  were  weiglied  with  the  utmost  ac-j 
curacy  and  boiled  precisely  the  same  time.  In 
short,  I  took  all  possible  care  that  the  process 
should  be  the  same  in  both,  that  if  any  difference 
arose  it  might  only  be  attributed  to  the  different 
metals  of  the  boiler.  After  the  first  liquor,  the 
two  pieces  of  cloth  were  absolutely  alike  only 
that  which  had  been  boiled  in  the  tin  vessel  ap- 
peared a  little  more  streaked  and  uneven,  which, 
in  all  likelihood,  proceeded  from  these  two  ells 
of  cloth  being  less  scoured  at  the  mill  than  the 
two  others ;  the  two  pieces  were  finished  each 
in  the  separate  boilers,  and  both  turned  out  very 
fine ;  but  that  which  had  been  made  in  the  tin 
boiler  had  a  little  more  fire  than  the  other,  and 
the  last  was  a  little  more  saddened.  It  would 
have  been  an  easy  matter  to  have  brought  them 
both  to  the  same  sliade,  but  that  was  not  my 
intention. 

From  this  experiment,  I  conclude,  that  when 
a  brass  boiler  is  used,  it  requires  a  little  more  of 
the  composition  than  the  tin  one  ;  but  this  addi- 
tion of  the  composition  makes  the  cloth  feel 
rough ;  to  avoid  this  defect,  the  dyers  who  use 
brass  vessels  put  in  a  litde  turmeric,  a  drug  of 
the  dye,  but  which  gives  to  scarlet  that  shade 
which  is  now  in  fiishion  ;  I  mean  that  flame- 
colour,  which  the  eye  is  scarce  able  to  bean 

This  adulteration  is  easily  discovered  by  cut- 
ting a  piece  of  the  cloth  ;  if  there  is  no  turmeric, 
the  web  will  be  of  a  fine  white,  but  yellow  if 
there  is.  When  the  web  is  dyed  the  same  as  the 
surface,  it  is  said  that  colour  is  webbed,  and  the 
contrary,  when  the  middle  of  the  weaving  re- 
mains white.  The  lawful  scarlet  is  never  dyed 
in  the  web  :  the  adulterated,  where  the  turmeric 
or  fustic  has  been  made  use  ofj  is  more  liaWe  to 


dyer's  COMPANIOl^^  207 

change  its  colour  in  the  air  than  the  other.  But 
as  the  brightest  scarlers  are  now  in  fashion,  and 
must  have  a  yellow  cast,  it  is  better  to  t')ltratc 
the  use  of  turmeric,  than  to  use  too  great  a  quan- 
tity of  the  composition  to  bring  the  scarlet  to  this 
shade ;  for  in  this  last  case,  the  cloth  would  be 
damaged  by  it,  would  be  suoner  spotted  by  dirt 
from  the  quality  of  the  acid,  ^nid  would  be  niore 
easily  torn,  because  acids  stiffen  the  fibres  of  the 
wool,  and  render  them  brittle.  ^ 

I  must  also  take  notice,  that  if  a  copper  vessel 
is  ust'd  it  cannot  be  kept  too  clean.  I  have  failed 
several  times  vv  ith  my  patterns  of  scarlet,  by  not 
having  the  copper  s(  oured. 

I  cannot  help  condemning  the  common  prac- 
tice of  s(^me  dyers,  even  the  most  eminer.t,  who 
prepare  their  liq«ior  over  night,  and  ketp  it  hot 
till  next  morning,  \^hen  they  dip  it »  their  stuffs; 
tliis  they  do,  not  to  lose  time,  but  it  is  certain 
that  the  liquor  corrodes  the  copper  in  that  space, 
and  by  iritroducing  particles  of  copper  in  the 
cloth,  prejudices  the  beauty  of  the  scarlet.  They 
may  say  thty  only  put  in  their  composition  just 
at  the  time  when  the  cloth  is  ready  to  be  dipt  in 
the  copper ;  but  the  cream  of  tartar,  or  the  white 
tartar,  which  they  put  in  over  ^nglit,  is  an  acid 
salt  sufficient  to  corrode  the  copper  of  the  vessel, 
and  f  rm  a  verdigrease,  althouglt  it  dilutes  itself 
as  it  forms,  still  has  not  a  less  eff.et. 
^  It  would  therefore  be  better  to  make  use  of 
tin  boilers,  a  boiler  of  this  metal  must  contri- 
bute to  the  beauty  of  scarlet  ;  but  these  boilers 
of  a  sufficient  size  cost  much,  and  may  be  melt- 
ed by  the  negligence  of  the  workmen,  and  there 
is  a  difficulty  in  casting  them  of  so  great  a  size 
without  sand  flaws,  which  must  be  filled.  Now 
if  these  sand-holes  are  filled  with  solder,  there 
must  of  necessity  be  places  in  the  boiler  that 
contain  lead  ;  this  lead  in  time  being  corroded 


208  APPENDIX    TO  THE 

by  the  acid  of  the  composition,  will  tarnish  the 
scarlet.  Bat  ifsuch  a  boiler  could  be  cast  with- 
out any  sand-holes,  it  is  certain  such  a  one 
would  be  preferable  to  all  others,  as  it  contracts 
no  rust,  and  if  the  acid  of  the  liquor  detaches 
some  parts,  they  cannot  be  hurtful. 

Having  laid  down  the  manner  of  dying  spun 
wool  m  scarlet,  and  its  various  shades,  which 
are  so  necessary  for  tapestry  and  other  work,  it 
is  proper  to  give  an  idea  of  the  dying  of  several 
pieces  of  stuff  at  one  tirne.  I  shall  relate  this 
operation  as  it  is  practised  in  Languedoc.  I 
made  the  trial  on  some  ells  of  stuff,  which  suc- 
ceeded very  well,  but  this  scarlet  was  not  so  fine 
as  the  flame  coloured. 

There  are  two  reasons  why  the  wool  is  not 
dyed  before  it  is  spun  (for  fine  colours)  first  in 
the  course  of  the  manufacturing,  that  is,  either 
in  the  spiniiing,  carding,  or  weaving,  it  would 
be  almost  impossible  in  a  large  workshop,  where 
there  are  many  workmen,  but  that  some  parti- 
cles of  white  wool,  or  some  other  colour  would 
mix,  which  would  spoil  that  of  the  stuff  by 
blotting  it  ever  so  little ;  for  that  reason,  the 
reds,  the  blues,  the  yellows,  the  greens,  and  all 
other  colours  that  are  to  be  perfectly  uniform, 
are  never  dyed  before  they  are  manufactured. 

The  second  reason,  which  is  peculiar  to  scar, 
let,  or  rather  to  cochineal,  is,  that  it  will  not 
stand  che  milling,  and  as  the  greatest  part  of 
high  stuffs  must  be  milled  after  they  are  taken 
from  the  loom,  the  cochineal  would  lose  part  of 
its  colour,  or  at  least  would  be  greatly  sadden- 
ed  by  the  soap,  which  produces  this  effect  by 
the  alkaline  salt  which  destroys  the  brightness 
given  to  the  red  by  the  acid.  These  are  the 
reasons  that  the  cloths  and  stuffs  are  not  dyed  in 
scarlet,  light  red,  crimson,  violet,  purple,  and 
other  light  colours,  but  after  being  entirely  mill- 
ed and  dressed. 


Dter's  comPx^niCn^.  209 

To  dye,  for  example;  five  pieces  of  cloth  at 
one  time  of  five  quarters  breadth,  and  contain* 
ing  fifteen  or  sixteen  ells  each,  the  following  pro. 
portions  are  to  be  observed.  Put  into  a  stone 
or  glazed  earthen  pot  twelve  pounds  of  aqua« 
fortis,  and  t^venty  pounds  of  water,  to  which 
add  a  poui>d  and  a  half  of  tin,  made  in  grains  by 
running  it  in  water,  or  filed.  The  dissolution  is 
made  quicker  or  slower,  according  to  the  greater 
or  lesser  acidity  of  the  aquafortis.  The  whole 
is  left  to  rest  twelve  hours  at  least,  during  which 
time  a  kind  of  black  mud  settles  at  the  bottom 
of  the  vessel  ;  what  swims  over  this  sediment 
is  poured  oft'  by  inclination  ;  this  liquor  is  clear 
^nd  yellow,  and  is  the  composition  which  is  to 
be  kept  by  itself. 

This  process  differs  from  the  first  in  the  quan- 
tity of  water  mixt  with  the  aquafortis,  and  in 
the  small  quantity  of  tin,  little  of  which  must 
remain  in  theJiquor,  since  aquafortis  alone  can. 
not  dissolve  it,  but  only  corrodes  it,  and  reduces 
it  to  a  calx,  as  there  is  neither  salt  petre,  not  salt 
ammoniac  which  would  form  an  aqua  regia* 
However,  the  efftct  of  this  composition  differs 
from  the  first  only  to  tlie  eyes  accustomed  to 
judge  of  that  colour. 

^  This  composition  made  without  salt  ammo- 
niac, and  which  has  been  of  long  use  amongst  a 
great  number  of  manufiicturers  at  Carcassone, 
who  certainly  imagined  that  its  effect  was  owing 
to  the  sulphur  of  the  tin,  can  only  keep  thirty- 
six  hours  in  winter  without  spoiling,  and  tvven- 
ty.four  hours  in  summer  ;  at  the  expiration  of 
which  it  grows  muddy,  and  a  cloud  precipitates 
to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  which  changes  to  a 
white  sediment.  This  is  the  small  quantity  of 
tin,  which  uas  suspended  in  the  acid,  but  au 
acid  not  prepared  for  that  meta!  ;  the  com. 
position  which  ought  to  be  yellov/  becom.ets  at 


210  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

this  time  as  clear  as  water,  and  if  used  In  that 
state  would  not  succeed  ;  it  would  have  the 
same  effect  as  that  which  would  become  milky. 

The  late  M.  Baron  pretended  to  have  been  the 
first  discoverer  at  Carcassoneofthe  necessity  of 
adding  salt  ammoniac  to  hinder  the  tin  from 
precipitating.  If  so,  there  was  no  one  in  that 
town  that  knew  that  tin  cannot  be  really  dissolve 
ed  but  by  aqua  regia. 

Haying  prepared  the  composition  as  I  have 
described  it  after  M.  de  Fondriers,  about  sixty 
cubicalfeet  of  waterare  put  into  a  large  copper 
for  the  five  pieces  of  cloth  before  mentioned, 
and  when  the  water  grows  warm,  a  bag  with 
bran  is  put  in,  sometimes  also  sour  waters  are 
used  ;  the  one  and  the  other  serve  to  correct 
the  water,  that  is,  to  absorb  the  earthy  and  alka* 
line  matters  which  maj'  be  in  it,  and  which,  as 
I  have  already  said,  saddens  the  dye  of  the  coch- 
ineal,  for  the  effect  of  the  water  ought  to  be  well 
known,  and  experience  will  teach  whether  such 
expedients  should  be  used,  or  whether  the  wa- 
ter, being  very  pure  and  denulated  of  salts  and 
earthy  particles,  can  be  used  without  such  helps. 

Be  that  as  it  will,  as  soon  as  the  water  begins 
to  be  little  more  than  lukewarm,  ten  pounds  of 
powdered  cream  of  tartar  is  flung  in,  that  is, 
two  pounds  for  each  piece  of  cloth.  The  liquor 
is  then  raked  strongly,  and  when  it  gro\ys  a  little 
hotter,  half  a  pound  of  cochineal  is  cast  in  which 
is  well  mixt  with  sticks  ;  immediately  after 
twenty -seven  pounds  of  the  composition  very 
clear  is  poured  in,  which  is  also  well  stirred,  and 
as  soon  as  the  liquor  begins  to  boil,  the  cloths 
are  put  in,  which  are  made  to  boil  strongly  for 
two  hours,  stirring  them  continually  by  the 
help  of  the  wynch  :  they  are  then  taken  out  upon 
the  scray,  and  well  handled  three  or  four  times 
from  end  to  end,  by  passing  the  lists  between 


dyer's  companion.  211 

t^e  hands  to  air  and  cool  them.    They  are  af- 
ter vvards  washed. 

After  the  cloth  has  been  waslied,  the  copper 
is  emptied  and  a  fresh  liquor  prepared,  to  which 
if  necessary^  a  bag  with  bran  or  some  sour  wa- 
ter is  added ;  but  if  the  water  is  of  a  good  qua- 
lity, these  are  to  be  omitted ;  when  the  Hquor 
is  ready  to  boil,  eight  pounds  and  a  quarter  of 
powdered  and  sifted  cochineal  is  put  in,  which 
is  to  be  mixed  as  equally  as  possible  through- 
out the  liquor,  and  having  left  off  stirring,  it 
is  to  be  observed  when  the  cochineal  rises  on 
the  surface  of  the  water,  and  forms  a  crust  of 
the  colour  of  the  lees  of  the  wine  ;  the  instant 
this  crust  opens  of  itself  in  several  places,  eigh- 
teen or  twenty  pounds  of  the  composition  is  to 
be  added.  A  vessel  with  cold  water  must  be 
at  hand  to  cast  on  the  liquor  in  case  it  should 
rise,  as  it  sometimes  does,  after  tlie  cc^nposition 
is  put  in. 

As  soon  as  the  composition  is  hi  the  copper, 
and  equally  distributed  throughout  the  whole, 
the  cloth  is  cast  in,  and  the  wynch  strongly 
turned  two  or  three  times,  that  all  the  pieces 
may  equally  take  the  dye  of  the  cochineal. 
Afterwards  it  is  turned  slowly  to  let  the  water 
boil,  which  it  must  do  very  fast  for  one  hour, 
ahvays  turning  the  wynch,  and  sinking  the  cloth 
in  the  liquor  with  sticks,  when  by  boiling  it 
rises  too  much  on  the  surface.  The  cloth  is 
then  taken  out,  and  the  lists  passed  between 
the  hands  to  air  and  cool  it ;  it  is  then  washed, 
after  which  it  is  to  be  dried  and  dressed. 

In  each  piece  of  the  Languedoc  scarlet  cloth 
there  is  used,  as  has  been  shewn,  one  pounei 
and  three-quarters  of  cochineal  in  the  dye  and 
preparation ;  this  quantity  is  sufficient  to  give 
the  cloth  a  very  beautiful  colour.  If  more  coch- 
ineal was  added,  and  a  deeper   orange-colour 


2i2  APPENDIX  T.0  THE 

required,  the  quantity  of  the  composition  must 
foe  ..ugmented. 

When  a  great  quantity  of  stuffs  are  to  be  dj^ed 
in  scarlet,  a  con  idcr-'ble  profit  arises  by  do- 
ing tliem  together,  for  the  same  liquor  serves 
for  the  second  dip  which  was  used  for  the  first. 
For  example  :  vvhen  the  five  first  pieces  are  fin- 
ished, there  always  rernains  in  the  liquor  a 
certain  quantity  of  cochineal,  which  in  seven 
pounds  may  amount  to  twelve  ounces  ;  so  that 
if  this  liquor  be  used  to  dye  other  stuffs,  the 
cloths  dipped  in  it  will  have  the  same  shade  of 
rose  colour  as  if  they  had  been  dyed  in  a  fresh 
liquor  with  twelve  ounces  of  cochineal ;  yet  this 
<iuantity  may  vary^  pretty  much,  according  ta 
the  quality  or  choice  of  the  cochineal,  or  ac- 
cording to  the  fineness  it  has  been  reduced  to 
when  powdered.  But  whatever  colour  may  re- 
main in  the  liquor,  it  deserves  some  attention 
on  account  of  the  high  price  of  this  drug.  The 
same  liquor  is  then  made  use  of  for  other  five 
pieces,  and  less  cochineal  and  composition  are 
put  in  proportion  to  what  may  be  judged  tore- 
main  ;  fire  and  time  are  also  saved  by  this,  and 
rose-colour  and  flesh-colour  may  also  be  pro- 
duced from  it ;  but  if  the  dyers  have  no  leisure 
to  make  these  different  liquors  in  twenty-four 
hours,  the  colour  of  the  liquor  corrupts,  growls 
turbid,  and  loses  the  rose-colour  entirely.  To 
prevent  this  corruption  some  put  in  Roman  al- 
lum,  but  the  scarlets  which  are  prepared  after 
that  manner  are  ill  saddened. 

When  cloths  of  different  qualities,  or  any 
©ther  stuffs  are  to  be  dyed,  the  surest  method  is 
io  M^eigh  them,  and  for  each  hundred  weight  of 
cloth  add  about  six  pounds  of  crystal  or  cream 
of  tartar,  eighteen  pounds  of  composition  in  the 
water  of  preparation,  as  much  for  the  reddening, 
and  six  pounds  and  a  quarter  of  cochineal. 
Thus  in  proportion  for  one  pound  of  stuff  use 


DYER^S    COMPANION.  213 

one  ounce  of  cream  of  tartar,  six  ounces  of  com- 
position, and  one  ounce  of  cochineal ;  some  emi- 
nent dyers  at  Paris  put  two-thirds  of  the  com- 
position and  a  fourth  of  the  cochineal  in  the 
water  of  preparation,  and  the  other  third  of  the 
composition  with  three- fourths  of  the  cochineal 
in  reddening. 

It  is  not  customary  to  put  cream  of  tartar  in 
the  reddening,  yet  I  am  certain,  by  experience, 
that  it  does  not  hurt,  provided  the  quantity  does 
not  exceed  half  the  weight  of  the  cochineal,  and 
it  appeared  to  me  to  make  a  more  lasting  colour. 
Some  dyers  have  made  scarlet  with  three  dip- 
pings ;  namely,  a  first  and  second  water  for  pre- 
paration, and  then  the  reddening ;  but  still  the- 
same  quantity  of  drugs  is  always  used. 

I  observed,  in  the  foregoing  receipt,  that  the 
little  use  rnade  of  kermes  for  the  brown  or  Ve- 
netian scarlets,  obliges  most  dyers  to  make  them 
with  cochineal ;  for  this  purpose  a  water  of  pre^ 
paration  is  made  as  usual ;  and  for  the  redden- 
ing, eight  pounds  of  allum  are  added  for  each 
hundred  weight  of  stuff ;  this  allum  is  dissolved 
by  itself  in  a  kettle,  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
water,  then  poured  into  the  liquor  before  the 
cochineal  is  put  in.  The  remainder  is  perform- 
ed exactly  as  in  the  common  scarlet ;  this  is  the 
Venetian  scarlet,  but  it  has  not  near  the  same 
solidity  as  if  made  with  the  kermes. 

There  are  no  alkaline  salts  which  do  not  sad- 
den scarlet ;  of  this  number  are  the  salt  of  tartar, 
potash,  pearlash  calcined,  and  nitre  fixed  by 
fire;  therefore  allum  is  more  generally  used; 
and  if  these  alkaline  salts  be  boiled  with  the 
stuffs,  they  would  considerably  damage  them, . 
for  they  dissolve  all  animal  substances.  If  the 
allum  be  calcined,  it  is  still  the  more  secure- 

The  redder  the  scarlet  is,  the  more  it  has  been 
saddened ;  from  thence  it  appears  that  these  cc- 
T  2 


2l4  APPENDIX  TO  TH2 

lours  lose  m  the  liquor  that  browns  them  a  part 
of  their  ground  ;  however  one  cannot  brown  in 
the  good  dye  but  with  salts.  The  late  M.  Ba- 
ron  observes,  in  a  memoir  he  gave  sometime  ago 
to  the  Royal  Academy  of  Sciences,  that  all  the 
salts  he  had  made  use  of  for  browning,  making 
the  colour  smooth,  and  preserving  its  brightness 
and  deepnrss,  he  h:^d  succeeded  best  with  salt 
of  urine,  but,  as  he  observes,  it  is  too  trouble- 
some to  make  this  salt  in  any  quantity. 

I  said,  in  the  preceding  receipt  and  the  chap- 
ter on  yell:»w,  that  tUv  choice  of  the  water  for 
scarlet  and  other  bright  colours  was  very  mate- 
rial, and  as  the  greatest  part  of  common  water 
saddens  it,  for  they  mostly  contain  a  chalky,  cal- 
careous earth,  and  sometimes  a  sulphureous  or 
-vitriolic  acid ;  these  are  commonly  called  hard 
waters,  that  is,  they  will  not  dissolve  soap  or 
boil  vegetables  well.  By  finding  a  method  of 
absorbing  or  precipitating  these  hurtful  matters, 
all  waters  may  be  equally  good  for  this  kind  of 
dye  :  thus,  if  alkaline  matters  are  to  be  removed, 
a  little  sour  water  produces  this  effect ;  for  if 
five  or  six  buckets  of  these  sour  waters  are  mix- 
ed with  sixty  or  seventy  of  the  hard  water  be- 
fore it  comes  to  boil,  these  alkaline  earths  rise 
in  a  scum,  which  is  easily  taken  off  the  liquor. 

AH  that  I  have  iiitberto  said  in  this  chapter 
is  for  the  instruction  of  dyers  ;  I  shall  now  make 
an  attempt  to  satisfy  the  philosopher  how  these 
different  effects  are  produced. 

Cochineal,  infused  or  boiled  by  itself  in  pure 
vVarer,  gives  a  crimson  colour  bordering  on  the 
purple  ;  this  is  its  natural  colour  ;  put  it  into  a 
sglass,  and  drc>p  on  it  spirits  of  nitre  ;  this  colour 
will  become  yc  Uov*^,  and  if  you  still  add  more, 
you  will  scarcely  perceive  that  there  was  origin- 
ally anyred  in  the  liquor;  thus  the  acid  destroys  the 
red  bv  dissolving  it  and  dividing  its  parts  so  mi- 
nutely that  they  escape  the  sight.    If  in  this  ax^- 


215 

periment  a  vitriolic,  instead  of  a  nitrous  acid 
be  used,  the  first  changes  of  the  colour  will  be 
purple,  then  purpled  lilac,  after  that  a  light  lilac, 
then  flesh- colour,  and  lasdy  colourless.  This 
blueish  substance,  which  mixes  with  the  red  to 
form  a  purple,  may  proceed  from  that  stpall  por. 
tion  of  iron,  fromvvhich  oil  of  vitriol  is  rarely 
exempt.  In  the  liquor  of  preparation  for  scar. 
let,  no  other  salt  but  cream  of  tartar  is  used,  no 
allura  is  added  as  in  the  common  preparing  wa- 
ter for  other  colours,  because  it  would  sadden 
the  dye  by  its  vitriolic  acid  ;  yet  a  calx  or  lime 
is  required,  which,  with  the  red  parts  of  the 
cochineal,  may  form  a  kind  of  lake,  like  that  the 
painters  use,  which  may  set  in  the  pores  of  the 
wool  by  the  help  of  the  crystal  of  tartar. 

This  white  calx  is  found  in  the  solution  of 
very  pure  tin,  and  if  the  experiment  of  the  dye 
is  made  in  any  small  glazed  earthen  vessel,  im- 
mediately on  the  cochineal's  communicating  its 
tincture  to  the  water,  and  then  adding  the  com- 
position drop  by  drop,  each  drop  may  be  per- 
ceived  with  a  glass  or  lens,  to  form  a  small  cir- 
cle, in  which  a  brisk  fermentation  is  c  irried  on  ; 
the  calx  of  the  tin  will  be  seen  to  separate,  and 
instantaneously  to^  take  the  bright  d}  e,  which 
the  cloth  will  receive  in  the  sequel  of  the  ope» 
ration. 

A  further  proof  that  this  white  calx  of  tin  is 
necessary  in  this  operation,  is  that  if  cochineal 
was  used  with  aquafortis,  or  spirits  of  nilre 
alone  a  very  ugly  crimson  would  be  obtained ;  if  a 
solution  of  any  other  metal  was  made  use  of  in 
spirits  of  nitre,  as  of  iron  or  mercury,  from  the 
jBrst  would  be  had  a  deep  cinder- grey,  and  from 
the  second,  a  chesnut  colour  with  green  streaks, 
^  without  being  able  to  trace  in  the  one  or  othei^ 
any  remains  of  the  red  of  the  cochineaL  There- 
fore,  by  what  I  have  laid  down,  it  may  be  r§a^» 


216  APPENDIX  TO  THE 


son  able  to  suppose,  that  the  white  calx  of  the 
tin,  having  been  dyed  by  the  colouring  parts  of 
the  cochineal,  rouzed  by  the  acid  of  the  dis- 
solvent of  this  metal,  has  formed  this  kind  of 
earth^'  lake  whose  atoms  have  introduced  them- 
selves into  the  pores  of  the  wool,  which  were 
opened  by  the  boihng  water,  that  they  are  plais- 
tered  by  the  crystal  of  tartar,  and  these  pores, 
suddenly  contracting  by  the  immediate  cold  the 
cloth  was  exposed  to  by  airing,  that  these  co- 
louring particles  are  found  sufficiently  set  in  to 
be  of  the  good  dye,  and  that  the  air  will  take  off 
the  primitive  brightness,  in  proportion  to  the  va- 
rious matters  with  which  it  is  impregnated.  In 
the  country,  for  example,  and  particularly  if  the 
situation  be  high,  a  scarlet  cloth  preserves  its 
brightness  much  longer  th'an  in  great  cities, 
where  the  urinous  and  alkaline  vapours  are 
more  abundant.  For  the  same  reason,  the 
country  mud  vvith,  which  in  roads  is  generally 
but  an  earth  diluted  by  rain  water  does  not  stain 
scarlet  as  the  mud  of  towns  where  there  are 
urinous  matters,  and  often  a  greatdeal  of  dissolv- 
ed iron,  as  in  the  streets  of  great  cities,  for  it  is 
well  known  that  any  alkaline  matter  destroys  the 
effect  which  an  acid  has  produced  on  any  co- 
lour  whatsoever.^  And  for  the  like  reason,  if  a 
piece  of  scarlet  is  boiled  in  a  lie  of  potash,  this 
colour  becomes  purple,  and  by  a  continuation 
of  boiling  it  is  entirely  taken  out  ;  thus  from  this 
fixed  alkali,  and  the  crystal  of  tartar,  a  soluble 
tartar  is  made,  which  the  water  dissolves  and 
easily  detaches  from  the  pores  of  the  wool  :  all 
the  mastic  of  the  colouring  parts  is  then  destroy- 
ed, and  they  enter  into  the  lies  of  the  salts. 

EeceifLt  ISl^r.     Scarlet  of  Gum- Lac  que, 

THE  red  part  of  the  gum-lacque  may  be 


\ 


dter's  companion.  217 

also  used  for  the  dying  of  scarlet,  and  if  this 
scarlet  has  not  all  the  brightness  of  that  made 
of  fine  cochineal  alone,  it  has  the  advantage  of 
being  more  lasting. 

The  gum-lacqne,  which  is  in  branches  oi*^ 
small  sticks  and  full  of  animal  parts,  is  the  fit- 
test for  dying.  It  must  be  red  within,  and  its 
external  parts  of  a  blackish  brown  ;  it  appears 
by  a  particular  examination  made  of  it  by  M. 
Geoffroy  some  years  since,  that  it  is  a  sort  of 
hive,  somewhat  like  that  of  bees,  w^asps,  &c. 

Some  dyers  make  use  of  it  powdered  and  tied 
in  a  linen  bag  ;  but  this  is  a  bad  method,  for- 
there  always  passes  through  the  cloth  sorne  re- 
sinous portion  of  the  gum,  which  melts  in  the 
boiling  water  of  the  copper,  and  sticks  to  the 
cloth,  where  it  becomes  so  adherent  \vhen  cold, 
that  it  must  be  scraped  off  with  a  knife. 

Others  reduce  it  to  poy/der,  boil  it  in  water^ 
and  after  it  has  given  all  its  colour,  let  it  cool^ 
and  the  resinous  parts  fall  to  the  bottom.  The 
water  is  poured  out,  and  evaporated  by  the  air^ 
where  it  often  becomes  stinking,  and  when  it 
has  acquired  the  consistence  of  thick  honey,  it 
is  put  into  vessels  for  use.  Under  this  form 
it  is  pretty  difficult  justly  to  determine  the  quan- 
tity that  is  used  ;  this  induced  me  to  seek  the 
means  of  obtaining  this  tincture  separated  from 
its  resinous  gum,  without  being  obliged  to  evap. 
orate  so  great  a  quantity  of  water  to  have  it  dry, 
and  to  reduce  it  to  powder. 

I  tried  it  with  weak  lime  water,  with  a  de- 
coction of  the  heart  of  agaric,  with  a  decoction 
of  comfrey-root,  recommended  in  an  ancient 
book  of  physic  ;  in  all  these  the  water  leaves  a 
part  of  the  dye,  and  it  still  passes  too  full  of  co- 
lour,  and  it  ^  ought  to  be  evaporated  to  get  all 
the  dye  ;  this  evaporation  1  wanted  to  avoid, 
therefore  I  made  use  of  mucilaginous  or  slimy 


218  APPENDIX  TO    THE 


^ 


roots,  which  of  themselves  gave  no  colour,  but 
whose  mucilage  might  retain  the  colouring 
parts,  so  that  they  might  remain  with  it  on  the 
filter. 

The  great  com frey- root  has,  as  yet,  the  best 
answered  my  intention :  I  use  it  dry  and  in  a  gross 
powder,  putting  half  a  drachm  to  each  quart" 
of  water,  which  is  boiled  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
passing  it  through  a  hair  sieve.  It  immediate- 
ly extracts  from  it  a  beautiful  crimson  tiixture  ; 
put  the  vessel  to  digest  in  a  moderate  heat  for 
twelve  hours,  shaking  it  seven  or  eight  times  to 
mix  it  with  the  gum  that  remains  at  the  bottom^ 
then  pour  oif  the  water  this  is  loaded  with  co- 
lour in  a  vessel  sufficiently  large,  that  three- 
fourths  may  remain  empty,  and  fill  it  with  cold 
water  :  then  pour  a  very  sm-^.ll  quantity  of  strong 
solution  of  Roman  allum  on  the  tincture;  the 
mucilaginous  or  slimy  dye  precipitates  itself, 
and  if  the  water  which  appears  on  the  top  ap- 
pears still  coloured,  add  some  drops  of  the  so- 
lution of  allum  to  finish  the  precipitation,  and 
this  repeat  till  the  water  becomes  as  clear  as 
common  water,^ 

When  the  crimson  mucilage  or  slime  is  all 
sunk  to  the  brittom  of  the  vessel,  draw  off  the 
clear  v/ater,  and  filter  the  remainder  ;  after 
which,  dry  it  in  the  sun. 

If  the  first  mucilaginous  water  has  not  extract- 
ed all  the  colour  of  the  gum-lacque,  (which  is 
known  by  the  remaining  being  of  a  weak  straw 
colour)  repent  the  operation  until  you  separate 
all  the  dye  the  gum-lacque  can  furnish;  and  as 
it  is  reduced  to  powder  when  dry,  the  quantity 
to  be  used  in  the  dye  is  more  exactly  ascertain. 
ed  than  by  evaporating  it  to  the  consistence  of 
an  extract. 

Good  gum-lacque,  picked  from  its  sticks, 
yields,  dried  and  powdered,  but  little  more  dye 


dter'-s  coMPANiaic.  219^ 

than  one-fifth  of  its  weight.  Thus  at  the  price 
it  bears  at  present,  there  is  not  so  gr^at  an  ad- 
vantage  as  many  may  imagine  in  using  it  in  the 
place  of  cochineal ;  but  to  make  the  scarlet  co- 
lour more  lasting  than  it  commonly  is,  it  may 
be  used  in  the  first  liquor  or  preparation,  and 
cochineal  for  reddening. 

If  scarlet  is  made  of  gum-lacque,  extracted 
according  to  the  method  here  taught,  and  reduc- 
ed to  powder,  a  caution  is  to  be  taken  in  dissolv- 
ing it,  which  is  useless  when  cochineal  is  used  ; 
that  is,  if  it  was  put  into  the  liquor  ready  to  hoil, 
the  dyer  would  lose  three-quarters  of  an  hour, 
before  it  would  be  dissolved  entirely  ;  therefore 
for  despatch,  put  the  dose  of  this  dry  tincture 
into  a  large  earthen  vessel,  or  into  one  of  tin, 
pour  warm  water  on  it,  and  when  it  is  well 
moistened,  add  the  necessary  dose  of  the  com- 
position for  scarlet,  stirring  the  mixture  well 
with  a  glass  pestel.  This  powder,  which  was 
of  a  dirty  deep  purple,  as  it  dissolves  takes 
fire-coloured  red  extremely  bright  ;  pour  the 
dissolution  into  the  liquor,  in  which  was  pre- 
viously put  the  cry stal  of  tartar,  and  as  soon  as 
this  liquor  begins  to  boil,  dip  the  cloth  in,  keep- 
ing  it  continually  turning.  The  remaining  part 
of  the  operation  is  the  same  as  that  of  scarlet 
with  cochineal :  the  extract  of  gum-lacque,  pre- 
pared according  to  my  method,  yields  about 
one- ninth  more  of  dye  than  cochineal,  at  least 
than  that  which  I  made  use  of  for  this  com- 
parison. 

If  instead  of  the  crystal  of  tartar  and  the  com- 
position of  some  fixed  alkaline  salt  or  lime  wa- 
ter  is  substituted,  the  bright  red  of  the  gum- 
lacque  is  changed  into  the  colour  of  lees  of 
wine,  so  that  this  dye  does  not  sadden  so  easily 
as  that  of  cochineal. 

If  instead  of  these  alternatives,  salt  ammoniac 


220"  APPENDIX  TO  TH£ 

is  used  by  itself,  cinnamon  or  clear  cliesnut  co- 
Jours  are  obtained,  and  that  according  as  there  is 
more  or  less  of  this  salt.  I  have  made  twenty 
Other  experiments  on  this  drug,  which  I  shall 
not  relate  here,  because  they  produced  none  but 
common  colours,  and  which  may  be  easier  had 
from  ingredients  of  a  lower  price.  My  experi- 
ments  were  with  a  view  of  improving  the  red  of 
the  lacque,  and  the  method  I  have  here  laid 
down  to  extract  its  colouring  parts  answers  ex- 
tremely  well ;  the  m^ore  ingredients  that  are  dis- 
covered for  scarlet,  the  less  will  be  the  cost ; 
for,  although  these  experiments  made  on  cochi- 
neal,  lacque,  and  other  drugs  may  appear  use. 
less  to  some  dyers,  they  will  not  be  so  to  others 
^who  study  to  improve  this  art.* 

Reteijit  I32d.     0/ the  Red  of  Madder. 

THE  root  of  madder  is  the  only  part  of  this 
plant  which  is  used  in  dying-  This-  plant  may 
be  cultivated  in  the  United  States  of  America 
to  great  advantage ;  it  is  three  years  after  the 
first  root  is  set  in  the  ground  before  it  comes 
to  maturity,  or  the  ground  filled  with  roots  fit 
for  digging  or  breaking  up  ;  if  it  remains  in  the 
ground  longer  than  three  seasons,  there  will  be  a 
quantity  of  useless  roots  ;  they  may  be  placed 
foujr  feet  apart,  in  the  first  setting  in  the  ground, 
and  hoed  the  first  year  to  keep  it  clear  from 
weeds  ;  if  the  ground  has  a  deep  soil  it  will  be 
filled  with  small  roots  to  the  depth  of  three  feet ; 
it  yields  abundantly  ;  the  time  of  drying,  which 
is  in  autumn,  in  the  month  of  October,  or  the 
last  of  September,  spade  up  the  earth,  take  the 

*  The  colouring  parts  of  the  gum-lacque  may  be  extract- 
ed by  common  river  water,  by  makhig  it  a  little  more  than 
lukewarm,  and  mclosing  the  powdered  lacque  in  a  coarse 
woollen  bag. 


byer's  companion.  221 

roots  from  it^  assort  them  carefully,  and  wash 
them  clean  in  cold  water  and  lay  them  to  dry  for 
manufacturing.  The  small  bright  and  young 
roots  that  have  no  bark  nor  pith,  are  for  the  good 
or  grape-madder. 

Of  all  the  reds  this  is  the  most  lasting,  when 
it  is  put  on  a  cloth  or  stuff  that  is  throughly 
scoured,  then  prepared  with  the  salts  with  which 
it  is  to  be  boiled  two  or  three  hours,  without 
which,  this  red,  so  tenacious  after  the  prepara- 
tion of  tlie  subject,  would  scarcely  resist  more 
the  proofs  of  the  reds  than  any  other  ingredients 
of  the  false  dye.  This  is  a  proof  that  the  p-ores 
of  the  fibres  of  the  wool  ought  not  only  to  be 
well  scoured  from  the  yolk  or  unctuous  tran- 
spiration of  the  animal,  which  may  have  remain- 
ed, notwithstanding  the  scouring  of  the  wool  af- 
ter the  common  manner  with  water  and  urine  ; 
but  it  is  also  necessary,  that  these  same  pores  be 
plaistered  inwardly  w^ith  some  of  those  salts 
which  are  called  hard,  because  they  do  not  cal- 
cine in  the  air,  and  cannot  be  dissolved  by  rain 
water,  or  by  the  moisture  of  the  air  in  rainy 
weather*  Such  is,  as  has  been  said  before,  the^ 
white  crude  tartar,  the  red  and  the  crystal  of  tar- 
tar, of  which,  according  to  common  custom, 
about  a  fourth  is  put  into  the  preparing  liquor, 
with  two-thirds  or  three-fourths  of  allum. 

The  best  madder  roots  come  generally  from 
Zealand,  where  this  plant  is  cultivated  in  the 
islands  of  Tergoes,  Zerzee,  Sommerdyke,  and 
Thoolen.  That  from  the  first  of  these  islands  is 
esteemed  the  best  ;  the  soil  is  clay,  fat^  and 
somewhat  salt.  The  lands  that  are  deemed  the 
best  for  the  cultivation  of  this  plant  are  new 
lands,  that  only  served  for  pasture,  which  are  al^ 
ways  fresher  and  moister  than  others.  The 
Zealanders  are  beholden  to    the  refugees  of 


222  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

Flanders  for  the  cultivation  and  great  commerce 
of  this  root. 

It  is  known  in  trade  and  dying  under  the 
names  of  grape-madder,  bunch-madder,  &c.  It 
is  however  the  same  root ;  all  the  difference  in 
regard  to  its  quality  is,  that  the  one  kind  con- 
tains  pith  and  root,  and  the  other  has  the  small 
fibres  from  its  pricipal  root  adhering  to  it. 

Both  are  prepared  by  the  same  work,  which 
I  shall  not  relate  the  particulars  of  here,  as  it 
would  only  serve  to  lengthen  this  treatise  to  no 
purpose. 

They  choose  the  finest  roots  for  the  first  sort, 
drying  them  with  care,  grinding  them  and  sepa- 
rating the  rind  at  the  mill,  and  preserving  the 
middle  of  the  root  ground  in  hogsheads,  where 
it  remains  for  two  or  three  years ;  for  after  this 
time,  it  is  better  for  dying  than  it  would  have 
been  coming  from  the  mill ;  for  if  madder  w^as 
not  kept  close  after  this  manner,  the  air  would 
spoil  it,  and  the  colour  would  be  less  bright.  It 
is  <it  first  yellow,  but  it  reddens  and  grows  brown 
by  age  ;  the  best  is  of  a  saffron  colour,  in  hard 
lumps,  of  a  strong  smell,  an^i  yet  not  disagree- 
able. It  is  also  cultivated  about  Lisle  in  Flan- 
ders, and  several  other  places  of  the  kingdom, 
where  it  was  found  to  grow  spontaneously. 

The  madders  which  are  made  use  of  in  the 
Levant  and  in  India,  for  the  dying  of  cottons, 
are  somewhat  different  from  the  kinds  used  in 
Europe,  it  is  named  chat  on  the  coast  of  Coro- 
mandel.  This  plant  thus  called,  grows  abun- 
dantly in  the  woods  on  the  coast  of  Malabar, 
and  this  chat  is  the  wild  sort-  The  cultiv  ttd 
comes  from  Vasur  and  Tuccorin,  and  the  most 
esteemed  of  all  is  the  chat  of  Persia,  named 
dumas. 

T^  ey  also  gather  on  the  coast  of  Coromandel 
tthe  root  of  another  plant  called  nzy  de  chaye,  or 


DYER'S    COMPANION.  223 

root  of  colour,  and  ^vhich  was  thought  to  be  a 
kind  oirubm  ttnctorum,  but  is  the  root  of  a  kind 
of  gallium  flore  alho,  as  it  appeared  by  observa^ 
tions  Stilt  irom  India  in  1748.  It  has  a  long 
slender  root,  which  dyesiidotton  of  a  tolerable 
handsome  red,  when  it  has  received  all  the 
preparations  previous  to  the  d^-e. 

At  Kurder,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Smyrna^ 
andin  the  couniriesof  Akissar  and  of  Yordas, 
they  cuUivate  another  kind  of  madder,  which  is 
called  in  the  country  chioc-boya  ekme  hazala. 
This  of  all  the  madders  is  the  best  for  the  red 
dye,  by  the  proofs  that  have  been  made  of  it, 
and  far  more  esteemed  in  the  Levant  than  the 
finest  Zealand  madder  the  Dutch  bring  there. 
This  madder  so  much  vahied  is  called  bv  tiie 
modern  Greeks  lizari^  and  by  the  Ardhs/hiiot/ J^ 

There  is  another  kind  of  madder  in  Canada 
called  tyssa-voyana.  It  is  a  very  small  root, 
which  produces  pretty  near  the  same  effect  as 
the  European  madder. 

The  water  of  preparation  for  madder  red  is 
pretty  near  the  same  as  for  kermes,  that  is  com- 
posed of  alhim  and  tartar.  The  dyers  do  not 
agree  as  to  the  proportions  ;  bnt  the  best  appears 
to  be  four  ounces  of  allum  and  one  of  red  tartar 
to  each  povmd  of  spun  wool,  and  about  one- 
twelfth  part  of  sour  water,  and  let  the  wool  boil 
in  it  for  two  hours.  If  it  is  spun  wool,  leave  it 
for  seven  or  eight  days,  that  it  may  be  well 
imoistened  by  the  dissolution  of  these  salts  ;  and 
if  it  is  cloth,  finish  it  the  fourth  day. 

To  dye  wool  with  madder,  prepare  a  fresh 
liquor,  and  when  the  water  is  come  to  a  heat  to 

*  These  kinds  of  madders  give  brierhter  reds  than  the  best 
grape-madder  of  Zealand,  for  thev  are  dyed  in  the  air  arid 
not  in  a  stove*  'I'he  madder  of  Languedoc,  even  that  of 
Poitou,  succeeds  as  well  as  that  of  lizari,  when  it  is  dryed 
without  fire* 


224  APPENDIX  TO  THE 


bear  the  hand,  put  in  half  a  pound  of  the  finest 
gr:  pe-maddtr  for  each  pound  of  wool ;  let  it  be 
well  raked  and  mixed  in  the  copper  before  the 
wool  goes  in,  keep  the  wool  in  an  hour,  during ' 
which  time  it  must  ^^ot  boil.*  Shades  from 
madder  are  obtained  alter  the  manner  laid  down 
for  other  colours,  but  these  shades  are  little  used, 
except  in  a  mixture  of  several  colours. 

When  severed  pieces  of  cloth  are  to  be  dyed 
at  once  in  madder  red,  the  operation  is  the  same, 
as  you  may  see  in  the  29th  receipt  in  the  pre- 
ceding for^  red  with  madder,  only  augmenting 
the  ingredients  in  proportion  ;  and  let  it  be  re- 
marked that  in  small  operations  the  quantity  of 
ingredients  must  be  somewhat  greater  than  in 
great,  not  only  in  madder  red,  but  in  all  other 
colours. 

These  reds  are  never  so  beautiful  as  those  of 
the  kermes,  and  much  less  so  than  those  of  the 
lacque  or  cochineal,  but  they  cost  less,  and  are 
made  use  of  for  common  stuffs  whose  low  prices 
would  not  allow  a  dearer  dye.  Most  of  the  reds 
for  the  army  are  of  madder,  saddened  with  archil 
or  brazil,  (though  these  drugs  be  of  the  safe  dye) 
to  make  tliem  finer,  and  more  on  the  velvet, 
which  perfection  could  not  be  procured  to  them 
even  witli  cochineed,  without  considerably  aug- 
menting the  price. 

I  have  already  said  that  rnadder  put  on  stuffs 
not  being  prepared  to  receive  it  by  the  allum 
and  tartar- water,  did  in  fact  give  its  red  colour, 
but  that  which  it  dyed  was  blotted  and  not  last, 
ing,  it  is  therefore  the  salts  that  secure  the  dye  ; 
this  is  common  to  all  other  colours  red  or  yellow, 
which  cannot  be  made  without  a  preparing  li- 
quor. Now  the  question  is,  whether  these  act 
by  taking  off  the  remains  of  tlie  oily  and  fat 

^  If  madder  is  boiled,  its  red  becomes  obscure,  and  of  a 
brick  colour. 


I 


HYER^S    COMPANION.  225 

transpiration  of  the  sheep,  or  whether  that  of  the 
two  salts,  particularly  that  which  even  cannot 
be  carried  by  luke-warm  water,  remains  to 
catch,  seize  and  cement  the  colouring  atom, 
opened  or  dilated  by  the  heat  of  water  to  receive 
it,  and  contracted  by  the  cold  to  retain  it. 

To  determine  which,  use  any  alkaline  salts, 
such  as  potash,  the  clarified  lays  of  oak-ashes, 
or  any  other  pure  lixivial  salt  instead  of  allum 
and  tartar,  put  in  a  due  proportion  so  as  not  to 
dissolve  the  wool,  and  afterwards  dip  the  stuff 
in  madder  liquor.  This  stuff  will  come  out 
coloured,  but  will  not  last,  even  boiling  water 
will  carry  off  three- fourths  of  the  colour.  Now 
it  cannot  be  said  that  a  fixed  alkaline  salt  is  un- 
fit to  extract  from  the  pores  of  the  wool  the 
yolk  or  fat  of  the  sheep,  since  lixivial  salts  are 
used  vvith  success  in  several  cases,  to  take  the 
grease  out  of  stufL  of  what  kind  soever  they  be, 
which  water  alone  could  not  take  off.  It  is  also 
Well  known,  that  with  fats  foreign  to  the  stuff, 
and  an  alkaline  salt,  a  kind  of  soap  is  formed 
which  water  easily  carries  off. 

Again,  take  a  piece  of  stuff  dyed  in  madder 
red,  according  to  the  usual  method,  boil  it  some 
time  in  a  solution  of  fixed  alkaline  salts,  a  small 
quantity  will  also  destroy  the  colour,  for  the 
fixed  alkali,  attacking  the  small  atoms  of  the 
crystal  of  tartar,  or  crude  tartar,  which  lines  the 
pores  of  the  wool,  forms  a  soluble  tartar,  v.hich 
water  dissolves  very  easily,  and  consequently 
the  pores  being  opened  in  the  hot  water  of  the 
experiment,  the  colouring  atom  came  out  with 
the  saline  atom  that  sheathed  it. 

This  stuff  being  washed  in  water,  the  remain- 
ing red  colour  is  diluted,  and  a  colour  half  brown 
and  h  ilf  dirty  remains.  If  instead  of  an  alkaline 
salt,  soap  is  substituted,  (which  is  an  alkaline,  salt, 
mitigated  by  oil)  and  another  piece  of  cloth  dyed 
U2 


226  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

also  in  madder,  be  l^oiled  for  a  few  minutes,  the 
red  vill  becojnc  finer,  because  the  alkali  which 
is  in  the  soap  being  sheathed  with  oil,  it  could 
not  attack  the  vegetable  acid,  and  the  boiling 
only  Carried  off  the  c^>l()uring  parts  ill  stuck  to- 
gether, and  their  numbers  dirninishing,  what 
remains  must  app'/ar  deeper  or  clearer. 

I  must  also  add,  for  further  proof  of  the 
actual  existence  of  salts  in  the  pores  of  a  stuff 
prepared  with  allum  and  tartar,  befre  dying  it 
with  madder,  that  more  (>r  less  tartar  gives  an 
infinite  v<iriety  of  shades  with  this  root  only; 
for  if  the  qudntity  of  allum  be  diminished,  and 
that  of  the  tartar  augmented,  a  cinnamon  will 
be  had,  and  even  if  nothing  but  tartar  alone 
be  put  into  the  liquor,  the  red  is  lost,  and  a 
d<x^p  cinnamon  or  brown  root  colour  is  obtain, 
ed,  though  of  a  very  good  dye  ;  for  the  crude 
tartar,  which  is  an  acid  salt,  has  so  much  dis- 
s<3lved  the  part  which  should  have  produced 
the  red  colour,  that  there  only  remained  a  very 
small  qnantitv,  with  the  ligneous  fibres  of  the 
root,  which,  like  all  other  common  roots,  does 
then  yield  but  a  brown  colour,  more  or  less 
deep  according  to  the  quantity  used-  I  have 
already  proved  that  the  acid  which  brightens 
the  red,  dissolves  them  if  too  much  is  used, 
and  divides  them  into  particles  so  extremely 
minutcy  that  they  are  not  perceptible. 

If  in  the  place  of  tartar,  any  salt  which  is 
^sily  diss=  Ived  be  put  with  the  allum  in  the  li- 
quor, to  prepare  the  stuff  for  the  madder  dye, 
such  as  SB  It  petre,  the  greater  part  of  the  mad- 
der red  becomes  useless,  it  disappears,  or  does 
not  stick  on,  and  nothing  is  got  but  a^  very 
bright  cinnamon,  which  will  not  sufficiently 
star)d  the  proof,  because  the  two  salts  used  in 
the  pr.  paring  liquor  are  not  of  the  hardness  of 
fhe  tartar. 


dyer's  companion*  227 

Volatile  urinous  alkalis  which  are  obtained 
from  certain  plants,  such  as  the  perilia,  the  ar- 
chil of  the  Canaries,  and  other  mosses  or  li- 
chens, destroy  also  the  madder  red,  but  at  the 
same  time  communicate  another  to  it,  for  on 
experiment,  madder  prepared  after  the  maniicr 
of  archil  with  fermented  urine  and  quick  lime, 
produced  only  nut  colours,  but  which  neverthe- 
less are  lasting  ;  because  there  entered  into  the 
liquor  only  the  little  portion  of  urinous  vola- 
tile that  moistened  the  madder  which  the  boil- 
ing was  sufficient  to  evaporate,  and  besides, 
the  cloth  was  sufficiently  furnished  with  the 
salts  of  the  liquor  made  as  usual,  to  retain  the 
colouring  parts  of  the  dye. 

When  a  pure  red,  that  for  cochineal  an  ex- 
ample, is  laid  upon  a  cloth  first  dyed  in  blue, . 
and  afterwards  prepared  with  the  liquor  of  tar- 
tar, and  allum  to  receive  and  retain  this  red,  a 
purple  or  violet  is  produced  according  to  the 
quantity  of  blue  or  red.  The  red  of  madder 
has  not  this  effect,  for  it  is  not  a  pure  red  Uke 
that  of  the  cochineal,  and  as  I  said  above,  it  is 
altered  by  the  brown  ligneous  fibres  of  its  root, 
and  makes  on  the  blue  a  chesnut  colcur,  more 
or  less  deep  according  to  the  preceding  intensi- 
ty of  the  blue  first  laid  on.  If  this  chesnut  co- 
lour is  wanted  to  have  purple  cast,  a  little  cochi- 
neal must  be  added. 

In  order  to  avoid  this  brown  of  the  root,  the 
dyers  who  make  the  best  reds  of  madder  take 
great  heed  to  use  the  liquor  of  madder  a  little 
more  than  luke-vvarm  ;  the  madder  tarnishes 
considerably  by  the  heat  of  the  water,  extract- 
ing the  particles  u  hich  dye  brown,  and  unite 
themselves  with  the  red. 

This  inconveniency  might  be  remedied,  if  at 
the»time  that  the  madder  root  is  fresh  a  means 
could  be  found  to  separate  from  the  rest  of  this 


228  APPENDIX    TO    THE 

root  the  red  circle  which  is  underneath  its 
brown  pehcle,  and  which  surrounds  the  mid- 
dle pith  ;  but  this  work  would  augment  its 
price,  and  even  then  it  would  not  afford  so 
good  a  red  as  cochineal.  However,  it  might 
be  attempted  to  dye  cottons  red,  whose  price 
might  bt-ar  the  expenses  of  this  preparation* 

Madder  being  of  all  ingredients  the  cheapest 
of  any  that  dye  red  and  of  the  good  dye,  it  is 
mixt  with  otliers  to  diminish  the  price.  It  is 
with  madder  and  kermes  that  the  bastard  scar- 
lets  of  grain  are  dyed,  otherwise  called  half- 
grain  scarlets,  and  with  madder  and  cochineal 
the  half-common  scarlets,  and  the  half-crimsons 
are  made. 

To  make  the  half. grain  scarlet,  the  water 
of  preparation,  and  all  the  rest  of  the  operation 
is  to  be  performed  after  the  same  manner  as 
scarlet  made  of  the  grain  of  kermes,  or  the 
common  Venetian,  only  the  second  liquor  is 
composed  of  half  kermes  and  half  grape-mad- 
der. 

For  the  half-scarlet  and  flame-colour,  the 
composition  and  preparation  is  as  usual,  noth- 
ing  but  pure  cochineal  being  put  in,  but  in 
the  reddening,  half  cochineal  and  half  madder 
is  used  :  here  also  the  sylvestremay  be  made  use 
of,  for  after  having  made  the  pr  paration  with 
cochineal,  for  reddening,  use  half  a  pound  of 
cochineal,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sylvestrei  and 
one  pound  of  madder  instead  of  cochineal  alone. 

That  the  wool  and  stuffs  may  be  dyed  as 
equally  as  possible*  it  is  necessary  that  the  two 
kinds  of  cochineal  be  well  rubbed  or  sifted, 
as  also  the  madder,  with  which  they  must  be 
well  incorporated  before  they  are  put  into  the 
liquor.  This  must  be  observed  in  all  colours 
where  several  ingredients  are  mixt  together. 
This  half-scarlet  is  finished  jike  the  common, 

/ 


I 


229 

scarlet,  and  it  may  be  saddened  after  the  same 
manner,  either  with  boiling  water  or  allum. 

The  half-crimson  is  made  like  the  common 
crimson,  only  using  half  madder,  and  half  cochi- 
neal, the  cochineal  sylvestre  may  be  used 
here  also,  observing  only  to  retrench  half  of 
the  common  cochineal,  and  to  replace  it  with 
three  times  as  much  of  the  sylvestre.  if  a 
greater  quantity  of  the  sylvestre  was  used,  and 
more  of  the  other  taken  oiF,  the  colour  would 
not  be  so  fine.  Various  shades  may  be  pro- 
duced by  augmenting  or  lessening  the  madder 
or  cochineal. 

Keceilit  133cf.     For  Crumon. 

CRIMSON,  as  I  have  already  observed,  is 
the  natural  colour  of  the  cochineal,  or  rather, 
that  which  it^gives  to  wool  boiled  with  allum 
and  tartar,  which  is  the  usual  water  of  prepara- 
tion  for  almost  all  colours.^  This  is  the  methocj 
which  is  commonly  practised  for  spun  wool ; 
it  is  almost  the  same  for  cloths,  as  will  be  seen 
hereafter. 

For  each  pound  of  wool,  two  ounces  and  a 
half  of  allum,  and  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  white 
tartar,  are  put  into  the  copper.  When  the 
whole  boils,  the  wool  is  put  in,  well  stirred,  and 
left  to  boil  for  tw^o  hours  ;  it  is  afterwards  taken 
Gilt  slightly  wrung,  put  into  a  bag,  and  left  thus 
with  its  water,  as  for  the  scarlet  in  grain,  and  for 
all  other  colours. 

For  the  dye  a  fresh  liquor  is  made,  in  which 
three- fourths  of  an  ounce  of  cochineal  is  added 
for  each  pound  of  wool.  When  the  liquor  is  lit- 
tie  more  than  luke- warm,  the  cochineal  is  put  in, 
and  when  it  begins  to  boil,  the  wool  is  cast  in, 
which  is  to  be  w^ell  stirred  with  sticks ;  it  is  to 
remain  thus  for  an  hour  ;  when  taken  out, 
wrung  and  washed. 


230  APPENDrX  TO  THE 

If  degrees  of  shades  are  required,  (whose 
names  are  merely  arbitrary)  pr  )cer^d,  as  has 
been  already  related  for  the  scarlet,  using  but 
half  the  cochineal  at  first,  and  beginning  with  tne 
lightest. 

The  beauty  of  crimson  consists  in  its  border- 
ing as  much  as  possible  on  the  grisdelin,  a  co- 
lour  between  a  grey  and  a  violet.  I  made  sever- 
al  trials  to  bring  crimson  to  a  higher  p(  rfecMon 
than  most  dyers  have  hitherto  done,  and  indeed 
I  succeeded  so  as  to  make  it  as  fine  as  the 
false  crimson,  which  is  always  brighter  than  the 
fine. 

This  is  the  principle  on  which  I  worked.  As 
all  alkvilis  sadden  cocliineal,  I  tried  soap,  barilla, 
potash,  pearlabh;  all  these  salts  brought  the 
crimson  to  the  shade  I  wanted,  but  at  the  same 
time,  they  tarnisihed  and  diminished  its  bright- 
ness. I  then  bethought  myself  to  make  use  of 
volatile  alkalis,  and  I  found  that  the  volatile 
spirit  of  salt  ammoniac  produced  a  very  good  ef- 
fect ;  but  this  spirit  instantly  evaporated,  and  a 
pretty  considerable  quantity  w^as  used  in  the 
liquor,  which  greatly  augmented  the  price  of  the 
dye. 

I  then  had  recourse  to  another  expedient  which 
succeeded  better,  the  expense  of  which  is  trifling. 
This  was  to  make  the  volatile  alkali  of  the  salt 
ammoniac  enter  into  the  liquor,  at  the  very  in- 
stant that  it  comes  out  of  its  basis ;  and  to  effect 
this,  after  my  crimson  was  made  after  the  usual 
manner,  I  passed  through  a  fresh  liquor,  in  which 
I  had  dissolved  a  little  of  the  salt  ammoniac. 
As  soon  as  the  liquor  was  a  little  more  than  luke- 
warm, I  flung  in  as  much  potash  as  I  had  before 
of  salt  ammoniac,  and  my  wool  immediately 
took  a  very  brilliant  colour. 

This  method  even  spares  the  cochineal ;  for 
this  new  liquor  makes  it  rise,  and  then  less  may 


dyer's  comp'anioij.  231 

be  used  than  in  the  common  process ;  but  the 
greatest  part  of  dyers,  even  the^  most  eminent, 
sadden  their  crimsons  with  archil,  a  drug  of  the 
false  dye. 

Very  beautiful  crimsons  are  also  made  by 
boiling  the  wool  as  for  the  common  scarlet,  ard 
then  boiling  it  in  a  second  liquor,  with  two 
ounces  of  allum  and  one  ounce  of  tartar,  for  each, 
pound  of  wool,  leaving  it  one  hour  in  the  liquor. 
A  fresh  liquor  is  then  prepared,  in  which  six 
drachms  of  cochineal  is  put  for  every  pound  of 
wool.  After  it  has  remained  an  hour  in  this  li. 
quor,  it  is  taken  out,  and  passed  immediately 
through  a  liquor  of  barilla  and  salt  ammoniac. 
By  this  method,  gradations  of  very  beautifuj 
crimson  shades  are  made  by  diminishing  the 
quantity  of  the  cochineal.  It  is  to  be  «>bserved, 
that  in  this  process  there  are  but  six  drachms  of 
cochineal  to  dye  each  pound  of  wool,  because  in 
the  first  liquor  a  drachm  and  a  half  of  cochineal 
is  used  for  each  pound.  It  is  also  necessary  to 
remark,  that,  to  sadden  these  crimsons,  the  li- 
quor of  the  alkaline  salt  and  salt  ammoniac  be 
not  rnade  too  hot,  because  the  separation  of  the 
volatile  spirit  of  this  last  salt  would  be  too  quick, 
and  the  crystal  of  tartar  of  the  first  liquor  would 
lose  its  proper  effect  by  being  changed,  as  I 
have  already  said  into  a  soluble  tartar. 

The  same  operation  may  be  done  by  using 
one  part  of  the  cochineal  sylvestre  instead  of  the 
iine  cochineal,  and  thexolour  is  not  less  beauti- 
fill,  for  commonly  four  parts  of  sylvestre  have 
not  more  effect  in  dying  than  one  part  of  fine 
cochineal.  The  sylvestre  may  also  be  used  in 
dying  scarle  ,  but  with  great  precaution  ;  it 
should  only  be  used  in  bastard  scarlets  and  half- 
crimsons.  I  shall  speak  of  this  when  I  treat  of 
these  colours  in  particular. 

When  a  scarlet  is  spotted  or  spoiled  in  the 


233  APPENDIX    TO    THE 

operation  by  some  unforeseen  accident,  or  even 
when  the  dye  has  failed,  the  common  remedy  is 
to  make  it  a  crimson,  and  for  that  purpose,  it 
is  dipt  in  a  liquor  where  about  two  pounds  of 
allum  are  added  for  each  hundred  weight  of 
wool.  It  is  immediately  plunged  in  this  liquor, 
and  left  there  until  it  has  acquired  the  shade  of 
the  crimson  desired. 

Receifit  134:'/i.    For  Languedoc  Crimson. 

I  shall  now  shew  the  method  they  follow  in 
Languedoc  to  make  a  very  beautiful  sort  of 
crimson,  or  the  cloths  exported  to  the  Levant, 
but  which  is  not  so  much  saddened  as  that 
which  I  have  just  spoken  of,  and  which  resem- 
bles much  more  the  Venetian  scarlet.  For  five 
pieces  of  cloth,  the  pieces  are  25  yards  when  mill, 
ed  of  broad  cloth  one  and  a  half  yards  wide  the 
liquor  is  prepared  as  usual,  putting  bran  if  ne- 
cessary. When  it  is  more  than  lukewarm,  ten 
pounds  of  sea-salt  are  put,  instead  of  crystal  of 
tartar,  and  when  it  is  ready  to  boil,  twenty-seven 
pounds  of  the  scarlet  composition,  made  after 
the  manner  of  carcassine  already  described,  are 
poured  in,  and  without  adding  cochineal  the 
cloth  is  passed  through  this  liquor  for  two 
hours,  keeping  it  always  turning  with  the  wynch, 
and  continually  boiling.  It  is  afterwards  taken 
out,  aired  and  washed  ;  then  a  fresh  liquor  is 
made,  with  eight  pounds  and  three-quarters  of 
cochineal  powdered  and  sifted,  and  when  it  is 
ready  to  boil,  twenty-one  pounds  of  composi- 
tion are  added ;  the  cloth  is  boiled  for  three 
quarters  of  an  hour  with  the  common  precau- 
tions, after  which  it  is  taken  out,  aired  and  wash- 
ed :  It  is  of  a  very  fine  crimson,  but  very  little 
saddened  ;  if  it  is  required  to  be  more  sad^len. 
ed,  a  greater  quantity  of  allum  is  put  into  the 


DYER'S   COMFANiOIsT.  233 

first  liquor  of  preparation,  and  in  the  second 
less  of  the  composition,  the  sea- salt  is  also 
added  to  this  second  liquor  ;  a  little  practice  in 
this  method  will  soon  teach  the  dyer  to  make 
all  the  shades  that  can  properly  be  derived  from: 
crimson. 

Whenever  cochineal  has  been  used,  there  is 
found  at  the  bottom  of  the  reddening  liquor  a 
quantity  of  very  brown  sediment,  which  is 
flung  away  with  the  liquor  as  useless.  I  exam- 
ined it  and  foimd,  that  the  liquor  for  the  red- 
dening of  scarlet  contained  a  precipitated  cahc 
of  tin  :  I  united  this  metal  with  a  great  di^eal  of 
trouble;  the  remaining  parts  of  this  sediment 
are  the  dross  of  the  white  tartar,  or  of  the  cream, 
of  tartar,  united  with  the  gross  parts  of  the  bo- 
dies of  the  cochineal,  which  is,  as  has  already 
been  said,  a  small  insect.  I  washed  tliese  little 
animal  parts  in  cold  w^ater,  and,  by  shaking 
this  v/ater,  I  collected,  with  a  small  sieve,  what 
the  agitation  caused  to  raise  on  the  surface. 

After  this  manner  I  separated  these  light 
parts  from  the  earthy  and  metallic  ;  I  dried 
them  separately,  then  levigated  them  with 
equal  weight  of  fresh  crystal  of  tartar  ;  I  boiL 
ed  a  portion  with  a  little  allum,  and  put  in  a 
pattern  of  white  cloth,  which  boiled  for  three 
lauarters  of  an  hour,  at  the  end  of  which  it  was 
eyed  of  a  very  beautiful  crimson. 

This  experiment  having  convinced  me,  that 
by  powdering  and  sifting  the  cochineal  as  is 
commonly  practised,  all  the  profit  that  might 
be  extracted  from  this  dear  drug  is  not  obtain- 
ed, I  thought  proper  to  communicate  this  dis- 
Govery  to  tlie  dyers,  that  they  might  avail  them^ 
selves  of  it  by  the  method  following.  - 

^  Take  one  ounce  of  cochineal  powdered  and 
sifted  as  usual ;  mix  with  it  a  quarter  of  it^, 
Aveight  of  very  white  creanx  of  tartar  very  crys^ 

X  ■ 


234  APPENDIX   TO  THE 

taline  and  very  airy  ;  put  the  whole  on  a  hard 
levigating  stone,  and  levigate  this  mixture  till  it 
is  reduced  to  an  impalpable  powder  ;  make  use 
of  this  cochineal^  thus  prepared  in  the  liquor, 
and  in  the  reddening,  subtracting  from  the  cream 
of  tartar,  which  is  to  be  used  in  the  liquor,  the 
small  quantity  before  used  wdth  the  cochineal. 
What  is  put  to  the  reddening,  although  mixed 
with  a  fourth  of  the  same  salt,  does  not  preju- 
dice its  colour,  it  even  appeared  to  me  that  it 
w^as  more  sdid.  Those  that  will  follow  this 
method  Hvill  find  that  there  is  about  a  fourth 
more  profit  to  be  obtained  by  it. 

Recci/iC  I35t/i.      The  J\atural  Crimson  in  Grain, 

In  proportion  for  every  pound  of  cloth  or 
other  things,  take  two  ounces  of  tartar  pure,  and 
two  ounces  of  allum  ;  boil  them  with  the  goods 
an  hour  and  a  half ;  then  rince  the  goods  very 
well  from  the  boiling.  The  kettle  must  be  fill- 
ed again  with  clear  water  and  a  few  handfuls  of 
bran  put  in,  in  order  to  take  out  the  filth  of  the 
water,  as  well  as  to  soften  it.  Scum  the  scurf 
off  when  it  begins  to  boil,  and  put  in  an  ounce 
of  well  powdered  grain,  with  one  drachm  of  red 
arsenic  and  one  spoonful  of  burnt  wine  lees  ; 
this  gives  a  pretty  lustre  ;  then  wash  and  rince 
it  well,  and  you  have  most  beautiful  colour. 

Jlt'ceiiit  I26tli,  Scarlet;  of  the  dying  of  Jiock  or  goat*^ 
hair. 

"  ^.  are  two  preparations  very  different 

other  in  the  dying  of  flock  :  the 

TWT^H  '^^^^''  ^^^  belongs  to  the  great 

r    ^"^Vie  ^-cond  is  to  dissolve  it  and 

one  fr^^  ..^^^^^^  Mngs  to  the  lesser  dye. 

^''\  'LTdv?  the  ^  formerly  permitted 

^^\rjie  of  It';  Sris  be.  '  n'  on  pxcount  of 

Thed^g^w^^^^ 

J  *e  gic&  dye.  but  was  t«- 


DYER'S    COMPANION.  25^5 

Tts  being  extracted  from  madder,  than  by  any 
experiment  that  had  been  made  concerning  its 
durability.  I  tried  it  with  great  attention,  and 
found  it  beyond  any  doubt  that  there  is  no  co- 
lour that  resists  the  air  less.  It  is  certainly  for 
this  reason  that  it  was  restrained  to  the  lesser 
dye  in  the  new  regulation  of  France  in  1737. 
Yet,  as  by  the  same  regulation,  it  is  not  permit- 
ted to  the  dyers  of  the  lesser  dye  to  use  madder, 
Tior  even  to  keep  it  in  their  houses  ;  it  has  been 
enacted,  that  only  the  dyers  of  the  great  dye 
should  be  suffered  to  madder  llock,^  and  those 
of  the  lesser  dye  to  dissolve  and  use  it. 

To  madder  the  flock  or  goat's  hair,  four 
pounds  of  either  of  them  is  cut  and  well  sepa- 
rated, that  the  dye  may  penetrate  the  better. 
It  is  boiled  two  hours  in  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  sour  water  ;  then  it  is  drained  for  an  hour, 
and  put  into  a  middling  copper,  half  filled 
with  water,  with  four  pounds  of  roach  allum,^ 
two  pounds  of  red  tartar,  and  one  pound  of 
madder.  The  whole  is  boiled  for  six  hours, 
putting  in  hot  water  as  the  liquor  wastes  ;  it  is 
left  all  night  and  next  day  in  this  liquor ;  the 
third  day  it  is  taken  out  and  drained  in  a  bask- 
et. Some  dyers  let  it  remain  eight  days,  but 
it  often  happens  that  l^y  this  delay  in  a  copper 
vessel  it  is  tarnished  by  the  liquors  corroding 
a  part  of  the  copper ;  a  middling  copper  is 
then  filled  to  the  two-thirds  with  half  sour  wa- 
ter, and  half  common  water  and  when  the  li- 
quor is  ready  to  boil,  eight  pounds  of  madder, 
well  cut  and  crushed  between  the  hands,  is  ad- 
ded.  When  the  markler  is  well  mixed  in  the 
liquor,  four  pounds  of  flock  or  hair  is  put  in  and 
boiled  for  six  hours  ;  it  is  then  well  \i ashed,  and 
the  next  day  it  is  maddered  a  second  time  after 
the  same  nianner,  only  putting  in  four  pounds 
of  madder  instead  of  eight,  which  were  befor(^ 


-236  APPENDIX:  TO   THi; 

used.  After  this  second  maddermg,  it  is  wellv 
^vashed  and  dried  ;  it  is  tlien  almost  black  and 
lit  for  use. 

It  appears  by  this  operation,  that  four  pounds 
of  flock  or  hair  is  loaded  with  thirteen  pounds 
of  the  d3'e^  of  madder,  j'et  there  still  remains 
some  dye  in  the  liquor,  which  is  then  called  an 
old  maddering,  and  which  is  preser\ed  for  use 
on  certain  occasions,  as  in  tobacco,  cinnamon 
colour,  and  several  others. 

When  the  flock  is  t' .-s  maddered  by  tlie  dyer 

of  the  great  dye  he  sells  it  to  dj^rs  of  the  lesser, 

who  have  then  the  Hl^erty  to  dissolve  and  use 

.t ;  this  is  the  common  method,  v/hich  has  ma- 

iv  diiSculties,  and  is  known  but  to  few  dyei-s, 

Jadder  is  hereby  made  fine. 

About  half  an  hour  after  seven  in  tlie  morn^ 

.^   six  pails  full  of  clear  v/ater  are  put  into 

a  middling  copper,  and  when  the  water  is  luke- 

vrarm,  five  pounds  of  pearlash  are  put  in:  the 

hole  is  boiled  till    eleven,    and   the    liquor 

.i  then  considerably  diminished,  so  as  to  be 

held  in  a  lesser  copper,  into  which  it  is  emptied, 

obsen'ing"  first  to  let  the  dregs  of  the  pearlash 

subside,  that  none  but  the  clear  may  be  used. 

A  p?jl  full  of  this  liquor  is  afterwards  put 
nro  the  middling  copper,  having  first  scoured 
it  well,  and  a  lirtle  fire  made  under  it ;  the  four 
pounds  of  maddered  flock  are  scattered  in  by 
degrees,  and  at  the  same  time  a  little  of  the 
lukewarm  and  saline  liquor  of  the  small  copper 
is  added  to  keep  down  the  boiling,  which  rises 
from  time  to  time  to  the  top  of  the  copper,  in 
which  the  operation  is  performing. 

When  all  the  flock  and  the  liquorof  the  little 
copper  are  put  into  the  middling  one,  a  pail  full 
of  clear  w  ater  is  put  on  the  dregs  of  the  pearlash 
remaining  in  the  little  copper>  This  water 
serves  to  fill  the  middling  one  as  the  liquor  in  ij 


dyer's  companiobt.  237 

evtiporates.    All  this  flock  melts,  or  is  dissolved 
by  the  action  of  the  pearlash,  and  after  the  first 
half  hour,  not  the  least  hair  is  to  be  perceived. 
The  liquor  is  then  of  a  very  deep  red.     The 
whole  is  then  boiled  without  any  addition,  till 
three  in  the  afternoon,  that  the  whole  dissolution 
of  the  flocks  may  be  the  more  exactly  perform- 
ed.    Then  a  stick  is  placed  upon  the  copper, 
and  upon  this  stick  is  placed  a  pail  of  fermented 
urine,  in  which  pail  a  small  hole  has  been  pre- 
viously  made  towards  its  lower  part,  and  a  lit- 
tle straw  put  into  it,  that  the  urine  may  very 
slowly  run  into  the  copper  ;  whilst  it  is  running, 
the  liquor  is  made  to  boil  strongly,  and  this 
urine  makes  good  what  may  be  lost  by  evapora- 
tion.     This  operation  continues  five  hours,  dur- 
ing which  time  three  pails  full  of  urine  are  dis- 
charged into  the  copper,  being  made  to  run  fas- 
ter when  the  boil  is  stronger,  than  when  moder- 
ate.    It  is  here  to  be  observed,  that,  on  account 
of  the  small  quantity  of  flock  in  the  experiment 
which  I  lay  down  here,  five  pounds  only   of 
pearlash  are  ordered  ;  for  when  thirty  pounds  of 
flock  are  dissolved  at  one  time  which  is  the 
common  custom  of  the  French  dyers,  they  put 
twelve  ounces  of  pearlash  to  each  pound  offlock. 
During  the  whole  time  of  this  operation,  a 
strong  volatile  smell  of  urine  is  emitted,   and 
there  swims  on  the  surface  of  the  liquor  a  brown 
scum,  but  much  more  so  after  the  addition  of 
the  urine.     The  liquor  is  known  to  be  suffi- 
ciently done  when  this  rises  no  more,  and  that  the 
boil  rises  but  gently,  that  is  what  happened  to 
the  operation  now  related,  at  eight  in  the  evening. 
The  fire  is  then  raked  out,  the  copper  covered? 
and  thus  left  to  the  next  day.     Patterns  had 
been  taken  at  different   times  of  the  colours 
of  the  liquor  from  three  to  eight  in  the  evening, 
by  dipping  in  small  pieces  of  paper  :  the  first 
X2 


23S  APPENDIX  TO  TH^ 


^ 


were  very  brown,  and  they  became  continually 
lighter,  and  they  united  themselves  more  and 
m(jre,  in  proportion  as  the  vtjlatile  part  of  the 
urine  acted  on  the  colouring  parti  of  the  liquor. 

Nothing  now  remained  but  to  dye  the  wool 
in  the  liquor  thus  prepared,  and  vvhich  is  called 
melting  of  flock  ;  this  is  the  easiest  work  be- 
longing to  the  dyer.  A  quarter  of  an  hour  be- 
fore  the  dying  is  begun,  a  little  piece  of  very 
clean  roach  allum  is  put  in,  and  the  copper  is 
well  raked  to  melt  it.  As  this  liquor  which  was 
in  the  middling  copper  had  been  covered  the 
whole  night,  and  the  fire  had  not  been  put  out, 
the  liquor  was  still  so  hot  as  not  to  suffer  the 
hand-  The  clearest  was  taken  out  and  brought 
into  a  small  copper,  with  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  luke  vv^arm  water,  some  wool  dyed  yellow 
with  weld  was  dipped  in  it ;  it  immediately  be- 
came of  a  fine  orange,  bordering  on  the  name 
colour,  that  is  of  the  colour  called  nacaret^  and^ 
known  to  the  dyers  by  the  name  of  nacaret  of 
flock ^  because  it  is  commonly  made  with  melted 
flock. 

Tvyenty  hanks  of  white  wool  were  dipped  one 
after  the  other  in  the  same  liquor,  beginning  by 
those  that  were  to  have  the  deepest  ground,  and 
leaving  them  longer  or  shorter  in  the  liquor  ac- 
cording to  the  shade  required.  An  assortment 
•was  made  after  this  manner  from  the  nacaret,  or 
bright  orange  red,  to  the  cherry  colour.  It 
ought  to  be  observed,  that  in  proportion  as  the 
liquor  was  consumed,  fresh  was  taken  from  the 
middle  sized  copper,  great  care  being  taken  not 
to  stir  the  sediment  at  the  bottom  ;  a  little  fire 
was  also  kept  under  the  small  copper,  to  keep 
the  liquor  always  in  the  same  degree  of  heat. 
The  wool  is  thus  dipped  until  the  whole  liquor 
is  used,  and  all  the  colour  drawn  out.^  But  the 
lighter  colours  could  not  be  dyed  in  it;  fon 


DYER'S   COMPANION.  235 

when  the  colour  of  the  liquor  is  once  \veakened< 
as  it  ought  to  be  for  these  colours,  it  is  generally 
loaded  with  filth,  which  would  take  off  the 
brightness  required  in  these  shades. 

The  following  is  the  method  of  making  shades 
lighter  than  the  cherry  colour.  A  copper  is 
liiled  with  clear  water,  and  five  or  six  hai:iks  of 
wool  dyed  of  the  deepest  dye  from  the  flock, 
that  is,  from  the  shade  that  immediately  follows 
the  nacaret,  are  put  in.  As  soon  as  the  water 
boils,  it  takes  out  all  the  colour  the  wool  had, 
and  it  is  in  this  fresh  liquor  that  the  other  wool 
that  is  to  be  dyed  is  dipped,  from  the  cherry  co- 
lour to  the  palest  flesh  colour,  observing  always 
to  begin  by  the  deepest  shades. 

Most  of  the  dyers  who  do  not  know  how  to 
melt  the  flock,  or  who  will  not  give  themselves 
that  trouble,  buy  some  pounds  of  this  scarlet  of 
flock,  which  they  use  after  this  manner,  to  make 
all  the  lighter  shades,  which,  as  has  been  said, 
is  done  with  much  ease.  This  operation  shows 
what  little  dependance  can  be  put  on  the  solidi- 
ty of  a  colour  that  passes  so  quickly  in  boiling 
water.  And  in  fiict,  it  is  one  of  the  worst  co- 
lours there  is  in  dying,  and  on  that  account  the 
new  regulation  has  taken  it  from  the  great  dye, 
and  permits  in  the  lesser  for  the  reason  above 
mentioned. 

Thus  a  very  bad  colour  may  be  had  from  an 
ingredient  which,  of  all  those  that  are  used  in 
d\ing,  is  perhaps  the  best  and  the  most  dura- 
ble ;  yet  when  this  hair,  dyed  with  all  the  ne- 
cessary precautions  to  insure  the  colour  as  much 
as  possible,  comes  to  be  dissolved  or  melted  in 
a  liquor  of  pearlash,  its  colour,  by  acquiring  a 
new  lustre,  loses  all  its  sohdity,  and  can  only  be 
ranked  in  the  number  of  the  falsest  dyes. 

It  may  appear  that  the  little  solidity  of  this 
Colour  proceeded  from  the  wool  having  no  pre- 


240  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

paration,  and  retaining  no  salt  before  its  being 
dipped  in  the  dissolved  flock  ;  but  I  found  that 
this  was  not  the  cause  ;  for  I  dipped  in  this  li- 
quor wool  boiled  as  usual,  and  other  wool  dif- 
ferently prepared,  without  finding  that  the  colour 
of  the  latter  had  acquired  any  more  solidity  ; 
the  lustre  was  less,  that  is,  it  came  out  more 
saddened  than  the  wool  that  had  been  dyed  in 
it  without  any  preparation. 

Though  I  have  said  that  wool  receives  no 
preparation  before  its  being  dyed  in  a  dissolution 
of  flock,  it  is  nevertheless  necessary  to  sulphur 
those  that  are  to  make  clear  shades,  for  that  gives 
them  a  great  brightness  and  lustre,  as  the  dis- 
solved flock  is  applied  on  a  ground  a  great  deal 
whiter  than  it  would  be  without  the  vapour  of 
the  sulphur,  which  cleanses  it  of  all  its  filth. 
The  same  thing  is  done  for  the  light  blues,  and 
for  some  other  colours ;  but  this  operation  is 
seldom  made  use  of  but  for  Vv^ool  intended  foj: 
samples  or  tapestry. 

The  Theory  of  the  Dissolution  of  Flock. 

The  reason  why  from  an  ingredient,  such  as 
the  root  of  madder,  perishable  colours  are  pro- 
duced  from  dissolved  flock,  is  not  difficult  to 
assign.  In  the  first  operation  of  maddering  the 
flock,  the  red  of  the  madder  was  fixed  in  the  hair 
by  the  preparation  of  allum  and  tartar  as  much 
as  possible,  but  as  it  is  overloaded  with  this 
colour,  it  is  easy  to  conceive  that  the  superfluous 
colouring  atoms  being  only  applied  on  those 
which  already  filled  the  pores  of  this  hair,  these 
alone  are  really  retained  in  the  pores,  and  are 
cemented  by  the  salts.  The  hair  thus  reddened 
by  the  madder  so  as  to  become  almost  black, 
would  lose  a  great  deal  of  the  intensity  of  its 
colour,  if  it  was  boiled  in  any  liquor,  was  it  even 


dyer's  companion.  2^ 

CiBinmon  water ;  but  to  this  water,  pearlash  i$ 
added  in  equal  weight  with  the  flock  already 
d>ed,  tvhich  is  to  be  melted  in  it ;  consequently 
there  is  a  very  strong  lixivium  of  fixed  alkahne 
salts  made.  I  have  said  that  very  strong  alkaline 
lies  destroy  the  natural  texture  of  almost  all 
animaUsubstances,  as  also  gums  and  resms  ;  m 
short,  that  an  alkaline  salt  is  their  dissolvent. 
In  the  present  operation,  the  hxivium  or  the 
pearlash  is  verv  concentrated,  and  very  acrid, 
and  consequently  in  a  state  to  melt  the  hair, 
which  is  an  animal  substance,  v/hich  it  does  very 
quickly,  and  with  a  strong  fermentation,  which 
shows  itself  by  the  strong  and  violent  elevation 
of  the  liquor :  consequently  it  destroys  the  pat- 
ural  texture  of  each  of  these  hairs,  and  the  sides 
of  the  pores  being  at  the  same  time  broken  and 
reduced  to  very  minute  parts,  these  sides  having 
neidier  consistence  nor  spring  to  retain  these 
salts,  and  the  colouring  particles  that  wtrre  stick- 
ing to  them.  Therefore  the  animal  particles  of 
the  hair,  the  colouring  parts  of  the  madder,  the 
saline  parts  of  the  liquor,  and  the  alkali  of  the 
pearlash,  are  all  coiifounded  together,  and  form 
^  new  mixture,  which  cannot  afford  a  lasting 
dye,  because  from  these  saline  parts  mixed  to- 
gether there  cannot  be  formed  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  salts  capable  of  crystalization,  and  pro- 
ducing moleculas,  which  can  resist  cold  water 
and  the  rays  of  the  sun.  In  short,  it  could  not 
form  a  tartar  of  vitriol,  because  the  alkaline 
^alt  is  in  too  great  a  proportion. 

To  rouse  the  deep  and  overloaded  dye  of  the 
madder  first  applied  on  the  flock,  and  I'.fter  con- 
founded  by  the  melting  of  this  hair  in  the  mix^ 
ture  already  spoken  of,  putrified  urine  is  added 
in  a  considerable  quantity  ;  this  is  a  further  ob- 
stacle to  cryjjtalization  ;  consequently  wool  not 
T^repared  by  other  salts,  and  dipped  in  a  liquor 


242-  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

thus  composed,  can  only  be  covered  by  a  super- 
flcial  colour,  wliich  finds  no  prepared  pores,  or 
any  thing  saline  in  those  pores,  which  may 
cement  the  colouring  atoms ;  therefore  such  a 
dye  must  quit  its  subject  on  the  least  eftbrt  of 
what  nature  soever  it  be. 

But  wool  prepared  by  the  liquor  of  tartar  and 
allurn,  does  not  take  a  more  lasting  colour,  in 
the  liquor  of  the  melted  flock,  than  wool  not 
prepared  by  these  salts ;  for  a  liquor  which 
aboimds  with  fixed  alkaline  salts  attacks  the  tar- 
tar left  of  the  preceding  preparation  in  the  pores 
of  the  wool.  This  tartar  changes  its  nature,  and 
from  being  hard  to  dissolve,  as  it  was  before, 
it  becomes  a  soluble  tartar,  that  is,  a  salt  thatt 
dissolves  very  easily  in  the  coldest  water. 

It  may  perhaps  be  objected,  that  particles  of 
allum  remain  in  the  pores  of  the  prepared  wool, 
that  from  these  particles  of  allum,  as  well  as 
from  a  portion  of  the  same  salt  which  is  put  into 
the  liquor,  reddened  by  the  melting  of  the  flock, 
the  alkali  of  the  pearlash  must  form  a  tartar  of 
vitriol,  which,  according  to  my  principles,  ought 
to  secure  the  d\^e. 

To  this  I  answer,  that  the  urine  hinders  the 
combination  of  these  two  salts,  which  is  neces- 
sary  for  the  formation  of  the  tartar  of  vitriol ;  if 
even  this  hindrance  did  not  exist,  the  quantity  of 
this  salt,  which  I  have  named  hard  in  another 
place,  could  not  be  sufficient  to  cement  the 
colour  in  the  pores  of  the  wool,  or  put  them  in  a 
state  to  retain  the  colouring  atoms.  Further, 
the  sharpness  of  the  alkaline  salts  in  this  liquor, 
which  is  capable  of  entirely  dissolving  the  hair 
boiled  in  it,  would  equally  be  able  to  dissolve 
the  wool,  w^ere  it  boiled  as  the  flock  was.  But 
yet,  though  a  degree  of  heat  is  not  given  to  the 
liquor,  which  would  be  necessary  for  this^  total 
destruction,  it  is  easily  conceivedj  that  if  the 


dyer's  companion.  ^4o 

siirn  of  the  destroying  action  is  not  the  same^ 
at  least  a  part  exists  which,  is  still  sufficient  to 
corrode  the  sides  of  the  pores  of  the  wool,  to 
enlarge  them  greatly,  and  to  render  them  unfit 
to  retain  the  colouring  atoms ;  to  this  may  be 
added,  that  the  hair  is  melted  in  the  liquor,  and 
consequently  mixed  with  the  colouring  parts 
of  the  madder  in  a  great  quantity  ;  that  these 
are  heterogenious  parts,  which  prevent  the  im- 
mediate contract  of  the  same  colouring  pi.rts, 
and  that  from  all  these  obstacles  taken  together, 
the  colour  must  be  rendered  less  durable  ana 
less  holding  than  any  of  the  lesser  dye.  This, 
experience  sufficiently  proves,  for  if  a  skain  of 
red  wool  dyed  in  this  manner,  be  put  into  boil- 
ing water,  the  colour  will  be  taken  off  entirely. 

Receifit    \37th»     Scarlet  of  Archil,  and  the  manner  of 
using  it. 

ARCHIL  is  a  soft  paste,  of  a  deep  red^ 
which  being  simply  diluted  in  hot  water  affords 
a  number  of  different  shades ;  there  are  two 
kinds,  the  most  common  one  which  is  not  so 
good,  is  generally  made  in  Auvergne,  from 
a  lichen  or  sort  of  moss,  very  common  on 
the  rocks  of  that  province  :  it  is  known  under 
the  name  of  Archil  of  Auvergne,  or  Land  Ar- 
chil. ^  The  other  is  a  great  deal  finer  and  bet- 
ter ;  it  is  called  the  Archil  of  Herb,  or  of  the 
Canaries,  or  Cape  Verd  Archil  ;  it  is  prepared 
in  France,  England,  Holland,  and  other  places. 

The  workmen  who  prepare  this  herb  archil, 
make  a  secret  of  the  preparation,  but  the  par- 
ticulars may  be  found  well  related  in  a  treatise 
oiM.  Pierre  Antviiie  Micheliy  which  bears  for 
title.  Nova  Plantarum  Genera^  therefore  I  shall 
not  here  give  the  method  of  preparing  it. 

When  a  dyer  wants  to  assure  himself  that  the 


^i4i.  APPEX^DIX  TO  THiL 

archil  will  produce  a  beautiful  effect,  he  must 
extend  a  piece  of  this  paste  on  the  back  of  his 
hand  and  let  it  dry,  afterwards  washing  his 
hand  with  cold  water.  If  this  spot  remains 
with  only  a  little  of  its  colour  discharged,  he 
may  udge  the  archil  to  be  good,  and  be  assur- 
ed it  will  succeed. 

I  shall  now  give  the  method  of  using  the 
J^repared  archil,  but  I  shall  only  treat  of  that  of 
the  Canaries,  and  just  mention  the  difference 
between  it  and  that  of  Auvergne-  A  copper  is 
filled  with  clear  v/ater,  and  when  it  begins  to 
be  lukewarm,  the  proper  quantity  of  archil  is 
put  in  and  well  stirred  :  the  liquor  is  afterwards 
heated  almost  to  boiling,  and  the  wool  or  stuffs 
are  dipped  without  any  preparation,  only  keep- 
ing  those  longer  in  that  are  to  be  deeper. 

When  the  archil  yields  no  more  colour  at  this 
degree  of  heat,  the  liquor  is  made  to  boil  to  ex- 
tract the  remainder  ;  but  if  it  is  archil  of  Au- 
vergne,  the  colours  drawn  after  this  manner 
will  be  sadder  than  the  first,  on  account  of  the 
boiling  of  the  liquor.  The  Canary  archil,  on 
the  contrary,  will  lose  nothing  of  its  brightness, 
if  even  the  liquor  boiled  from  the  beginning. 
This  last,  though  dearer,  yields  much  more  dye, 
so  that  there  is  more  profit  in  making  use  of  it, 
besides  its  superiority  over  the  other  in  beauty 
and  goodness  of  colour.  The  natural  colour 
which  is  drawn  both  from  the  one  and  the  other 
archil,  is  a  fine  gris  rf(?./m,- bordering  on  the 
violet.  The  violet,  the  pansy,  the  amaranth, 
anci  several  like  colours  are  obtained  from  it, 
by  giving  the  stuff  a  groujjd  of  blue  more  or 
less  deep  before  it  is  passed'inrough  the  archil. 

It  must  here  be  observed,  that  to  have  the 
clean  .shades  of  these  colours  as  bright  as  they 
ought  to  be,  the  wool  ought  to  be  sulphured,  as 
was  said  in  the  foregoing  receipt  either  before  it 


dyer's  companion.  245 

is  dipped  in  the  archil,  for  the  gris-de-lin,  or  be- 
ibre  it  is  dyed  blue  for  the  violet,  and  other  like 
colours. 

This  way  of  using  archil  is  the  simplest,  but 
the  colours  that  proceed  from  it  are  not  lasting. 
It  may  be  imagined  that  the  colours  would  be 
better  by  giving  a  preparation  to  the  wool  pre- 
vious to  its  being  dyed,  as  is  practised  in  the 
great  dye,  when  madder,  cochineal,  weld,  Sec. 
are  used ;  but  experience  shews  the  contrary^ 
and  I  have  used  the  archil  on  wool  boiled  in  al- 
lum  and  tartar,  which  did  not  resist  the  air  more 
than  that  which  had  received  no  preparation. 

There  is  notwithstanding,  a  method  of  using 
the  Canary  archil,  and  giving  it  almost  as  much 
duration  as  the  most  part  of  the  ingredients  of 
the  good  dye  ;  but  then  its  natural  colour  ofgris^ 
de4in  is  taken  off,  and  it  acquires  a  red  or  scarlet, 
or  rather  a  colour  known  under  the  name  of 
bastard  scarlet.  The  colours  of  the  kermes  or 
Venetian  scarlet,  and  several  other  shades  that 
border  on  the  red  and  the  orange,  may  also  be 
drawn  from  it.  These  colours  are  extracted 
from  the  archil  by  the  means  of  acids,  and  all 
those  that  are  thus  made  may  be  looked  upon  as 
much  more  lasting  than  the  others,  though 
strictly  speaking,  they  are  not  of  the  good  dye. 

There  are  two  methods  of  extracting  these  red 
colours  from  the  archil.  The  first  is  by  incor- 
porating some  acid  in  the  composition  itself  that 
is  made  use  of  to  reduce  this  plant  to  a  paste 
Csuch  as  is  known  to  the  dyers  under  the  name 
of  archil).  I  have  been  assured  that  it  may  hf- 
made  violet  and  even  blue,  which  probably  is 
done  by  the  mixture  of  some  alkalis,  but  I  must 
confess  I  could  not  succeed  in  it,  although  I 
made  above  twenty  trials  for  that  purpose.  I 
shall  now  proceed  to  the  second  method  of 
extracting  from  archil  a  beautiful  and  pretty 


246 


APPENDIX  TO  TH£ 


iasliiig  red,  and  Vvhich  I  executed  four  timeji 
Tvith  success. 

Bas^tard  Scarlet  by  Are  hit. 

Prepared  archil  from  the  Canaries  is  diluted 
as  usual  in  warm  water,  and  a  small  quantity  of 
the  coriimon  composition  for  scarlet  is  added, 
vvhich  is  as  has  been  shown  in  the  preceding 
treatise,  a  solution  of  tin  in  aqua  regia,  weakened 
with  water;  this  acid  clears  the  liquor  immedi- 
ately  and  gives  it  a  scarlet  colour.  The  wool 
or  stuff  is  then  to  be  dipped  in  this  liquor,  and 
left  till  it  has  received  the  shade  required.  If 
the  colour  should  not  have  brightness  enough, 
a  little  more  of  the  composition  must  be  put  in, 
and  pretty  near  the  same  method  must  be  fol- 
lovv^ed  as  in  the  dying  of  common  scarlet :  I  tried 
to  make  it  in  tvvo^  liquors  as  the  scarlet,  that  is, 
to  boil  the  stuft'  with  the  composition,  and  a 
small  quantity  of  archil,  and  afterwards  to  finish 
it  with  a  greater  quantity  of  both,  and  I  sue 
Gceded  equally  ;  but  the  operation  is  longer  after 
this  manner,  and  I  have  sometimes  made  as  fine 
a  colour  in  one  liquor.  Thus  the  dyer  may 
take  his  choice  of  either  of  these  methods. 

I  cannot  exactly  fix  the  quantity  of  ingredients 
in  this  operation.  First,  as  it  depends  on  the 
shade  that  is  to  be  given  to  the  stuff.  Second, 
as  it  is  a  new  process  in  dying,  I  have  not  had 
sufficient  experiments  to  know  with  exactness 
the  quantity  of  archil  and  composition  which 
ought  to  be  used  :  the  success  also  depends  on 
the  greater  or  lesser  acidity  of  the  composition. 
In  short,  this  method  of  dying  with  archil  is  so 
easy,  that  by  making  two  or  three  trials  in  small, 
more  knowledge  will  be  acquired  from  it  than  I 
could  teach  in  a  large  volume  :  I  must  only  add, 
tljat  the  more  the  colour  drawn  from  this  ingrc- 


dyer's  companion.  247 

dient  approaches  the  scarlet,  the  n^ore  lasting 
it  is,  I  have  made  a  great  number  of  shades 
from  the  same  archil,  and  which  consequently- 
only  diftered  by  the  greater  or  less  quantity  of 
the  composition,  and  I  always  found  that  the 
more  the  archil  went  from  the  natural  colour, 
the  more  lasting  it  became,  so  that  whtn  I 
brought  it  to  the  shade  known  by  the  name  of 
bastard  scarlet,  it  withstood  the  action  of  the  air 
and  every  proof  almost  as  well  as  that  which  is 
commonly  made  with  cochineal  or  madder. 

If  too  much  composition  be  put  in  the  litjuor, 
the  w  ool  will  become  of  an  orange  colour,  and 
disagreeable.  The  same  thing  also  happens  w^ith 
cochineal,  so  that  this  is  not  an  inconvenience 
peculiar  to  this  dye  ;  besides  it  is  easily  avoided 
by  proceeding  gradually  in  the  addition  of  the 
composition,  and  by  putting  a  small  quantity 
at  first. . 

I  have  tried  the  different  acids  in  this  scarlet 
composition,  but  none  succeeded  vv/ell ;  vinegar 
did  not  give  a  sufficient  redness  to  the  liquor, 
and  the  stuff  dyed  in  it  only  took  a  colour  of 
lees  of  wine,  which  even  was  not  more  lasting 
in  the  air  than  that  of  the  archil  in  its  natural 
state,  and  other  acids  saddened  the  colour.  In 
short,  it  appears  that  (as  in  scarlet  with  cochi-. 
neal)  a  metallic  basis  extremely  white  must  be 
united  to  the  red  of  the  archil,  and  this  basis 
is  the  clax  of  tin.  I  have  repeated  the  same 
operation  with  the  archil  of  Auvergne,  but  the 
colours  were  not  near  so  fine  or  so  good. 

Receiiit  IS^th.     Red  of  Brazil  or  Red-wood. 

UNDER  the  general  name  of  Brazil  w^ood 
is  comprehended  that  of  Fernambouc,  St.  Mar- 
tha, Japan,  Nicaragua  and  some  others,  which 
I  shall  not  here  distinguish,    since  they    are 


-248  APPENDIX    TO    THE 

all  used  after  the  same  manner  for  dying.  Some 
give  greater  variety  of  colours  than  others,  or 
firier  ;  but  this  often  proceeds  from  the  parts  of 
the  wood  being  more  or  less  exposed  to  the  air 
or  that  some  parts  of  it  may  be  rotted.  The 
soimdest  or  highest  in  colour  are  to  be  chosen 
for  dying. 

All  those  woods  give  a  tolerable  good  colour, 
either  used  alone,  mixt  with  logwood,  or  with 
other  colouring  ingredients.  It  will  be  shewn 
that,  in  the  false  or  bastard  violet,  a  little  Bra- 
zil was  added  to  the  logwood;  but  in  the  vinous 
greys,  or  those  which  have  a  cast  of  the  red,  a 
great  deal  more  is  used.  Sometimes  only,  a 
small  quantity  of  galls  is  put  with  the  Brazil, 
and  it  is  saddened  with  copperas;  often  also 
with  logwood,  archil,  or  some  other  ingredient^ 
it  is  added  according  to  the  shade,  from  whence 
it  is  not  possible  to  give  any  fixed  rule  for  this 
kind  of  work,  on  account  of  the  infinite  varie- 
ty of  shades  which  are  obtained  from  these  dif- 
ferent mixtures. 

The  natural  colour  of  the  Brazil,  and  for 
which  it  is  most  used,  is  the  false  scarlet,  which 
appears  fine  and  bright,  but  far  inferior  to  the 
brightness  of  the  cochineal  or  gum-lacque. 

To  extract  the  colour  from  this  wood,  the 
hardest  water,  such  as  will  not  dissolve  soap, 
must  be  made  use  of,  for  river  water  has  not 
near  so  good  an  effect  ;  it  must  be  cut  into 
chips  and  boiled  for  three  hours  ;  the  water  is 
then  taken  out  and  put  into  a  large  vessel,  and 
fresh  well-water  put  on  the  wood  and  boiled 
again  for  three  hours  ;  this  water  is  added  to  the 
first. 

This  liquor,  which  is  called  juice  of  Brazil, 
must  be  old  and  fermented,  and  rope  like  an 
oily  wine,  before  it  is  fit  for  use.  To  extract  a 
bright  red  from  it,  the  stuff  must  be  filled  with 


dyer's  companion.  249 

the  salts  of  the  common  liquor  of  preparation, 
but  the  allum  must  predominate,  for  the  tartar 
alone,  and  also  sour  water,  greatly  spoils  the 
beauty  of  this  colour  :  in  short,  acids  are  hurt- 
ful to  it,  and  dissolve  its  red  colouring  part. 
Four  ounces  of  allum  for  each  pound  of  stuif  is 
to  be  added  to  the  liquor,  and  only  two  ounces 
of  tartar,  or  even  less.  The  wool  is  to  be  boiled 
in  it  for  three  hours  ;  it  is  then  taken  out  and 
gently  wrung,,  and  thus  kept  moist  for  eight  days 
at  least,  that  by  the  salts  being  retained  it  may 
be  sufficiently  prepared  to  receive  the  dye.  To 
dye  wdth  this,  one  or  two  pails  full  of  the  old 
juice  of  Brazil  is  put  into  a  convenient  copper, 
and  w^ell  scummed.  Dip  the  stuff  vyhich  has 
remained  eight  or  ten  days  moistened  in  the  pre- 
paring liquor,  and  it  must  be  well  worked  in  it 
without  making  the  liquor  boil  too  strongly,  un- 
til it  be  smoothly  and  equally  dyed.  Care  must 
be  taken  to  wring  a  corner  of  this  stuff  now  and 
then,  as  I  have  already  said,  to  judge  of  its  co- 
lour,  for  whilst  wet,  it  appears  at  least  three 
shades  deeper  than  when  dry.  By  this  method, 
which  is  somewhat  tedious,  very  bright  reds 
are  made,  perfectly  imitating  certain  colours 
the  English  sell  under  the  name  of  Campeachy 
scarlets,  which  by  the  proof  of  dyes,  are  not 
found  to  be  better  than  this,  only  that  they  seem 
to  have  been  lightly  maddered. 

This  red,  of  which  I  have  given  the  process, 
and  which  is  no  where  else  described,  withstands 
the  weather  three  or  four  months  in  the  v^^inter, 
without  losing  any  of  its  shade  ;  on  the  contra- 
ry, it  saddens,  and  seems  to  acquire  a  ground, 
but  it  does  not  stand  the  proof  of  tartar. 

Some  dyers  of  the  great  dye  use  Brazil  to 

heighten  the  red  of  madder,  either  to  save  this 

root,  or  make  its  red  more  bright  than  usual. 

This  is  done  by  dipping  in  a  Brazil  liquor  a 

Y2 


250  i\PPENDIX  TO  THE 

Stuff,  begun  with  the  madder,  but  this  kind  of 
fraudulent  dye  is  expressly  forbid  by  the  French 
regulations,  as  well  as  any  mixture  of  the  great 
dye  with  the  lesser,  because  it  can  onlj^  serve  to 
cheat,  and  to  pass  for  a  fine  madder  red,  a  colour 
which  in  a  few  days  loses  all  its  brightness  along 
with  the  shade,  which  has  been  drawn  from  the 
Brazil,  prepared  in  the  common  manner. 

The  first  colour  extracted  from  this  wood  is 
not  of  a  good  dye,  probably  because  it  is  an  in- 
digested sap,  and  whose  colouring  particles  have 
not  been  sufficiently  attenuated  to  be  retained 
and  sufficiently  fixed  in  the  pores  of  the  wool 
dyed  in  it-  When  these  first  gross  parts  of  the 
colour  have  been  carried  oft,  those  that  remain 
in  small  quantity  are  finer,  and  mixing  them- 
selves to  the  yellow  parts,  which  are  furnished 
by  the  pure  woody  parts,  the  red  resulting  from 
it  is  more  lasting. 

By  the  means  of  acids,  of  what  kind  soever, 
all  the  red  colour  of  this  wood  is  carried  off  or 
disappears  ;  then  the  stuff  that  is  dyed  by  it  takes 
a  hind  colour,  more  or  less  deep  in  proportion 
to  the  time  it  is  kept  in  the  liquor,  and  this  co- 
lour is  of  a  very  good  dye. 

It  is  said  that  the  dyers  of  Amboise,  have  a 
method  of  binding  the  Brazil  colour  in  this 
manner  ;  after  their  stuffs  lightly  maddered  have 
been  passed' through  a  liquor  of  weld,  and  con- 
sequently boiled  twice  in  allum  and  tartar,  they 
put  arsenic  and  pearlash  in  the  juice  of  Brazil, 
and  it  is  asserted  that  this  colour  then  resists  the 
proofs  ;  I  tried  this  process,  but  it  did  not  suc- 
ceed. 

When  a  very  bright  red  is  required  from  the 
Brazil,  I  know  by  experience  that  it  is  possible 
to  insure  the  colour  drawn  from  it  after  such  a 
manner,  that,  having  exposed  it  thirty  days  to 
the  rays  of  the  summer's  sun,  it  will  not  change. 


DYER*S    COMPANION.  251 

but  these  kind  of  colours  are  coffee  and  chesnut 
purples. 

To  make  these,  I  keep  the  stufi  moistened  in 
its  liquor  in  a  cellar  for  fifteen  days  ;  this  liquor 
is  prepared  as  for  the  reds,  of  which  I  have 
heretofore  spoken  ;  I  fill  a  copper  to  two-thirds 
with  well  water,  and  the  remaining  third  up  with 
Brazil  juice,  to  which  I  add  about  one  ounce  of 
Aleppo  galls  in  very  fine  powder  to  every  pound 
of  stuff,  and  then  boil  it  one  or  two  hours,  as  I 
want  the  shade  to  be  in  deepness  :  the  stuff  is 
aired  from  time  to  time,  and  wlien  it  has  taken 
the  colour  desired,  it  is  well  cooled  before  it  is 
washed.  This  stuff  being  brushed,  the  nap  lay- 
ed  and  cold  pressed,  comes  out  very  fine  and 
very  smooth. 

As  to  brazil  and  other  subjects  for  red  of  the 
lesser  dye,  they  must  all  undergo  a  similar  pre. 
paration  as  has  been  described,  and  when  the 
red  of  these  subjects  are  connected  with  other 
dyes,  you  will  see  it  fully  described  in  the  re- 
ceipts  of  the  preceding  work. 

I  shall  close  this  subject  of  the  red,  by  giving 
some  remarks  on  the  experiments  of  cochineal 
liquor. 

Zinc  dissolved  in  spirit  of  nitre  changes  the 
red  of  cochineal  to  a  slaty  violet  colour. 

The  salt  of  lead,  used  instead  of  cream  of  tar- 
tar, makes  a  lilac  somewhat  faded;  a  proof 
that  some  portion  of  lead  is  joined  to  the  colour 
of  the  cochineal. 

Vitriolated  tartar  made  with  potash  and  vi- 
triol  destroys  its  red,  and  there  only  remains  an 
agath  grey. 

Bismuth  dissolved  in  spirit  of  nitre,  weaken- 
ed  by  an  equal  part  of  common  water,  and  pour- 
ed on  the  liquor  of  cochineal,  gives  the  cloth 
a  dove-grey,  very  beautiful  and  very  bright. 

A  solution  of  copper  in  spirit  of  nitre  not 


552 


APPEKDIK  TO  THE 


weakened,  gives  to  the  cochineal  a  dirty  crim- 
son. 

Cupullated  silver  a  cinnamon  colour  a  little 
on  the  brovv^n. 
^  Arsenic  added  to  the  liquor    of  cochineal, 
gives  a  brighter  cinnamon  than  the  preceding. 

Gold  dissolved  in  aqua  regia  gave  a  streaked 
chesnut,  which  made  the  cloth  appear  as  if  it 
had  been  manufactured  with  wool  of  different 
colours. 

Mercury  dissolved  with  spirit  of  nitre,  pro- 
duces pretty  near  the  same  effect. 

Glauber's  salts  alone  destroys  the  red,  like 
the  vitriolated  tartar,  and  produces  like  that  an 
agath  grey,  but  not  of  the  good  dye:  because 
this  salt  easily  dissolves  even  in  cold  water,  and 
besides  it  calcines  in  the  air. 

The  fixed  salt  of  urine  gives  a  cinder-grey 
oolour,  where  not  the  least  tincture  of  red  is 
perceived,  and  like  the  foregoing  is  not  of  a 
good  dye,  for  it  is  a  salt  that  cannot  form  a  sol. 
id  cement  in  the  pores  of  the  wool,  as  it  is 
soluble  by  the  moisture  of  the  ain 


CHAP.  IV. 

Receipt  \39 th.     OF  BROTVM 

BROAVN  is  one  of  the  primary  or  material 
colours ;  it  is  fourth  in  rank,  and  it  has  a  great 
iiumberof  variable  shades,  and  is  dependent  on 
the  power  of  the  corrosive,  from  the  darkest  to 
the  lightest  shades,  let  the  subjects  be  of  what 
rank  they  will,  either  inclining  to  blue  or  yellow, 
red  or  black,  they  must  be  corroded,  before  it  can 
be  a  real  colour,  otherwise  it  would  be  a  mixture 
audit  would  be  no  colour  in  itself,  yet  there  is  no 


dyer's  companion.  253 

colour  that  has  so  great  a  connection  with  the 
mixture  of  colours  as  the  brown,  as  will  be 
shown  in  the  sequel ;  it  has  a  variety  of  sub- 
jects as  will  be  shown,  and  its  corrosive  powers 
is  copperas;  the  subjects  are  so  numerous  I 
shall  only  mention  the  principle  ones.  Brown  is 
placed  in  this  rank,  because  it  enters  in  the  com- 
position of  a  great  number  of  colours,  as  you 
may  see  in  the  preceding  work,  in  the  receipts 
for  browns,  &c.  ;  the  working  is  different  from 
others,  for  commonly  no  preparation  is  given  to 
the  wool  to  be  dyed  brawn,  and  like  the  blue  it 
is  only  dipped  in  hot  water.  The  rinds  or  barks 
and  roots  of  the  butternut,  walnut  and  hickory, 
the  barks  of  white  oak,  of  chesnut,  of  maple,  of 
alder,  nut  galls  and  the  gulls  of  all  oaks,  santal, 
sumac,  roudoul  or  sovie,  soot,  &c.  are  used  in 
this  dye  :  butternut  bark  is  the  one  most  in  use, 
and  may  be  ranked  as  the  first,  it  produces  a 
great  variety  of  shades  and  if  rightly  used  its  co- 
lour is  permanent,  and  is  one  of  the  greatest  co- 
louring substitutes  in  the  Northern  States  ;  it  is 
good  in  all  browns  mixed  with  brown  and  yel- 
low, or  brown,  red  and  yellow,  as  you  may  see 
by  my  former  work.  As  the  bark  of  butternut 
is  so  common,  aiid  so  well  explained  in  the  re- 
ceipts in  the  preceding,  I  shall  say  no  more  of  it 
here. 

Browns  are  all  saddened  or  darkened  with 
copperas  in  proportion  to  the  shade  required  ; 
the  other  colouring  subjects  for  brown  will  be 
noticed  hereafter. 


CHAP.  V. 

Receifit  140M.     OF  BLACK. 

BLACK  is  the  fifth  primary  or  material  co- 
lour ;  its  principle  subject  is  logwood  ;  it  is  gov- 


jS4t  APPENDIX  TO  'PHE 

eriied  by  the  power  of  the  corrosi\e,  in  v/hich  aU 
colours  and  shades  are  absorbed  and  corroded 
in  darkness.  The  barks,  galls,  sumac,  &c.  serve 
to  make  a  body  yviththe  g^odsfor  the  logwood  to 
act  upon,  the  acid  of  argal  and  the  alkali,  corrects 
the  vi^iolic  acid,  that  it  receives  by  the  green  vi- 
trioi  or  copperas ;  this  vitriolic  acid  rouses  the 
logwood  and  gives  it  a  purple  brown  for  which  it 
must  be  corroded  either  by  acid  or  alkali,  or  both. 
Black  has  but  one  shade;  that  of  black  or  darkness, 
yet  it  is  denominated  as  having  four,  blue  black, 
because  the  blue  is  not  absorbed  ;  grey  black, 
the  pores  or  bodies  are  not  filled  ;  brown  black, 
for  want  of  a  neutral  to  correct  the  vitriolic  acid 
and  the  slightly  parts  ^of  the  logwood  ;  and  the* 
Coal  black,  that  is,  perfectly  fine  and  velvety o 

Receijit  14 Is^     FOR  BLACK. 

FOR  one  hundred  pounds  of  cloth,  fill  youii 
copper  with  water,  then  add  sixty  pounds  of 
logwood  chips,  thirty  pounds  of  sumac  and  three 
pounds  of  nut  galls,  or  white  oak  bark  as  pre- 
pared for  tanners  may  be  substituted  for  nut 
galls ;  heat  and  boil  well  one  hour,  then  run 
your  cloth  one  and  an  half  hours  ;  then  take  up 
and  cool,  boil  again,  and  run  as  before ;  cool, 
and  take  two  pounds  and  a  half  ofpearlash,  dis- 
solve it  in  six  gallons  of  warm  water,  then  pul- 
verize one  pound  and  a  half  of  verdigrease,  and 
add  one  gallon  of  the  pearlash  liquor ;  let  it 
simmer  over  a  moderate  fire  wuth  often  stirring, 
but  not  boil ;  then  take  thirty  pounds  of  cop- 
peras and  put  w'ith  the  remaining  pearlash  li- 
quor, and  dissolve  it,  then  add  it  to  the  dye,  run 
your  cloth  one  hour, take  out  and  cool;  then  add 
the  verdigrease  solution,  run  again  with  the  dye 
boiling,  run  and  air  as  before  ;  then  add  three 
pounds  and  a  half  of  blue  vitriol,  run  again  and 


DYER  S    C0MPANI02>r.  2oO 

yoti  will  have  a  fine  black.  The  verdigreasc 
and  blue  vitriol,  stand  as  neutrals  in  this  dye ; 
the  verdigrease  is  a  mineral  of  copper,  and  is 
much  finer  than  iron,  of  course  has  a  small- 
er quantity  of  earth  with  it ;  it  is  an  assistant  in 
saddening,  and  rouses  the  logwood  :^  blue  or 
a  Roman  vitriol,  is  a  mineral  of  a  vitriolic  sub- 
stance, and  they  both  serve  to  assist  and  correct 
the  logwood  and  the  vitriolic  acid  of  the  copper- 
as, they  are  both  corroding  and  acid  powers  in 
this  dye  and  all  other  dyes  where  used. 

Jleceifit  142r/.  Aiwikcr  form  for  Black,  in  which  the 
brictleness  and  ^j)eakness  of  the  goods  is  com/iletdij 
remedied. 

FOR  one  hundred  weight  of  cloth,  fill  your 
boiler  with  fair  water,  take  twenty  pounds  of 
yellow  oak  bark  ground  as  for  tan,  or  twelve 
pounds  of  fustic  chips  as  a  substitute  for  the 
bark,  boil  well  one  hour  ;  then  add  twenty -five 
pounds  of  copperas,  rake  the  dye  well,  then  run 
your  cloth  one  hour,  take  out,  air  and  return 
again,  and  reel  w^ith  the  dye  boiling  as  before ; 
then  air  and  rince  your  cloth  clean,  shift  your 
liquor  from  your  boiler,  clean  well,  fill  w^ith  wa- 
ter  and  add  forty-six  pounds  of  logwood  chips^ 
twenty  pounds  of  sumac  well  dried,  and  three 
pounds  of  nut  galls  pulverized,  or  twelve  pounds 
of  white  oak  bark  as  for  tan  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  galls  ;  boil  one  hour,  then  run 
your  cloth  two  hours ;  then  take  up  and  cool^ 
boil  again  a  few  minutes,  run  as  before  and 
air  ;  then  add  three  pounds  of  pearlash  or  potash 
dissolved,  and  two  pounds  of  blue  vitriol,  boil 
well,  run  your  cloth  tw'o  hours  with  the  dye 
boiling,  and  your  black  will  be  fine  and  affixed, 
not  superficial  and  smutty  :  the  black  will  be 
soft  and  velvety.    I  shall  now  proceed  to  give 


256  APPENDIX    TO    THE 

the  reasons  why  blacks  are  so  tender,  brittle  and 
smutty ;  goods  are  not  brittled  altogetJier  by 
the  vitriolic  acid  that  the  copperas  contains,  as  is 
the  general  opinion  ;  first,  copperas  is  made  up 
of  three  parts,  earth,  iron  and  acid,  and  when 
applied  to  the  dye  of  black,  according  to  com- 
mon form  after  the  vegetable  astringents  of  log- 
wood, sumac,  galls,  &;c.  ;  the  earth  of  the 
copperas  being  the  lightest  part  first  enters  the 
bodies;  the  pores  and  fibres  of  the  wool  are  clos- 
ed by  the  astringents,  and  the  vitriolic  acid  has 
not  power  to  f  3rce  out  the  earth  and  gain  admis- 
sion for  the  iron,  because  it  is  so  inclosed,  and 
the  fibres  shut  by  the  astringents  that  it  never 
enters  and  preys  on  the  bodies,  but  remains 
only  superficial.  Galls  are  the  most  astringent 
of  any  vegetable,  and  when  any  of  these  vegeta- 
ble astringent  substances  are  first  used  without 
a  preparation,  the  sahs  after  they  are  applied, 
remain  superficial  and  never  enter  the  bodies  of 
the  wool ;  and  further  it  binds  all  the  fibres  and 
bodies  of  the  wool  with  all  the  resin  and  glu- 
tinous substance  that  remains  of  the  animal  in 
the  bodies  of  the  wool,  and  that  resin  becomes 
aifixed  and  causes  it  to  crock.  The  wool  is  brit- 
tle because  the  earth  has  entered  the  pores  of  the 
wool,  and  is  bound  by  the  astringents ;  for  that 
reason  the  iron  and  acid  remains  on  the  outside 
and  never  enters  the  bodies  of  the  wool,  and  it 
cannot  be  affixed,  but  remains  superficial.  It 
may  be  asked,  why  do  not  blacks  lose  all  theit 
colour  '?  I  answer  it  is  not  the  affixity,  but  being 
loaded  with  such  a  mass  of  colouring  substances 
that  the  rays  of  light  cannot  reflect  upon  it,  and 
after  it  has  lost  half  the  colour,  that  it  first  re- 
ceived, there  is  a  sufficient  body  to  resist  the 
rays  of  light ;  for  example,  take  oneitenth  part 
of  the  colouring  ingredients  and  apply  them  ex- 
actly in  the  same  form  as  for  black,  and  you  will 


dyer's  COMPANI02;.  257 

find  it  will  admit  the  rays  of  light,  and  will  soon 
lose  all  its  colour  ;  this  shows  that  the  colour 
is  not  affixed  but  superficial  :  these  are  the 
reasons  why  blacks  in  general  are  tender  and 
liable  to  be  smutty ;  in  short  not  to  tire  the 
patience  of  the  reader,  I  have  endeavoured  to 
show  the  cause  of  the  tenderness  and  liability 
of  blacks  to  crock  ;  I  will  endeavour  to  give 
the  process  (by  differently  applying  the  goods 
and  colouring  subjects)  to  prevent  their  be- 
ing tender  and  smutty.  By  first  preparing  the 
goods  with  copperas  and  fustic  or  bark,  a  por- 
tion of  the  acid  of  the  copperas  evaporates,  and 
the  earth  principally  unites  with  part  of  the  acid 
and  the  colouring  subject  and  drives  out  the 
colour  of  this  subject,  and  leaves  the  astringen- 
cy  ;  and  when  the  goods  are  entered,  the  iron  and 
colouring  substance,  with  a  small  portion  of  the 
acid  enters  the  vvool  and  becomes  affixed,  and 
the  air  drives  it  into  the  pores  and  crystalizes  it, 
that  the  iron  and  acid  cannot  be  dissolved  by 
air  and  water ;  by  rincing  in  cold  water  it 
removes  all  the  useless  substance,  and  part  of 
the  earth  and  acid,  and  is  divested  of  all  the  su- 
perficjous  matter  ;  by  emptying  the  copper  j'ou 
are  divested  of  the  whole  of  the  earth,  that  the 
copperas  contains  ;  now  it  is  prepared  for  the 
logwood,  sumac,  galls,  &cc.  ;  these  astringents 
take  immediate  hold  of  the  bodies  of  these  pre- 
pared goods,  and  becomes  affixed  in  all  the 
pores  and  fibres  of  the  wool.  The  alkali  of  pe<irL 
ash,  &c.  does  not  bind  the  colour,  but  only 
corrects  and  takes  off  the  light  and  fleery  part  of 
the  logwood  ;  the  verdigrease  and  blue  vitriol, 
rouses  the  colouring  substances;  as  acids, 
they  are  more  so  than  copperas,  and  the  mineral 
mucti  finer.  The  blue  vitriol  is  pvossessed  of  a 
large  portion  of  earth,  much  more  tlian  copperas 
lor  verdigrease,  and  is  very  astringent  and  ought 


258  APPENDIX  10   THE,    &C. 


never  to  be  used  in  a  preparation,  only  in  the  last 
of  a  dye  after  the  goods  have  had  a  preparation 
and  the  fibres  of  the  wool  closed  by  the  astrin- 
gents, then  the  earth  of  the  vitriol  remains  super- 
ficial and  is  all  dissolved  or  washed  away  by 
water;  but  as  an  astringent,  it  is  the  most  so 
of  all  vitriols,  it  binds  the  colouring  substances, 
but  corrects  none. 

The  cleansing  and  scouring  of  the  blacks 
ought  to  be  noticed  :  the  ancient  form  of  cleans- 
ing  black  is,  after  the  loose  dye  is  rinced  off, 
then  fill  them  with  fullers  earth,  it  only  works 
through  the  cloth  in  the  mill,  and  by  this  fritting 
it  swallows  up  all  the  superficial  part  of  the  dye, 
and  rince  with  clear  water  :  but  this  is  not  the 
best  way,  after  you  have  rinced  off  in  the  mill 
the  loose  dye  hang  the  cloth  out  and  dry,  and 
to  every  hundred  pounds  of  cloth  take  two  pound 
of  hanl  soap,  dissolve  it  in  warm  water  sufficient 
to  wet  them,  say  twelve  gallons,  then  take  three 
pints  of  beef  gall,  mix  it  with  the  soap  water 
and  sprinkle  on  the  cloth,  let  it  run  m  the  mill 
fifteen  minutes,  and  then  rince  well.  The  soap 
removes  all  the  loose  parts  of  the  dye  stuff,  and 
the  beef  gall  makes  them  all  affixed  and  binds 
the  whole,  as  it  is  an  astringent.  Some  errone. 
ously  use  soap  only,  but  that  is  the  reverse,  anc! 
leaves  the  wool  too  openj  like  other  alkalis. 


1 


L    259    ] 
OBSERVATIONS 

ON  THE 

MIXTURE  OF  COLOURS, 

DYE  STUFFS,  &c. 

CHAPTER  VI. 

On  the  mixture  of  Colours, 

ON  the  five  principle  colours  in  this  and  the  preceding 
work,  I  have  endeavoured  to  point  out  the  best  methods  tor 
practice,  both  in  the  greater  and  lesser  dye.  I  shall  now 
endeavour  to  show  the  connection  these  colours  have  by 
twos,  and  by  threes,  but  it  will  be  generally  on  the  great  or 
good  dye ;  it  will  be  needless  to  have  a  repetition  in  this 
work,  as  there  is  iu  the  former  work  above  fifty  receipts 
which  give  a  variety  of  shades  of  the  lesser  dye,  and  it  is 
well  explained  iii  the  essay  on  the  properties  and  effecthi  o£ 
dye  stuffs  &  their  dependin:r  powers. 

On  mixing  Colours  tJiree  by  three. 

Blue,  yellow  and  black,  produce  all  d-irk  j^'eens  to  a 
black  — Blue,  red, and  yellow,  produce  olives,  grecnisli  greys 
and  other  colours  of  the  same  kind  ;  when  the  mixture  con- 
tains blue  it  is  usual  to  begin  with  that  colour. — I^lne,  red 
and  brovvn,  produce  from  the  darkest  to  the  lightest  shades. 
Blue,  red  ar.d  black,  produce  a  numerous  variety  of  shades. 
Blae,  yellow  and  brown,  produce  greens  and  olives  of  all 
kinds.-^Blae,  brown  and  black,  produce  olivts  and  greenish 
greys— Red,  yellow  and  brown,  produce,  orange,  gold 
colour,  burnt  cinnamon  and  snuff  colours  of  all  kinds.— Red, 
yellow  and  black,  produce  a  colour  which  resembles  a 
withered  leaf. — Lastly,  from  yellow,  brown  and  biack,  you 
obtain  hair  colour,  nut  brown,  8cc.  Four  of  these  colours 
may  be  mixed  together,  and  sometimes  five,  bi.n  this  is  not 
usual.  It  vis  needless  to  enlarge  upon  this  subject,  I  shall 
only  observe  that  a  variety  of  different  shades  may  be  ob- 
tained from  each  of  these  colours ;  the  design  of  this  enume~ 
ration  is  only  to  give  a  general  idea  of  the  iRvredients  that 
are  proper  for  the  production  of  coloirs,  co^^post;d  of  sev- 
eral others.  As  it  respects  the  lesser  dye  of  grass  gret- n  ob- 
tained from  chymick,  it  is  well  explained  in  the  former 


^60  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

work  ;  I  shall  only  mention  the  process  for  pea-green,  and 
vefer  to  receipt  No.  6»  for  the  preparation  of  liie  ciiymick  for 
the  blue:  the  goods  being  well  scoured  me  to  be  allutned, 
ror  every  twenty  pounds  weight,  two  pounds  of  ulluin  is  to 
be  put  into  a  copper  with  fair  warer,  and  the  goods  boiled 
gently  an  hour  and  a  half;  whilst  'his  is  i)erforniing,  ano- 
ther copper  is  got  ready.  In  which  tu:;tic  chips  are  put  to 
boil ;  if  there  are  anv  to  dye  pea-yjreen  it  is  best  to  dye  them 
Srst,  not  as  practised  in  soaje  dye-houses,  for  this  great 
yeuson,  that  when  several  parcels  of  goods  have  been 
through  the  sanne  liquor,  tht  re  re«nains  a  scurf  which  the 
acid  extracts,  and  that  is  sur^^  to  stick  to  the  next  parcel 
thdt  goes  in  ;  and  if  pea-green  was  the  last,, the  colour  would 
he  dulled  therebv.  The  greens  ()jea-grten  excepted)  are 
to  be  turned  about  ten  minutes  in  the  allum  liquor  after  they 
are  dyed,  in  or«ler  to  clear  them  of  the  stuff,  and  render  the 
C(Mour  brighter.  The  allum  liquor  is  not  to  be  hotter  than 
that  the  hand  m.ybe  borne  in.  Observe,  if  the  allum  was 
put  m  (as  is  customary  in  sonie  dye-houses)  with  the  fustic, 
it  would  retard  its  working  so  well ;  for  allum,  being  an  acid, 
would  discharge  if  used  with,  as  well  as  prepare  for  fustic. 
OF  PURPLE. 

IN  the  first  ages  of  the  world  this  was  esteemed  the  rich- 
est of  all  colours.  Purple  was  the  colour  o1  the  garments 
that  designated  men  who  were  distinguished  by  their  civil 
and  ^ehginus  ^tllti.  ns  This  beautiful  colour  was  obtained 
from  a  shell  fish  resembling  the  oyster  ;  it  is  taken  on  the 
without  any  other  ingredient  this  fish  coast  of  Palestine; 
a>lours  the  purple  ;  it  gives  a  bright  and  lasting  coh  ur  to  all 
goods  that  have  received  its  impression  ;  this  dye  stuff 
comes  so  highly  charged  that  it  has  never  been  much  used 
in  any  part  of  Europe  or  An^erica. 

The  Grecians  found  a  sul>stituie  for  purple  in  a  plant  call- 
©<1  amorgis  ;  it  is  probable  neither  of  these  will  be  used   in 
this  part  of  the  world,  as  both  are  very  expensive. 
OF  ORAjXGE. 

THE  brightest  orange  is  raised  by  first  colouring  the  cloth 
scarlet,  and  then  dipping  it  m  a  yellow  dye  of  turmeric  and 
fustic  ;  it  may  be  obtained  by  colouring  the  cloth  crimson 
and  then  yellow,  or  first  dipping  it  in  a  red- wood  or  madder 
dye,  then  in  the  yellow  dye,  &c. 

0/  tJie  mxture  of  the  Colours  three  by  three. 

I  will  again  repeat  the  primitive  colours  three  by  three, 
to  impress  on  the  dyers  mind  what  he  ought  to  begin 
with,  and  the  preparation  to  govern  the  dye. 

From  blue,  red,  and  yellovv,  the  red  olives  and  j^reenish 
greys  are  made,  and  some  otlier  like  shades  of  little  use 
only  for  spun  wool  designed  for  tapestry.    It  would  be  a 


dyer's  companion.  261 

repetition  to  giv^  the  method  of  using;  these  colours,  having 
sufficiently  explained  it  in  the  preceding  pages. 

In  the  mixture,  where  blue  is  a  shade,  it  is  usual  to  begin 
with  it;  the  stuff  is  afterwards  boiled  to  give  it  the  other 
colours,  in  which  it  is  dipped  alternately  one  after  the  other  ; 
notwithstanding  they  are  sometinies  mixed  together,  and 
are  as  good,  provided  they  are  colours  which  require  the 
same  preparation  ;  for  example,  the  madder-red  and  the 
yellow.  As  to  the  cochineal  and  kermes,  tiiey  are  seldom 
used  in  these  common  colours,  but  only  light  colours  which 
have  a  bloom  or  vinous  hue,  and  which  must  be  bright  and 
brilliant,  and  then  they  are  not  used  in  th<  la^t  liquor,  that 
is.  the  stuff  is  only  dipped  in  when  it  has  received  the  other 
colours,  unleas  they  are  to  be  greyed  a  little,  which  is  lastly 
done  by  passing  them  through  the  br<>wning.  it  is  impossi- 
ble to  give  any  precise  rules  for  this  work,  and  the  least 
practice  of  these  rules  vvill  teach  more  than  1  could  say  ia 
many  volumes. 

Olives  are  made  from  blue,  red,  and  brown,  from  the 
deepest  to  the  lightest,  and  by  giving  a  little  shade  of  red,  the 
slated  greys,  the  lavender  greys,  and  such  like. 

From  the  blue,  the  red,  and  the  black,  an  infinite  number 
of  greys  of  all  shades  are  made,  as  the  sage  grey,  the  pigeon 
grey,  the  slate  grey,  the  lead  grey,  the  king's  and  prince's 
colour,  browner  than  usual,  and  a  variety  of  other  colours 
almost  innumerable. 

Receipt  I43t/.     For  Faim  Colour  and  Silver  Grey, 

FAWN  is  a  hghtish  sand\  brown,  being  very  permanent. 
For  twelve  pounds  of  wool,  take  half  a  bushel  of  walnut 
husks,  put  them  in  the  copper  of  clean  water,  let  tliem  boil 
one  hour;  then  dip  your  wool  three  hours ;  take  up  and 
cool,  and  add  four  ounces  of  crude  or  red  tartar,  dip  again 
tv/o  hours  ;  take  up  and  cool,  and  you  have  a  durable  co- 
lour for  silver  grev. 

Receipt  l44i/t.    FOR  SILVER  GREY. 

FOR  twenty  pounds  of  cloth  or  worsted?  eight  ounces  of 
alium  and  twelve  pounds  of  fenugreek  must  boil  with  the 
goods  half  an  hour  ;  then  take  it  up,  and  add  one  pound  of 
pearlash  and  eight  ounces  of  Brazil  wood  ;  boil  them  gently 
with  the  goods  half  an  hour  ;  rince  it  and  you  have  a  beau  ^ 
tiful  colour. 

•  From  yellow,  blue,  and  brown,  are  made  the  greens^ 
goose  dung,  and  olives  of  all  kinds. 

From  brown,  blue,  and  black,  are  produced  the  brown 
olives,  and  the  green  greys. 

From  the   red,   yellow,  and  brov/n,  proceed  the  orange, 
gold  colour,  marigold,  feule.riort,  old  carnations,  burnt  cin 
Jiamon,  and  tobacco  of  all  kinds. 
Z  2 


262 


APPENDIX  TO    THE 


Receipt  145 M.  For  Tobacco  or  Snuff  Co^oli): 
FOR  every  hundred  pounds  ot  wool  take  twenty  pounds 
ol  good  ground  camwood,  boil  well,  run  or  dip  vour  wool 
tliree  hours  ;  then  have  another  liquor  prepared  of  eighty 
po.inds  of  fustic  and  ten  bushels  of  butternut  bark,  boil  well 
till  the  strength  is  well  out;  takeout  the  chips  and  bark; 
stir  or  dip  the  wool  six  hours  ;  then  air,  and  add  ten  pounds 
of  copperas  and  three  gallons  of  sig,  immerse  again,  and 
keep  It  in  with  the  dye  boiling,  till  you  obtain  the  shade  re- 
vjuired      This  is  a  most  excellent  and  permanent  colour. 

1  offer  these  suggestions  that  workmen  may  suit  them- 
selves in  mixing  colours.  Europeans  apprised  of  our  in- 
creasing manufactories,  attempt  to  baffle  out  attempts  by 
imposing  on  us  mixed  cloth  as  fashionable  ;  they  are  sensi- 
ble that  the  younger  look  to  the  older  nations  for  the  pat- 
terns of  their  garments,  and  for  fashionable  colours  of  their 
cloths  ;  for  this  reason  the  Europeans  frequently  change  or 
mix  their  colours  to  retain  our  adherence  to  their  markets. 
Of  Colours  -which  ivill  endure  milUng. 
DEEP  blue  with  all  its  shades  black»  red  brown,  smoke 
and  snuff  browns,  cinnamon,  crimson,  madder-red,  pink, 
purple,  chiret  with  red-wood,  all  browns  and  drabs.  I  in- 
sert thee  observations  to  accommodate  those  people  that 
\vould  wish  to  mix  any  of  these  colours  in  the  wool  for  cloth 
that  is  to  be  milled. 

CHAP.  VII. 

A  few  remarks  on  Dye  Drugs^  Woods,  and  Barks^  and 
Salts  /ire/iaratory  to  them 
OF  JJVDIGO. 
THERE  are  various  qualities,  and  many  dyers  fail  in  their 
iudgment  of  the  indigo  ;  the  best  is  imported  from  Spanish 
America,  it  is  generally  soft,  and  will  swim  on  the  surface  ctf 
water,  and  is  called  flotong,  this  is  the  best  kind  of  indigo 
for  blues,  and  no  other  o\ight  ever  to  be  used  for  saxon 
greens.  French  indigo  is  much  harder  and  in  lamps  about 
two  inches  square  ;  if  good,  when  broken  it  will  appear  a 
fine  purple,  this  will  make  a  fine  blue.  Carolina  indigo  will 
ansv/er  for  almost  all  colours,  where  indigo  is  used,  if  it  will 
mix  well  with  oil  of  vitriol,  it  will  answer  forlall  blues  ;  iliis 
kind  of  indigo  is  in  lumps  about  the  size  of  French  indigo ; 
you  may  break  a  lump  and  find  its  quality  by  cutting  or 
scraping  it  with  the  edge  of  a  knife,  and  wetting  and  rubbing 
it  on  the  nail  :  if  the  colour  adheres  to  the  nail  it  may  be 
pronounced  good ;  but  if  it  appear  of  a  purple,  and  something 
mouldy  as  if  the  air  had  passed  through  it,  or  puts  on  a  sad, 
dirty,  dull  colour,  breaks  hard  and  flinty,  and  is  full  of  small 
round  white  specks,  it  is  fit  for  no  iTse,  aird  wrll  answer  no 
purpose  in  dying* 


DYER^S   COMPANION.  263 

OF  COCHLYEAL. 
COCHINEAL  is  an  insect  cultivated  in  South  America^ 
it  is  shipped  to  Spain,  from  Spain  to  England  and  from 
thence  to  Amerca  at  a  high  price  on  account  of  its  accumu- 
lated and  heavy  duties.  It  is  a  strong  and  good  dye  drug, 
and  will  return  a  handsome  profit  to  the  dyer  when  used  in 
scarlets,  pinks  and  crimsons.  That  which  is  good  will  ap- 
pear plump  and  look  as  though  a  light  sprinkling  of  flour 
had  been  cast  upon  it.  If  you  keep  it  dry  in  a  glass  bottle* 
stopped  tight,  it  will  remain  good  many  years.  There  is  a 
kind  of  cochineal  wild  and  uncultivated,  it  is  small  and 
shrivelled,  will  make  a  good  colour,  but  will  require  three 
times  the  weight  of  the  other.  Some  cochineal  is  damaged 
by  salt  water ;  this  appears  of  a  dirty  crimson  cast,  and  iB 
fit  for  no  use. 

OF  CAMWOOD. 
CAMWOOD  is  with  pro])riety  called  the  best  of  dyC 
woods;  I  think  it  must  be  a  species  of  saunders ;  its  colour  is 
permanent,  and  will  resist  the  influence  of  the  air  and  al- 
most all  acids.     It  is  not  many  years  since  the  use  of  it  was 
first  known  in  the  United  States ;   it  is  in  logs  of  wood  from 
six  inches  to  a  foot  through ;  it  splits  freely  and  when  good  is 
heavy  ;  on  opening  it,  the  first  appeai'ance  is  a  bright  r^^d- 
dish  orange,  on  being  exposed  to  the  air  it  turns  reddish  ; 
its  smell  is  pungent     It  is  much  more  convenient  for  the  dy- 
er to  have  it  ground,  or  you  rrmst  chip  it  fine ;  it  being  a  very 
close   wood  it  will  require  much  boiling  :  that  which  is 
ground,  if  good  will  appear  of  a  yellowish  red  ;  if  you  wave 
it   a  hot  dust  will  arise,  which  irritates  the   nose  and  the 
glands  of  the  throat;  that  which  is  mild  and  of  a  darkish 
red  has  been  leeched  and  will  produce  no  good  colour. 
OF  BRAZIL  OR  RED-fVOOD. 
RED- WOOD  makes  fineculours  and  is  useful  in  many 
dyes,  whether  used  alone  or  with  logwood  ;  if  used  with  log- 
wood it  will  produce  violet  lilac,  andv  is  useful  in  browns 
"where  red  is  required;  it  is  good  for  a  pink,  claret,  8cc, ;  it  is 
better  to  use  nut  galls  with  it     Brazil  comes  in  small  sticks; 
if  good,  looks  bright,  of  a  little  yellowish  red,  smells  agree- 
able, and  chips  freely.    The  colour  obtained  from  this  wood 
is  not  lasting  if  obtained  hastily  ;  the  liquor  ought  to  sour, 
then  the  colour  will  be  permanent;  that  which  has  hten 
damaged  by  the  sea- water  or  otherwise,  afford  a  dull  red 
chip,  and  is  cohesive  and  clingv. 

OF  J^ICARAGUA  WOOD. 
NICARx\GU A  is  in  sticks  of  various  sizes  ;  these  sticks 
b^ve  a  number  of  concaves  m  them,  which  have  the  appear- 
ance of  art.  This  wood  splits  fceely,  and  is  of  a  reddish 
©range  colour,  it  gives  a  bright  colour,  and  is  used  much  the 
same  as  braxil  ivood,  but  is  preferable  in  browns,  S;e, 


264*  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

OF  BARWOOD. 

SOME  have  mistaken  barwood  for  camwood,  and  not 
knowing  the  use,  both  have  been  condemiied.  Barwood  will 
dye  chocolates  and  darkish  browns  ;  it  commonly  comes  in 
clefts,  it  is  of  a  re  Idish  brown,  splits  freely  one  way  of  the 
grain,  the  other  hard  and  rough. 

Chymical  History  of  Saunders y  audits  difference  from      her  Red- 
woods. 

RED  saanders  is  a  hard,  compact  ponderous  wood,  of  a 
dark  blackish  red  on  the  outside,  and  a  light  red  colour 
■within  ;  of  no  particular  smell  or  taste  It  i^  brought  from 
the  Coromandel  coast  and  from  Golconda.  Of  the  tree  we 
have  no  certain  account*  Its  principal  use  is  as  a  colouring 
drug  Those  whose  business  it  is  to  rasp  and  grind  it  into 
powder,  probably  employ  c-  rtain  saline  or  oth  r  additions  to 
improve  the  colour;  whence  the  remarkable  differences 
in  the  colour  of  powdered  saunders  prepared  in  different 
places  That  of  Strasburgh  is  of  the  deepest  and  liveliest  red. 
Some  sorts  are  of  a  dead  dark  red,  and  some  of  a  pale  brick 
red  ;  some  incline  to  purple  or  vinlet,  and  some  to  brown. 

The  c<^l()ur  ot  this  wood  resides  wholly  in  its  resin,  and 
hence  is  extracted  by  rectified  spirit,  whilst  water,  though 
it  takes  up  a  portion  of  mucil  iginous  matter,  gains  no  tinge, 
or  only  a  slight  yellowish  one  From  two  ounces  of  the 
wood  were  obtained  by  spirit  of  wine  three  drachms  and  a 
half  of  resmous  extract,  and  afterwards  by  water,  a  scruple 
of  mucilage.  By  applying  water  at  first,  I  obtained  from 
two  ounces  two  drachms  and  six  grains  of  a  tough  mucila- 
ginous extract,  which  could  not  easily  be  reduced  to  dryness. 
The  remainder  still  yielded,  with  sj.irit,  two  drachms  of 
resin*  The  indissoluble  matter  weighed,  in  the  first  case,  an 
ounce  and  a  half  aud  fifteen  grains;  in  the  latter,  nineteen 
grains  less.  Neither  the  distilled  water  nor  spirit  had  any 
remarkable  taste  or  smell. 

The  red  colour  if  saunders  appears  to  be  no  other  than  a 
concentrated  yellow,  for  by  bare  dilution  it  becomes  yellow. 
A  grain  of  the' resinous  extract,  dissolved  in  an  ounce  of  rec- 
tified spirt,  tinges  it  red,  but  this  solution,  n^ixt  with  a  quart 
of  fresh  spirit,  give  only  a  yellow  hue-  Hoffman  reports  that 
this  resin  does  not  give  a  tincture  to  any  kind  of  oil.  i  have 
tried  five  oils,  those  of  amber,  turpentine,  almonds,  anni- 
seeds,  and  lavt  nder.  It  gave  no  colour  to  the  two  first,  but 
a  deep  red  to  the  last,  and  a  paler  red  to  the  other  two. 

OF  YELLOW  WOODS  JIHB  DRUGS. 

OF  these  1  shall  make  but  tew  remarks  as  they  have  been 
well  explained  in  the  preceding. 

Of  Weld.— Weld  is  a  plant  that  may  be  cultivated  among 
ws;  it  is  two  seasons  coming  to  maturity   and  m«ct  be  cut 


265 

and  cured  when  in  the  bloom  or  blossotn,  and  dried  without 
wet  and  put  up  in  castas  for  use :  this  gives  the  best  and 
most  permanent  yellow. 

OF  FUSTIC, 
FUSTIC  is  the  wood  or  species  of  mulberry-tree»  groW- 
ing  in  Jamaica  and  Brazil,  called  by  Sir  Hans  Sloane^ 
Morus  Fructu  Viridi  L^gno  Sulfihurco  Tmctorio,  It  ib  (^f  a 
deep  sulphur  yellow  coiuur,  which  it  readily  gives  out  both 
to  water  and  spirit.  The  watery  decoction  dyes  prepared 
woollen  of  a  very  durable  orange  yellow  :  the  colour  is  im- 
bibed by  the  cloth  in  a  moderate  warmth  without  boiling. 

The  fustet  or  fustel  of  the  French  is  a  yellow  wood  or 
yoot  very  different  from  our  fustic  It  gives  a  fine  orange 
dye  to  woollen,  but  the  colour  is  extremely  perishable  in  the 
air.  The  plant  grows  wild  in  Italy  and  Frovence,  and  is 
cultivated  with  us  in  gardens  on  account  of  the  beauty  of  its 
firswers.  It  is  called  Venice  sumach^  cotinus  cotiaria^  cocci* 
gria  ;  cQftnus   matthioli,  C  B. 

As  to  yellow  wood,  green  wood,  turmeric,  &c.I  shall  mak^ 
np  further  remarks. 

Of  Log-wood  (U  a  colonring  drug. 
LOGWOOD  or  Campeachy  wood  (Lignum  Brazil^- 
simile,  caruleo  tingens,  J  B,  id  the  wood  of  a  low  prickly 
tree,  which  grows  plentifully  about  Campeachy  or  the  Bay 
of  Honduras,  and  has  of  late  been  introduced  into  some  of 
the  warmer  of  the  British  plantations,  particularly  Jamaica. 
It  is  a  native  of  the  low  marshy  places.  The  wood  comes 
over  in  pretty  large  logs,  cleared  from  the  bark.  It  is  very 
hard,  compact,  heivy,  and  of  a  red  colour. 

Logwood  gives  out  its  colour  both  to  watery  and  spir- 
ituous menstrua,  but  not  readily  to  either  without  boiling;  it 
requires  to  be  chopped  fine  or  ground,  and  damped  with 
water  a  month  iTC  two  before  use,  when  it  gives  more  co- 
lour and  is  easitM'  extracted.  Rectified  spirit  extracts  the 
colour  more  easily,  and  from  a  larger  proportion  of  the  wood 
than  water  does. 

The  tinctures  both  in  water  and  in  spirit  are  of  a  fine  red, 
with  an  admixture,  particularly  in  the  water)^  one,  of  a 
violet  or  purple.  Volatile  alkaline  salts  or  spirits  incline 
the  colour  m^ore  to  purple.  The  vegetable  and  nitrous 
acids  render  it  pale,  the  vitriolic  and  marine  acidsdeepen  it. 
The  watery  decoction,  wrote  with  on  papen  loses  its  red- 
ness in  a  few  days  and  becomes  wholly  violet.  1  his  colour 
it  communicates  also  to  woollen  cloth  previously  prepar- 
ed by  boiling  with  a  solution  of  allum  and  tartar.  The  dye 
is  beautiful,  but  very  perishable.  It  is  often  used  by  the 
dyers  as  an  ingredient  in  compound  colour,  for  procuring 
certain  shades  which  are  not  easily  hit  by  other  materials. 


266  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

With  chalybeate  solutions  it  strikes  a  black  Hence  it  is 
employed  in  conjunction  with  those  liqm.rs  for  staining 
-wood  black  for  picture  frames,  &c.  and  with  the  addition  of 
galls  for  dying  cloth  and  hats  black.  The  black  dyes  in 
which  this  wood  is  an  ingredient,  have  a  pnrticular  lustre 
and  softness,  far  beyond  those  made  with  vitriol  and  galls 
alone.  The  beauty  however  which  it  here  imparts  is  not 
permanent,  any  more  than  its  own  natural  violet  dye. 

On  the  same  principle  it  improves  also  the-  lustre  and 
blackness  cf  writing  ink.  Ink  made  with  vitriol  and  galls 
does  not  attain  to  its  full  blackness,  till  aft^^r  it  has  lain 
some  time  upon  the  paper.  A  due  addition  cf  logwood  ren- 
ders it  of  a  deep  black  as  its  flows  from  the  pen  especially 
when  vinegar  or  white  wine  is  used  for  the  menstruum 

Dococtions  and  extracts  made  from  logwood  have  an 
ngreeable  sweetish  taste,  followed  by  a  slight  astringency. 
They  have  lately  been  introduced  into  medicine,  and  given 
with  success  in  cases  where  mild  restringcnts  are  required. 
Ihey  often  tioge  the  stools,  and  sometimes  the  urine  of  a 
red  colour. 

Of  Copperas  or  Green  Vitriol. — Copperas  is  an  extract  of 
iron  corroded  by  acids,  commonly  old  rusty  iron  and  vine- 
gar, this  is  the  reason  of  its  containing  so  great  a  prnportioji 
of  earth,  and  congeals  into  a  salt;  as  a  substitute  for  copperas 
take  of  the  filings  of  iron,  and  put  them  in  vinegar  and  let  it 
stand  a  m.onth,  you  will  have  a  much  purer  darkeriing  sub^ 
stance.  Tl«e  bestcopperasis  the  brown,  orthat  which  appears 
to  be  mouldy,  it  is  the  cream  of  the  mineral ;  the  deep  green 
will  make  the  brightest  blues  and  browns,  but  is  not  so 
strong  as  the  other,  and  will  not  make  so  good  a  black  ; 
that  of  a  pah;  greei»  colour  is  worth  but  little.  The  iron  is 
corroded  with  diiferent  acids,  as  oil  of  vitriol,  kc.  and  will 
answer  no  ])urpose  in  dying  :  copperas  ought  to  be  kept  in 
a  celler  where  it  is  not  very  damp  nor  open  that  the  acid 
may  evaporate. 

Oi  Nut  Galls  —Nut  galls  are  of  great  use  in  dying  black 
and  greys ;  galls  are  the  basis  in  the  ground  preparatory  to 
all  cotton  dying,  except  blue,  the  astringency  of  the  galls 
becomes  affixed  on  the  body  of  the  cotton,  and  the  colouring 
substance  immediately  adheres  to  it.  The  galls  come  from 
Aleppo  and  Smyrna  ;  the  Aleppo  galls  are  generally  the 
best,  they  come  highly  charged,  and  are  not  so  much  used 
as  they  ought  to  be  in  dying  :  some  barks  may  be  substitut- 
ed, as  v/ili  be  mentioned  ;  our  oak  galls  gathered  and  cur- 
ed in  their  season  will  answer  nearly  the  same  pur- 
pose, and  it  is  wished  that  those  who  have  oak  groves  would 
gather  them,  that  they  may  be  brought  into  use. 

Of  Sumac — Sumac  is   a  crooked  hhrub  with  spreading 
branches  of  different  heights^  and  grows  spontaneously  in 


DYER^S    COMPANIOX.  267 

many  parts  of  the  country.  It  is  !ised  in  three  different 
•ways;  when  the  wood  is  used  only,  the  bark  and  sap  must 
be  shaved  off,  as  there  is  a  glutinous  balsam  in  the  sap  and 
bark  which  will  adhere  to  the  cloth  and  will  form  a  res.n, 
that  will  have  a  bad  effect  on  the  goods;  the  other  methods 
are  to  cut  the  sprouts  and  branches  with  the  bobs  or  berries 
of  one  season's  growth,  make  or  cure  them  as  you  would  hay, 
without  wet,  and  put  them  up  for  use ;  in  the'  third  method 
the  process  is  the  same  in  cutting  and  curing,  it  is  then  con- 
veyed to  the  sumac  factory,  where  it  is  manufactured  and 
put  in  casks ;  this  is  the  best  for  common  use.  It  never 
ought  to  be  used  green,  on  account  of  the  gum,  which  evapo- 
rates or  disappears  in  the  curing  and  manufacturing.  The 
-wood  is  useful  in  drabs;  and  the  manufactured  in  blacks, 
browns,  6c c 

OF  BJiRKS  IJ\i'  GEJS^ERAL. 

BUTTERNUT  bark  is  the  best  colouring  substance  in 
North  America,  it  will  give  a  variety  of  shades,  and  if  used 
right  its  colour  is  durable ;  it  is  good  in  many  browns  but 
not  in  black.  It  is  best  to  use  it  when  green,  through 
the  autumn  and  winter  seasons  ;  the  wood  ought  to  be  cut 
in  the  last  of  November,  for  the  winter's  use,  and  housed, 
and  the  bark  shaved  off  as  you  want  to  use  it ;  in  using  it,  it 
should  be  cut  fine,  put  it  in  the  boiler  and  put  a  fire  under 
it  the  day  before  you  begin  vour  colouring,  that  the  liquor 
may  be  warm ;  immerse  the  goods  when  it  is  as  hot  as  you 
can  bear  the  hand  ;  never  suffer  it  to  boil,  and  the  colour 
will  be  permanent,  but  it  it  boils  the  colour  will  not  be  so 
bright,  the  shade  will  be  differt*nt  and  the  colour  will  not  be 
lasting  In  the  Spring  when  the  bark  will  slip,  peel  the 
bark  from  the  trees,  for  the  Summer's  use.  and  house  it  im- 
mediately after  peeling ;  never  cure  it  in  the  sun  ;  after  it  is 
dry  it  may  be  boiled,  yet  the  colour  will  not  be  so  lasting; 
by  using  it  ^reen  and  dry ,  boiling  and  not  boiling,  and  by  cut- 
ting it  at  difft*rent  seasons  of  the  year,  you  may  produce  a 
number  of  shades,  from  a  dark  smoke  to  an  orange  and  flesh 
colour.     It  is  good  in  smokes,  olives  and  snuff  colours. 

Of  Yellow  Oik  bark. — This  bark  gives  a  lasting  colour  and 
is  good  gre^en  or  dry.  bit  better  if  prepared  as  f«r  tanners, 
or  rasped  and  ground  ;  It  is  excellent  in  black,  very  good  in 
olives,  and  is  a  cleau  subst'iuce. 

Of  Walnut  orH  cliorv  bark  —This  is  much  the  same  as 
the  oak  bark,  but  its  colou*-  is  brighter,  the  dye  of  this  bark 
is  durable  and  will  answer  the  sariie  rmrpcse  as  the  oak:  the 
rind  or  husks  of  the  nut  are  n^ost  excellent. 

Of  White  Oak  bark — This  is  a  most  excellent  bark  on 
account  ^-f  its  astringencv,  its  colour  i?  lasting  and  may  be 
used  in  anv  dye  that  galls  are  used  in  as  a  substitute  aftej*  it 
is  dry  and  ground  ab  tor  tanners. 


268  APPE^^DIX  TO    THE 

Of  Alder  bark. — This  bark  is  good  and  its  impression  is 
durable  ;  it  is  good  in  black  and  alnn';'St  all  dark  colours  ; 
by  filling  up  the  ground  of  the  colour  it  leaves  it  bright. 

Of  Hemlock  bark. — Hemlock  is  a  very  good  bark  for 
colouring;  thf^  rap  should  be  taken  off;  it  is  good  green  or 
drv  ;  in  light  browns  it  gives  a  colour  of  a  reddish  cast 

Ot  Yellow  Birch,  V/hite  Ash  and  Sassafras  barks  —These 
are  good  in  light  browns  and  ash  colours,  if  us»d  right ;  the 
colours  will  be  clear  and  beautiful,  and  they  will  leave  the 
cloth  soft  and  nice. 

Of  Chesnut,  Maple  and  White  Birch  barks. — These 
produce  beautiful  browns  very  much  alike  ;  they  answer  in 
greys,  biit  the  colour  soon  fades.  It  is  to  be  ob^erved  that 
bark  of  the  roots  and  the  rinds  of  the  nuts,  give  much  mfjre 
colour  than  the  barks  of  the  bodies  and  may  be  used  the 
same  as  their  respective  trees. 

To  preserve  Dye- Stuffs  J rom  injuri>. 

STRICT  uttention  oughi  to  be  paid  to  this  branch  of  busi- 
ness, as  s  me  dye-stuff  will  loose  all  its  valuable  qualities, 
and  s  >me  by  collecting  filth  and  dirt  become  useless.  Wood 
if  the  stick  of  all  kinds  ought  to  be  kept  in  a  di7  celler, 
rasedfrom  the  ground  and  kept  from  dirt ;  all  yellow  wood 
when  chipped  or  ground  ought  to  be  put  in  casks  and  ex « 
eluded  from  the  air.  Camvvood  and  logwood  whether  chip- 
ped or  ground  ou^ht  to  stand  open  in  casks,  and  be  kept 
clean  as  it  improves  by  the  air  in  a  dry  celler ;  copperas 
may  be  treated  the  same  way.  Madder,  woad,  indigo,  and 
all  aieotics  should  be  kept  in  a  celler  and  excluded  the 
air,  as  it  destroys  all  their  active  volatile  substances.  All 
preparatory  salts  and  colouring  drugs  ought  to  have  close 
boxes,  to  keep  out  the  dirt  and  air.  All  liquid  substances 
must  be  put  in  glass  bottles,  stopped  close  with  glass  or  wax 
stoppers  Galls  and  all  rinds  and  birks  require  to  be  kept 
in  some  dry  place,  or  they  will  bt  liable  to  mould  and  mil- 
dew, which  will  destrov  all  their  colouring  substances,  ike 
The  Cxdtivation  of  Teaales. 

TEASLES  are  the  most  useful  and  necessary  to  dress 
fine  cloth  well,  and  without  them  cloth  cannot  be  well  nap- 
ped, or  a  good  pile  or  b')dy  raised.  Among  common  cloth- 
dressers  they  are  but  little  used  or  their  value  known,  I  may 
say  they  are  not  used  the  tenth  part  of  what  they  ought  to  be. 
This  plant  is  very  productive  both  in  burs  and  se-  ds,  and 
is  easily  cultivated;  the  seeds  ought  to  be  sown  or  jjlanted 
early  m  the  spring  ;  they  are  two  seasons  growing  to  ma- 
turity ;  when  the  plants  becomes  large  enough  to  transplant^ 
set  them  in  moist  rich  ground,  about  eighteen  inches  apart, 
h(^  them,  and  keep  them  clear  from  weeds ;  during  the 
su  nmer  they  will  have  fifteen  or  twenty  long  rou^h leaves; 
before  winter,  before  it  freezes  hard,  cover  the  plants  with 
brush,  and  spread  straw  over  ihem,  as  soon  as  winter  breaks 


l^YER^S   COMPANIO:^*  269 

take  ofF  the  brush  and  straw,  and  when  the  weeds  arise, 
hoe  them  twice  or  thrice,  by  June  they  will  begin  to  stalk 
and  branch  out  in  various  branches  ;  from  the  stalk  con.es 
out  long  leaves  within  six  or  eig;ht  inches  of  each  other,  and 
form  around  the  stalk,  resembling  a  dish  with  two  long  han- 
dles, and  standing  erect ;  in  this  bowl  or  bason  spring  two 
other  stalks;  it  supplies  itself  with  water  by  rains  and 
dews  in  this  bowl  ;  upon  the  end  of  each  branch  is  a  bur, 
•some  one  and  a  half  inches  diameter,  and  four  inches  long-p 
Eo  in  different  grades,  some  not  larger  than  the  end  of  the 
linger:  a  plant  frequently  produces  one  hundred  and  fifty 
burs,  of  which  fifty  will  be  fit  for  use;  they  rise  from  three 
to  four  feet ;  the  bur  is  curiously  set,  resembling  the 
honey-comb,  with  very  sharp  points,  hooking  towards  the 
fctalks.  After  the  blossoms  have  fallen  off,  is  the  time  to 
cut  them,  within  about  six  inches  of  the  stalks,  dry  tkenri 
%vell,  and  keep  them  from  wet,  as  the  water  will  ruin  them 
after  they  are  cut  and  laid  dov/n  ;  the  bur  slieds  its  water 
while  on  the  stalk:  by  this  method  the  factories  and  cloth- 
dressers  may  supply  themselves  with  the  most  useful  imple- 
ments for  dressing  cloth  :  the  mode  of  using  them  is  well 
known,  and  how  they  ought  to  be  used  v/iil  be  explained  in 
the  sequel.  It  is  but  a  short  time  since  they  have  become 
a  matter  of  note  and  speculation  among  us.  I  know  of  a 
man,  who  raised  one  crop  of  teasles  on  lialf  an  acre  of 
ground,  which  he  sold  at  wholesale  to  the  dealers  for  Four 
Hundred  Dollars  :  now  my  friends  use  economy^  save  your 
jnoney  and  raise  your  own  teasles,  and  you  will  have  thena 
when  you  want  them  :  if  you  once  get  in  the  use  of  thena 
and  have  any  desire  to  have  your  work  look  well,  you  will 
never  be  without  them  ;  they  ai^e  nature's  cards,  and  nature 
lias  provided  more  than  we  can  by  art. 

CHAP  VJIT. 

Of  Sorting  Wool 
THIS  13  an  important  branch  in  manufacturing  woolleh 
-;cloth,  as  there  are  more  than  one  hundred  different  qualities 
^f  wool :  every  fleece  ought  to  be  divided  in  four  parcels,  that 
on  the  neck  and  fore  shoulders  of  the  sheep,  is  the  finest  ; 
that  on  the  back  and  partly  on  the  sidess  the  next ;  on  the 
bellv,  the  vhird;  on  the  legs  and  hinder  parts,  the  fourth: 
in  this  form,  the  w^ool  ought  to  be  assorted,  from  all  species 
of  slieep.  Among  the  different  species  of  -Jieep,  are  the 
merino,  full  and  part  blood,  the  Enghsh,  the  common,  the 
Vienna,  the  cape  sheep,  &c.;  from  these  sheep  v^e  have  al- 
most innumerable  qualities  of  wool,  which  ought  to  bv  well 
assorted,  and  kept  separate  for  their  several  usts.  The  best 
v/or.l  for  superfine  broad  cloth,  is  the  thick  set,  fine  and  curly 
--T/coh  and  is  the  worst  to  work  ;  the  second  pick  of  the  i^. 

4  ^ 


270  APPE^^DIX  TO  THE 

blood  is  proper  to  match  witli  the  first  pick  of  the  half  blood  > 
followini^  this  rule,  except  that  what  is  on  the  legs  and  rump 
of  the  sheep,  which  is  only  fit  for  listing,  carpeting  and 
coarse  cloth-  There  is  another  quality  of  wool,  long,  silky 
and  open,  Uiis  ought  to  be  combed  into  worsted ;  from  this 
proceeds  a  variety  of  qualities,  that  may  be  wrought  into 
cloth  for  light  weaving' :  there  is  still  another  very  coarse 
and  hairy  wool,  this  ought  to  be  wrought  into  cloth,  for  bear- 
skin, lion-skin  andbaises.  Lamb's  wool  should  be  made  in- 
to cloth  for  flannels,  of  various  qualities,  it  v,  ill  be  much 
whiter,  will  felt  better  in  the  mill  and  nap  much  easier.  It 
requires  strict  attention  and  good  judgment  to  assort  wool; 
on  the  assorter  depends  all  the  beauty  or  ground  of  manu- 
facturing cloth  ;  by  mixmg  coari>e  and  fine  together  you 
have  no  distinction  in  the  quality  ;  one  pound  of  coarse  wool 
is  enough  to  destroy  the  quality  of  ten  pounds  of  fine,  6cc. 
Of  Scouring  or  IVasJung  of  Wool. 

This  is  another  very  important  branch,  and  very  much  ne« 
■glectedfor  three  reasons:  first)  the  wool  in  its  natural  state  is 
possessed  not  only  w^ith  the  animal  oil,  but  a  sort  of  gum  which 
preserves  the  wool  on  the  animal,  it  keeps  out  the  inclemen- 
cy of  the  weather,  the  heat  of  the  sun,  6cc.     If  not  divested 
of  this  before  use  it   gums  and  gluts  the  wool  and  cards,  it 
forms  with  the  oil  that  is   applied  for  carding,   a  sticking 
glutinous  gum  ^^^hich  destroys  the  active  life  of  the  wool  ; 
it  will  spin  slubby  and  you  cannot  have  good  yarn    Second,  if 
the  wool  is  to  be  coloured  it  is  veiy  injurious  to  many  dyes,  and 
it  requires  strict  attention  from  tlie  dyer,  as  it  will  soon  over^ 
set  the  blue  dve,  and  that  is  one  thing  why  so  many  fail 
in  their  blues.     And  thirdly,  to  admit  it  never  injures  any 
dye  ;  there   is  another  objection,   if  the  wool  is  coloured 
v/ith  any  part  of  the  gum  and  animal  oil,  it  forms  a  sort  of 
resin  that  becomes  affixed  in  the  bodies  and  fibres  of  the 
wool  by  the  hct  1  quor,  and  never  can  be  removed ;  and  the 
colour  will  remain  only  superficial.  Froni  this  the  dyers,  and 
inanufacturers  may  I6arn  the  cause  of  their. cloths  crocking. 
There    are  different  modes  of   scouring  wool  in  prac- 
iice,  1  shall  describe  all  those  worthy  of  noiice;    but  first 
point  out  the  way  I  conceive  to  be  the  best,  and  the  mode 
geuerally  practised  in  Europe    and  in  the  best  manufac- 
tories in  tlie  United  Stales  of  America. 

In  the  first  place  you  oueht  to  provide  yourself  with  a 
boiler  that  will  hold  three  barrels-,  it  is  better  to  have  it  of 
cast  iron,  as  tlie  alkali  and  aniiral  oil  will  corrode  the 
tx^pper  ;  have  this  set  near  your  stream  of  running  water,  or 
y<'ur  large  cistern  that  will  contain  two  hundred  hogsheads 
of  wateri  for  the  convenience  of  rincing ;  reference  ought 
to  be  had  for  convenience  ot  working  and  heating,  and  fur- 
ther they  both  ought  to  be  set  with  a  roof  over  the  sap  and 
open  to  the  sides,  that  the  air  may  pass  through  ;  otherwise 


dyer's  eoMPA^MON.  271 

tlie  volatile  substance  of  the  urine  will  nearly  take  the  breath, 
let  it  htand  adjoining  the  wash-house,  or  rincint^  place ;  then 
have  a  wash-box  made  four  feet  deep  and  four  feet  square, 
v.ith  a  sieve  or  strainer  about  one  foot  from  the  bottom,  with 
agate  or  sluice  way  to  take  the  water  out  at  pleasure.  Some 
use  a  basket  for  rincing  this  is  not  as  good  or  convenient. 
Have  your  box  placed  so  you  may  easily  let  the  water  into  it, 
have  another  box  like  a  'sieve  at   the  bottom  to   cast  the 
wool  in,  to  drain  after  rincing.    If  you  wish   to  make  des- 
patch in  drying,  have  a  press  with  a  screw  to  squeeze  the 
■water  all  out   and  spread   it  out  immediately  to  dry.   The 
scouring  of  wool   is  prrrperly  the  care  of  the  dyers,  let  it  be 
for  what  colour  it  vvill,  the  tilth  and  natural  oil  of  tiie  wool 
ought  to  be  extracted  audit  divested  of  all  the  gum  The  na-  ^ 
tural  oil  which  adheres  to  the  wool  preserves  it  in  the  ware- 
houses and  also  from  moths.     The  process  is  as  follows,  to 
eighteen  pails  full  of  water  put  six  pails  full  of  fermented 
sig  or  urine,  mix  them  together  in  the  boiler,  heat  as  hot  as 
you  can  bear  the  hand  in  it  without  scalding;  take  tweiUy 
pounds  of  wool  stir  this  gently  to  and  fro  with  sticks  for  that 
purpose  about  fifteen  minutes,  keeping  the  heat  the  same  ; 
take  it  up  in  a  basket,  squeeze  the  liquor  from  the  wool  into 
the  boiler,  then  cast  it  while  warm   into  the  wash-box,  set 
the  cold  water  to  it,   stir  it  backward   and  forward  with 
sticks  so  as  to  keep  the  vvool  open  ;  then  drain  off  this  wa- 
ter, fill  the  box  again  with  fair  water,  stir   as  before  till  the 
■wool  isall  open  and  clean;  then  with  apole  takethe  wool  out 
and  cast  it  in  the  other  box  to  drain  ;  while  this  is  rincing 
another  draught  may  be  put  in  the  boiler  and  thus  proceed 
till  the  whole  is  scoured:  as  the  liquor  wastes  fresh  is  to  be- 
added  of  one  part  sig  and  two  parts  water,  but  if  the  urine 
is  strong  and  old  you  may  add  three  parts  water.  A  man  will 
in  this  way  generally  scour  a  bale  of  wool  in  a  day,  if  it 
■weighs  two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  in  the  fat;  it  generally 
less  looses  sixty  pounds  in  scouring,  but  the   diminution  of 
•weight  varies    in  proportion  to   the   wool  being  more  ov 
scoured,  and  in  proportion  to  the  more  or  less  fat  contain- 
ed therein  ;  too  much  attention  cannot  be  paid  to  scouring 
as  it  is  better  disposed  for  the  reception  of  the  dyes.     This 
5s  the  best  method  in  scouring  and  is  followed  in   the  manu- 
factory of  Audley  in  Normandy,  where  cloths  are  beautifully 
manufactured. 

A  solution  of  soap  and  water  cleans  the  wool  of  the  filth 
and  oil;  there  is  one  objection  to  this,  it  felts  the  wool. 
Another  method  comes  nearest  to  the  urine,  to  twenty-four 
pails  full  of  water  take  four  ounces  pearlash  and  two  ounces 
oil  of  vitriol,  the  vitriol  neutralizes  the  pearlash  and  gives  life 
to  the  wool  and  leaves  it  clean ;  following  the  same  processiri 
cleaning  as  before  mentioned,  the  vitriol  is  a  mineral  oil,  and 
fQrmins  ^  solution  with  the  vegetable  alkali,  of  these  ic 


272  APPENDIX    TO    THB 

icvms  a  connection  near  in  substance  to  the  ammal  alka'ii 
of  fermented  urine^  2cc. 

0/  ^MJLinufaciuring'  Chl7i. 
BUT  little  remains  to  be  !>aid  on  this  subject,  more  than 
Vnat  is  given  in  the  precedinj^  work.  After  the  wool  is 
scoured  and  dyed,  have  it  looked  over,  take  from  it  all  the 
burs  and  dirt,  and  clip  all  the  dead  ends ;  to  sixteen  pounds 
of  wool  take  two  pounds  of  sweet  or  gotwi  sperm  oil ;  then 
pick  with-the  picker  or  hand,  to  mix  the  oil  with  tlie  wool 
to  leave  it  open  ;  then  card  it  into  rolls  with  a  nnachine,  or 
by  hand  cards,  your  cards  require  to  be  in  fineness  to  youp 
^vool ;  from  thence  have  it  spun  into  yam,  the  waff  or  filling 
slack  twisted  ;  then  weave  it  into  cloth ;  have  it  sleighed 
according  to  the  fineness  cf  the  yam,  and  closed  to  make  it 
sq^olre  as  much  waff  and  warp.  Be  cautions  in  ha\ing  good 
list  yam,  and  make  a  good  list  two  inches  wide  for  br^  ad 
cloth :  this  list  is  of  no  use  only  to  the  mill  man,  dyer  and  fin- 
isher, and  cloth  that  is  to  be  milled  cannot, be  handsomely 
finished  without  the  list ;  after  the  cloths  are  wove,  if  they 
are  not  ready  to  mill  they  must  be  overhauled  every  week 
or  ten  days,  to  give  them  air  and  keep  them  from  mildew  ; 
the  oil  and  size  ccilects^  dampness  and  causes  a  heat  or  fer- 
mentation which  will  mildew  without  air,  aiid  destroy  the 
life  cf  the  wool ;  when  the  cloth  is  wove  have  it  burled  or 
picked  of  all  the  knots,  burs  and  doubiers  carefully,  then  it 
"vriM  be  fit  for  the  mill. 

Of  MUBng  Claih. 

OF  the  fulling  mill — ITiere  are  various  fcrriiS  in  use.  and 
the  most  of  them  badly  constructed,  yet  I  shall  give  no  form, 
but  let  every  miilman  follow  his  own  choice;  I  will  only 
remark  that  the  falling  mill  rightly  constructed,  makes  the 
firmest  and  best  cloth,  and  is  the  most  diflBcult  mill  to  tend  ; 
the  crank  mills  are  the  best  to  scour  and  wash,  are  less  lia- 
ble to  damage  and  are  easier  tended*  On  the  whole,  the 
crank  mill  ought  to  have  the  preference.  There  are  differ- 
ent forms  cf  milling  and  scouring,  and  some  of  them  are  so 
bad  that  the  mill  man  ought  to  be  brought  to  the  seat  of  jus- 
tice and  prosecuted  for  fraud,  or  barred  the  privilege  of  mill- 
ing. They  will  fall  their  cloths  in  lies,  because  this  method 
is  cheaper  than  scap  :  this  is  a  pernicious  way  cf  doing  busi- 
ness ;  the  clcth  will  be  rough,  brittle  and  will  not  do  half 
the  service,  as  f  fulled  in  soap  ;  the  lie  will  start  the  grease; 
he  only  saves  to  himself  a  few  cents  while  he  robs  the  com- 
munity cf  Tiany  dollars.  Some  full  the  cloth  in  the  grease, 
till  it  is  sufficiently  milled ;  this  is  a  bad  practice,  it  \viIJ  leave 
the  cloth  loose,  and  it  does  not  uniformly  unite  in  felting;  you 
cannot  have  firm,  well  milled  chths  in  this  way,  althr  ugh  it 
will  appear  thic'^v.  Some  leave  ereae  in  c1  th»  Cnftt-r  they 
^e  .milled ;  this  is  a  piece  cf  insufferable  deceit  and  ^ove;!- 


273 

ness ;  when  in  the  cold  air,  such  cloths  will  appear  to  be 
thick,  and  firm,  when  warm  they  will  be  limsy  and  emit  a 
foetid  nasty  smell;  you  cannot  make  a  bright  colour  on 
them  ;  they  will  snuit,  and  never  can  be  finished  handsonne. 
will  always  be  catching  dirt,  and  will  not  do  half  the  service 
as  when  cleansed  from  the  grease. 

I  shall  now  give  the  mode  I  practise,  and  the  general 
mode  practised  in  England  and  France.  The  stock  of  cloth 
ought  to  be  in  proportion  to  your  mill,  and  the  mill  so  con- 
structed as  to  turn  the  cloth 'gradually,  every  time  the  ham- 
mer fetches  up  to  the  stock  For  the  first  milling'  or  scour- 
ingthe  filth  and  grease  out  of  the  cloth,  to  fifty  yards  of  broad 
cloth  or  eighty  pounds  weight,  take  two  pounds  of  pearlash, 
dissolve  in  one  gallon  of  warm  rain  or  river  water ;  then 
take  eight  gallons  of  well  fermented  urine,  mix  it  together, 
sprinkle  it  carefully  and  evenly  over  the  cloth  lill  the  liquoi? 
is  all  on,  then  lay  it  in  the  mill,  let  run  one  hour,  take  out, 
handle  over  and  speedily  lay  it  in  again,  iet  it  run  one  and  an 
half  hours  ;  take  it  out  and  stretch  the  cloth  all  over;  lay  it 
in  again»  run  till  it  forms  in  a  proper  body  ff  r  millinyi  ;  then 
turn  into  the  mill  gradually  five  or  six  pails  full  of  warm  wa- 
ter, as  warm  as  you  can  bear  the  hand  in  ;  when  it  is  all  in  a 
lather,  let  the  cold  water  run  on  the  cloth,  till  all  the  sig, 
filth  and  grease  is  washed  out :  if  the  cloth  tv/istsand  bincls 
up,  so  that  it  does  not  run  regular,  hand  over,  lay  it  in  again 
and  rince  till  clean  ;  then  take  it  out  on  a  scray,  hang  it  out 
to  dry  ;  when  dry,  take  it  to  the  barling  board,  look  the 
stock  of  cloth  all  over,  pick  all  the  knots,  burs,  and  cotton 
or  linen  specks,  that  remains  in  the  cloth  of  the  second 
burling;  at  this  time  after  scouring  may  be  seen  all  the 
defects,  that  will  be  injurious  in  finishing,  as  no  burling  ever 
ought  to  be  done  after  the  milling  is  finished:  this  is  the  first 
milling  or  scouring  it,  and  divesting  it  of  the  filth  and 
grease. 

Jlnother  method  about  as  good  for  scowincf. 

TAKE  for  a  stock  as  before,  eight  gallons  of  good  soft 
soap,  eight  gallons  of  hot  water,  and  eight  gallons  of  sig, 
mix  them  together;  sprinkle  it  over  the  cloth,  when  as  warm, 
as  you  can  bear  the  hand,  sufficient  to  wet  the  cloth,  let  run 
in  the  mill,  till  all  has  received  the  liquor  equally,  say  ten 
minutes;  take  out,  hand  over,  double  up  close  and  let  lay 
eight  or  ten  hours;  then  lay  it  in  the  mill,  run  one  hour,  ani 
manage  as  in  the  preceding,  and  it  will  divest  the  cloths  of 
their  filth,  grease,  &c. :  when  it  is  dry  and  burled,  it  is  ready 
for  the  stcond  milling.  Take  for  a  stock  as  before  describ- 
ed, white  hard  soap  as  made  at  Roxbury  without  rosin,  as 
the  rosin  is  mjurious  to  the  cloth ;  it  gluts  aiid  hardens  the 
wool,  that  it  will  not  appear  fine  Take  of  white  soap,  six 
pounds  shaved  up  fi' e,  i;ut  in  a  tub,  add  seven  gallons  of 
hot  water,  (but  not  boiling;,  stir  till  the  soap  is  ail  dissolved  ; 
Aa3 


274 


APPENDIX    TO  THE 


Avhen  it  is  as  warm  as  you  can  bear  the  hand,  sprinkle  k 
caretully  over  the  cloth  by  little  and  li  tie  ;  lay  it  in  the  milU 
let  it  run  one  h(  iir ;  if  not  wet  enou^h  add' a  little  more 
soap,  but  be  cauticus  and  not  have  it  too  wet  as  it  retards  the 
miUing  and  the  cloth  will  not  be  as  firm  :  have  it  so  wet  that 
you  may  easily  wring  out  the  soap  with  th  thumb  and  finger  ; 
as  it  dries  and  requires  soap,  add  n.ore  ;  Irequently  hand- 
ling over  and  stretching  the  cloth,  that  it  may  not  grow  or 
adhere;  have  your  eye  at  tht  mill,  handle  over  whenever 
it  does  not  turn  well,  sti  etch  once  in  an  hour  and  a  half  or 
two  hours,  and  add  siap  as  it  is  wanted,  till  all  the  soap  that 
is  prepared  is  on  if  required  :  manage  in  this  manner  till  you 
have  brought  your  clnth  to  a  right  thickness  and  it  is  well 
milled,  or  to  the  length  and  brt-adth  required.  When  it  is 
milled  to  your  l-king  pour  a  few  pails  of  warm  water  gently 
on  the  cloths,  then  rince  with  cold  water  till  all  the  soap  is 
extracted  and  the  water  runs  clear  and  clean  from  the  mill 
and  cloth  ;  take  it  out,  stretch  and  lay  it  smooth:  when  it  is 
^'fiady  for  dressin.?-  or  finishing. 

Some  use  soft  soap  for  milling,  but  this  is  a  bad  practice, 
is  it  is  to<i  hharp  and  fiery,  and  raises  the  wool  too  much  ; 
the  cloth  will  bu  loos^-  and  spungy  ;  the  white  hard  soap  is. 
the  reverse,  it  will  maice  the  doth  firm,  use  as  much  as  it 
v^ill  bear  and  the  cloth  will  be  much  better  and  firmer. 
Of  Fimshing  Cloth 

NOT  much  more  remains  to  be  said,  than  what  has 
been  said  in  the  former  work  ;  there  are  various  forms  \r\ 
practice,  the  same  may  be  said  with  respect  to  tools  and 
luachinery.  Let  every  workman  fix  on  his  own  form  ;  but 
this  much  may  be  said,the  beauty  of  the  cloth  much  depends 
after  it  is  well  milled  in  raising  the  nap,  and  that  ought  to 
be  done  with  teasels  with  the  cloth  wet.  It  ought  for  a  su- 
perfine cloth  to  have  three  good  nappings,  so  as  to  have  the 
pile  cover  the  thread  every  time  after  shearing  ;  have  it 
sheared  even  and  close  twice  ;  every  time  you  raise  on  the 
face  side,  alwavs  raise  the  nap  one  way  of  the  cloth,  that  is 
leading  toward  the  mark  ;  when  it  is  sheared  and  raised tha 
third  or  last  time  with  teasels  it  is  ready  for  dying.  If  not 
dyed  in  tlie  wool,  all  the  pile  should  be  raised  before  the 
oloth  is  dyed,  as  colouring  brittles  the  wool  and  you  can 
iiever  get  a  good  pile. after  it  is  dyed  ;  when  dyed  and 
cleaned  from  the  dye  stuff,  lay  the  nap  with  good  limber 
jack^  out  of  warm  water  straight  and  smooth,  or  with  a  gig 
as  a  substitute  for  jacks,  teasels  may  be  used  in  a  gig  also; 
then  stietch  it  on  the  bars  straight  and  smooth,  and  lay  the 
nap  with  a  brush  when  wet,  then  sheer  again  twice  or  three 
iiuies  on  the  face  as  it  requires  ;  observe  never  to  shear  the 
lists  heading  and  footings,  shear  once  on  the  back  side,  look 
it  over  and  se^  it  is  free  from  specks  and  defects  ;  then 
-'»rusii  It  thoroughly  wuh  a  brosh  and  s^4  board,  or  omery' 


dykr's  coMPxiNioN.  275- 

board  with  it  a  little  damped,  roll  it  hard  on  a  roller,  let  it 
remain  six  hours  then  fold  for  the  press.  If  fine  cloth  put 
it  in  good  smooth  press  papers  and  press  cold,  screw  it  very 
hard ;  if  coarse,  press  hot  and  do  not  screw  hard.  It  iu  best 
for  a  factory  to  have  plates  of  cast  iron  about  three-eighths 
of  an  inch  thick  to  place  between  each  draft,  have  them 
made  in  size  to  the  papers ;  put  between  each  di'aft  halt 
the  bize  of  the  papers,  heat  these  plates  in  a  stove  for  that 
purpose,  let  it  remain  in  the  press  twenty-four  hours,  thea 
shift  the  fold  ;  press  as  before,  take  it  cut  of  the  papers  antJ 
pack  fit  for  market. 

Of  Sulphuring  and  Whitening  Woollen  Cloth. 
A  TIGH'i'  convenient  room  is  necessary  for  this  purpose, 
it  should  be  prepared  with  shutters  or  scupper  holes  which 
may  be  thrown  open  when  necessary ;  and  drive  tanter 
hooks  in  the  Joyce  within  six  or  eight  inches  of  each 
other;  for  every  hundred  weight  of  woollen  cloth  take  ^ix 
pounds  of  sulphur,  have  a  number  of  chafing-dishes  or  other 
vessels  for  that  purpose,  place  them  at  an  equal  distance 
from  each  other  on  th  floor,  put  about  half  a  found  of  sul- 
phur in  each  vessel;  then  have  your  goods  prepared,  wet 
evenly  but  not  so  as  to  drip,  with  weak  soap-suds  of  white 
hard  soap,  then  hang  it  by  the  lists  straight  and  smooth 
on  the  hooks,  with  one  edge  hanging  d(wij  and  the  spaces 
between  each  piece  three  inches.  When  thus  prepared 
sprinkle  ashes  on  the  sulphur  and  set  fire  to  it,  shut  the  roonn 
tight  for  six  or  eight  hours,  then  throw  open  the  shutters  ov 
scupper  holes  to  let  the  sulphureous  vapour  blow  off,  foB 
was  any  person  to  enter  such  a  room  before  it  is  ventulated 
he  would  be  in  danger  of  suffixating  :  by  this  procf  dure 
woollen  cloth  may  be  rendered  as  white  as  India  shirting, 
i  will  give  a  few  reasons  for  this  effect,  the  sulphur  is'a 
mineral  possessed  of  a  great  share  of  acid,  and  the  acid 
evaporating  by  the  heat  sc  izes  immediately  on  the  body  of 
the  wool  and  makes  it  uniform  by  addmg  to  those  parts  thafc 
have  not  sufficient  fife  and  taking  from  those  that  have  too 
mucli,  andby  utiiting  in  all  the  body  of  the  wool  equahy  when 
it  enters  it  immediately  drives  out  tlie  alkali  of  soap,  and  all 
the  glutinous  gum  of  the  animal;  as  the  alkali  and  acid 
form  no  connection,  and  the  acid  will  corrode  the  alkali^;  it 
is  so  powerful  it  will  remove  all  dirt,  spots  and  defects  in 
the  cloth.  Wool  may  by  whitened  or  st  .ved  in  the  same 
manner,  by  preparing  perches  to  suspend  the  wool  loose, 
and  it  is  wished  it  was  put  in  general  practice,  as  it  divests 
it  of  all  the  crusty  def^d  gum  which  retards  the  dying  by 
glutting  the  fibres  of  the  wool,  and  wlien  it  is  thus  stoved  it 
divests  the  wool  of  all  its  dead  substance  and  gives  it  a  unij 
form  life  :  the  wool  has  equal  life  in  all  the  bodies  if  you 
ij^vest  it  ci  this  dead  gum  whicU  is  jaot  equal  and  uniJlbrip  ;• 


276  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

it  is  not  soluble  in  water  although  it  may  be  reinoveci 
by  a  preparation  of  the  alkali,  as  the  alkali  will  dissolve 
the  gum,  but  if  too  powerful  will  destroy  ihe  bodies  and 
animal  life  of  the  wool,  instead  of  giving  life  ;  the  acid 
if  too  powerful  will  have  near  the  same  effect ;  but  by 
applying  ithem  >n  this  weak  and  mild  way  they  neutrahze 
each  other,  and  for  the  same  reason  it  may  be  used  by 
a  solution  of  the  same  qualities  and  avoid  the  smell  of 
brimstone  after  this  proportion,  to  every  thirty  gallons  of 
water  take  one  pound  of  white  hard  soap,  or  two  ounces  of 
pearlash  heat  the  water  boiling  hot ;  then  add  four  <  unces 
of  oil  of  vitriol,  run  your  goods  thirty  minutes  and  ru^ce 
clean  in  the  mill.  Another  method  of  solution  for  whitening 
and  cleaning  woollen  goods  take  of  the  compound  as  for 
Prussian  blue  and  green,  only  add  double  the  quantity  of 
vitriol  you  do  for  green  ;  to  sixteen  pounds  take  two  tea- 
spoons full  of  compound,  add  warm  water  near  scalding 
hot,  mix  it  well  with  the  water  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  if 
it  does  not  blue  your  cloth  too  much  you  may  add  a  little 
more,  observe  not  to  blue  it  so  that  it  is  hardly  perceptable. 
This  is  the  best  method  for  flannels  and  all  other  white  wool- 
len goods  that  are  to  be  worn  white*  as  it  remains  white 
much  longer,  and  does  not  yellow  as  the  stoved.  The 
reason  of  this  is  the  fibres  are  a  little  filled  with  the  colouring 
atom  ;  while  on  the  otht^r  hand,  the  bodies  are  all  open  and 
exposed  to  the  vapours  of  the  air  and  becomes  affixed 
the  same  as  on  the  animal,  and  are  not  soluble  by  water,, 
but  must  be  removed  the  same  as  at  first,  6cc 

To  knoiv  -when  Cloth  has  been  ivell  Milledy  Finished  and  Dyed. 

WHEN  cloth  has  been  well  milled  nd  finished  in  a  prop- 
er manner  it  will  be  soft  and  firm  ;  being  shorn  even,  it  will 
present  you  a  short  thick  nap  which  lies  smooth  in  one  reg- 
ular direction  ;  by  drawuig  the  hand  the  way  the  nap  in- 
elines  it  will  feel  sleek  and  smooth  ;  move  th-.  hand  the  re- 
verse the  nap  will  feel  rouii^h  and  prickly  :  if  the  clorh  will 
bear  this  inspection,  you  may  concluue  the  workman  has 
done  his  duty.  The  workmanship  on  cloth,  that  is  designed 
for  handsome  dressing  may  be  discovered  by  the  eye  ;  if  it 
is  pressed  stifFlike  buckram,  if  the  nap  be  irregular  and  the 
face  of  the  cloth  be  rough,  the  workman  has  not  perforn^ed 
his  duty,  but  has  endeavoured  to  hide  his  failure  by  the 
press.  The  press  on  thick  cloth  is  of  no  importance  ;  cloth 
should  be  so  dressed  as  to  wear  as  neatly  without  as  with 
pressing :  the  only  reason  that  thick  cloths  are  pressed  is 
to  settle  the  bodies  of  the  wool,  and  make  the  threads  uni- 
formly smooth  and  firm,  conipact  and  finished  How- 
ever, if  the  cloth  has  not  been  regularly  manufactured 
before  it  is  dehvered  to  thed\er,  millnian  and  finisher,  it 
■will  be  beyond  their  power  to  fijuiish  it  neatly,    Wiio«Yf» 


2n 

':jvUl  inspect  eloth  in  conformity  to  the  foregoing  directions 
if^ay  easily  know  wiiether  the  worknnan  finisher  has  pel'-- 
formed  or  neglected  his  duty. 

Did  the  people  of  this  country  thus  inspect  their  cloths* 
unfaithful  and  ignorant  cloth  dressers  would  not  be  en^ploy- 
©d  ;  while  the  well  inforuied,  and  faithful  workman  (it  must 
be  acknowledged  we  have  some  as  good  and  able  workmen 
as  in  any  country  progressing  rapidly  in  the  improvenu  nts 
of  useful  arts,)  would  be  enabled  to  do  business  upon  a  more 
extensive  scale,  than  has  been  yet  attempted  in  America. 
If  cloths  were  manufactured  and  dressed  as  well  as  our' 
v/ool  will  admit,  gentlemen  in  general  would  prefer  the 
productions  of  their  own  country  to  those  of  Europe  :  but 
greatly  to  our  injury,  cloths  of  this  country  too  generally 
have  not  been  properly  treated  in  dying  and  dressing  :  one 
reason  is,  because  many  who  pretend  to  be  workmen  are 
entirely  ignorant  of  colours,  their  combinations,  and  the  phy- 
sical qualities  of  dye  stuff;  another  reason  that  rnay  be  ren- 
dered for  this  imposition  is,  because  many  attempt  to  dress 
cloth  before  they  are  acquainted  with  the  business,  and  con- 
sequently never  acquire  a  suitable  knowledge  of  it  It  would 
greatly  promote  the  interests  of  the  nation  as  well  as  that  of 
individuals  were  no  person  to  attempt  the  dying  and  finish- 
ing of  cloths,  until  he  had  acquired  a  suitable  information  by 
instruction  and  experience  :  gentlemen  of  literary  acquire- 
ments who  have  turned  their  attention  to  chymical  anal)  sis, 
acknowledge  that  the  arc  of  dying  is  as  difficult  as  it  is 
useful. 

A  great  proportion  of  the  people  being  unacquainted  with 
the  clothiers  and  dyer's  art,  have  been  satisfied  with  the 
workmen  they  employ,  though  their  goods  have  suffered 
through  the  ignorance  or  fraud  of  the  dyer,  millman  and 
finisher.  If  the  goods  present  a  fla^iiy  and  fanciful  colour, 
and  come  stiff  from  the  press,  many  people  suppose  they 
are  well  dressed  ;  but  the  stiffness  which  the  cloth  has  ac- 
quired from  a  hot  and  ckse  press  is  designed  merely  to  con- 
ceal the  faults  of  the  finisher.  The  populace  will  find  on 
•wearing  such  goods,  that  the  colour  will  soon  fade,  and  the 
cloth  soon  become  rough  and  appear  course,  whereas  if  the 
cloth  had  been  well  coloured  and  dressed,  it  would  have 
%vorn  smooth  as  long  as  the  garment  remained  whole  and 
decent. 

For  general  information  it  may  be  necessarv  to  point  out 
some  further  directions  that  any  person,  on  viewing  a  piece 
of  cloth  may  determine  whether  it  be  well  coloured  or  not. 

Of  Colours. — Some  reflect  a  beautiful  lustre  from  the  ex- 
tremities of  the  nap,  that  is  raised  on  cloths  ;  oth^  rs  present 
a  beautiful  body  from  the  grains  of  the  clcth,  but  afford  no 
lustre  ;  those  which  afford  a  lustre  or  refl«  ct  tie  rays  of 
light  that  incidentally  fall  upon  them,  are  the  deep  blues,  all 


278  APPENDIX  TO    THE,    hc. 

greens,  black,  red  browns,  purple/  cinnamons,  claref^ 
smoke,  snufF  and  olive  browns;  these  are  full  colours;  li 
well  dyed,  by  casting  the  eye  towards  the  light  level  with 
the  cloth,  the  hearts  of  vvoolthat  rise  up  on  it  will  appear 
bright  and  lively,  as  if  the  rays  of  light  shone  thronxh  them  : 
those  colours  which  by  this  experiment  appear  fiint  and 
languid,  you  may  de':ermine  have  not  received  their  com- 
plement of  dve  stuiT  and  are  not  well  coloured.  Scarlet 
affords  no  lustre,  but  if  well  dyed  tlie  body  of  the  cloth  will 
look  glaring,  beanng  slightly  on  the  orange;  crimson  pre- 
sents no  lustre,  but  if  well  coloured  gives  a  beautiful  body: 
some  reds  produces  a  lustre  and  glare  full  of  the  blaze. 
There  are  many  shades  of  different  colours  which  give  no 
lustre,  yet  they  appear  clear  and  bright. 

It  is  necessary  that  the  dve  should  equally  penetrate  the 
pores  of  the  wool,  then  the  cloth  will  with  few  exceptions 
as  to  colour,  if  well  dressed  appear  handsome  ;  but  if  the 
cloth  has  not  well  received  the  dye,  or  i  appears  daubed,  it 
%vill  discover  the  fraud  or  ignorance  of  the  dyer ;  but  if  it  be 
poorly  finished,  however  good  tiie  colour,  the  clotb  \vll^ 
soever  afford  even  a  deeeot  appe^snc^. 


END  OF  THE  APPENPIS-- 


THE 

DYER'S   COMPANION, 


PART  II. 


■CGiitaining  Many  Useful  Receijits* 

1.  *To  Jack  or  harden  Leather  for  Horseman^  s  Caps,  IJohters,  &€\ 
i  HAVE  found  ijy  experitiic  ,  thai  saddle  luaUier  is  the 
best  for  caps  and  holsters.  -In  this  case,  let  tlie  cap,  ^c.  be 
perfectly  dry  ;  and  on  the  block  when  jacked  ;  take  melt- 
ed rozin,  as  hot  as  is  convenient,  rub  it  on  with  asnjall  swab, 
then  pass  the  cap  back  and  forth  through  alight  blaze,  and 
hold  it  to  the  tire  till  it  strikes  in  ;  repeat  it  u  second  time. 
It  is  a  repellant  to  water,  and  k<  eps  the  work  in  its  place. 
For  leather  that  has  not  been  oiled,  add  to  three  ounces  of 
rozin,  one  ounce  of  bees-wax,  and  halt  a'n  ounce  of  tallow. 
2d.  To  make  Varnish  for  Leaifier, 
TAKE  three  ounces  of  ^un.  sht  Hack  made  fine,  and  one 
ounce  and  a  half  of  Venice  turpentine  put  them  into  one 
pint  of  double  rectified  spirits  of  wii  e,  place  the  bottle  in  hot 
sand  or  water  for  six  hours,  sh.ke  it  often,  and  apply  it 
Tvith  a  soft  brush  or  the  fingers  when  blood  warm.  Repeat 
it  three  or  four  times  in  the  course  of  twelve  hours.  If  you 
•wish  it  black  for  boots  or  sl.oes,  add  halt  an  ounce  of  ivy 
black  &c. 

3d.     To  make  Liquid  Blacking  for  Boots  and  Shoes, 
TAKEone  ounce  or  oil  of  vitnoi,  one  ounce  sweet  oil,  three 
ounces  of  copperas,  three   ounces  of   molasses,  nnx  them 
together,  let  it  stand  one  hour  ;  tiien  add  one  pint  of  vinegar 
shake  them  well  ttgether  and  it  will  bt  fit  f(ir  use. 
hth.    To  prepare  Feathers,  Fur  and  Hair,  to  receive  Med,  Telloiu  or 
Green. 
THIS  preparation  is  necessary  as  the  oil  must  be  extract- 
ed previous  to  colourjni;.     For  one  ounce   of  feathers,  take 
©ne  quart  of  water,  :idd  to  it  one  gill  of  sour  wh.  at  bran  wa- 
ter, one  ounce  of  cream  of  tartur.   and  half  an  ouuce   of 
allum  ;  simiiier  this  together  ;  then  after  the  feathers  are 
wnshed  and  nnced,  put  them  in,  let  it  stand   twelve  hours. 
iLeeping  the  liquor  hot.  "^ 

K.  b.  White  only  will  receive  the  above  colour^ 


2BQ(  USRFUL  RECEIPTS. 

5th.  To  Colour  Feathers,  Fur,  ^c.  Jlcd. 
TAKE  half  an  ounce  of  cochineal  niade  fine,  mix  it  Willi 
an  ounce  and  an  half  of  creann  of  tartar  to  one  quart  of  wa- 
ter ;  vyhen  simmering  hot,  add  a  tea-spoon-full,  let  it  stand 
ten  minutes,  then  put  it  in  the  feathers,  and  so  on  each  teu 
minutes,  until  exhausted.  In  all  colouring,  the  dye  must 
not  be  crowded,  and  soft  water  must  be  used.  After  the 
•whole  of  the  colouring  is  in,  let  it  stand  fifteen  minutes,  then 
^'ince  them  in  clear  water;  whilst  in  the  dye,  five  or  six 
drops  of  aquafortis  may  not  be  amiss  as  it  sets  the  colour 
jr.ore  on  the  scarlet. 

^th.  To  due  Brussels,  Red. 
^  TAKE  one  ounce  of  Brazil  wood  ground,  half  an  ounce  of 
raliiMo  quarter  ounce  oF  vermillion,  and  one  pint  of  vinegar, 
boii  well,  put  \n  the  brussels  when  hot  and  keep  them  in  till 
eooi,  and  you  will  obtain  the  colour  required. 
7ih.  To  Colour  Feathers,  Fur,  Hair,  and  Woollen  or  Silk,  Blue,  of 
any  shade. 
NO  preparation  is  necessary  except  washing  and  rincing; 
To  eight  ounces  of  oil  of  vitriol,  add  one  ounce  of  inxligo 
made  fine,  a  tea-spoonfuU  of  each  six  or  eight  minutes, 
shake  it  often  ;  it  must  stand  two  or  three  days  before  it  is 
fit  for  use  ;  indeed  the  longer  it  stands  the  better  :  one  tea- 
spoonfull  of  thistoonequartof  water,wheii  hot  as  is  convenient 
for  flesh  to  bear,  make  an  azure  blue  ;  by  adding  or  diminish- 
ing, any  shade  is  produced.  It  is  not  recommended  for 
woollen,  except  for  women^s  light  ^vear,  stockings,  Sec.  aa 
the  colour  is  not  very  durable  on  the  wool.  Those  light  ar- 
ticles being  easily  re-coloured,  it  will  be  found  the  most  con- 
venient and  expeditious  method  of  colouring,  as  ten  or  fif- 
teen minutes  is  sufficient  for  any  of  the  above  articles  to  co- 
lour. It  is  also  very  useful  to  revive  old  dye  that  has  decay- 
t5d  ;  also,  a  few  drops  put  into  rincing  water  for  silk,  stock* 
ings,  ^c  givi'S  the  primitive  clearness.  1  am  sure,  if  the 
use  of  this  was  known,  that  scarce  a  family  would  be  found 
T^Mthout  a  phial  of  it  in  their  house  ;  when  cold  let  it  be  stop- 
ed  tight  with  a  glass  or  wax  stopper. 

?M.  For  Blue  on  Bvjissels^ 
TAKE  one  ounce  of  girjd  indigo,  and  one  ounce  of  bis§, 
ft  small  fiub  of  allum  the  size  of  a  hazlenut,  one  quart 
of  gum  water,  simmer  tliem  all  together  and  dip  the  brussels 
\\rhenhot ;  you  may  substitute  one  qiiarter  of  a  pound  of  gum 
arable  dissolved  in  one  quart  of  hot  water  in  iieu  of  gum  wa- 
ter, let  them  lay  in  tht-  dye  two  hours ;  then  take  them  out, 
cl  cp  them  well  with  the  hands,  that  in  dying  you  may  im- 
bibe the  colour,  hang  them  up  to  dry  ;  if  different  shades  are 
required  you  may  change  the  order  of  tlie  dye.s,  always 
\]vi,ig  gum  water  or  gum  arabic  dissolved  as  before  ;  tor 
hLic'k,  use  logwood,  nutgalls,  copperas,  &c.    For  pui-pte 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  281 

fe-^e  Inke  and  indigo.  For  carnation  colours,  use  vermillion 
and  smalt.  For  yellow,  use  berries,  saifron  and  tartar,  ail 
mixed  and  dissolved  in  gum  water  ;  use  your  judgment  try 

€ind  see. 

9/^.    To  Colour  Feathers,  &c.  Fellow  and  Green, 

TAKE  two  pounds  of  lustick,  chip  it  line,  bjil  it  in  two 
gallons  of  water  four  hours,  keeping  the  quantity  of  water  ; 
then  take  out  the  chips,  and  add  oae  ounce  of  ciirht^n^y  root, 
and  an  ounce  of  allum  ;  boil  the  two  gallons  totv/c  quarts,  kt 
the  feathers  lie  in  the  dye  one  hour  to  make  them  green  ; 
add  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  the  oil  of  vitriol  and  indigo-  They 
require  to  be  only  rinced  aft^r  colouring. 

lOih.   For  Green  on  Brussels  and  Feathers. 

TAKE  one  ounce  of  verdigrease,  one  ounce  ^f  bees- wax, 
-one  ounce  of  tartar,  one  gill  of  vinegar,  one  quart  of  gum 
■water  or  four  ounces  of  gum  arabic  dissolved  in  7;ater  ;  mix 
them  all  together  and  heat  them,  then  take  the  brassels  and 
feathers  and  dip  them  in.hot  v/ater,  then  in  the  dve,clap  them 
T/ith  the  hand,  let  them  lie  two  hours  and  hang  them  to  dry. 
iith.    For  Lirfht  Green  on  Woollen. 

TAKE  of  the  juice  of  the  herb  called  hirsetail  to  which 
add  one  ounce  copperas,  one  ounce  of  verdi;<rease,  and  half 
an  ounce  of  allum,  heat  it  hot  and  handle  till  your  colour 
r.uits. 

\2th.    To  coUur  Hats  Green  on  the  under  side. 

TAKE  two  poimds  of  fustick,  cb  ip  it  fine,  put  ?t  into  two 
f^allons  of  soft  w^ater,  boil  it  four  hours  in  brass,  keeping 
nearly  the  quantity  of  water  ;  takeout  the  chips,  add  two 
ounces  of  curkemy  root,  and  one  ounce  of  allum  ;  boil  this 
to  three  pints,  brush  this  on  the  hats  twice  over,  then  add  to 
one  quart  of  this  yellow  liquor,  three  tea-spooniuls  of  the 
indigo  and  vitriol,  (as  mentioned  in  a  former  receipt)  this 
^vill  make  it  green,  brush  this  on  the  hat  two  or  three  times, 
leaving  time  between  for  the  hat  to  be  nearly  dry. 
13^;*.  7'o  Colour  Feathers,  &c.  Black. 
THIS  is  the  most  difficult  colour  to  set.  The  feathers 
must  lay  in  a  preparatory  liquor  twelve  hours  ;  as  follows — 
To  each  quart  of  water  add  one  tea-spoontul  of  aquafortis, 
it  must  be  kept  hot  the  whole  of  the  tiaie  :  then,  for  three 
ounces  of  feathers,  take  two  pounds  of  loc/vood  chipped  fine, 
and  one  pound  of  common  sumac,  put  these  into  three  gal- 
lons of  water  in  an  iron  kettle,  boil  it  four  or  five  hours,  take 
out  the  chips,  and  add  two  ounces  of  English  nutgalls 
pounded  fine ;  boil  the  three  gallons  to  thiee  quarts,  then 
put  in  the  feathers,  let  them  be  twelve  hours  ;  then  take 
thr*ee  ounces  of  conperas,and  one  ounce  of  verdigrease  made 
line,  put  them  into  half  a  pint  of  urine,  and  stir  it  on  a  mod- 
erate fire  ten  or  twelve  minutes ;  put  thia  to  the  dye,  it  will 
set  the  colour ;  let  them  be  in  twelve  hours  more>  then  they 
must  be  washed  or  rinced  terfectiy  clean,  it  is  posbiblte 
6b 


282  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

that  hatters  and  others  who  deal  in  black,  may  find  some* 
thind  in  this  to  their  advantage. 

N.  B  The  preceding  receipts  for  feathers,  fur,  &c.  are  in- 
tended for  hatters  as  well  as  dyers. 

14M.    To  Lacker  Brass  and  Tin-Ware. 

TAKE  gum  gamboge  one  ounce,  make  it  fine,  put  it  into 
four  ounces  spirits  of  wine,  let  it  be  kept  warm  four  hours : 
the  method  of  using  it  for  small  ware,  such  as  buckles  for 
harness,  3cc.  put  them  on  a  piece  of  sheet  iron,  heat  them 
hissing  hot,  then  dip  them  in  the  lacker  one  at  a  time,  as 
last  as  you  please.  For  lar^e  work,  let  the  ware  be  heat- 
ed, a])ply  the  lacker  with  a  fine  brush  ;  it  gives  a  most 
beautiful  yellow. 

15^/i.    To  soften  Steel— for  engravings  &c, 

MAKE  a  very  strong  lie,of  unslacked  lime  and  white  oak 
ashes,  of  each  an  equal  quantity  ;  put  in  the  steel,  let  it  lay 
fourteen  days — it  will  be  so  soft  aseasilv  tobe  cut  with  aknife. 
l6//i.     To  make  Oil-Cloth  for  Hats]  UinbrellaSy  &c. 

TAKE  one  pint  of  linseed  oil,  add  one  ounce  spirits  of 
•wine,  one  ounce  of  litharge  of  gold,  and  one  ounce  of  sugar  of 
lead,  simmer  them  together  half  an  hour  ;  take  Persian  or 
sarsnet,  tack  it  within  a  frame, a  common  case  knife  is  used 
in  laying  on  the  oil ;  twice  g^ing  over  is  sufficient. 
iTih     To  make  Oil-Cloth  for  Carpets. 

To  one  gill  of  dissolved  glue  add  one  gill  of  honey,  and 
one  pint  of  water,  simmer  these  together,  stir  in  it  five  or 
six  ounces  of  Spanish  white  ;  the  cloth  being  tacked  as 
above,  rub  this  on  till  the  pores  are  filled.  If  the  paint  be 
properly  prepared,  it  will  i 'either  break  nor  peal  ( ff 

IS th.     The  Chinese  inetJiodfor  rendering  Cloth -water  proof. 

TAKE  one  ounce  of  white  wax,  (melted)  add  one  quart 
cf  spirits  of  turpentine  ;  when  thoroughly  mixed  and  cold, 
then  dip  the  cloth  into  the  liquid  and  hang  it  up  to  dry  till  it 
is  thoroughly  dr}-. 

By  the  above  cheap  and  easy  method,  muslin,  as  well  as 
the  strongest  cloths,  will  be  rendered  quite  impenetrable  to 
the  hardest  rains ;  and  that  without  the  ingredients  used 
either  filling  up  the  pores  of  the  cloth  or  injuring,  in  the 
least,  its  texture,  or  damaging,  at  all,  the  most  brilliant  co- 
lours. 

19/A.    To  boil  Oil  for  Paijxting. 

To  one  gallon  of  oil,  add  one  ouncr  <;f  white  vitriol,  and 
an  ounce  of  sugar  of  lead,  a  quarter  at  a  time  ;  boil  one  hour. 
Or  this,  put  i!i"four  ounces  of  htharge  of  geld,  one  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  red  lead,  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  of 
lead  and  <  ne  ounce  of  rosin  made  fine  ;  heat  over  a  mode- 
rate fire  (but  not  burn),  stir  it  two  hours  ;  let  stand  and  set- 
tle ;  turn  it  off  with  crire.  and  leave  the  Ipcs. 
20/A.  To  make  Stone  Colour. 

TO  fourteen  pounds  ofwiutelead,  add  five  pounds  of  yel- 
low ochre,  and  one  ounce  of  ivory  black ;  you  may  vary 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  2S3 

the  shades,  by  adding  with  the  lead,  stone  yellow  and  Ver- 
million, and  mix  it  with  oil  to  your  liking. 
2isi,  Ta make  Pearl  Colour. 
To  twelve  pounds  of  white  lead,  add  one  pound  of  stone 
yellow,  half  an  ounce  of  Prussian  blue,  and  two  ounces  of 
white  vitriol  to  dry  the  paint*  Vitriol  is  used  in  all  paints 
for  drying. 

22  J.   To  make  deep  Blue. 

TO  three  pounds  ot  white  lead,  add  one  once  of  Prussian 
blue.  You  may  make  your  colour  light  or  dark,  by  vary- 
ing your  lead  and  blue. 

23  J.   To  make  Sea  green. 

To  two  pounds  of  stone  yellow,  add  one  ounce  of  Prussian 
blue. 

24M.    Verdlgrease  Green. 
TO  one  pound  of  verdi grease,  add  tv/o  ounces  of  white 
lead.     Prime  your  work  with  white  lead,  and  lamp  black 
ground  with  oil  in  proper  order. 

25//i.    Orange  Colour  for  Carpets. 
TO  four  pounds  of  stone  vcllow .  add  two  pounds  of  red  lead* 

2Gth.   Jo  Paint  Flesh  Colour  or  Peach  liloiv. 
TAKE   Vv'hite  and    red  lead,   grind  tUem  together  :  you 
inay    v.ake  any  shade  you  please  by  varying  the  rod  and 
white  lead. 

^7th.    To  Paint  a  Red  Brown. 
TAKE  two  pounds  of  Spanish  brown,  and  one  pound  of 
red  lead,  and  grind  thei!\  with  oil. 

28//t.   To  Paint  Black. 
TAKE  lamp-black,  and  a  small  quantity  of  Prussian  blue, 
and  grind  them  with  oil. 

29^A.  To  Slack  Verdigrease. 
TAKE  a  kettle  of  hot  wet  sand,  wrap  four  or  five  ounces 
of  verdigrease  in  a  cabbage  leaf,  put  as  many  of  ihose  par- 
cels in  the  sand  as  is  convenient,  leaving  two  or  three  inches 
between ;  let  them  be  in  four  hours,  keeping  the  sand  hot. 
The  verdigrease  being  thus  slacked,  a  man  may  gnnd  three 
times  the  quantity  in  a  day  as  of  unslacked. 
30^/z.  To  make  Vermillion. 
TAKE  of  quick-silver  eighteeii  pounds,  of  flour  of  sul- 
phur six  pounds  ;  melt  the  sulphur  in  an  earther*  pot,  and 
pour  in  the  quick-silver  gradually,  being  also  gently  warmed, 
and  stir.them  well  together  with  the  small  end  of  a  tobacco 
pipe.  But  if  from  the  effervescence,  on  adding  the  latter 
quantity  of  quick-silver,  they  take  fire,  extinguish  it  by 
tlirowing  a  wet  cloth  (which  should  be  had  ready)  over  the 
vessel.  When  the  mass  is  cold,  powder  it,  so  that  the  sev- 
eral parts  may  be  well  mixed  together.  But  it  is  not  neces- 
sary to  reduce  it,  by  nicer  levigation,  to  an  impalpable  state. 
Having  then  prepared  an  oblong  glass  body,  or  sublimer, 
by  coating  it  well  with  fire,  lute  over  the  whole  surface  of 
the  glass,  and  working  a  proper  rim  of  the  same  around  it. 


-ii4  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

by  which  it  may  be  hung  in  a  furnace,  in  such  a  manner  thp.t 
one  hah  of  it  may  be  exposed  to  Ihe  fire,  fix  it  in  a  proper 
far:.ace.  and  let  the  powdered  mass  be  put  into  it,  so  as  to 
nearly  All  I  the  part  that  is  within  the  furnace,  a  piece  of 
broken  tile  beiu^  laid  over  the  mouth  of  the  glass,  Sublime, 
then,  tlie  coutents,  w  ith  as  strong  a  heat  as  may  be  used 
without  blowing  the  fumes  of  the  vermilhon  out  of  the  mouth 
of  the  si'blimer.  VVhtn  the  subllvration  is  over,  which  may 
be  perceived  by  the  al^aternent  of  the  heat  towards  the  top 
of  the  body,  discontinue  the  fire ;  and  after  the  body  is  cold, 
take  it  out  of  the  furnace,  aiid  break  it ;  then  collect  together 
uli  the  parts  of  the  subU^iied  cake,  separating  caref-iUy  from 
them  any  dress  that  ma;^.  have  been  left  at  the  bottom  of  the 
body,  as  also  any  lighter  substance  that  may  have  been 
formed  in  the  neck,  and  appears  to  be  dissimilar  to  the  rest. 
Levi^<ate  the  mo-e  perfec't  part;  and  when  reduced  to  a 
line  powder,  it  will  be  vermilhon  proper  for  use  ;  but  on  the 
periectness  of  the  levigation  depends,  in  a  great  degree, 
the  brightness  and  goodness  of  ihe  vermillion.  In  order, 
therefore,  to  per^nriu  this,  it  is  necessary  that  two  or  three 
mills,  of  different  closeness  should  be  employed,  and  the  last 
should  be  of  steei,  and  set  as  finely  as  possible. 

S\st.   Of  Rose  Lake,  commonli^  called  Rose  Pink, 

TAKE  Brazil  wood  six  pounds,  or  three  pounds  of  Brazil 
and  three  pounds  of  peachy  wood.  Boil  them  an  hour  with 
three  gaHons  of  w^ater,  in  which  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
allum  is  dissolved.  Purify  then  the  fluid  by  straining  through 
flannel,  and  put  back  the  wood  into  the  boiler  with  the  same 
quantity  of  alhim,  and  proceed  as  before  ;  repeating  this  a 
third  time.  Mix  th^n  the  three  quapitities  of  tincture  to- 
gether, and  evaporate  them  till  only  two  quarts  of  fluid 
remain.  Prepare  in  the  mean  tune,  eight  pounds  of  chalk, 
by  washing  over ;  a  pound  of  allum  beji'g  put  into  the  water 
used  for  tliat  purpose,  which,  after  the  chalk  is  washed, 
must  be  poured  off,  and  supplied  by  a  fresh  quantity,  till  the 
chalk  be  freed  from  the  salt  formed  by  the  allum ;  after 
^vhich,  it  must  be  dried  to  the  consistence  of  stiff  clay.  The 
chalk  and  tincture,  as  above  prepared,  must  be  then  well 
mixed  together  by  grinding,  and  atterwards  laid  out  to  dry, 
•where  neither  the  sun  nor  cold  air  can  reach  it ;  though  if  it 
can  be  convenif^ntly  done,  a  gentle  heat  may  be  used. 

The  goodness  of  rose  pink  lies  chiefiy  in  the  brightness  of 
the  colour  and  fineness  of  the  substance  ;  which  last  quality 
depends  on  the  washing  well  the  chalk.  The  more  the  hue 
of  rose  pink  verges  on  the  true  crimson,  that  is  to  say,  the  less 
purple  it  is,  the  greater  its  value. 

32r/.  For  Prussiaji  Blue. 

TAKE  of  blood  anv  quantity,  and  evaporate  it  to  perfect 
dryness.  Of  this  dry  blood  powdered  take  six  pounds,  of  the 
best  peariash  two  pounds ;  mix  them  well  together  in  a 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  28S 

glass  or  stone  mortar,  and  then  put  the  mixed  matter  into 
large  crucibles  or  earthen  pots,  and  calcine  it  in  a  furnace, 
the  top  of  the  crucible  or  pot  beintr  covered  with  a  tile,  or 
other  such  convenient  thing,  but  not  luted.  The  calcination 
should  be  continued  so  long  as  any  flame  appears  to  issue 
from  the  matter,  or  rather  till  the  flame  becomes  very  slen- 
der and  blue ;  for  if  the  fire  be  very  strong,  a  small  flame 
would  arise  for  a  very  long  time,  and  a  great  part  of  the 
tinging  matter  would  be  dissipated  and  lost.  When  the 
matter  has  been  sufficiently  calcined,  take  the  vessels  which 
contain  it  out  of  the  fire,  and  as  quickly  as  possible  throw  it 
into  two  or  three  gallons  of  water  ;  and  as  it  soaks  there, 
break  it  with  a  wooden  spatula,  that  no  lumps  may  remain  ; 
put  them  in  a  proper  tin  vessel,  and  boil  it  for  the  space  of 
three  quarters  of  an  hour  or  more.  Filter  it  while  hot 
through  paper,  and  pass  some  water  through  the  filter  when 
It  is  run  dry,  to  wash  out  the  remainder  of  the  lixivium  of 
the  blood  and  pearl  ash:  the  earth  remaining  in  the  filter 
may  be  thrown  away.  In  the  mean  time,  dissolve  of  clean 
allum  four  pounds,  and  of  green  vitriol  t  r  copperas  two 
pounds,  in  three  gallons  of  water :  add  this  solution  gradual- 
ly to  the  filtered  lixivium,  so  long  as  any  efl'ervescence  ap- 
pears to  arise  on  the  mixture ;  but  when  no  ebullition  or 
ferment  follows  the  admixture,  cease  to  put  in  more.  Let 
the  mixture  then  stand  at  rest,  and  a  green  powder  will  be 
precipitated  ;  from  which,  when  it  has  thoroughly  subsided, 
the  clear  part  of  the  fluid  must  be  poured  off"  and  fresh 
>vater  put  in  its  place,  and  stirred  well  about  with  the  green 
powder ;  and  after  a  proper  time  of  settling,  ili.s  water  musfe 
be  poured  off  like  the  first.  Take  then  of  spirits  of  salta 
double  the  weight  ot  the  green  vitriol,  which  was  contained 
in  the  quantity  of  solution  of  vitriol  and  allum  added  to  the 
lixivium,  which  will  soon  turn  the  green  matter  to  a  blue 
colour ;  and  after  some  time,  add  a  proper  quantity  of 
•water,  and  wash  the  colour  in  the  same  manner  as  has  been 
directed  for  lake,  6cc.  and  when  properly  washed,  proceed  in 
the  same  manner  to  dry  it  in  lumps  ot  convenient  size. 

It  is  necessary,  in  all  painting,  that  all  paints  when  mixed 
together  with  the  oil,  to  grind  it  till  it  is  a  perfect  salve,  so 
as  when  you  rub  it  between  your  fingers  you  cannot  feel  any 
Tough.iess  with  it,  but  feel  perfectly  smouth  as  oil ;  then  it  is 
ground  fit  for  use — then  add  oil,  ai^d  stir  it  together  what  is 
necessary,  or  according  to  your  liking.  Oil  must  be  boiled 
m  all  painting. 

S3d.  To  lay  Gold  Leaf  on  Carved,  or  Moulding'  Work. 

TAKE  btont.  v^^low,  and  white  ieua  an  tqaal  quantity; 
grind  it  fine  with  old  oil:  brush  ^his  smooth  over  the  work 
twice;  let  stand  twenty-four  hours,  and  then  cut  your  leaf 
in  proper  form  on  a  leather  cushion  v/ith  a  sharp  knife, 
Uke  up  your  leaf  on  cotton-wo(il,  and  put  it  to  your  work  5 


286  USEFUL  RECEIPTS) 

a  light  brush  over  the  work  after  the  gold  is  on  Will  add  0 
its  beauty. 

34M.   MEMOIR 
On  a  method  of  Painiing  -with  JMilk — by  A.   A.  Cadet    de  Vaiix  : 

Member  of  the  Academical  Society  of  Sciences. — From  tJie  "  DC' 

cade  PUiosophlqucy 

I  PUBLISHED  in  the  "  Feuille  de  Cultivateur,"  but  at  a 
time  when  the  thoughts  of  every  one  were  absorbed  by  the 
}Dubhc  misfortunes,  a  singular  economical  proce-s  for  paint- 
ing which  the  wa^it  of  materials  induced  me  to  substitute 
instead  of  paintirig  in  distemper.  Take  skimmed  milk,  two 
quarts;  fresh  slacked  lime,  six  ounces;  oil  of  carraway,  or 
linseed,  or  nut,  four  ounces  ;  Spanish  white,  five  ounces. 
Put  the  11  mQ  into  a  vessel  of  stone  ware,  and  pour  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  milk  to  make  a  smooth  mixture  ;  then  add 
the  oil  by  degr^^^s,  stirring  the  mixture  with  a  small  wood- 
en spatula  ;  then  add  the  remainder  of  the  milk,  and  finally 
the  Spariiah  white.  Skimmed  milk,  in  summer,  is  often 
curdled  ;  but  this  is  of  no  consequence  to  our  purpose,  as  its 
fluidity  is  soon  restored  by  its  contact  with  hme.  It  is,  how- 
ever, absolutely  necessary  that  it  should  not  be  sour ;  for  in 
that  case  it  would  form  with  the  lime  a  kind  of  calcareous 
acetite,  susceptible  of  attracnng  moisture. 

The  lime  is  slacked  by  plun.^mg  it  into  water,  drawing  it 
out  and  leavin;^  it  to  fall  to  pieces  in  thtr  air.  It  is  indiffer- 
ent wliich  of  the  three  oils  above-mentioned  we  use  ;  how- 
ever, for  painting  white,  the  "il  of  carraway  is  to  be  pre- 
ferred, as  it  is  colourless.  For  painting  the  ochres,  the 
conamonest  lamp  oH  mav  be  nse^h  Ti.e  oil,  when  mixed 
-with  the  milk  and  lime,  disappears  ;  being  entirely  dissolv- 
ed by  the  lime,  w'th  which  it  forms  a  calcareous  soap.  The 
Spanish  white  must  be  crumbled,  and  gently  spread  upon 
the  surface  of  the  liquid,  which  it  gradually  imbibes,  and 
at  last  sinks  ;  it  must  then  be  stirred  with  a  slick.  This 
paint  is  coloured  like  distempf-.r,  witii  charcoal  levigated  in 
water,  yellow  ochre,  5cc.  Itisusedin  tlie  same  manner 
as  distemper.  The  quantity  above  ♦i^entioned  is  sufficient 
lor  painting  the  first  laver  of  six  toises,  t)r  fathoms. 

One  of  the  properties  of  my  paint,  wh'th  we  may  term 
milk  distemper  paint,  is,  that  it  will  keep  for  whole  months, 
and  require  neither  lime  nor  lire,  nor  even  manipulation  ; 
in  ten  minutes  we  may  p»'epare  enough  of  it  to  paint  a 
v/hole  house.  Ore  may  sleep  in  a  chamber  the  night  after 
dt  has  been  painted.  A  single  coating  is  sufficiert  for  places 
that  have  alieaciy  been  painted.  It  is  net  necessary  to  lay 
on  two,  unless  where  grease  spots  repel  the  first  coating  ; 
these  should  bt  rem  >vecl  ov  washing  them  with  strong  lime 
>Tater  or  a  lie  of  -  oap,  or  scr-iped    fF. 

New  wood  requires  two  coatincrs  One  coating  is  suffi- 
cient for  a  stair-ccise,  pas^sage,  or  ceiiing.    1  havQ  suice  air: 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  23? 

en  a  far  greater  degree  of  solidity  to  this  method  of  paint* 
ing  :  for  it  has  been  my  aim»  not  only  to  substitute  it  in  the 
place  of  painting  in  distemper,  but  also  of  oil  paint. 
35th.  Resinous  Milk  Paint, 
FOR  work  out  of  doors  1  add  to  the  proportions  of  the 
milk  distemper  painting,  two  ounces  of  slacked  lime,  two 
ounces  of  oil,  and  two  ounces  of  white  Burgundy  pitch.  The 
pitch  is  to  be  melted  in  oil  by  a  gentle  heat,  and  added  to 
the  smooth  mixture  of  milk  and  oil  In  cold  weather  the 
milk  ought  to  be  warmed  to  prevent  its  cooling  the  pitch 
too  suddenly,  and  to  facilitate  its  union  with  the  milk  of 
lime.  This  painting  has  some  analogy  with  that  known 
by  the  name  of  encaustic. 

I  have  employed  the  resinous  milk  paint  for  outside  win- 
dow shutters,  that  had  been  previously  painted  with  oil. 
The  cheapness  of  the  articles  for  this  paint,  makes  it  an 
important  object  for  those  people  that  have  large  wooden 
houses  and  fences.— An  experiment  has  been  made  with 
this  paint  in  this  country,  and  it  at  present  appears  to  an- 
swer perfectly  the  description  of  the  inventor. 

Z^tk  An  easy  and  cheap  method  to  Stain  Cherry  a  Mahogany 

Colour. 
TAKE  common  whitewash  of  lime  and  water,  white 
■wash  the  wood,  let  it  stand  perhaps  twenty-four  hours,  then 
rub  it  off,  after  polishing  the  wood  apply  linseed  oil.  By  using 
a  small  piece  oi:  wood  you  may  find  when  the  colour  suits, 
37M.    To  mahe  CJierryioood  the  Colour  of  Mahogany. 
TAKE  two  ounces  of  Spanuh  brown,  one  of  r  d  lead,  a> 
qu?.rter  of  an   ounce  of  vermillion  and  half  an  ounce  of 
s]3ruce  yellow,    all   ground  fine  and  strained  or  sifted  in 
clean  water  ;  mix  it  well  and  as  thick  as  it  will  pour  ;  then 
take  a  woollen  cloth  and  dip  it  thereto,  and  rub  your  work,  ' 
the  more  it  is  rubbed  the  better  it  will  appear  ;  wipe  off  the 
"Work,  varnish  and  pdish  it. 

38 M.  For  a  Dark  Mahogany  Colour. 
TAKE  two  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  boil  well  till  thft 
strength  is  well  out;  take  one  pint  of  the  liquor  and  put  it 
in  a  bottle :  then  take  two  ounces  of  dragon's  blood,  make  it 
fme  and  put  it  into  a  bottle,  and  add  a  pint  of  spirits  of  wine, 
■which  should  be  well  steeped,  when  settled  it  is  fit  for  use. 
Tirst  brush  the  wood  with  logwood  liquor  twice  over,  then 
-with  the  dragon's  blood  and  you  will  obtain  the  colour,  then 
varnish  or  polish  &c. 
39  M.  To  Stain  1  flute  Wood  the  colour  oj  Mahogony,  or  JSlaclc 

Walnut. 
TAKE  two  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  boil  three  hours  in 
water,  have  two  quarts  of  liquor;  then  add  lo  one  gallon  of 
■water  eight  ounces  of  madder,  let  it  stand  twelve  hours, 
keeping  it  warm,  strain  it  off.  then  mix  it  with  an  equal 
-quantity  of  the  logwood  liquor ;  it  is  applied  a§  other  stains; 


2S9  USEFUL  ^ECEIPTi^. 

when  hot  brushing  it  over,  and  letting  it  dry  each  tinie  till  it 
suits. 

4,0lh.   To  Stain  any  kind  of  JVhite  Wood  a  Dark  Red,  or  Ligh$ 
JManogany  Colour. 

TAKE  two  ounces  of  drugs  called  dragon's  blood,  make 
it  fine  ;  put  it  into  a  pint  of  double-rectified  spirits  of  wine  ; 
let  it  stand  six  or  seven  days,  shake  it  often,  bruhh  it  on  the 
"wood  till  the  shade  suits. 

41 5^  To  make  a  C/wrry  Re  J,  on  White  Wood  of  any  kind. 

TAKE  of  the  brightest  of  logwood  two  pounds,  boil  out 
the  strength,  take  out  the  chips,  add  a  table  spoonful  of  the 
rasping  of  gallant  gill  root,  boil  this. one  hour,  strain  the  dye 
and  boil  it  down  to  one  quarter  of  the  quantity  ;  brush  it  on 
the  wood  when  hot.  reoeat  it  till  the  colour  suits. 
42J.  The  best  Red  Stain  for  Wood. 

THIS  is  made  by  boiling  two  poTinds  of  red-wood  in  two 
gallons  of  water,  in  the  same  manner  as  logwood,  6cc.  is 
boiled;  it  is  necessary  to  boil  this  in  brass:  ^vhen  boiled 
down  to  a  proper  quantity,  add  one  ounce  of  cochineal,  and 
two  ounces  of  cream  of  tartar  made  fine ;  boil  this  half  an 
hour?  or  till  there  is  but  one  quart  of  the  liquor  ;  apply  it 
warm,  and  add  a  tea-spoonful  of  aquafortis. 

43//.  To  maka  Green,  on  any  kind  of  TJTiiie  Wood. 

TAKE  a  yellow  liquor  as  described  in  receipt  9th,  add  the 
vitriol  and  indigo,  less  or  more,  to  make  what  shade  is  want- 
ed. In  all  shades,  it  is  necessary  to  repeat  colouring  three 
or  four  times,  leaving  time  for  the  wood  to  dry  betwixt  each 
colouring ;  the  colour  grows  darker  by  standing. — The  wood 
•will  not  do  to  varnish  short  of  six  or  seven  days  after  staining. 
44^^.  To  Stain  Greeth 

TAKE  three  ounces  of  verdigreaee  powdered  ;  put  it  ia 
a  glass  bottle  with  a  pint  of  good  vinegar ;  let  stand  two 
days  with  often  shaking,  and  kept  warm  ;  brush  it  on  the 
wood  till  you  obtain  the  colour  required. 

^5th.  To  Stain  a  Light  Orange  Colour. 

TAKE  two  ouiices  of  curkemy  root  pulverized  and  put  ii> 
a  glass  bottle ;  add  to  it  a  pint  of  spirits  of  wine,  steep  it 
twenty-four  hours,  shake  it,  and  brush  over  till  it  pleases* 
46iA.  To  Stain  Wood  Black. 

TAKE  logwood  liquor  to  give  the  ground  work,  then  take 
two  ounces  of  English  nut  galls  made  fine,  put  this  in -one 
quart  of  water,  let  it  stand  four  days,  shake  it  often,  then 
brush  it  on,  three  or  four  times ;  when  almost  dry,  rub  it 
over  two  or  three  times  with  strong  copperas  water;  like 
other  stidns  it  cf'-ows  darker  bv  stand  ng. 

^7th.  Varnish  for  Wood  either  Stained  or  Painted. 
f  THLS  is  iiia-k'  the  same  as  in  receipt  ;3d,  except,  mstead 
of  three  ounces  ol  gum  shellack,  take  of  it  one  ounce  and  a 
half,  a.^d  ore  ounce  and  a  half  of  gum  sandrick  ;  it  must  be 
laid' With  a  soft  brush,  and  several  times  repeated  ;  atttr  it 
has  stood  three  or  four  days,  take  rotten  stone  made  fine  and 


USEFUt  RECEIPTS.  289 

sifted,  mix  it  with  water,  then  with  a  sponge  or  soft  linen, 
rub  it  on  till  sufficiently  polished, 

N-  B.  If  the  varnihh  should  be  too  thick,  you  may  soften 
it  with  spirits  of  turpentine. 

Uth.  Varnish. 

AN  excellent  varni^^h  has  recently  been  discovered,  made 
of  one  part  of  sandrac  not  pulverized,  and  two  parts  of 
spirits  of  wine,  made  cold  and  the  solution  promoted  by 
frequent  shaking. 

AS  the  method  of  preparing  Copal  Varnish,  is  generally 
kept  secret  by  those  who  are  acquainted  a\  ith  it,  and  as  a 
tradesman  who  is  desirous  of  knowing  it,  is  obliged  to  give 
some  tinriCs  an  hundred  dollars  to  another,  to  let  him  into 
the  secretf  and  that  upon  condition  of  not  imparting  it  to  any 
body  else — the  follmvirir  to  some  mr^y  Dot  be  unacceptable. 
A9ih.  To  make  Amber  or  Copal  Variiish. 

TAKE  of  white  rosin  four  drachms,  melt  it  over  a  fire  in 
a  glazed  vessel,  after  which  put  m  two  ounces  of  the  whitest 
amber  you  can  get,  finely  powdered  :  this  last  is  to  be  put  in 
gradually,  stirring  it  all  the  while  with  a  small  stick  over  a 
gentle  fire,  till  it  dissolves  ;  pouring  in  now  and  then  a  bttle 
oil  of  turpentine,  as  you  find  it  growing  stift',  and  continue 
this  till  your  amber  is  melted.  VVhen  the  varnish  has  been 
thus  made,pour  it  into  a  coarse  linen  bag,and  press  it  between 
two  hot  boards  of  oak,  or  flat  plates  of  iron.  Great  care 
must  be  taken  in  making  the  varnish,  to  not  set  the  house  on 
lire;  for  the  vapour  of  the  oil  of  turpentine  will  even  take 
fire  by  heat. — If  it  should  happen  so  to  do,  immediately 
cover  the  pot  with  a  board  or  any  thing  that  will  suffocate 
it  ;  by  which  means  it  will  be  p)ut  out. 

iOth.  A  Composition  for  giving  a    Beautiful  Polish  to  J\fahogany 
Fw^iiture. 

DISSOLVE  bees- wax  '^ equal  parts)  in  oil  of  turpentine, 
until  the  mixture  attain  the  consistency  of  paste. — After  the 
■wood  intended  to  be  polished  is  well  ckansed,  let  it  be  thinly 
covered  with  the  above  composition,  and  well  rubbed  with  a 
piece  of  oil  carpet,  until  no  dirt  will  adhere  to  its  surface. 
5\st.  To  Prepare  Glue  for  Use. 

TAKE  one  ounce  of  isinglass,  pounded  fine,  dissolve  four 
ounces  of  good  glue,  in  one  quart  of  water  and  strain  the 
isinglass  with  the  glue  into  a  small  pot  or  vessel  for  that 
purpose,  and  put  in  half  an  ounce  of  allum,  and  boil  them  all 
together. 

52(i.  To  make  an  excellent  Black  Ink  Porvder,  &c, 

TAKE  four  ounces  of  nut  galls  powdered,  two  ounces  of 
copperas  calcined,  half  an  ounce  o:  allum,  and  half  an  ounce 
of  gum  arabic,  aJl  powdered,  and  kept  close  from  the  air. 
To  make  Ink — The  above  is  sufficient  to  make  three 
pints  of  hik  Take  of  rain  or  river  water  one  quart,  one 
pint  of  vinegar,  or  sour  beer  ;  put  in  the  powder  and  shake 
well  and  kept  warm,  and  frequently  shook  together. 


5:90  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

53d.  For  Making  Black  Ink. 
TAKE  one  quart  ot  ram  water,  or  water  with  ripe  walnut 
sbooks  soaked  in  it,  or  the  water  soaked  with  oak  saw  dust ; 
strain  it  off  clean,  then  add  one  quarter  of  a  pound  ot  the  best 
bhie  galls,  two  ounces  of  good  copperas,  and  two  ounces  of 
gum  arabic  ;  put  it  in  a  bottle,  stop  tij;ht,  then  shake  it  well 
every  day  till  the  ink  is  fit  for  use — but  the  older  the  better. 
The  above  articles  must  all  be  pulverized,  before  they  are 
applied  to  the  water. 

To  keep  ink.   from  freezing,  apply  a  little  spirits  of  any 
kind.  To  keep  ink  from  moul  in;j.  apply  a  little  salt  therein. 
54M.  For  Red  Ink,  Uc. 
TAKE  three  pints  of  sour  beer  i^ratlitr  than  vinegar)  and 
four  ounces  of  ground  Brazil-wof  d;  simmer  them  together 
for  an  hour;  then  strain  off  and  bottle,  well  stopped,  for  use. 
Or  you  may  dissolve  half  an  ounce  of  gum  Senegal,  or 
arabic,  in  half  a  pmt  cf  water  ;  then  put  in  a  penny  worth  of 
Vermillion  ;  put  into  a  small  (.-arthen  vessel  and  pour  the  gum 
■water  to  it,  and  stir  it  well  till  it  is  well  Tr;ixed  together,  and 
it  wDlbe  fit  for  use  in  twenty-four  hours — but  requires  stir- 
ring before  using.    In  the  same  manner  and  form,  you  may 
make  any  other  coloured  ink,  as  blue,  green,  yellow, purple, 
^c.   For  blue,  use  indigo  or  Prussian  blue  ;  for  green,  take 
verdigrease  and  vinegar;  for  yellow,  use  curkemy  root  and 
allum  ;  for  purple,  use  Brazil  and  logwoods,  with  alhim  and 
a  little  pearlash.    It  is  necessary  to  steep  these  substitutes; 
strain  and  bottle  off,  add  the  gum  and  shake  well  together^ 
and  kept  warm. 
55  M.     Wonderful  Cure  of  the  Dropsy,  by  Btvarf  Elder,    From 

the  Massachusetts  Magazine. 
SOME  years  ago,  when  the  invalids  from  Chelsea  were 
ordered  to  garrison  at  Portsmouth,  there  was  among  them 
a  man  greviously  afflicted  with  the  dropsy.  He  had  already 
become  so  unwieldly  as  to  be  rendered  incapable  of  doing 
any  thing  whatsoever,  and  was  at  last  so  corpulent  that  ho. 
could  procure  no  clothes  to  fit  him. 

In  this  critical  situation,  an  herb  doctor  chanced  to  come 
by.  and  seeing  the  man  in  that  situation,  said,  *  Well,  friend, 
what  will  you  give  me  if  I  cure  you  .^'  The  poor  object, 
(who  had  already  spent  nearly  the  sum  of  forty  pounds  on 
the  medical  gentlemen,  without  relief)  eyeing  the  doctor 
with  a  look  of  contempt,  scarce  vouchsafed  to  return  him 
for  ansv/er,  that  his  cure  was  impossible — and  was  prepar- 
ing to  leave  him,  when  the  doctor,  stopping  him,  offered  to 
cure  him  for  a  glass  of  rum.  So  extraordinary  a  proposal 
did  not  fail  to  awaken  the  attention  of  the  man,  who  consid- 
ered the  extreme  reasonableness  of  the  deiuand,  followed 
the  doctor  without  speaking  a  word,  into  his  laboratory,  who 
taking  out  a  bottle  containing  a  black  liquid  presented  it  to 
his  patient,  teUing  him  to  drink  it  olT  that  day,  and  when 
gone,  to  fetch  his  bottle  for  more. 
Upop  a  curious  exjamiaation  of  the  contents  of  the  bottle, 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  291 

fielding  it  not  unpleasant  to  the  taste,  the  dropsical  man 
ivisely  concluded  there  could  be  no  harm  in  it,  if  there  was 
no  good ;  and  accordingly,  taking  the  bottle,  he  at  night 
(though  despairing  of  success)  ventured  to  drink  before  he 
went  to  bed  about  one  half  of  the  liquor,  and  immediately 
composed  himself  t6  rest.  But  he  had  scarcely  been  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  in  bed,  before  the  ^physic  operated  so 
strongly  that  he  was  obliged  to  get  up  and  search  for  the 
necessary  utensil,  'i'his  was  presently  filled — upon  which 
he  groped  about  for  the  one  belonging  to  his  comrade, 
which,  having  found,  he  also  filled^ —  and  (strange  to  tell)  a 
tub  which  was  in  the  next  room,  was  nearly  filled.  —So 
strong  an  evacuation  of  urine  produced,  as  we  may  well  sup- 
pose, a  very  material  alteration  ;  for  the  next  morning  he 
was  abl'^  to  buckle  his  shoes,  which  he  had  not  done  for  a 
long  time. 

He  Gid  not  fail  to  call  on  the  doctor  for  a  fresh  supply, 
which  having  obtahied,  he  continued  drinking  at  meals,  &c, 
with  such  good  effects,  that  he  was  completely  cured  in 
less  than  a  week. 

A  matter  of  such  importance  could  not  fail  to  attract 
the  attention  of  the  whole  regiment,  among  whom  I  chanced 
to  be  an  eye  witness  of  it ;  and  asked  him  what  the  liquid 
v/as — he  informed  me  that  it  was  a  decoction  made  of  th^ 
leaves  of  dwarf  elder.    Yours.  &c. 

56^^.  Cure  for  the  Dropsy, 
TAKE  a  six  quart  jug  of  old  hard  cider,  put  therein  a 
pint  of  mustard  seed,  one  double-handful  of  lignum  vitas 
shavings,  one  double -handful  of  horse  reddish  roots;  let 
them  simmer  together,  over  a  slow  fire,  forty-eight  hours, 
when  it  will  be  fit  for  use.  Take  a  tea-cup  full  of  this  liquid, 
three  times  a  day ;  and  it  .vill  work  off  the  disorder  by  urine, 
without  any  trouble  to  the  patient. 

A  most  surprising  instance  of  the  efficacy  of  this  simple 
medicine,  has  lately  taken  place  in  the  case  of  Mr  Wm. 
Wray,  of  Lunenburg,  who,  from  the  worst  state  of  the 
dropsy,  has  by  it  been  restored  to  perfect  health. 

FROM   A    PHILADELPHIA    PAPER. 
The  Editor  having  received  f' urn  a  friend  the  follo-ivin^  Uecipe  for 

tlie  Cure  of  a  Cancer,  is  induced  from  the  veracity  of  the  -writer ^ 

and  the  importance  of  such  a  remedy  to  many  ajh'cted  individuals. 

to  lay  it  bcfure  the  puhUc. 

57th.  ^  Ji   Safe  and  Ejffimcioiis  remedy  for   the  Cancer. 

TAKE  the  n.iirow  leafed  dock- root,  aiu.  buil  it  in  water 
till  It  be  quite  soft  then  bathe  the  part  affected  in  the  decoc- 
tion as  hot  as  can  bt  born  t!iree  or  four  times  a  day  ;  the 
root  must  then  be  marshed  and  applied  as  a  poultice. 

This  root  has  provf-d  an  efftctual  cure  in  many  instances; 
It  was  first  introduced  by  an  Indian  woman,  who  came  to 
th^^  house  of  a  person  in  the  country  vvho  was  much  affiicted 
with  a  cancer  in  her  mouth;  the  Indian  perceiving  some- 
ting  was  the  matter,  inqun-ed  what  it  was,  and  on  being  in- 


352  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

forntied,  said  she  would  care  her.  The  woman  Consent- 
ed to  a  tri^il,  though  with  little  hopes  of  success,  having 
previously  u^^ed  rnany  things  without  receiving  any  benefit. 
The  Indian  went  out  and  soon  returned  with  a  root,  which 
she  boiled  and  applied  as  above,  and  in  a  short  time  a  cure 
was  effected*  Tlie  Indian  was  very  careful  to  conceal  what 
these  roots  were,  and  refused  gi\ingany  inforn\ation  res- 
pecting them  ;  but  h'lppening  one  day  to  lay  some  ot  them 
down,  and  stepping  out,  the  woman  concealed  one  of  the 
roots,  which  she  planted,  and  soon  discovered  what  it  was, 
Not  long  after  a  person  in  that  neighbourhood  being  afflict- 
ed with  the  same  complaint  in  her  face,  she  informed  her 
of  the  remedy,  and  in  two  weeks  she  was  cured.  Some 
time  a'ter,  a  man  was  cured  of  a  confirmed  cancer  upon  ihc 
back  ot  his  hand  ;  after  suffering  much,  and  bemg  unable  to 
get  any  rest,  being  told  of  this  root,  it  was  procured  and 
prepared  for  him  ;  he  dipped  his  hand  in  the  water  as  hot 
as  he  could  bear  it  for  some  time  ;  the  root  was  then  applied 
as  a  poultice,  and  that  night  he  slept  comfortably,  and  in 
two  weeks  his  hand  was  entirely  cured. 

Daniel  Brovvm's  father,  ha\  ing  had  a  cancer  in  his  head, 
had  it  cut  out,  and  apparently  healed ;  but  some  of  the 
roots  remaining,  it  again  broke  out :  his  doctor  then  inform- 
ed him  that  nothing  more  could  be  done,  except  buniing 
it  out  with  hot  irons  ;  this  being  too  harsh  a  i^medy  to  sub- 
mit to,  he  was  much  discouraged.  The  dock  i^oot  was  soon 
aft^r  recommended,  and  it  cured  him  in  a  short  time. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  winter  of  1798,  a  hard  lump  ap- 
peared in  the  middle  of  my  under  lip,  and  in  a  short  time 
became  sorv^.  :  it  contiiiued  ui  tnat  situation  till  spring,  when 
it  increased  and  became  painful :  I  then  shewed  it  to  a  per- 
son of  skill,  and  soon  found  he  apprehended  it  to  be  cancer- 
ous ;  after  two  or  three  different  applications,  the  com- 
plamt  increased  and  spread  rapidly.  Lot  Trip,  having 
heiird  of  my  co^nplaint,  mentioned  this  root — I  called  on 
hv.n  to  know  the  particulars  of  it ;  he  ^-ave  me  the  necessa- 
ry information :  the  root  vvus  procuied,  and  used  in  the  man- 
ner above-mentioned,  taking  a  mouthful  of  water  in  which 
the  roots  were  boiled,  and  let  it  d»'op  over  aiy  lips  as  hot  as 
I  ct»uld  bear  it ;  this  i  did  three  or  four  times  a  day,  and 
then  kept  the  root  t)  it  a  day  and  a  nighi  ;  and  in  two  days 
the  pain  entire' v  If  ft  me.  and  in  twc  weeks  it  was  cured. 
5^ih.    Bemedy  for  Cancers. 

BURN  half  a  bush-J  or  ibi  oe  pecks  of  green  old  field  red 
oak  bark  to  ashes  ;  bvW  these  ashes  in  three  .'^■ill-'US  of  wa- 
ter until  reduced  to  one  ;  strain  that  one  gallon  off,  and  boil 
it  away  o  a  substance  similar  to  butter-milk  or  cream; 
apply  a  snnll  quantity  on  a  p^ece  of  silk  or  lint  to  the  can- 
cer, but  no  larger  r.han  the  plac-  or  part  affected.  I  have 
known  t>vo  plaisters  to  effect  a  cure,  where  the  cancer  lay  in  a 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  29S 

Jsropef  position  for  the  medicine  immediately  to  penetrate 
to  the  roots  of  it ;  otherwise,  it  may  takt^  several  plaisters, 
as  the  medicine  must  be  repeated  t  very  two  hours  until  the 
roots  of  the  cancer  are  killed  ;  then  apply  healhig,  salve, 
%vith  a  little  mercurial  ointment  mixed  thereon,  and  dress 
it  twice  a  day  until  cured,  which  will  certainly  be  the  cas:e 
in  twenty  or  thirty  days  at  farthest  1  have  kno^yn  seve- 
ral persons  entirely  relieved  bv  the  above  prescription  :  and 
one  in  particular,  after  two  attempts  by  a  skilful  physician 
to  remove  the  cancerous  parts  by  exusion. 

After  being  greatly  ahirmed  myself  from  a  cancer  about 
three  years  ago,  and  having  followed  some  time  the  direc- 
tions of  an  experienced  physician  I,  contrary  to  his  orders, 
and  notwithstanding  the  fears  of  my  family,  happily  applied 
two  plaisters  of  the  above  medicine,  and  no  symptoms  of  it 
have  appeared  since. 

59th.  Receipe  for  the  Cure  oj  the  Hydrophobia^  or  the  Bite  of  a 

Mad  Boj. 

[By  a  Physician  of  respectability  in  "NTew-York.] 

PLACE  a  blister  on  the  wound  immediately,  the  sooner 
the  better ;  and  even  if  this  has  been  neglected  till  the 
■wound  has  healed,  it  is  necessary  to  apply  it ;  also,  appl^ 
blisters  to  the  inside  of  the  ancles,  wrists,  and  between  the 
shoulders  of  the  patient,  keeping  two  running  at  a  iimt* 
Keep  the  patient  in  the  free  use  of  vinegar,  either  in  food  or 
drink ;  and  if  he  has  not  got  a  tight  room,  make  it  so  by 
hanging  up  blankets ;  then  boil  a  quart  or  two  of  vinegar, 
place  it  in  the  room  of  the  patient  on  a  chafing-dish  or  ket- 
tle of  coals,  and  let  the  patient  continue  in  the  room  fifteen 
minutes  at  a  time  morning  and  evening,  and  often  wet  his 
ancles,  feet  and  wrists  with  it. 

Give  him  three  or  four  doses  of  the  following  medicine  in 
the  course  of  three  weeks,  that  is  as  often  as  one  in  five  or 
six  days: — Calomel  eight  grains,  native  cinnabar  and  salt  o£ 
amber  each  four  grains,  to  each  dose,  to  be  taken  in  the 
moining  in  molasses ;  also,  give  him  a  decotion  of  tea,  made 
of  sarsapharilla  root  and  guiacum  chips,  (commonly  callect 
lignum  vhx  dust).  If  the  patient  is  actually  labouring  un- 
der the  symptoms  of  the  hydrophobia,  give  the  several  rem^ 
edies  more  frequently ;  if  soon  after  the  bite  as  above,  Itl 
the  patient  actually  has  the  disorder,  when  first  attended  to, 
repeat  the  remedies  until  he  recovers;  if  immediately  af« 
ter  the  bite,  it  will  be  necessary  to  attend  him  for  three 
weeks,  which  generally,  clears  him  from  infection.  His. 
diet  must  be  light  and  easy  of  digestion  generally,  though  he 
may  make  a  moderate  use  of  animal  food ;  but  he  must 
strictly  avoid  the  use  of  spirituous  liquors.  The  above  is  the' 
general  plan  I  follow.  LOT  TRIP. 

GOih.  Curejor  the  Bite  of  a  Mad  Dog. 

THE  roots  af  elecampane,  (the  plant  stav-worth)  poui\3'- 


291  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

ed  soft,  boiled  in  new  milk,  and  given  plentifully  to  any  thing 
that  is  bitten,  during  forty-eight  hours,  (keeping  the  subject 
from  all  other  food  have  been  found  an  effectual  remedy  for 
this  dreadful  and  frequently  fatal  maladv. — jV  Y.  F  fier, 
61 5/.    Cure  for  the  Bite  of  a  Mad  Do^. 

THE  following  reniedy  for  the  bite  of  a  mad  dog  is  re  - 
commended  in  the  French  papers  : — A  new  laid  egg  is  to 
be  beaten  up  and  put  into  a  frying-pan,  with  oil  of  olives, 
cold  drawn,  and  dressed,  but  not  too  dry.  Into  this  is  to  be 
put  a  great  quantity  of  powder  of  calcined  oyster  shells, 
Avhich  is  to  be  sprinkled  in  such  quantities  as  the  -mixture 
will  absorb.  This  is  to  be  given  as  a  dose  which  is  to  be 
repeated  for  nine  days  fasting;  and  the  wound  is  at  the  same 
time  to  be  washed  with  salt  water.  The  author  of  it  pro- 
fesses to  have  tried  it  with  repeated  success,  on  man,  dogs, 
and  other  animals. 

FROM  A  chahleston  paper. 
%1d.  The  Infallible  Cure  for  the  Dt/sentery. 

1  HAVE  been  acquainted  with  it  nearly  forty  years,  and 
i^ever  knew  it  to  fail,  i  have  cured  all  that  ever  had  it  on 
my  plantation,  and  myself  several  times.  Not  forty  days 
past,  I  was  afflicted  with  the  dysentary,  and  cured  myself 
•with  the  receipt  under  written.  x\bout  thirty  years  ago,  I 
cured  two  persons  in  Charleston,  who  had  been  under  the 
care  of  three  physicians,  and  it  had  baffled  their  art  and 
skill  ;  yet  this  receipt  cured  them  in  a  few  days.  The  pub- 
lic may  rely  on  the  efficacy  and  infalibility  of  the  receipt, 
viz  — As  soon  as  you  find  the  flux  is  bad  if  possible  before 
it  comes  to  the  dysentery,  drink  three  or  four  tea-cupfuls  of 
melted  suet  daily,  say  a  cup  full  every  three  or  four  hours; 
let  the  food  be  the  fiour  of  well  parched  Indian  corn  made 
into  a  pap  with  new  milk,  and  sweeten^  with  loaf  sugar  ; 
and  let  the  drink  be  nothing  else  but  a  sfBlig  tea  made  with 
chiped  logwood,  or  red  oak  bark,  and  sweetened  with  loaf 
sugar,  though  it  will  do  without  sweetening.  When  you  find 
it  is  checked,  mak<  the  tea  weaker  ;  should  it  stop  too  sud- 
den, take  a  little  salts.  With  the  above  simples,  I  can  cure 
thousands  without  the  loss  of  one.  The  cure  will  be  effect' 
ed  in  five,  six  or  seven  days. 

6Sd.  Cure  for  the  Dysentery. 

TAKE  of  the  roots  of  the  low-running  blackberry  vine, 
one  large  handful ;  make  a  strong  tea  cf  them  in  the  same 
manner  as  you  would  make  other  tea,  only  let  it  stand  on  the 
coals  a  little  longer. — Give  two  tea-cups  full  to  an  adult,  and 
one  to  a  child.  After  it  has  operated,  give  the  patient  a 
plenty  of  low  balm  tea,  or  CfUd  water  if  preferred.  Be  care- 
ful when  the  appetite  returns,  to  give  them  but  a  little  to  eat 
at  a  time,  and  that  as  often  as  the  appetite  calls,  and  no 
oftener  This  blackberry  root  tea  operates  as  a  thorough 
but  gentle  purge  in  this  complaint,  and  as  soon  as  it  operates, 


USEFUL  RECEIPTa  295 

it  changes  the  nature  of  the  stools ;  that  is,  instead  of  blood, 
^c.  the  stools  will  be  of  a  greenish  froth,  and  so  will  continue 
to  be  until  they  become  natural. 

64r^.  Cure  for  the  Dytentei^* 

TAKE  new  churned  butter  without  salt,  and  just  skim- 
ining  oil' the  curdy  part,  when  melted  over  a  clear  fire,  give 
two  spoonfuls  of  the  clarified  remainder,  twice  or  thrice 
within  a  day,  to  the  person  so  affected.  This  has  never 
failed  to  make  almosi  an  'nstant  cure 

&5th.  For  the  Dysentery  &  Colera,  or  Vomiting'. 

TAKE  oil  of  pen; ly royal,  two  drops  to  a  table-spoonful  of 
molasseSi  syrup  or  honey  ;  after  being  well  stirred  up,  let 
one  tea  spoonful  be  adininistered  every  hour  until  it  has  the 
desired  effect,  which  from  experience,  I  can  safely  assure 
the  public,  will  be  found  in  every  case  of  the  above  disorder, 
to  be  a  speedy  and  Cf^rtain  cure.  For  a  grown  person,  the 
dose  maybe  doubled,  and  given  in  the  sa^^ie  maner. 

From  an  Old  Lady, 
66 ^A.  An  Infallible  Cure  for  the  St.  Anthony's  Fire. 

I  AM  neither  pUysician,  surgeon,  apt)thecary  nor  nos- 
trum-monger, (says  a  correspondent)  but  totally  ignorant  of 
the  materia  medica,  except  that  I  have  swallowed  large 
draughts  of  it,  to  cure  me  of  painful  returns  of  St.  Anthony's 
Fire  at  spring  and  fall.  In  vain,  alis!  did  I  swallow;  for 
the  samt  was  constant  in  his  visit  at  the  accustomed  time, 
notwithstanding  the  repeated  prophecies  of  my  doctor  and 
apothecaries  to  the  contrary.  Fortunately  for  me,  ten 
years  since,  I  was  favoured  with  a  visit  from  a  good  ladv, 
during  the  spring  confine?  ent,  who  told  me,  if  I  would  at  the 
time,  take  the  i^\(\Q.T  tree  blossoms  and  in  the  spring  of  the 
year,  at  e  ich  seas  ju,  for  a  month,  drink  every  morning 
fasting,  half  a  pint  of  elder  flower  tea,  and  the  same  in  the 
afternoon,  that  it  would  drown  the  saint.  The  next  season 
of  the  elder  tree  blossoming.  I  followed  her  advice,  as  also 
the  spring  following,  and  have  done  so  these  nine  years; 
since  whidi  time,  the  saint  has  not  tormented  me  in  the  least. 
I  have  recommended  this  tea,  from  my  experience  of  its 
efficacy,  to  ten  of  my  fellow- sufferers  since  my  own  case, 
every  one  of  whom  has  found  it  a  specific  remedy. 

When  the  elder  tree  is  in  blossom,  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
the  flowers  should  be  gathered,  in  a  dry  day,  and  dried  with 
great  care  for  the  spring  use.  The  tea  is  made,  by  pouring 
a  quart  of  boifing  water  on  two  handfuls  of  elder  flowers, 
ivhen  green  ;  a  less  quantity  will  do  when  dry.  It  may  be 
drank  hot  or  cold,  as  best  suits  the  stomach.  Each  single 
blossom  is  not  to  be  picked  off,  but  the  heads  from  the  main 
stalks, 

67//z.  For  St.  Anthony'' s  Fire. 
TAKE  a  purjre  ;  and  anoint  with  he  marrow  of  mutton. 

68M.  An  admirable  Recipe  for  a  Consumption. 
TAKE  of  Madeira,  (or  good  generous  mountain)  wine, 


296  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

two  quarts;  balsnm  of  Gilead,  two  ounces;  albanum  in 
tears,  (gro>sly  powdered)  two  ounces,  flowers  of  Benjamia 
half  an  ou'^ce,  let  the  nr-ixture  stand  three  or  four  days  neav 
the  fire,  frequei.tly  shakii^^  ;  then  add  thereto,  of  Narbonne 
honey  four  -uiices.  extract  of  Canadian  nr.diden  hair  eight 
ounces,  shake  the  bottle  well,  and  strain  off  the  liquor  The 
dose  two  tea-spoonfuls,  to  be  taken  once  in  four  hours,  in 
colt- foot  tea  or  water,  ^weeiened  with  capillaire. 

N.  B.  The  Canadian  n>aiden-hair,  which  we  now  import 
from  thenct  in  great  plenty  is  infinitely  superior  to  that 
xv^hich  grows  in  England.  A  strong  infusion  made  of  this 
kerb,  sweetened  ith  honey  or  sugar  candv,  is  the  best 
ptisan  which  can  possibly  beVlrank  by  consumptive  people., 
and  will  of  itS'.  If  cure  anv  rect- nt  cou.  h. 

6DM.   Cure  for  the  Heart  Bum. 

EAT  two  cr  three  osears  ot  peach-stones,  of  any  kind  of 
peach,  and  it  will  effect  a  cure  immediately.  Those  which 
aj-t  dry  are  preferable. 

FROM    A    TIRGIJ^TA   PAPER. 

70th.  hifalhble  and  Effectual  Cwe  for  the  Stone. 

THROUGH  the  chynnel  ot  your  paper  I  request  a  publication  of 
the  following  cure  for  tiie  stone  by  djssokition.  The  gentleman  by 
•whose  consent  aud  desiie,  and  upon  whose  authority  tlie  subsequent 
facts  are  offered  to  the  pubhc,  is  a  Mr.  Richard  Major,  of  Loudoa 
count}^,  in  this  state,  minister  of  the  bapiist  society  ;  a  man  of  integ- 
rity, aiid  much  respected.  B^ing  in  coni])any  with  him  a  few  days 
hgo,  1  had  the  following  relation  from  his  own  mouth  :— - 

That  having  for  a  number  of  years  been  afflicted  with  that  painful 
disease,  he  was  at  length  ;ntoimed  that  a  certain  physician,  his  name 
unknown,  labouring  under  the  same  disease,  being  at  Berkley  spring, 
a  ne.i^ro  man  there  proffered  to  cure  him  :  This  heat  first  disregarded, 
but  expecting  a  speedy  dissolution  unless  some  aid  could  be  obtained, 
afterwards  sont  for  the  negro,  who  agreed  to  cure  him  for  three 
pounfls.  He  accordingly  undertook,  and  in  a  short  time  effectually 
eradicated  the  disorder.  The  ])hysician  then  gave  him  his  choice  otf 
freedom  by  purcljasein  lieu  of  the  contract  })etwi\'tthcm,on  condition 
he  would  disclose  the  means  of  the  cure ;  to  which  the  slave  agreed.  The 
receipt  is  the  expressed  juice  of  the  horse-mint  and  red  onions ;  one 
g'ill  of  each  to  be  taken  morning  and  evening  till  the  complaint  be 
removed.  That  he,  ^Ir.  Major,  being  urged  to  a  trial  of  the  above- 
mentioned  remedy,  sid^mitted  to  it,  though  with  some  reluctance,  as 
he  conceived  liis  term  of  life  to  be  but  short  at  most.  Not  having  it  m 
)iis  power  to  pj'ocure  green  mirjt,  so  as  to  get  the  juice,  he  used  instead 
thereof,  a  strong  decoction  of  the  dried  herb  :  in  other  respects  strictly 
adhereingto  thejprescrlption,  which  had  the  desired  effect.  He  began 
the  experiment  in  Atig^ust,  and  within  a  week  he  had  ocular  demon- 
stration of  dissolution  by  the  slightest  touch  of  a  particle  that  had 
passed  from  him,  which  continued  so  to  do  without  ])ain  or  the  least 
obstruction,  until  the  stone  was  entirely  dissolved,  an-*  the  cure  com- 
pletely effected  before  the  ensuing  sprinp:.  That  from  the  time  the  dis- 
order began  to  yield  as  aforesaid,  he  daily  reco^  ered  his  health,  strength 
»nd  6esh,  and  was  in  as  good  plight  as  ever,  age  excepted,  being  at  the 
4ime  seventy  two  years  of  age,  with  an  appearance  corresponding^ 
iWJth  his  own  account ;  and  as  he  farther  said^  witUeut  the  slighte&J' 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  29? 

srftack  of  the  disorder  from  the  time  he  began  to  use  the  above  means 
of  cure.    This,  at  his  request,  is  communicated  to  the  public  by 

DANIEL  ROBERDIEU. 
TUt.  Indian  Method  of  Curing  Spitting  of  Blood. 
[Com    unicated  in  a  letter  to  the  late  Doctor  Mead.'j 

THE  foliowing  case  is  a  very  extraordinary  one  ;  but  I  know  the 
gentleman  to  be  a  man  of  veracity,  and  had  this  account  from  his  owu 
mouth.  He  was  of  a  thin,  hectic  constitution,  and  laboured  under  a 
troublesome  pulmonary  cough  for  son. e  years  ;  at  last  he  was  taken 
with  an  haemoptoe,  for  which  he  had  the  best  advice  he  could  get  in 
Maryland,  but  he  grew  rather  worse  under  the  care  of  two  physicians 
who  attended  him  for  several  months;  and  at  lust  he  was  prevailed 
upofi  to  put  himself  under  the  care  ota  negro  fellow,  who  is  the  Ward 
of  Maryland  :  for  he  has  the  reputation  of  performing  some  extraor- 
dinary cures,  though  nature  has  the  chief  claim  to  them  :  but  indeed 
this  was  not  the  case  here. — In  short,  he  advised  the  gentleman  to  go 
into  a  warm  bath  twice  a  day,  and  sit  up  to  his  chin  in  it,  for  two  or 
three  minutes  at  a  time,  and  as  soon  as  he  came  out  to  dash  cold  wa- 
ter several  times  on  his  breast,  and  to  wear  flannel  next  his  skin.  This 
method  soon  relieved  the  gentleman  ;  and  when  I  lelt  Maryland,  which 
was  about  seven  or  eight  years  after  the  cure,  he  remained  fne  liona 
his  h  -moptoe,  eased  very  much  of  his  cough,  and  went  through  a  good 
deal  of  exercise. 

72  J.  A  Receipt  for  Bitters  to  prevent  the  Feve'  and  Ague^  and  all 
other  Fall  Fevers. 

TAKE  of  common  meadow  calamus  cut  into  small  pieces,  of  rue, 
wormwood  and  camomile,  or  centaury,  or  hoar-hound,  of  each  two 
ounces,  add  to  them  a  quart  of  spnng  M'ater,  and  take  a  wine  glass  full 
of  it  every  morning  fasting.  This  cheap  and  excellent  infusion  is  far 
more  effectual  than  raw  spirits,  ir  preventing  fevers,  and  never  sub- 
jects the  person  who  uses  it  to  an  offensive  breath,  or  to  the  danger  of 
contracting  a  love  for  spirituous  liquors. 

7Sd  A  certain  C we  for  Corns. 

TAKE  two  ivy  leaves  and  put  them  inte  vinegar  for  twenty-four 
hours  ;  apply  one  of  them  to  the  corn,  and  whenVou  find  its  viriue 
extracted,  apply  the  other,  and  it  will  effectually  and  speedily  remove 
the  corn  without  the  least  [)ain. 

7\th.    To  make  the  most  cheap  and  simple  Electric  JSlachine. 

TAKE  a  piece  of  plank  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  square,  place 
two  small  posts  ata  distance  that  will  take  the  length  of  a  bottle  that  will 
hold  perhaps  a  quart;  the  bottle  must  be  rouiid,  and  of  flint  j^lass, 
(they  may  be  had  at  the  apothecaries  for  3s.  or  3s.  and  6d.)  put 
in  a  hard  wooden  stopple,  at  the  other  end  stick  on  a  pice  of  hard 
wood  with  any  glutinous  matter,  such  as  shoemaker's  wax  or  the  like; 
make  a  small  hole  in  the  center  of  this  wood,  and  the  stoj)ple,  to  re-, 
ceive  two  points  which  come  thro'  the  posts ;  thus  the  bottle  being 
hung  in  a  rolling  position,  let  a  band  go  round  the  neck,  and  be  con- 
veyed to  a  wheel,  eight  or  nine  inches  over  which  turhs  with  a  crank. 
'J'hen  take  an  eight  ounce  vial,  coat  it  inside  and  out  with  tin  foil  ; 
this  may  be  stuck  on  with  stif!*  glue  or  candied  oil ;  the  viai  must 
have  a  large  nose,  or  it  will  be  difficult  to  coat  the  inside;  cork  it 
tight,  having  a  wire  run  through  the  n)iddle  of  the  cork  vith  a  cora- 
mon  leaden  bullet  on  the  top  ;' bind  the  wire  so  that  thQ  ball  may 
come  within  half  an  inch  of  the  cylinder  or  large  bottle  ;  place  it  in 
the  center  of  the  cylinder,  then  having  a  piece  of  deer-skin  leather 
sewed  up  and  stuffed  in  form  of  a  pincusion,  having  amalgarr  rub))ed 
on  ouc  side,  hold  it  to  the  cvlinder  opposite  to  the  ball  j  put  the  ma- 
C  c2 


C58  USEFUL  RECEfPTa 

<ihine  in  motion,  and  the  fire  will  colleci  and  fill  the  small  vial.  T« 
take  a  shock,  hold  the  viai  where  it  is  coaled  w»ih  one  hand,  touch 
the  ball  with  the  other.  It'  a  number  ot  persons  wish  to  take  a  shock 
at  once,  the  person  at  one  end  of  tlie  circle  holds  the  vial,  whilsi  tl»at 
on  the  other  touches  the  ball ;  the  vial  must  not  be  coated  within  one 
ifnch  of  the  top. 

To  make  amalgam,  ttko  half  an  ounce  of  speltar,  melt  it,  mix  with 
it  half  an  ounct  of  quick-silver  ;  whilst  warm,  grind  it  to  a  powder. 
This  machine  is  very  useful  where  a  stagnation  of  blofKl  or  any  kind 
of  numbness  has  taken  place  ;  for  sudden  pain,  ^c.  The  writer  has 
reason  to  speak  well  of  thiS  machine,  as  it  was  one  lime  the  means 
of  saving  his  life.  It  is  sincerely  wished  that  a  {)hysician  or  sonieothei* 
person  would  ket-p  one  in  each  town  ;  the  expence  is  no  more  than 
-seven  or  ei'^ht    hilinit^^s. 

75  th  To  Cure  Children  in  the  -worst  stage  of  Intoxication. 
THHl.  wi  iter  hrtS  twice  known  the  mstance   of  children,  msensible 
of  the  effect  ol  spjiituoiis  liquor,  drinking    to  that  degree  that  life  was 
despaired  of.  On  their  being  placed  in  a  tub  of  warm  water  over  their 
hips  and  a   tea-kettle  of  cohi  water  being  poured  on  their  head,  they 
immediately  recovered,  and  are  now  in  perfect  health.  If  this  recei])t 
may  be  the  means  of  saviogtht  Id'e  of  but  one    child  in  the  course 
of  time,  the  writer  will  thirik  hiiiself  r.chiy  paid  for  his  trouble. 
76.Vi.   Cure  for  the  Ague. 
DRINK  the  decoction,   (that  is  tlie  hoiLm,,  of  any  herb)    of  camo* 
iiaile,  and  sv^eeten  it  wit)»  treacle  ;  which   drmk  when  warm  in   bed- 
ojK   sweat  two  hours.     Or,  to  the  wrists  apply  a  mixture  of  rue,  mus- 
tard, and  ciiidiney  soot,  hy  way  of  piaister. 

11  th.    Curefor'Almondsof  the  Ears  fallen  doim. 
TAKE  a  litile    boie  arn.eniac  in   powder,  and   with  it  mix   some 
Teiiice  turpentine,  and  spread  it  on  sheep's  leather,  as   broad   as  a 
Slay,  and  apply  it  under  the  thr'iat  from  ear  to  ear. 
78M.  A  Cure  for  Frost  Bitten  Feet. 
TAKE  the  fat  of  a  dung-hill  fowl,  and  rub  the  place  or  places  af- 
fected  with  it,  niorning  and   evx"nir»g,  over  a  war^n  fire  ;  at  the  same 
time  wr:ipping  a  piece  f»f  woolen  clolii,  well  greased  with  the  s:<i<l  Pat, 
round  the   frost  bitten  parts.     I;,   two  or  three  days  they  will  feel  no 
ijain,  an<i  »!i  five  oi-  six  days  will  bt  quite  cured. 

jsTote. — If  the  inner  bark  of  llie  elder,  or  the  leaves  of  plantain,  are 
ffrst  simmered  in  sail,  fat  it  wi!l  !>e  the  better. 

7Sith.     To  Cure  theA^thma^  or  shortness  of  Breath 
TAKE  a  quart  of  acnia   vitse,  one  ounce  of  anniseed  bruised,  one 
ounce  of  liquorice  sliced,  arid  halTa  pound  of  stoned  raisins  ;  let  them 
eep  ten  dc^ysin   the  above-mentioned,  then  pour  it  off  into  a  bottle, 
v'lh  two  spoonfuls  of  fine  siigir,  and  stop  it  very  close. 

8()M.  To  rnuk^  Itch  Oint?7umt,  a  certain  Cure  for  the  lick, 
TAKE  owe  ou-ce  of  «jum  arahic,  dissolve  in  twogils  of  water ;  then 
ake  one  pour-d  of  fre^h  butter,  put  it  in  with  gum  water,  melt  and  try 
I  together  till  the  wftter  is  out;  then  let  stand  till  no  more  than  blood 
vvarm,  then  af'd  two  ounces  of  spirits  of  turpentine  and  two  ounces  of 
i:ed  preciv)itate,  stir  and  mix  them  with  the  butter  and  gum,  and  box 
it  up  to  keep  it  ft  om  the  air,  an  i  fit  for  use.  By  carrying  a  box  of  it, 
it  will  be  a  preventitive  a^rninst  the  disorder  :  it  gives  no  disagreeable 
snicU  from  the  use  of  it.  A'ou  may  rub  a  little  round  your  knees  and 
eli^ows,  and  you  may  sleep  w^tii  a  person  actually  afflicted  with  the 
-.tells  without  dangfr  of  cstching  the  disorder  :  to  cure  the  itch,  take 
'iiis  ontment.  rnb  ofr  the  ^^irnples,  warm  the  ointment  if  the  weather 
*?  cpltl,  and  Fub  it  oyeif  ^eip,  aud  coatinuc  il  three  tUftQS  la  a  vcekj 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  293 

till  the  skin  becomes  smooth,  which  will  be  in  a  week  or  ten  days  j 
oint  whe\i  gomg  to  bed  :  it  is  well  to  have  clean  linen,  &cc. 
81s^  Cure  for  the  Salt  Rheum. 

TAKE  one  ounce  ot  salts  of  tai  tar,  dissoUe  it  in  twenty-six  spoonfuls 
of  fair  water ;  then  take  one  spoonful  or  pure  lime  juice  and  add  a 
lump  of  loaf  sugar  as  large  as  a  walnut,  let  it  dissolve  ;  then  add  a 
spoonful  of  the  tartar  liquor  dissolved  as  above,  and  give  it  the  patient 
before  eating,  twice  in  twenty -four  hours. 

82rf.  An  effectual  Cure  for  the  Rheumatism. 

WHEN  the  patient  js  aiiiicted  with  this  pamfui  disease,  take  the 
tow  of  flax,  and  twist  a  large  slack  cord,  and  fasten  it  round  trie  part 
affected  and  contnme  wearing  it  next  the  skin  ;  it  will  effect  a  cure  ; 
have  faith  try  it  and  see. 

83//i.     Good  Cider  as  easily  made  as  bad. 

TO  make  cider  of  early  or  late  fruit,  that  will  keep  a  length  of^ 
time,  without  the  trouble  of  frequent  drawing  off— Take  the  largest 
cask  you  have  on  your  farm,  from  a  barrel  upwards  ;  put  a  few  sticks 
in  the  bottom,  in  the  manner  that  house-wives  set  a  lye  cask,  so  as 
to  raise  :\  vacancy  of  two  or  three  niches  \\  om  the  bottom  ol  the  cask ; 
then  lay  orer  these  st'cks  either  a  clean  old  blanket,  or  if  that  be  not 
at  hand,  a  quantity  of  swindling  flax,  so  as  to  make  a  co-a  of  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  then  ])ut  in  so  much  cleaned  washed  sand, 
from  a  beach  or  road,  as  will  cover  about  six  or  eight  inches  m  dcptU 
of  your  vessel ;  pass  all  your  cider  from  the  press  through  a  table 
cloth,  suspended  by  the  corners,  which  will  take  out  the  pummice  ; 
and  pour  the  liquor  gently  upon  the  sand,  through  which  it  must  be 
suffered  to  filter  gradually,  and  as  it  runs  off  by  a  tap  inserted  in  youB 
vessel,  in  the  vacancy  made  by  the  sticks  at  the  bottom,  it  will  be 
found  by  this  easy  method,  as  clear  cider  can  be  expected  by  the  most 
laborious  process  of  refining;  and  all  the  mucilagmous  matter,  which 
causes  the  fermentation  and  souring  of  cider,  will  be  separated  so  as 
to  prevent  that  disagreeable  consequence. 

N.  B.  Other  methods  may  be  easily  invented  fo.  passing  the  cidei? 
tlirough  the  sand,  which  is  the  only  essential  part  of  the  above  piocesSk 
84^/i.      Method  ofinaking  Apple  Brandy. 

The  following  receipt  for  makinij  Apple  Brandy,  was  communicat- 
e«l  by  Joseph  Cofjper,  esq.  of  Gloucester  county,  New-Jersy,  accom- 
panied with  a  specimen  of  the  liquor,  made  ni  the  manner  he  re- 
presented. The  liquor  is  mild,  mellow  and  pleasent  ;  and  greatly 
superior  to  a])ple  spirits  procured  by  the  common  process 

Put  the  cider,  previous  to  ilistillin.^,  into  vessels  free  from  must  OB 
anell,  and  keep  it  till  in  the  state  which  is  commonly  called  good, 
sound  cider  ;  but  not  till  sour,  as  that  lessens  the  quantity  and  injures 
fchequahty  of  the  spirit.  In  the  distillation,  let  it  run  perfectly  cool  from 
the  worm,  and  in  the  first  time  ofdistilhng,  not  longer  than  it  will 
flash  when  cast  on  the  still  head  and  alighted  candle  applied  under  it 
In  the  second  distillation,  shift  the  vessel  as  soon  as  the  spirit  runs  be- 
low proof,  or  has  a  disagreeable  smell  or  taste,  and  put  what  runs  af- 
ter with  ihe  low  wines.  By  this  method,  the  spirit,  if  distilled  from 
good  cider,  w  II  take  nearly  or  quite  one  third  of  its  quantity  to  bring 
it  to  proof;  for  which  purpose,  take  the  last  running  from  a  cheese 
of  good  water  cider,  <lirect  from  the  press,  UMfermente<!,  and  m  forty- 
eight  hours  the  spirit  will  be  milder  and  better  flavoured  than  in  seve- 
jal  years  standing  if  manufactured  in  the  common  way.  When  the 
spirit  is  drawn  off,  which  may  be  done  in  fi  e  or  six  days,  there  wdl 
"ke  a  jelly,  at  the  bottom,  which  may  be  dlstillf^d  again,  or  put  into  the 
lest  «hla-  9r  WS«j  U>r:  xaakiog  «iUeK  royal,  i^  b^iDg  better  to  ihe  poy^- 


300  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

pose  that  the  clear  spirit,  as  it  will  greatly  facilitate  in   refinin*  the 
liquor.  JOSEPH  COOPER. 

S5 th.  A  Receipt  to  make  an  excellent  American  iVine  :  commu' 
mealed  to  the  UurUngton  Society  far  promoting  Agriculture  and 
Doiriestic  jyianufactories  ;  by  Joseph  Cooper,  esq.  oj  Gloucester 
county^  JVew-Jersy. 

I  PU  r  a  quantity  of  the  comb,  from  which  the  honey  had  been 
drained,  into  a  tub  to  which  1  added  a  barrel  of  cider  immediately 
from  the  press  :  This  mixture  was  well  stirred,  and  left  to  soak  for 
one  night.  It  was  then  strained,  before  a  fermentation  had  taken 
place  ;  and  honey  was  added  until  the  strength  of  the  hquor  was  suffi- 
cient to  bear  an  egg.  It  was  then  put  into  a  barrel  ;  ai»d  after  the 
fermentation  commenced,  tlie  cask  was  filled  every  day,  for  three 
or  four  days,  thai  the  filth  might  work  out  the  bung  hole  When  the 
ferinentatiou  moderated,  I  put  the  bung  in  loosely,  lest  stopping  it  tight 
might  cause  the  cask  to  burst.  At  the  end  of  five  or  six  weeks  the 
liqu'ir  was  drawn  ofl^into  a  tub,  and  the  white  of  eight  eggSj  well  beat 
up,  with  a  pint  of  c  can  sand,  were  put  into  it— T  then  added  a  gallon 
of  cider  spirit  ;  and  after  mixing  the  whole  together,  I  returned  it  into 
the  cask,  which  was  well  cleansed,  bunged  it  tight  and  placed  it  in  a 
proper  situation  for  racking  off  when  fine.  In  the  month  of  April  fol- 
lowing, I  drew  it  off  into  kegs,  for  use  ;  and  found  it  equal,  in  my  opin- 
ion, to  almost  any  fort-ign  wine.  In  the  opmion  of  many  judges,  it  was 
superiour. 

This  success  has  induced  me  to  repeat  the  experiment  for  three 
years  ;  and  I  am  persuaded,  that  by  using  the  clean  honey,  instead  of 
the  comb,  as  above  described,  such  an  improvement  might  be  made, 
as  would  enabh'  the  citizens  of  the  U  States  to  supply  themselves  with 
a  truly  federal  and  wholsome  wine,  which  would  not  cost  one  quarter 
of  a  dollar  per  gallon,  were  all  the  ingredients  procured  at  the  market 
price  ;  and  would  have  this  peculiar  advantage  over  every  other  wina 
hitherto  attempted  in  this  country,  that  it  contains  no  foreign  mixture, 
but  is  made  from  Ingredients  produced  on  our  own  farms. 
By  order  of  the  Society, 

Wm.  Coxe,  jun.  Secretary, 

^6M.  A  J^ethod  of  making  Currant  JViiie^  -which  had  been  practised 
hymany  and  found  to  be  genuine. 

[Extracted  from  the  Transactions  of  Me   Philosophical  SocK-ty  of 
Philadelphia.] 

GATHER  your  currants  when  full  ripe  ;  break  them  well  in  a 
tub  or  vat  ;  press  and  measure  your  juice  ;  add  two  thirds  water, 
and  to  each  gallon  of  mixture,  (juice  add  water)  put  three  pounds  of 
muscovado  sugar,  the  cleaner  and  drier  the  better  ;  very  coarse  su- 
gar, first  clarified,  will  do  equally  as  well  :  stir  it  well  till  the  sugar  is 
•well  dissolved,  and  then  bung  it  up.  Your  juice  should  not  stand  over 
night  if  you  can  possiblv  help  it,  as  it  should  not  ferment  before  mix- 
tiire.  Observe  that  your  cask  be  sweet  and  clean.  Do  not  be  prevail- 
ed on  to  add  more  than  one  third  of  juice,  as  above  prescribed,  for 
that  wouM  render  it  infallibly  hard  and  unpleasent  :  nor  yet  a  greater 
proportion  of  sugar,  as  it  will  certainly  deprive  it  of  its  pure  vinous 
tast./ 

OF  MAKING  SUXDUY  SORTS  OF  BRITISH  WINES. 
87M.     Currant  Wine. 

PICK  the  currants  (when  they  are  f'dl  ripe)  clean  from  the  stalks, 
th-  n  put  them  into  an  earthen  vessel,  and  pour  on  them  fair  and  clean 
hot  water,  that  is,  i  qunrt  of  water  to  a  gallon  of  currants;  then 
brqjse  or  marsh  ihcm  Wgether,  and  let  them  stand  and  fennent  j 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  :^H 

then  cover  them  for  twelve  hours,  strain  them  through  iine  lin^ 
into  a  large  earthen  crock,  (as  they  say  in  Sussex)  aiid  then  put  the 
liquor  into  a  cask,  and  thereto  put  a  little  ale-yeast ;  and  when  work- 
ed and  settled,  bottle  it  off.  This  is  exceeding  pleasant,  and  very 
wholesome  for  cooling  the  blood.  In  a  weak's  time  it  will  he  fit  foi» 
bottling-. 

SSth.    Artificial  Claret 
TAKE  six  gallons  of  water,   two  gallons  of  the   hest  cider,  and 
thereto  put  eight  pounds  of  the  best  Malaga  raisins  bruised  ;  let  thena 
stand  close  covered  in  a  warm  place  for  two  weeks,  stirring  them  eve- 
ry two   days  well  together ;  then   press  out  the   liquor  into  a  vessel 
again,  and  add  to  it  a  quart  of  tlie  juice  of  barberries,  (which  perhaps 
is  best)  to  whicli  put  a  pint  of  the  juice  ot"  black  chernes  :  work  it  up 
witli  mustard  seed  covered  with  bread  past  for  three  or  four  days,  by 
'the  fire  side  ;  after  which,  let  it  stand  a  week  ;  then  bottle  it  off,  and 
it  will  become  near  as  good,  if  not  so  as  to  exceed,  common  claret. 
89 ^^.     Gooseberry    Wive. 
The  best  way  is  to  take  for  every  three  j>ounds  of  fruit,  one  pound  of 
sugai-,  and  a   quart  of  fair   water  ;  boil  the  water  very  well,  but  you 
must  put  in  the  aforesaid   quantity  of  sugar  when  it  is  boiled  ;  bruise 
the  fruit,  and  steep  it  twenty -four  hours  in  the  water ;  stir   it   some 
time,  then  strain  it  off,  and  put  the  sugar  to  it  and  let  it  stand  in  a  run- 
let close  stopped  for  a  Tt;.  tnight ;  then  draw  it  ofi^  and  set  it  up  in  a 
Cellar,  and  in  two  months,  it  will  be  fit  to  drink. 
90 M.     Haspberry   Wine. 
TAKE  the  raspberries  clear  from  the  stalks  ;  to  a  gallon  of  which 
put  a  bottle  of  white-wine,  and  let  them  infuse  in  an  earthen  vessel 
two  or  three  days  close  covered  ;  then  bruise  the  berries  in  the  wiue, 
«nd  strain  them   through  fine  linen  geatly ;  then  let   it  simmer  over 
a  moderate  fire;  skim  off  the  froth,  and  then   strain  it  again,  and, 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar  to  a  gallon,  let  it  settle  ;  then, 
in  a  half  a  pint  of  white  wine  boil   an  ounce  of  well  scented  cinnamon, 
and  a  little  mace,  and  put  the  wine,  strained  from  the  spice,  into  it> 
and  bottle  it  up. 

91 5?.     Dcmison  Wiiie. 
DRY  the  damsons  in  an  oven  after  you  have  taken  out  your  bread, 
then    to  every  quart  of  damsons  put  three  quarts  of  fair  water,  but 
first  boil  it  very  well ;  then   put  the  water  and  damsons  into  a  runlet 
with  sugar  ;  and  having  stooil  a  tinie  sufficient,  bottle  it  of. 
92J.     Wine  of  Grapes. 
>\HE"Nr  they  are  full  ripe,  in   a  dry  day,   pick  off  those  grapes  that 
are  ripest ;  and  squeeze  them  in  a  vat    or  press  made  for  that  pur- 
pose, in  which  must  be  a  fine  canvass  bag  to  contain  the  grapes,  and 
when  in  the  press  do  not  squeeze  them  so  hard  as  to  break  the  seeds 
if  you  can  help  it ;  because  the  bruised  seeds  will  give  the  wine  a  dis- 
agreeable taste  :  then   strain  it  well,  and   let  it  settle  on   the  Ires  in 
such  a  cask  or  vessel   as  you  may  draw  it  off  without  raising  the  bot- 
tom ;  then   season  a  cask  well  with    some  scalding   water,  and  dry  it 
or  sent  it  with    a  linen  rag  dipped  in    brimstone,'  hy  fixing  it  at   the 
bo:.'ue,  bv  the   bung  or  cork  ;  then  put   the  wine  into   it,  and  stop  it 
close  for  forty-eight  hours  ;  then  give  it  vent  at  the   bogue,  with  a 
hole  made  with  a  gir.iblet  ;  iit  which  put  a  peg  or  f  wcet,'that  mav  be 
easily  moved   with  the  fingers  ;  t'  en,  in  about  two  days  lime,  it  will 
be  fit  for  drinking,  and  prove  almost  as  good  as  FrenchVine. 
93£/.   Wine  of  Straiuberries  or  Basbernes. 
MASH  the  berries,   -mu]  put  them  into  a   linnen  hag,  as  aforesaid 
tor  the  grapes  and  squeeze  them  into  a  cask,  and  then  let  it  work' 


303  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

as  in  the  aforesaid  grape  receipt,  &c.  In  this  manner  may  cherry- 
wine  be  made  ;  but  then  you  muat  break  the  seeds,  contrary  to  what 
ivaa  said  betbre  corjcerning  the  graj)es. 

94^/j.  A  shor  ivay  for  Cherry  Wine. 
SQUEEZE  the  juice  of  the  clierries  into  a  cask,  and  thereto  put  a 
small  quantity  of  su^ar,  corresponding  to  the   quantity  of  juice  ;  and 
when  stood  a  month,  it  will  be  a  rdeusan^  liqur^r. 
95ih.  B'ack  C/ieiry  fFi?ie, 
IX  the  same  manner,  take  osie  gallon  or  more  of  the  juice  of  black 
cherries  and  keep  it  in  a  vessel  close  stopped  till  it   works ;  and  after 
it  is  tine,  add  an  ounce  of  sugar  to  each  quart,  and   a  pint  of  white 
wine. 

96th.  Mead 
TAKE  six  gallons  of  water,  and  thereto  put  six  quarts  of  honey, 
stirring  it  till  the  hooey  be  thoroughly  mixed  ;  then  set  it  over  the 
fire,  and  when  ready  to  boi'.  scum  it  very  well  :  then  put  to  it  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  of  mace,  and  as  much  ginger,  and  half  an  ounce 
of  nutmegs,  some  sweet  marjoram  thyme,  and  sweet  briar,  together 
a  handfwl  :  then  boil  iheni  in  the  liquid,  then  let  it  stand  by  till  cold, 
and  then  barrel  it  up  for  use. 

97th.  To  make  Beer,  ivitlkout  Malt. 
TAKE  thirteen  gallons  of  water,  boil  and  scum  it,  put  two  pounds 
of  brown   sugar  and    two  pounds  of  treacle.^  it;  boil  them  together 
half  an  hour,   strain    the  liquor  thro'  a    sieve,   snd  put  to  it  a  penny 
worth   or  two  of  bauni,  when  cold  ;  work  it  a  day  and  a  night,  then 
turn  it :  let  it  stand  in   the  barrel  a    day  and  a  night,    then  bottle  it, 
and  put  into  eacli  bottle  a  tea-spoon  fullof  bmwn  sugar. 
98 ?A.   To  make  [^00 d  common  Beer. 
FOn  ab:^rrel  of  thirty  two  gallons  take  half  a  pound  of  hops,  steep 
in  four  gallons  of  water  two  hours,   strain  off,   then  take   one  pound 
essence  of  spruce,  and  one  gallon  of  molasses  ;  mix   (hem  tOirether, 
and  put  it  in  the  barrel,  and  two  cents   worth  of  yeast,  and  fill  with 
water  :  if  it  is  summer  it  need  not  be  warmed,  but  warm  it  in  winter  ; 
when  full  shake  it  well,  and  stop  it  loosely  and  in  four  days  it  will  be 
fit  for  bottling,  and  use. 

9'hh  For  preserving  Apples  thro'  tJie  ■u.-inter.  ^ 
THE  secret  for  preserving  apples  through  the  winter,  in  a  sound 
state,  is  of  no  small  importance.  Some  say  that  shutting  them  up  in 
a  tight  cask  is  an  effectual  method,  and  it' seems  probable;  for  ihey 
soon  rot  in  open  air.  Rnt  an  easier  method,  and  what  has  recom- 
mended itself  to  me  by  the  experience  of  several  years,  is  as  folloM's: — 
I  gather  them  about  noon,  at  the  full  of  the  moon,  in  the  latter  part 
of  September  or  beginning  of  October.  Then  spread  thenri  in  a  cham- 
ber or  garret,  where  they  lie  till  about  the  last  of  November. — 
Then  remove  them  into  casks  ©r  boxes,  in  the  cellar,  out  of  the  way 
of  tlie  frost ;  but  I  ])refer  a  cool  part  of  the  cellar.  With  this  manage- 
ment I  find  I  can  keep  them  till  the  last  of  May,  so  well  that  not  one 
in  fifty  will  rot. 

lOOth.  To  pickle  Cucumbers^  green. 
WASH  them,  and  dry  them  in  a  cloth  ;  then  take  wnter,  vinegar, 
salt,  fennel  tops,  some' dill-tops,  awd  a  little  mace ;  make  it  sharp 
enovigli  for  taste  ;  then  boil  it  awhile,  then  take  it  off  an<l  let  it  stand 
till  cold  ;  then  put  it  in  the  encumbers  and  stop  the  vessel  close,  and 
within  a  week  they  will  be  fit  for  use. 

103  5 A  To  pickle  French   Beans. 
T.\KE  them  while  young,  and  cutoff  the  stalks,   then  take  good 
Viuegar  and  boil  it  with  pepper  and  salt ;  season  it  to  your  palate,  and 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  303 

•let  it  stand  till  cold  ;  then  take  the  beans  and  put  them  into  a  stone 
jar,  placing  dill  between  the  layers,  and  then  put  in  ihe  pickle,  and 
cover  them  close  for  three  weeks  ;  then  take  the  pickle  and  boil  it 
again,  and  put  it  into  tlie  beans  boiling  hot ;  cover  them  close,  and 
Avheii  culd  they  will  be  fit  to  eat. 

Or,  French  beans  may  be  pickled  thus :  Take  your  beans  and 
string  them,  boil  them  tender,  then  take  them  oft*  and  let  them  stand 
till  cold  ;  then  put  them  into  pickle  of  vinegar,  pep^jcr,  salt,  clotes, 
mace,  and  a  little  ginger. 

102(1.  To  pickle  WahnKs,  to  eat  like  mangoes. 
TAKE  green  walnuts,  before  the  shell  has  grown  to  any  hardness  in 
them;  pick  them  from  the  stalk  and  put  them  in  cold  water,  and  set 
them  on  a  gentle  fire,  till  the  outward  skins  begin  to  peel  off;  then, 
•with  a  coarse  cloth,  wipe  it  off";  then  put  them  into  a  jar,  and  put  water 
and  salt  thei-ein,  shifting  it  once  a  day  for  ten  days,  till  the  bitterness 
and  discolouring  of  the  water  be  gone  ;  ihen  lake  a  good  quantity  of 
mustarci  seed,  which  beat  up  with  vinegar,  till  it  becomes  coarse  nuis- 
tard ;  then  take  some  clove  of  garlic,  some  ginger,  and  a  little  cloves 
and  mace ;  make  a  hole  in  each  nut,  and  put  in  a  little  of  this  ;  thea 
take  white- wine  vinegar,  and  boil  them  together,  w  Inch  iJUt  to  the  nuts 
boihng  hot,  with  some  pepper,  gl  ger,  cloves  and  mace,  as  also,  some 
of  the  mustard  seed  and  garlick,  which  keep  close  stopped  for  use. 
103ri  To  pickle  Mushrooms. 
FIRST  blanch  them  o^er  the  crowns,  and  barb  them  beneath  ;  then 
put  them  into  a  kettle  of  boihng  water,  then  take  them  fortli  and  let 
them  drain  ;  when  they  are  cold,  put  them  into  your  jar  or  glass,  and 
put  to  them  cloves,  mace,  ginger,  nutmeg  a»)d  whole-pepper  ;  then 
take  white-wine,  a  little  vinegar,  and  salt  ;  then  pour  tlie  liquor  into 
the  mushrooms,  and  stop  them  close  for  use. 

104M.  To  Pickle  Lemon  and  Orange  Peel, 
BOIL  them  in  vinegar  and  sugar,  and  put  them  into  the  same  pick- 
le :  observe  to  cut  them  into  small  long  thongs,  the  length  of  half  the 
peel  of  your  lemon  ;  it  ought  to  be  boiled  in  water,  before  it  is  boiled  ill 
vinegar  and  sugar. 

105^.  To  Preserve  Fruit  green. 
TAKE  pippins,  apricots,  pears,  plumbs,  or  peaches,  when  they  arc 
green  ;  scald  them  in  hot  water,  and  peel  then;  ;  then  put  them  into 
another  water,  not  so  hot  as  the  first ;  then  boii  the  m  very  tender,  and 
take  the  weight  of  them  in  sugar,  and  put  to  them  as  much  water  as 
will  make  a  syrup  ta  cover  them  ;  then  boil  the  syrup  till  it  be  some^ 
what  thick,  and  when  cold  put  them  together. 

\06ih.  To  Preserve  "Raspberries. 
TAKE  good  raspberries  that  are  not  too  ripe,  but  verv  whole  ;  take 
awa}  the  stalks,  and  put  them  into  a  flat  bottomed  earthen  pan  ;  boil 
sugar,  and  pour  it  <  ver  your  raspberries,  then  let  ihtm  stand  to  be 
cool;  and  when  they  are  cold,  pour  them  softly  mto  vour  preserving 
kettle  and  let  them  bod  till  your  syrup  be  boiled  pretty  thick;  scum 
tliem  very  well  in  the  boiling  ;  this  done,  put  them  in  pots,  and  when 
oold,  cover  them  up  close  for  use. 

\07th.  To  Preserve  Barberries. 
TAKE  one  pound  of  barberries  picked  fron.  the  stalks,  put  them 
in  a  pottle-pot,  and  set  it  in  a  brass  pot  full  of  hot  water,  anr'  when 
they  are  stewed,  strain  them,  and  put  to  the  burberries  one  and  an 
half  pounds  of  sugar,  and  to  them  put  a  pint  of  rosewater,  and  boil 
them  a  little  ;  then  take  halfa  pMinci  of  the  fairest  clusteis  of  barber- 
ries you  can  get,  and  dip  them  in  the  syrup  ivhiist  it  is  a  boihng  j  the» 


304  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

take  tlie  barberries  out,  and  boil  the  syrup  till  it  is  thkJc,  And  wbeh- 
cold,  put  them  in  glasses  With  the  syrup. 

108M.   To  Preserve  Currants. 

LAY  a  layer  of  currants,  and  then  a  layer  of  sugar,  and  then  boil 

them  together  as  before    prescribed  for  raspberries  ;  scum    them  ia 

jboiling  till  the  syrup  is  pretty  thick  ;  then  take   them  off,  and  when 

they  are  pretty  cold,  put  them  in  gaily i>ols  or  glasses  closely  stopped. 

lf)9/A.    To  Preserve  f^V alnuts  green. 

BOIL  the  walnuts  till  the  water  tastes  bitter,  then  take  them  off, 
^nd  put  them  in  cold  water ;  peel  off  the  bark,  and  weigh  as  much 
€ugar  as  they  weigh,  and  a  little  more  water  will  then  wet  the  sugar  : 
set  them  on  the  fire,  and  when  they  boil  up,  take  them  off;  let  them 
ctand  two  days,  and  then  boil  again. 

110^/i.    To  Preserve  Cherries. 

FIRST  take  some  of  the  worst  cherries,  and  boil  them  in  fair  water^ 
>and  when  the  liquor  is  well  coloured,  strain  it;  then  take  some  of  the 
best  cherries,  wjth  their  weight  in  beaten  sugar;  then  lay  one  layer 
of  sugar,  and  another  of  clierries,  till  all  is  laid  in  the  preserving  ket- 
tle ;  then  pour  a  little  liquor  of  the  worst  of  cherries  into  it,  and  boil 
the  cherries  till  they  are  well  coloured  :  then  take  them  up  and  boil 
the  syrup  till  they  will  button  on  the  side  of  a  plate ;  and  wheu  they 
are  cold,  put  thera  up  in  a  glass  close  covered  for  use. 
With.  To  Candy  Cherries. 

TAKE  cherries  before  they  be  full  ripe,  anj  take  out  the  stones  : 
then  take  clarified  sugar  boiled  to  a  height,  and  pour  it  on  them. 
1  l2//j.  To  Candy  Pears,  PlumbSy  apricots,  &c. 

TAKE  thera,  and  give  every  one  a  cut  half  through  ;  then  cast 
sugar  on  them,  and  bake  them  in  an  oven,  as  hot  as  for  manchet,  close 
stopped  ;  let  them  stand  half  an  hour,  then  lay  them  one  by  one  upon 
glass  plates  to  dry,  and  they  will  appear  veiy  fine  and  clear  :  in  this 
manner  you  may  candy  any  other  fruit. 

USth,  Of  Jellies. 

LET  them  be  of  apples,  currents,  raspberries,  &c.    Take  out  the 
clear  liquor  when  squeezed,  and  boil  it  with  sugar  till  it  is  as  thick  as 
a  jelly.     Then  put  into  glasses,  and  cover  it  close. 
li4M.     Jt  most  excellent  Method  of  making  Butter,  as  noxo  practised 

in  England,  -which  effectually  prevents  its  changing  and  becoming 

rank. 

THE  day  before  churning,  scald  the  cream  in  a  clean  iron  kettle, 
OTer  a  clear  fire  taking  care  that  it  does  not  boil  over.  As  soon  as  it 
begins  to  boil,  or  is  sufficiently  seal  led,  strain  it,  when  the  particles  of 
milk  which  tend  to  our  and  change  the  butter  are  separated  and  left 
behind.  Put  the  \essel  in  which  it  was  strained  in  a  tub  of  water,  in 
a  cellar,  till  next  morning,  when  it  will  be  ready  for  churning,  and 
become  butter  in  less  than  a  quarter  of  the  time  required  by  the  com- 
mon method.  It  will  also  be  hard,  with  a  peculiar  additional  sweet- 
ness,  and  will  not  change.  The  labor  in  this  way  is  less  than  the 
other,  as  the  Wutt^^r  comes  so  much  sooner,  and  saves  so  much  labor 
in  working  out  the  butttrmilk.  By  this  method,  good  butter  may  be 
made  in  the  hottest  weather 

Wbth    A  method  of  Preserving  Eggs. 

EGGS  keep  very  well  when  jbu  can  exclude  air;  which  is  best 
done  by  placing  a  grate  in  anv  running  water,  and  putting  eggs,  as 
the  hens  lay  them,  on  the  upper  side  of  the  grate,  and  tliere  let  them 
lie,  covered'  with  water,  till  you  are  going  to  use  them,  when  you  will 
find  them  as  good  as  ifthev  had  beer*  lain  that  day.  This  way  answers 
tnuch  better  than  greasing  ;  as  sometimes  one  place  is  mi^etl  whioa 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS  Sdo 

jpoils  the  whole  egg  :  even  those  that  are  fresh  never  eat  so  well.  In 
places  where  prople  are  afraid  their  eggs  wili  be  stolen,  they  should 
make  a  chest  witli  a  nusnber  of  slits  in  il,  tliat  the  water  may  get  la 
freely  ;  i.he  top  oi  which  being  above  the  water,  may  be  locked  dowix. 
Mi!l-damsare  the  most  proper  for  these  chests  or  grates. 

N  B.  The  wat«r   luust  coiitinually   cover  the  eggs,  or  they  wilt 

spoil. 

116^^  To  Cure  Hams,  as  is  practise d  in  Virginia. 
TAKH  six  pounds  of  tine  salt,  three  pounds  of  brown  sugar,  oc 
three  pints  of  molasses,  and  one  pound  of  salt-petre  jjowdered  ;  mix 
id!  these  together,  to  serve  for  twenty-four  hams  :  rub  each  ham  well 
all  over  with  this  mixture,  and  pack  "them  down  in  a  cask  or  tub,  and 
iet  them  so  remain  for  five  or  six  days;  then  turn  l!»em,  and  sprinkle 
some  salt  lightly  over  them,  and  so  iet  them  remain  fi\e  or  six  days 
more,  then  add  brine  or  pickle  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg,  and 
let  them  remain  covered  with  it  for  a  month,  when  tliey  will  be  fit  to 
«moak. 

With.  A7ioiher  mode,  equally  as  good  and  simple. 
TO  four  gallons  of  soft  river  water,  add  one  pound  of  brown  sugar, 
four  ounces  of  salt  petre,  and  eiglit  pounds  of  coarse  salt.    Boil  all 
these  together,  and  carefully  take  offthe  scum  as  it  rises  ;  when  clear;, 
let  it  remain  till  cold,  then  pour  it  over  the  meat  till  covered,  and  the 
quantity  of  pickle  must  be  increased  according  to  the  quantity  of  meat ; 
*he  meat  must  not  be  pressed,  but  put  hghtly  into  a  cask,  and  remain 
in  for  six  or  seven  weeks,  when  it  will  be  fit  to  smoke. 
II 8M.  For  a  tmter  to  Destroy  Bugs^  Flies,  Ants  and  other  Insects^ 
on  tender  plants. 
[Invented  by  C.  Tatin,  Seedsman  and  Florist  at  Paris. "I 
THE  receipt  for  this  valuablfcvConj])osition,  and  which  obtained  foi? 
the  ingenious  author  a  reward  froYri  the  Bureau  de  Consultarn,  who 
desired  it  might  be  made  as  pubhc  as  possible,  is  thus   given  in  the 
Qelebrated  Annalesde  Chimic  — 

Take  of  black  soap  four  ounces,  flour  of  sulphur  four  ounces,  mush« 
i'ooms  of  any  kind  four  ounces,  water  wherein  dung  has  been  soaked,^ 
awo  gallons;  and  thus  in  proportion.  Divide  the  v/ater  into  equal 
parts ;  pom'  one  part  into  a  barrel,  vat  or  any  vessel  of  convenient 
size  ;  which  should  be  used  only  for  this  purpose  ;  let  the  hiack  soap 
he  stirred  in  it  till  it  is  dissolved,  and  then  add  to  it  the  mushrooms 
after  they  have  been  slightly  bruised.  Let  the  remaining  half  of  tTie 
ivater  be  made  to  boil  in  a  kettle  :  put  the  whole  quantity  of  sulphur 
into  a  coarse  linen  cloth,  tie  it  up  with  a  thread  in  fiu'm  of  a  parcel, 
and  fasten  it  to  a  stone  or  other  weight,  to  make  it  sink  to  the  bottom. 
During  twenty  minutes,  beiiig  the  time  that  the  boiling  should  con*- 
tiiiue,  stir  it  well  with  a  stick,  and  let  the  pa<-:'*:et  of  sul])hur  be  squeez- 
ed so  as  to  make  it  yield  to  the  water  all  its  power  and  colour.  The 
effect  of  the  water  is  not  rendered  more  powerfid  by  increasing  the 
quantity  of  ingredients.  The  water,  when  taken  off  the  fire,  is  to  b© 
poured  into  the  vessel,  with  the  remaining  water,  where  it  is  to  be 
stirred  a  short  time  with  a  stick  ;  this  stirring  nmst  he  rc])eated  every 
day,  till  the  mixture  becomes  feetid,  (nr  putrid)  in  the  highest  degree, 
Bvperience  shews,  that  the  older  and  more  foetid  the  composition  isj> 
the  more  quick  is  its  action.  It  is  necessary  to  take  care  to  stop  the 
vessel  well  every  time  the  mixture  is  stirred.  When  we  wish  to 
make  use  of  this  water,  we  need  only  s])rinkle  it  on  the  plants,  ot 
plunge  their  branches  into  it  :  but  the  best  manucjl*  Of  USlDg  it,  is  iff' 
^'ect  it  Qa  them  with  a  syringe,  or  squirt  gun. 

J?  a 


'  ^«  USEFUL  RE<"E!PTS; 

nWi.  To  Kdi  LUe  on  Catile. 

TAKE  a  broad  wooU.  i,  lisi,  as  bnm«]  as  your  hand,  that  "wiil  go 
rrjund  about  his  i.cck;  then  wet  the  hsi  wch'in  train  oil,  and  sew  it 
itbout  the  beast's  neck,  and  the  hcc  w  li  come  lo  il,and  it  will  kdUhem 
if  there  were  evt-r  so  raany  ;  daub  somt  about  ti»e  breast  iu  severai 
l^laces  and  they  will  come  to  it,  and  it  will  kill  the*.:.  No  fii^s  ia 
sumiuer  will  come  near  any  wound  or  sore,  whete  this  is  api)Ued,for 
It  will  kill  them.  ' 

\2(Mh.  Tq  Destroy  Btigs,  and  rid  Houses  of  them. 

TO  remove  these  noibome  and  troublesome  vernnn,  take  oil  of 
turpentine,  wash  over  the  walls  and  bedsteads  with  it,  or  pnrticulafly 
M  here  there  are  any  crevices,  cracks  or  crannies,  and  they  will  die 
away,  and  the  room,  after  some  time  using  it,wlll  no  more  be  pestered 
With  them. 

The  juice  of  wormwood  and  rue  is  very  good  to  wash  the  bed- 
steads, crevices,  or  any  place  where  you  suppose  they  are,  and  if  you 
would  lie  s^feamon^  thousan<ls  in  a  room,  rince  your  sheets  in  waier, 
ivhereJM  sassafras  has  been  wt  11  j^teeped,  and  ihey  will  not  enter  upon 
Ihe.!  ;  or  you  may  !:;y  thai  wood  n\  slices  among  your  linen,  and  it 
■'.vill  have  the  same  effect.     Keep  your  rooms  airy  and  clean  always. 


AGRIf  ULTURAL. 

To  Farmers. 
121s^   ^8n  eapjj  method  to  preserve  Wheat  and  Rye  from  the  Weavih 

AS  you  slack  wheat,  on  every  twe  or  three  layers  of  shea\es,  spread 
.^"Dme  elder  leaves  and  branches.  This  was  communicated  to  me  by  a 
farmer,  who  tried  the  experiment  witli  success  last  year.  'I'he  sa  ue 
informant  adds,  that  he  has  rend  in  liistory,  that  the  same  remedy  has 
been  apjjlied  in  Europe,  when  tiiey  have  occasion  to  lay  up  a  seven 
year's  store,  kc.  As  ih(  remedy  is  easy,  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  farmers 
-will  avail  themselves  of  the  adviimtape  Exporters  ol  flour  from  the 
fjtates  have  noth  i.j;-  so  niuch  to  f:  ai\  Inspeeiors  of  flour  ou^ht  to  be 
j^uarded  agai»ist  this  evil ;  no  ^\^kU  t?our  ou^rht  to  be  suffered  to  leave 
the  states.    The  credrr  of  our  fiuur  abmad  depends  on  the  insi)ector&. 

N.  B.  Lime,  applied  asal>o»e,  will  produce  the  same  effect. 
12^3  J.     To  preserve  Jndion  Corn  from  Birds,  &c. 

TO  pr.  vent  your  Inijiau  corn  when  plantrd,  from  being  taken  up 
hy  biids  oi'  destrosed  by  worms  or  insects,  take  about  one  pint  of  tar 
to  a  bushel  of  seed  corn,  and  in  the  like  i>rouortion  for  a  greater  quan- 
tity, and  si>r  it  well  together  till  e\ery  grain  receives  a  part  of  the  tar. 
This  will  effectually  ansv^er  the  ]>nrpose  required. 

1  -2.3 J.    For  LiQculatitig  Fi  mi  Trees^ 

AUGUST  and  September  are  the  pr^  tper  months  to  inoeulate  er 
bud  most  kinds  of  fruit  trees;  an  operation  that  every  landholder 
shotdd  have  some  knowledge  of.  When  a  tree  lias  finished  its  growth 
for  the  year,  a  bud  is  formed  at  the  very  tip  or  end  of  the  twig  ;  which 
di'Motes  that  it  ^s  in  a  proper  state  to  bud  or  Inoculate.  Some  trees 
are  imeed  an  exception,  as  they  continue  growing  almost  the  whole 
season,  and  may  be  hudded  through  all  July  and  August. 

With  a  sharp  knife,  slit  the  bark  of  any  twig  not  moe  than  half  an 
inch  thick,  and  not  less  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch.  Carefully  cut 
^irough  the  hark,  hut  Mot  to  wound  the  wood  under  it  Let  the  slit 
Ibe  rather  more  than  an  inch  Ion  ;.  Tn  like  manner  cut  half  an  inch  long 
^ros9  1^9  gUt^  at  Uie  teottQoa,  so  that  th^  Wo  ct^te  tJvPOOgH  tl^e- 1?^ 


USEFUL  RECETPTS.  SO? 

Will  resemble  a  x  bottom  upwards.  Then  take  a  bud  of  the  fruit 
you  wish  to  ppoi>agate,  with  its  bark  near  an  incl*  long,  taking  care  10 
loosen  It  from  the  woody  part  of  the  stem,  so  as  to  put  it  off  trom 
your  timmb  and  finger,  separating  the  bark  and  the  eye  under  the 
bud  from  the  wood.  If  the  eye  is  left  on  the  wood,  you  must  throw- 
hy  the  bud  and  take  another.  Tlien  insert  the  bud  under  the  j^,  he- 
fore  described,  and  bind  it  down  with  woollen  strings,  or  well  soaked 
stnpsof  bark  of  bass  wood,  leaving  the  eye  of  the  bud  to  the  air.  In 
two  or  turee  weeks,  the  bud  will  unite  with  the  stalks,  when  the 
string  must  be  loosened.  The  stocks,  may  be  cut  away  the  next 
spring.  This  method  is  on  many  accounts  better  than  grafting.  It 
gives  the  farmer  another  chance,  provided  his  grafts  fail  in  the  spring. 
Stone  fruits  succeed  ordy  or  best  with  inoculation.  Small  twigs,  too 
small  for  common  grafting,  answer  well — and  above  all  in  this  way, 
very  little  injury  is  done  to  the  stock.  In  a  fruit  country,  this  method 
ou^'ht  to  be  well  understood.  A  correspontient  says,  that  cow-dung, 
with  the  addition  of  a  veiy  little  salt,  is  a  good  plaister  for  the  wounds 
oftVuit  tiees.  When  large  limbs  are  cut  of,  the  stumps  should  be 
covered  to  keep  out  the  air.  Too  much  sa!t  will  spoil  the  tree. 
124/ A.    To  take  a  Film  off  a  Morsels  Eye. 

BLAOK  Pepper,  finely  ground,  and  sifted  thro'  a  piece  of  gauze; 
add  thereto  fine  ground  salt,  of  each  as  much  hs  will  lay  on  the  point 
cf,a  case  knife,  mixing  them  well  together  ;  then  take  as  much  dougb 
as  will  thinly  cover  an  ounce  ball,  make  it  flat,  place  the  pepper  and 
salt  thereon,  and  roll  them  up,  making  the  same  about  the  size  of  an 
ounce  ball ;  then  put  it  as  low  down  as  possible  in  the  off  ear  fastening, 
the  ear  so  as  to  prevent  its  falling  out  The  above  takes  off  the  worst 
of  films,  and  no  way  injures  the  horse.  This  receipt  has  been  used 
many  years  iu  this  place  with  the  greatest  success. 

125^/1.    A  Cure  for  Sheep-Biting. 

AN  intelligent  farmerrin  New-Jersey  seized  a  dog  which  often  wot- 
wed  and  bit  his  sheep.  He  tied  the  leg  of  the  dog  by  a  tether  to  the 
leg  of  a  strong  active  ram,  and  placed  them  on  the  top  of  a  hill.  The 
x-am  immediately  began  to  kick  and  butt  the  dog,  who  after  a  little 
snapping,  attempted  to  fly.  The  tether  held  him,  so  that  the  ram 
easily  overtook,  kicked  and  butted  him.  After  a  short  time  the  ram, 
excited  to  exertion,  raced  down  the  hill,  and  forced  the  do;4  after  him. 
When  the  dog  was  so  punished  f>s  not  to  forget  it,  he  was  let  loose,  and 
vould  neyer  touch  a  sheep  afterwards. 

126^^.    An  easy  and  sure  Method  to  find  due  JVorth  and  South. 

TAKE  a  smooth  piece  of  boanl,  draw  on  it  four,  five  or  six  circles^, 
Osten  it  on  the  top  of  a  post,  stick  a  pin  in  the  centre  which  the  cir- 
cles are  drawn  on  within  each  other  ;  observe  in  the  forenoon  on^  which 
circle  the  shadow  of  the  head  of  the  pin  strikes,  and  make  a  mark; 
then  in  the  afternoon  observe  when  it  strikes  on  the  other  side  of  the 
same  circle ;  then  fiiid  the  centre  on  the  circle,  then  strike  a  line  iroffx 
'^e  to  lh«  Gt^er^  viucb  canaot  fail  of  being  north  and  south* 


?I^B 


^- 


m^ 


